A/C filter replacement

[Van]

hi, I am new to the Accord Forums.
I have 00 Accord Coupe and i would like to know how to replace a/c filter.

I try to take out the glove box but it seems to be hard/tight to pull out.

Please help. Thanks.:bawling:

[princess]

you first need to remove the lower covers, center (clips) & side (screws) ....then the glove box... several screws there. Careful not to scratch the plastic! Have fun!!:D

[according2me]

Try this link. 98-02 Cabin AC filter (http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/cabinair.shtml)

[princess]

nifty link!!

[according2me]

It's also a great site. I stumbled across this site while gathering maintenance info for my 6th Gen for future referrence.

The I-net is a great tool for the automotive DIYer. There are hundreds of great DIY/informational sites (including this site) for those so inclined. It's really nice to know what normally fails on certain models and at what mileage to expect certain issues to arise.

I also follow 1st Gen Altima forums because my son's 95 Alti has 191K miles and lately I've had to locate parts and do some maintenance on his vehicle.

For the last year, or so, this has almost become my vocation.

Van... be sure to disconnect the negative battery post before starting this procedure. The airbag cabling is behind there and some have accidentally had their's inflate while attempting to replace these filters!!!!

[princess]

I bookmarked it for use in the future. It looked like it could be handy for lots of people I know!:)

[adam1991]

DANGER DANGER!!!

The batauto link has a big mistake in it. Batauto says:

Remove the fuse panel cover where you will find two screws that secure the lower trim panel , the rest of the panel simply clips into the support frame and is released by pulling on the panel .

If you follow their instructions, be prepared to buy a new lower trim panel. It's only about $30.

The rest of the panel most certainly does NOT "simply clip into the support frame". There's a third, very important screw that they missed. It's under a small snap-out panel in the center stack.

If you follow their instructions and start pulling, you'll see where it's not pulling out. That's where the screw is. If you keep pulling, you'll break the trim panel.

[princess]

Were you able to tell the people at the batauto site too??

[adam1991]

I never told the folks at Batauto.

[princess]

I just did it for you. Hope it's OK with you!:)

[Dirtrocker]

adam,
You mean to tell me that you are not capable of understanding that if it doesn't seem to want to come loose, that you don't keep pulling until you break something? :rolleyes:
Pretty amazing that you post this DANGER DANGER, like it is a major thing where someone is going to get hurt, then don't mention it to the site that has the article. :scratch:

I happen to know that the Honda information doesn't even state how many screws there are.

This is the extent of the Honda info.
Remove the glove box.
Remove the bolt, the screws and the glove box frame.
Remove the filter lid from the evaporator, then pull out the lower A/C filter assembly and the upper A/C filter assembly in that order.
Remove the A/C filter from the filter housing.
Replace the A/C filter according to the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual.
Install in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leaking out of the evaporator.

[princess]

Dirtrocker,

I didn't take the warning as someone might get hurt....I'm sure it's helpful for DIYers to know what might hurt their car!

The info from Honda is usually for the Techs & they normally don't need exstensive step by step, "how many screws type stuff". :) It does have some of that stuff though. 4 screws here, 3 clips there, another 4 clips there.... The assumption is that it's not the first cabin/pollen filter you've replaced, right?

Welcome to the board. Did you go to this section because you were looking for something in particular?:confused: There's info to gather & more to share!

:D

[Dirtrocker]

Did you go to this section because you were looking for something in particular?
No, I came here because I work on vehicles. :eek:

Not all vehicles are the same and some go on the assumption that they are and that because someone gives infofor one vehicle, it is the same for all that brand. Not so.
As with any free information, the person doing the work is responsible to double check things and make sure that any information, other than the manufacturer or a pro service manual system, is correct for their specific vehicle. :headbash:

My point was that no matter what, their info was pretty good for the DIYer [I see they made an ammendum to the article] and that common sense comes into play when pulling on plastic pieces. If it don't come loose fairly easily, then pulling too hard will break something. :wave:

[adam1991]

Yes, DANGER DANGER. I didn't want people to follow that article like I did. Hey, thirty bucks is thirty bucks.

I don't mind, really; it still beats hell out of paying the dealership $36 for the filters and $75 for the labor. I paid $11 for aftermarket filters, and $30 for a new trim panel and some education.

Next time, I may just remove the filters completely. I mean, come on. If they're going to make it that ridiculous, we may as well just live like we used to--without filters.

[princess]

Dirtrocker,

Here the attempt is being made to be specific. Not just info on "hondas" or even just "accords"... the attempt is for a certain year & model. I'm sure you noticed the selection of bulletins & instructions. As more info is asked for more appears.

I asked if you were after certain info because often someone has a question about their car that hasn't been addressed yet.

What do you work on? Do you work at a dealer or an independent shop?


:)

[Inspector1]

Originally posted by Dirtrocker
adam,

I happen to know that the Honda information doesn't even state how many screws there are.



Hmm Honda factory manual shows how many screws and clips...
Maybe non factory manual doesn't..
Check photo....
I1

[princess]

The instructions I found, Honda of course, also had pictures & numbers. I wasn't able to post it due to the fact there were several pages.... each step had it's own page or 3.

Inspector, you have have to admit that lots of the Honda manuals are assuming you already know most of the stuff....not really set up for DYIers. I forget that sometimes, the prince being a tech....& sometimes I make the same mistake! Most of the time all you have to do is know how to read & be patient though.

That's one reason finding other places for the "how-to" part of repairs or replacements is so exciting to me. I always hope they're user friendly so "shade tree" mechanics can get the info they need. If I were tackling a job I hadn't done before I'd first gather up all the info I could. :D

[BenjiBoy650]

After being inspired by this thread I went and did it. Stupid, because it took me a long time but I couldn't find any filters to replace them with, I just assumed I'd go buy some after I figured out how to do it. Yeah I know...I'm stupid....don't rub it in :)

http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/album38/IMG_53251.jpg
http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/album38/IMG_53261.jpg

[Inspector1]

Hey Benji, Why did you remove radio and heater control panel??
You should ony have to remove left lower access panel under radio to access the one screw that holds center access panel...
Oh well I guess you know how to remove other items now....
Do yo have a Car Quest or Napa close they should have filters or anyone that stock Hastings filters.....

CQ#89782
NAPA#4782
WIX #24782
Hastings AF1011

I1:)

[Inspector1]

Check out this link also...
http://www.hastingsfilter.com/products/af1011.pdf

I1:)

[princess]

LOL!! Silly me, I would've shopped BEFORE taking anything apart.....:joker:

[BenjiBoy650]

Hey I1 thanks for the info. I took the radio/heater trim panel off for several reasons. At first I had thought that if I removed all that I would be able to get to the third and final screw holding the lower kick panel (below the glove box) in place. Well I was wrong about that, but really I would have had to get that off first anyway. There is no way for me (and my big fingers) to pry off that snap on panel below the radio without inflicting much bodily harm to oneself :) I was so mad at that thing that I just took it and threw it in the trunk, left it in there. I had my whole family in the car on the way to dinner and nobody noticed, so that thing must not be doing much. Or is it?

Holy smokes the Napa filter is even more than a Honda OEM one from handa-accessories.com

[Inspector1]

Yes you will find that Napa tends to be high on certain items...
I bought mine at CQ for around 8 bucks a piece.... But I used to work for them and knowing store Mgr I get a break.
But if you need parts and dealer is closed then a couple bucks isn't a big deal.

I1:)

[BenjiBoy650]

Someone mentioned $36 for parts for a dealer to replace it, so those things must be real expensive from a dealer. I was comparing the NAPA price to wholesalers, so I'll probably buy it from a local store anyway. Are they just as good as the OEM one though? I feel like just buying a K&N and sticking it in there lol.

[Inspector1]

I do not believe K&N make performance cabin air filters......
The Wix filters appear to be same quality as OEM ...

Here's a link if you really want to save some money doing the job...... and you even get microbiotic filters or Hepa filters..Haha
http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=874&forumid=142


I1:joker:

[BenjiBoy650]

I typed in 24782 (Wix #) in Napa's website and found that the Napa brand filter came up. Also went to Kragen's site and found that Fram and Purolater also makes these filters but are slightly more expensive. Shall I just buy the Napa brand?

[Inspector1]

Napa,Wix and CQ are all Wix filters......Dana Industries parent Co.

I1:)

[BenjiBoy650]

Originally posted by Inspector1
Napa,Wix and CQ are all Wix filters......Dana Industries parent Co.

I1:)

You know too much lol...guess I'll be buying Napa filters.

[Inspector1]

I did a tour of their plant in Gastonia, NC about 8 years ago, it took 2 full days. They are the second largest user of cold rolled steel in America.... So needless to say they make a few filters........

I1:)

[BenjiBoy650]

Hey do them filters come in packages of one or two? I called the store and they only had one. The computer said I only need one per car. The only way I could reason that is if they package two filters into one package, but that's not likely because the cost is $10.50.

[brickman]

Hey, what was up with dirtrocker.:confused: He makes two nasty posts and then never posts again :scratch: Oh well...on with my contribution....

I just got done changing mine and while it was somewhat time consuming and the actual removal of the glove box was tricky, it is definitely a D.I.Y. project. The filters cost me $18.00 at Autozone and about 40 minutes of my time. The only problem I had was I broke a clip post on the lower center dash cover....the epoxy is drying right now. My filters were quite dirty and black and the airflow after the change has definitely increased. My Honda dealer wanted $65 to change them.

[Pairallel]

Bump; now that I am ready to do this, the links are all broken...anyone have a new source for a kindergarden level step-by-step on the cabin filter replacement?:sorry:

[brickman]

Here is an update on the link...

http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/cabinair.shtml

[Pairallel]

Great! Thank you very much....I'll report back with how much damage I caused in the process of changing my filters.:sorry:

[Inspector1]

Did you get yours changed out Pairallel? How did it go?

I1:)

[Pairallel]

Got it done with minimal damage. The 6 gen filter replacement involves a lot of screw removal, and I had a little trouble remembering which screw came from which hole.

Also the instructions I printed out neglected to mention 1 screw that has to come out to remove the glove box. Since I thought I had them all, I was yanking and prying for 15 minutes before I figured that out. Ended up breaking one of the plastic holes used for attaching the glove box. Didin't seem to affect anything when I put it all back together, though.

The filters themselves were digusting, and there was a lot of debris left in the filter compartment after I removed them. I rigged up a 24 inch tube on the end of my vacuum hose to get the various leaves and dust bunnies jammed in there.

Whole project took about 90 minutes; next time it will take about 20...tremendous learning curve gain after you've done it once!:rolleyes:

[Inspector1]

Cool!! glad to here completed with minimal damage!:thmsup:
The 1st time always takes longer but it's not as bad as it seems!!

I1:)

[jakes29]

Originally posted by brickman
Here is an update on the link...

http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/cabinair.shtml

Awesome link:D :D :D

This is exactly what I was looking for. I will be attempting this for the first time this weekend. I will post some pictures of the old filters, if I get them out;) ;)

Regards

[Pairallel]

Originally posted by jakes29
I will be attempting this for the first time this weekend. I will post some pictures of the old filters, if I get them out;)

Just don't forget that extra screw that is not mentioned in the link. If your glove box doesn't come out easily, keep looking for 1 more screw to remove. Do not force it!

:eek:

[jakes29]

Originally posted by Pairallel
Just don't forget that extra screw that is not mentioned in the link. If your glove box doesn't come out easily, keep looking for 1 more screw to remove. Do not force it!

:eek:


Thanks. I'll remember that! :D :D :D

[jakes29]

Ok... here's my old filters. As you can see they are extremely dirty. There are bugs, leaves, etc in it. I don't believe they have ever been changed. I am amazed at the difference in the air coming through my vents now.

Luckily my airbags didn't go off.... I forgot to disconnect the battery... :thumbsdow oops :dunno:

oh well, It was an easy job.

[BenjiBoy650]

I never disconnected the battery either.

[Snapper]

Hi All!
I'm new here and this is my first post. Hope I'm not too late to get some help on this topic. I got as far as removing the screws (all 4!) from the glovebox and then removing the 2 screws from inside the right access panel.

But...for the life of me, I cannot seem to get the left access panel (under the radio) to budge. There is a small lip opening on the bottom of the panel that I can barely get my fingers into, but it will not move. I don't want to miss that all important 3rd screw to be able to remove the center access panel, so I need your help.

What am I doing wrong?

[BenjiBoy650]

Hi All!
I'm new here and this is my first post. Hope I'm not too late to get some help on this topic. I got as far as removing the screws (all 4!) from the glovebox and then removing the 2 screws from inside the right access panel.

But...for the life of me, I cannot seem to get the left access panel (under the radio) to budge. There is a small lip opening on the bottom of the panel that I can barely get my fingers into, but it will not move. I don't want to miss that all important 3rd screw to be able to remove the center access panel, so I need your help.

What am I doing wrong?

It is quite a challenge. The first time, I did it the right way and pulled out the entire center console (black, maybe silver on yours, around the radio with vents/AC). Then I pushed down on the panel from the top and it popped out.

The second time I got lazy and stuck a screwdriver in at the top of the panel, left some marks in it. Now I just throw the thing in the trunk, it does nothing as far as I'm concerned so it doesn't bother me! Even leaves a little bit more room for bulkier items in the bin.

[Snapper]

It is quite a challenge. The first time, I did it the right way and pulled out the entire center console (black, maybe silver on yours, around the radio with vents/AC). Then I pushed down on the panel from the top and it popped out.

The second time I got lazy and stuck a screwdriver in at the top of the panel, left some marks in it. Now I just throw the thing in the trunk, it does nothing as far as I'm concerned so it doesn't bother me! Even leaves a little bit more room for bulkier items in the bin.

Thanks Ben, I think I'll try it the right way my first time too - tomorrow, since it's getting kind of late tonight.

P.S. You're sure johnny-on-the-spot about getting answers fast if you include your car info in your sig. Thanks again!

[BenjiBoy650]

Thanks Ben, I think I'll try it the right way my first time too - tomorrow, since it's getting kind of late tonight.

P.S. You're sure johnny-on-the-spot about getting answers fast if you include your car info in your sig. Thanks again!

I forgot to mention I also removed the radio. Youll see it's bolted in with only 4 screws, and you remove the unit with brackets and all still attached. You only pull out a wire harness and the antenna. Seems that your car is not a leather version, but if it is, you will also pull out the plug for the steering wheel controls I think. It's pretty simple all-in-all, but I think I recall the lower panel needing quite a bit of force pushing down on it to pop out. I'm going to assume you know how to remove the center trim panel, but in case you don't just a quick recap.

Pull the clock out, disconnect it. There is one screw behind it, DO NOT DROP IT.

There are two screws on the bottom of the black (silver?) panel.

After that, it's all clips. The whole trim panel comes out minus the radio, which is bolted to the inner dash. Do not pull out too far, as you still have to disconnect the climate controls (2 plugs).

Remove the trim panel, try to push down on the lower panel that's blocking the screw. If you can't get enough access to it, you can remove the radio, then try it again.

Have fun! Oh and another tip, when you put the panels back together, your black/silver panel should have 5 clips if I remember correctly. Make sure you put all those clips back on the HVAC/vents panel. Sometimes, they will get stuck in the radio brackets, and when you put the panel back in you'll just push the things out and then you'll have lost it. Losing one clip might not make a huge difference, but it will annoy you just knowing it ain't there :)

http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/N4TECguy/IMG_53251.sized.jpg
http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/N4TECguy/IMG_53261.sized.jpg

Side note for all those that said the third screw is not mentioned in the DIY link: they DID NOT remove the lower panel. They simply pulled it off to the side. See this pic, you can see it in the lower left corner:
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/8.jpg

[BenjiBoy650]

FYI, I edited according2me's post with the most recent working link. Hope y'all don't mind, especially you according2me :)

[psyshack]

It would be nice if the filters could be found with carbon impregnated in them. It would go along way with odor control. Say like driving in the area of a paper mill, sewage plant, hog farm, major city, active grandchild rump, old farts farts, Im sure you get the point.

I bet one could mod something like this in http://www.bigalsonline.ca/catalog/product.xml?product_id=24541&category_id=3329&pcid1=1965
It Carbon mat. used in canister filters for fish tanks. Its not very restrictive at all. You can see thru it quite easy. The pic dosent show the mat. right at all.

I will have to look into this abit more.

[F6Hawk]

Man, this seems to be quite the project. I can't believe Honda forces us to remove half the dash to replace the filters. On y '99 Montana, all I have to do is remove all the junk from my glove box, and open a door at the rear, then pull the filters out. 5 minutes, if you include the time it takes to throw out the junk that has accumulated in the glove box.

[BenjiBoy650]

Man, this seems to be quite the project. I can't believe Honda forces us to remove half the dash to replace the filters. On y '99 Montana, all I have to do is remove all the junk from my glove box, and open a door at the rear, then pull the filters out. 5 minutes, if you include the time it takes to throw out the junk that has accumulated in the glove box.

I think once you try it for yourself, you will see that it is actually not so hard. The Accord is not a big car - take the dash apart and you will see everything is really crammed in there. It's not that Honda does it for no reason - they have to package everything together in the interest of a bigger interior. A van has no such problem with needing the dash to be small :)

It is the same thing with the wheel wells. You will notice the cutouts for the front wheels are much bigger (thus a bigger fender gap) than in the rear. The rear cutout has to be smaller because they use the room for the rear seat, trunk, etc. The front doesn't really have this limitation so they can make it intrude more on the engine room and give the wheels more room to travel.

[RTexasF]

It would be nice if the filters could be found with carbon impregnated in them. It would go along way with odor control. Say like driving in the area of a paper mill, sewage plant, hog farm, major city, active grandchild rump, old farts farts, Im sure you get the point.

I bet one could mod something like this in http://www.bigalsonline.ca/catalog/product.xml?product_id=24541&category_id=3329&pcid1=1965
It Carbon mat. used in canister filters for fish tanks. Its not very restrictive at all. You can see thru it quite easy. The pic dosent show the mat. right at all.

I will have to look into this abit more.


Check here - click on products

http://www.micronair.com/

[psyshack]

Thanks Tex. The combi filter will do the trick. :)