brake bleeders

[avexnsx]

Hi,

I would like to know if anyone have tried these things called "speedbleeders"... I couldn't seem to find one for the Accord...

Also, I would like to know who have used those brake bleeder kits, and could possibly comment on anything I should look out for if I am using it.

Thanks in advance... :thmsup:

I will be replacing my rear brakes soon, but unsure if I should do rotors and pads, or pads only... when I am done, I will post a DIY...

[benjamming]

I can't speak about the "speedbleeders" b/c I haven't ever used them before.
Are you upgrading the brakes? If not, there is no reason to change the rotor unless it's damaged or needs putting on a lathe again but there's not enough rotor left to do that.

[ericrwalker]

you really shouldn't have to bleed the brakes if you don't change the calipers, if you change the pads and rotors then you shouldn't have to bleed.

[EXLNavi]

you really shouldn't have to bleed the brakes if you don't change the calipers, if you change the pads and rotors then you shouldn't have to bleed.


I dunno, mine feels like it needs a bleeding right now. Softer than usual.

[ericrwalker]

Well there shouldn't be air in the brake lines unless you replaced a brake line or something, but I have heard that brake fluid can boil in the lines causing vapor too so maybe you have some vapors. Or maybe you just need new pads.

[Walt43]

Does Honda still dictate 30k mile brake fluid changes? Anyway, I have a Motive PowerBleeder that works wonders. I've used it on my '00 Ody, '96 Accord and '90 Bronco II without problems.

www.motiveproducts.com

[andysinnh]

Having owned a Saab, the online parts places swear by the Motive brand of brake bleeders. I got one for the Saab and it really makes it easy. The idea behind these is that you fill what looks like a small airless yard sprayer (you add fluid and pump it up with a gauge on the top), and it creates pressure in the brake system, and when you open each wheel's bleed valve, you get the fluid coming out smoothly and slowly, and you just wait till it's clear and close the valve. The one I got is made for European cars, but they had a kit that works for hondas (and others) as well. Their web site http://www.motiveproducts.com/ has info on which you need to buy and full instructions.

This is a great unit - period! :thmsup:

andy

ps - I used to use one of those Mity-vac units, which tries to create vacuum at the wheel cylinder end, but my experience is that as you loosen the bleeder valves, creating vacuum there also allows air to seep in at the valve threads, and you can cause yourself all sorts of problems.....

[andysinnh]

Does Honda still dictate 30k mile brake fluid changes? Anyway, I have a Motive PowerBleeder that works wonders. I've used it on my '00 Ody, '96 Accord and '90 Bronco II without problems.

www.motiveproducts.com

Don't ya just love these thread collisions? :lmao:

[mrjtree]

Haven't replaced calipers or brake fluid on a car, but have done a master cylinder, brake line, and caliper replacements on my motorcycle. The Russell speed bleeder from Edelbrock was a waste. The local Autozone allows you to borrow certain tools for free. :banana: I "borrowed" a vacuum pump and in just a few minutes the whole brake system was fluid filled and air free.

[avexnsx]

sorry to reply so late... I am just changing my brake pads, but I read online somewhere that for an ABS equipped system, it is best to bleed the brakes before compressing the piston... which is why I am asking..
also, for the rotors, the min. thickness before replacement is posted by princess a while ago, I will have to dig it up before I decide to replace the rotors...

Thanks for all the info guys!

[andysinnh]

sorry to reply so late... I am just changing my brake pads, but I read online somewhere that for an ABS equipped system, it is best to bleed the brakes before compressing the piston... which is why I am asking..
also, for the rotors, the min. thickness before replacement is posted by princess a while ago, I will have to dig it up before I decide to replace the rotors...

Thanks for all the info guys!

Well, I've replaced the pads on my old Saab twice, my old Honda odyssey and an Olds Cutlass - all with ABS, and I've never bled the brakes until after I replaced the pads. When you compress the pistons, you increase the fluid in the master cylinder and reduce what's in the caliper, so if you suck all of the fluid out of the cylinder, replace with clean, and then bleed, it works pretty well. Also, from what I've read, the amount of fluid in the ABS system is so small that you don't need to do anything beyond a normal bleed. But if you DO get air into the ABS system, it's a real bear to purge that out....

andy

[psyshack]

Ive never used a power bleeder. I bet the wife would love one. Insted of me yelling,,, PUMP,,1,2,3,4,5,,, HOLD!!!!! :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

I always do a full fluid flush and bleed when I do brake pads or shoes. I make it a point to flush a brake system once a year and at pad replacement time. i want no nastys floating around in the pedal of life.

[gewf631]

I put "speedbleeders" on my Goldwing - a company that makes them is here in the Chicago-area. They make the job much easier, mostly because some of the bleeder screws are hard to get-to.

I've been using the vacuum-pump method for a long time. Use to have access to the pressurized system, but it's mostly a 6 of one, half dozen of another scenario.

And doing a bleed-job every couple years is just good preventative maintenance - brake fluid collects water, and that WILL rust the calipers. Additionally, doing this every couple years, helps keep those bleeder screws from rusting-solid - trust me, you DON'T want that to happen!

[SSMV6]

Brakes should be bled every 2-3 years regardless of mileage.

Ive never used a power bleeder. I bet the wife would love one. Insted of me yelling,,, PUMP,,1,2,3,4,5,,, HOLD!!!!!
Me neither.. I'm too cheap to buy one when there's a free solution that does exactly the same thing. :)

There's another thread with detailed directions on how to bleed the brakes here (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3880)

[EXLNavi]

Well there shouldn't be air in the brake lines unless you replaced a brake line or something, but I have heard that brake fluid can boil in the lines causing vapor too so maybe you have some vapors. Or maybe you just need new pads.


This is what I've heard - Brake fluid has air dissolved in it (any fluid exposed to the atmosphere supposedly has air dissolved in it). When you brake hard the fluid boils and the dissolved air gets trapped in the line, causing spongy brakes.

I don't think I need new pads just yet. Car is going in for an oil change this week though, so I'll have them check.

[SSMV6]

Brake fluid is hygroscopic. It can pull the moisture right out of the air (and it's pretty good at that, too)! The brake fluid's boiling temps get lower every year because it absorbs more and more moisture from the air or contaminants from other parts of the brake system. If the brake fluid boils, the moisture trapped in the fluid will turn into steam and release air bubbles in the brake system. This is why you should not use brake fluid from an opened container and also why you shouldn't check your brake fluid level by opening the cap!

Interesting fact: If you leave a full cup of brake fluid out in the open, it will overflow within a few hours. :)

[benjamming]

SSMV6,

Are you sure about the cup overflowing in a few hours? I don't believe it will.

[SSMV6]

SSMV6,

Are you sure about the cup overflowing in a few hours? I don't believe it will.
Yep. I'm sure about it. I tried it out with some old fluid. Filled a 10oz cup to the rim and proceeded to finish the rest of the brake fluid change (about 20 minutes). By the time I finished, there was a little bubble of fluid above the rim! I went to do other things and came back in about an hour and there was so much fluid that it barely stayed in the cup. If I let it sit there longer, then it would definately have overflowed! :yes:

[atroder]

Has anyone tried a product called speedibleed to bleed the brakes? In my search for a 1-man, power bleeder, it seems to get fairly high marks for other makes. It uses tire pressure to force the old fluid out. I would like to use it on an ex-6.

[legionofone]

just get the bleeders from summit... they are meant for 1 person to use and they have a check ball in them... u break the seal then pump the check ball lets the fluid out but not air back in so ur good... just tighten them back up and do the next one... *ponders about doing all 4 at once lol*

[thesteve151]

they are cheap to make.
all you need is a garden sprayer, a pressure gauge, some rubber tubing, and a extra cap for your break booster. i will see if i can get a pic of a home maid one.

it is not exactly what i was talking about but close enough http://au.geocities.com/ozbrick850/brakes-bleed-bleeder.html

[Foreign_Wide]

Reading through this thread I would like to add my input.

Brake fluid is hydrophilic. If you spill some it easily rinses off with water. It absorbs moisture, and that moisture gravitates down to the lowest point in the system which is your calipers or wheel cylinders. In that, it may be a good idea to bleed your brakes, every once in a while.

Hydraulic brake systems are "closed" systems. If your brakes get "spongey" or the pedal gets low you need to find an internal or external leak in the system. External leaks should be easy to find. Internal leaks could include a defective master cylinder, and bad seals in the calipers or wheel cylinders.

An adequate way to bleed brakes is the tried and true method of having someone "pump up the pedal" in the driver's seat while you open the bleeders screws at each wheel.

A better way to bleed brakes is with a pressure bleeder. Essentially, pressurized brake fluid is fed into the filler on the master cylinder and the bleeder screws at each wheel are opened until no air, or contaminated fluid is observed.

Bottom line.

If the pedal feels fine, and you have relatively low mileage (under 75K?) I would leave it alone. Highr milage than that, I would consider purging contamination.

Can brake fluid "boil?" Yes

But if you are using your brakes to that point, that the heat is that great, you should start to consider "big brake" kits.

Remember. Brakes are a device that converts motion into heat through friction. When your brakes become "heat soaked" you have a hard pedal and reduced, or no, braking. Big trucks know this condition very well.

Take a tip from semi drivers. Use brakes sparingly so they don't overheat.

[BJames]

Fairly simple using a lawn & garden sprayer some common fittings and tubing. I'm sure it is similar to the ones you can buy.
If you want more details or pics let me know.

[ELLSSUU]

Going for ease of bleeding I put Speedbleeders on the Porsche. The Porsche has two bleed screws per caliper so it wasn't a cheap ordeal. My experience is that they aren't worth the money.

I took them off and have been using a Motive (cheaper alternative) ever since.

BTW, I agree that your brake fluid should be purged every 2 years. I also recomend using ATE Blue or gold fluid as it's easy to distinguish when you've purged all of the fluid out. It also has a higher boiling point but that's probably not useful in a daily driver such as an Accord.