I am thinking about trying to add strength to the front strut brace in my 05 accord 6spd. I hear that it is annoying to replace it, so I thought why not try to improve its rigidity and strength as is?? I was thinking of drilling some holes in it and filling the annular space with something that would solidify. Does this make sense or am I out to lunch here? I plan on replacing the rear sway bar with the one from the TL and wanted to increase the rigidity of the front as well.

If I am being mental let me know lol :nuts:

I don't think it'll make a difference unless you pour in like molten steel...but prove us wrong, no one's tried it :dunno:

I am thinking about trying to add strength to the front strut brace in my 05 accord 6spd. I hear that it is annoying to replace it, so I thought why not try to improve its rigidity and strength as is?? I was thinking of drilling some holes in it and filling the annular space with something that would solidify. Does this make sense or am I out to lunch here? I plan on replacing the rear sway bar with the one from the TL and wanted to increase the rigidity of the front as well.

If I am being mental let me know lol :nuts:

It will only work if you use depleted uranium....more bang for the buck! :naughty:

Although I have not installed mine yet ( :censored: cold weather) it really is not difficult...particularly if you have the skills to modify the original "brace". Bear in mind that you don't want to make it too stiff (the brace, that is :D ), since there should be some flex in the structure, lest things start to go "snap" :paranoid:

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I agree that too stiff would be a problem! It is probably a bad idea, just thought I would see what people thought. Changing the rear for me is no sweat, but the front....that sounds like it has a lot of cursing involved! I might try it anyway, once it warms up (its -12 celsius here right now lol). The mod is so cheap how can you go wrong! :thumbsup:

The brace is constructed of tubing.
For a solid rod, doesn't something like 80% of the strength comes from the outer 20% of the diameter?
For the same amount of metal, a much greater gain in strength is to be had by increasing diameter rather than filliing the tubing - - but not practical in your application.

The brace is constructed of tubing.
For a solid rod, doesn't something like 80% of the strength comes from the outer 20% of the diameter?
For the same amount of metal, a much greater gain in strength is to be had by increasing diameter rather than filling the tubing - - but not practical in your application.

That is a true statement. Here is the technical answer to the question. The design is a tube in order to save weight and costs. The load that is applied to the tube is a bending load which yields bending stress in the tube. The internal stress on the tube is greatest at the edges and zero in the center because this is bending stress. Therefore, you there is almost no gain by having a solid tube.

Now, if there was a tensile load (the tube was pulled), than a solid tube is much stronger.

If any of you have seen either airplane wings support beams or the aluminum beams on Tractor trailers there are holes in the beams. In both of those applications, there is only a bending load applied and no need for extra material in the centers of the beams.

That is a true statement. Here is the technical answer to the question. The design is a tube in order to save weight and costs. The load that is applied to the tube is a bending load which yields bending stress in the tube. The internal stress on the tube is greatest at the edges and zero in the center because this is bending stress. Therefore, you there is almost no gain by having a solid tube.

Now, if there was a tensile load (the tube was pulled), than a solid tube is much stronger.

If any of you have seen either airplane wings support beams or the aluminum beams on Tractor trailers there are holes in the beams. In both of those applications, there is only a bending load applied and no need for extra material in the centers of the beams.


Yeppers. "More" is not always better. It's just like welding. Sometimes a single spot weld is stonger than hitting the same spot with multiple welds. The metal will get fatigued. Filling the hollow bar might make sense at first but it won't really do anything except add weight.

Yeah, I agree with you guys. Definitely the outer section of a bar absorbs the most force! All I wanted to do was find an easier way to marginally increase the stiffness. Its not like the new part is expensive, its more the install that I wanted to avoid.

I have a link here FYI if you guys are interested. Explains the whole issue of solid vs. hollow. The hollow is only a bit weaker in comparison to the solid - but you save the weight! :yes:

http://www.hotchkistuning.com/bin/Misc/HollowSwayTech-D.pdf

Thanks a lot for all your input here, I am new to this forum as a member but I read it frequently. Seems to be a lot of knowledgable people here! :thmsup:

No problem. I'm glad you like this site. I agree, there are some very smart and helpful people here. It makes the forum that much more fun to be a part of. :yes:

urr sup..

ok heres my take
1) differentiate between strut bars and sway bars.

there is no rear strut bar, there is a rear sway bar for our cars.

2) making the existing strut bar stiffer = pointless

solution to increase stiffness = add a neuspeed strut bar in addition to the stock bar.

3) if you want to decrease body roll..you need a stiffer sway bar. match the increase in the rear with an increase in front, or else you will get snap oversteer if you are not careful and are pushing your car to the limit (which i dont think anyone has does here unless their car HAS snapped on them).

Thanks, I know the difference between strut and sway bars lol. I wasn't too clear in my previous posts, so its understandable if I confused people. Have to post fast when I'm at work sometimes!

I have read a few opinions that the 17mm rear sway only still leaves the car "relatively" balanced while adding a 20mm rear sway induces the problems you mentioned about oversteer in certain situations. I was thinking about just getting the 17mm and seeing how that goes, its cheap anyway. Might eventually just do the front too if I decide the behavior of the car is unbearable!

My car is pretty much bone stock right now (with the exception of winter tires) since I have only had it for a few months. I am trying to get together an upgrade strategy for it. I think I am gonna get the 17mm rear TL sway, then look at maybe the HFP or the ever popular Tein/Koni combo ($$$ here in the north) and then get some new rubber (might as well use the stock tires until they are worn). I don't like the saggy look of the HFP, so I might go with the Tein/Koni setup.

you will be better served upgrading your tires first. they help more in handling than does upgrading your suspension.
Tein is totally different from koni.

i would go with the Koni Cup kit (koni shock + neuspeed race springs)

I have seen many people around who have the Tein H-Tech and Koni Yellow combination, and they seem to think it works very well. Some people have even said it seems like they were made for each other! I like the drop of the Teins because it eliminates the saggy wheel gap in the rear and makes the tire gap look more even.

I don't want to drop the car too low anyway, as the winters here are horrific. The Teins drop around 0.7" rear and 1.4" front. I looked at the cup kit before, any reason you don't like the H-Techs with yellows? Or do you think the cup kit is a lot better? I just read a lot of positive reviews of that combo, thats all. Some people have even claimed you don't need a camber kit with the H-Techs (although I have my doubts). Can't remember what the drop was with the cup kit. I may just go with the HFP anyway because it is a lot cheaper (and just live with the sagbutt look). Don't have the money right now for a major purchase!

I agree about tires being the best upgrade - I had a civic about 10 years ago stock except for rims and sticky rubber, and wow did those tires make a difference! Was like a new car when cornering (the low profiles with stiffer sidewalls helped too). I just hate the thought of wasting the stock tires (who would want them - they are terrible). When I can afford it, I want to buy new rims anyway so I will probably get new tires then. :yes:

Damn girls are expensive (both gf and car lol) :withstupi

DOH!..i was thinking Tein coilovers and koni shocks...heheheh

this is what you do

get the koni cup kit. set it on the highest perch to keep camber deterioation to a minimum. the high spring rate and rebound adjustability will help body roll.

get a set of summer rims and sticky rubber.

keep the stockies for winter.

total cost ~ $2000.

it hurts but man o man it worth it.