Fujita CAI DIY - 7th Gen. (56K BEWARE)

[joerockt]

Well, here it is, the moment you've all been waiting for :D , the Fujita Cold Air Intake DIY for the 7th gen Accord. Specifically, this is an 06 but it should apply to all 7th gens.

Level of difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10 would be about a 4 or 5 here. If you know your way around an engine compartment and can do basic maintenance (oil changes, brake pad replacement, etc.) this install shouldnt be a problem for you, BUT:

DISCLAMIER - I take NO responsibility for any damage you may cause to your car. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Tool/Supply requirements:

Phillips and flat head screwdrivers. 10 and 11mm sockets. Ratchet with a long or short extension. Adjustable wrench, medium to small size. Pliers. Foam tape.

Prep Work:

Unpack everything (except for the filter, leave in box for now) and place in an accessible area. I found everything to be completely bolt-on, so no modifications to parts in the kit or on the car were necessary.

Place the driver's side of the car on a jackstand and remove the front wheel. Pop the hood, secure it and lets begin.

Installation:

Pictured below is what you will see when you first open the hood. That long tube is what we want to remove at this stage:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall11dt.jpg

Begin by removing the MAF sensor. Its on the left side of the intake tube. Just unscrew and pull it straight out. This may not apply for 03-05's, not sure if they have MAF's or not. Sorry for the blurry pic:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall23da.jpg

With the MAF sensor out, now we need to loosen the two clamps on both ends of the tube and remove several hoses. One of the hoses is clamped on, just slide the clamp out of the way and pull the hose off.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall37xg.jpg

With the clamps loose and the hoses removed, pull the tube off the throttle body and remove. Again, sorry for the blurry pic.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall48xr.jpg

If you refer to the very first pic, all the way to the right were the tube was connected is the Airbox. This will need to be removed next. Remove the bolt shown here. You will need to use the 10mm socket with the extension:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall53fx.jpg

Now, move to the far right of the airbox and remove the bolt shown. Again, refer to the very first pic for a larger view.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall60hx.jpg

The bracket that holds the battery in place will need to be removed. Loosen the two nuts (may need adjustable wrench for this). Remove and set aside, you will need to replace it later.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall86jd.jpg

Their is a tube with a clip attached to the left side of the airbox. Its somewhat difficult to remove so if you happen to break it, no worries. You wont need it, and it can be replaced if you ever decide to convert back.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall96la.jpg

Notice the tube in the next pic. It will need to be disconnected as you pull out the airbox.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall101zz.jpg

Airbox removed:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall114ij.jpg

Now, we need to move to the drivers side wheel well and remove part of the fender lining. Sorry this pic isnt more detailed. Basically what you need to do is remove several clips with the flat head screwdriver and two 11mm bolts. It will be very apparent which clips to remove. Once complete, pull back the lining.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall120dj.jpg

Inside the fender well, you will find the resonator box. Their are two bolts that hold this box in place. One is very easy to get to, as you can see below, the other is a bit more difficult. Start by removing this first bolt:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall133ji.jpg

Now, here is where I ran into an issue, and during my problem solving on how to get to this bolt, I forgot to take pics. Basically, on the TSX, all I needed to do to remove this other bolt was to remove the fog light guard to get to it. This wouldnt work on the Accord, so I ended up partially removing the bumper. The Fujita instructions say to remove the entire bumper, but this isnt necessary. Just remove half of the clips and bolts on the drivers side of the bumper (there is also a screw to remove in the fender well). Then the top portion of the bumper needs to be popped out of place were it meets the headlight. Once popped out, you should have enough room to get your ratchet in there and remove the other bolt. You can now pull out the resonator. Pop the bumper back in place and replace the clips, bolts and screw.

Now, go back to the engine compartment and right in front of the battery is a cover with 2 clips on it. Remove these clips with the pliers, but dont break them.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall155bm.jpg

Remove the cover and disconnect the tube underneath. Replace the cover and reconnect the clips:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall160fa.jpg

Replace the bracket to the battery:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall175gk.jpg

Now, go to the Fujita kit and find the large tube and the 2 large clamps. Place the tube on the throttle body and place both clamps. Tighten the clamp closest to the TB, but leave the other loose.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall185op.jpg

Place the rubber mount just underneath the fuse box. Thread by hand:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall191hj.jpg

Now, grab the intake and place inside the TB clamp. Also, line up the arm on the rubber mount, with the washer on top of the arm. Tighten the clamp and the rubber mount.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall203yn.jpg

Connect both hoses to the intake. Use the provided adapter to connect the larger tube.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall248uk.jpg

Replace the MAF sensor (if equipped) using the supplied machined screws and Allen key:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall239iv.jpg

Grab your filter:

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall254xc.jpg

Attach the filter to the end of the intake in the wheel well, secure with the provided clamp.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall268ws.jpg

Now, here I noticed that the tube comes a little too close to the metal shown below, so I used a piece of foam tape to prevent any rattles.

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall274xt.jpg

Complete!

http://wardswebllc.com/misc/fujitainstall286ht.jpg

Replace the fender lining, put the wheel back on, lower the car and take her for a test drive.

Gains were noticeable with this intake. Mostly in mid-range and upper end RPM's. Vtec is distinct and sound is a nice growl when you get on the throttle. But it sounds stock when cruising. :thmsup:

Hope this helps someone. Good luck and if you have any questions or corrections, please let me know!

[anysia]

i think it might be best to post pics in multiple posts in a thread... it took forever for my pc at work to load these! :eek: it seems to go quicker when there's tons of posts with individual pics in it....

[joerockt]

i think it might be best to post pics in multiple posts in a thread... it took forever for my pc at work to load these! :eek: it seems to go quicker when there's tons of posts with individual pics in it....

It shouldnt make any difference.

[stevel]

it's most likely slower than normal because the pictures aren't actually attatched here, you linked to them on another site....

[satanzrejekt]

Wow. Thanks!
I might get it installed tomorrow then!! :)

vroom?

[joerockt]

it's most likely slower than normal because the pictures aren't actually attatched here, you linked to them on another site....

Yea, their linked to imageshack. Didnt know I could attach pics here. Most forums dont let you do that...

I'd rather have them saved in Imageshack anyway...

[BenjiBoy650]

Thanks for the awesome writeup Joe, it would be awesome if everyone did this for every mod :thmsup: The pictures are bigger than normal but that's understandable and appreciated, given that they help a lot in most cases. How the pictures are arranged in posts do not matter, and they loaded quickly for me. I set my scroll size at 6 lines per click on the scroll wheel, and I scrolled through as fast as I could...only 2 pictures were not loaded when I passed them and I'd say that's pretty good speed.

[Wardsweb]

I have moved the pictures to one of my servers and resized them. It's faster now.

[RTexasF]

As of 3-11-06 I only get the red X's!!?? No pics.

[Inspector1]

? They were there at 6 AM this morning ??? Now the red x's

I1 :dunno:

[samsonskeg]

too much bandwith?

[Wardsweb]

Glitch at the server company, they were offline for about 2 hours this morning. My appologies.

[joerockt]

Thanks for the resize. I wanted to keep them large to show detail, but I forget that I'm running 1600x1200 :D

I think everyone will get the idea...

[BenjiBoy650]

I forget that I'm running 1600x1200 :D

Same here :D

[ThEvil0nE]

Very nice :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup:

Do you get less rain or more where you're at?

[SSMV6]

I forget that I'm running 1600x1200 :DMe three! :D

BTW, nice writeup, joe. :yes:

[joerockt]

Very nice :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup:

Do you get less rain or more where you're at?

Compaired to where? :dunno: We hardly get much rain, in fact this past weekend was the most we've had in a year.

[SSMV6]

I wouldn't worry about hydrolocking the engine much unless you like to drive through lakes... :D I had a CAI in my old Civic Si for 4 years and i've never ran into a problem with puddles. I've gone through puddles that are about a foot deep without any problems and my car was lowered! You just got to make sure you're not accelerating when you're going through the deeper puddles to minimize the chances of it sucking up water.

[joerockt]

^^^ :yes: I've had mine for 1.5 years and no issues even driving through an inch or so of water. In fact, if you look at the pic of where the filter is, its almost above the wheel. So, if you drive into water that deep, hydrolocking will be the least of your worries :paranoid:

[SiClone]

Excellent write up!!! :thumbsup:

[outersquare]

didn't see this until today

don't forget to clean out the intake before installation, mine had alot of polishing compound residue in it.

The intake/filter doesn't have a stop/lip, be careful not to seat the filter too far onto the intake as to block flow/create turbulence.

also level of difficulty is pretty easy, no jacking the car involved. I finished in less than 2 hrs, spending 20 minutes or so fighting some of harness clips.

[joerockt]

didn't see this until today

don't forget to clean out the intake before installation, mine had alot of polishing compound residue in it.

The intake/filter doesn't have a stop/lip, be careful not to seat the filter too far onto the intake as to block flow/create turbulence.

also level of difficulty is pretty easy, no jacking the car involved. I finished in less than 2 hrs, spending 20 minutes or so fighting some of harness clips.

All the DIY's should be a sticky in here. Mods?

I found it eaiser to just take the front wheel off. I dont know how you pulled out the resonator without doing this. Unless you took the whole bumper off, which would take more time then just taking off the wheel.

[BenjiBoy650]

If we stickied everything we'd just end up with a huge list of stuff in a different order :dunno:

[joerockt]

If we stickied everything we'd just end up with a huge list of stuff in a different order :dunno:

Not every post in here is a DIY. Whats wrong with just stickying the DIY specific threads? Its not like theirs that many of them anyway. But at least they would be a lot easier to find.

[JRC2010]

Wow, that was a great write up :banana: . Thanks for resizing the images for us 56K folks. :thmsup:

[somedj]

Wow, thats friggin awsome!Nice pics.This really helps.I was about to get an AEM Cold air intake.Seeing all the trouble it is am reconsidering and might get a short ram instead. :dunno:

[faderrific]

AWESOME writeup and pictures, I can't wait till I get mine tomorrow. I'm tempted to rip my airbox out now and drive to work in my truck or just be patient and wait.

decisions, decisions...

[avexnsx]

any feedback on the low end of the powerband? slightly less power or about the same?

great write up btw..

[joerockt]

any feedback on the low end of the powerband? slightly less power or about the same?

great write up btw..

Thanks man. You know, I dont drive it daily so its hard to say. I didnt really notice anything right after I installed it though...

[joerockt]

AWESOME writeup and pictures, I can't wait till I get mine tomorrow. I'm tempted to rip my airbox out now and drive to work in my truck or just be patient and wait.

decisions, decisions...

Thanks :thmsup:

[faderrific]

Finally got mine all hooked up and working. I didn't realize there were so many differences between the I4 and V6. I got the instructions from Fujita but they were like a photocopy printed too dark and pretty much useless.

Here are the problems that I ran into:
-broke one of the clips in the wheel well (oh well)
-getting end of resonator tube out (had to take off the coolant line to squeeze it through)
-new crankcase hose cable 1/4" too short (lots of pulling and tension, I'm going to go buy a new one at NAPA)
-vibration mount didn't seem to mount anywhere (doesn't vibrate against anything anyways)

Ok, now that I have the negatives out of the way, the positives are:
-nice noticable gain
-nice whistle when slightly accelerating and deeper growl when flooring it
-looks WAY better than stock airbox and resonator
-i got an awesome hat, bag, NOS energy drink and 4 stickers

All in all, you can't go wrong with this, especially for 99 bucks and free shipping!

I give 1 3/4 thumbs up.

[SSMV6]

Finally got mine all hooked up and working. I didn't realize there were so many differences between the I4 and V6. I got the instructions from Fujita but they were like a photocopy printed too dark and pretty much useless. My sentiments exactly.. Took me a good 20 minutes to figure out that they want to remove the throttle body coolant and crankcase lines completely.

Here are the problems that I ran into:
-broke one of the clips in the wheel well (oh well) If it bothers you, then you could always borrow one from the front bumper clips. :)
-getting end of resonator tube out (had to take off the coolant line to squeeze it through)I didn't want to deal with losing more coolant so I took out the battery bracket instead. Just got to loosen two bolts and remove two bolts, but my hand slipped and I took off a nice chunk of flesh. :(
-new crankcase hose cable 1/4" too short (lots of pulling and tension, I'm going to go buy a new one at NAPA)I need a new one, too.. They really should have pointed the airlet towards the back of the engine instead of straight down.
-vibration mount didn't seem to mount anywhere (doesn't vibrate against anything anyways)You need to remove the wiring harness clip from the body before you can install the vibration mount. Make sure you put it in or you're going to wear a hole in your new intake before you know it!

Ok, now that I have the negatives out of the way, the positives are:
-nice noticable gain
-nice whistle when slightly accelerating and deeper growl when flooring it
-looks WAY better than stock airbox and resonator
-i got an awesome hat, bag, NOS energy drink and 4 stickers

All in all, you can't go wrong with this, especially for 99 bucks and free shipping!

I give 1 3/4 thumbs up.Not to mention the slight increase in fuel efficiency. :thmsup: You got 4 stickers?! They only gave me 2 :thumbsdow (It's not like I'm going to put them on my car anyway so it's all good. :D )

[FalloutBoy]

I just installed the CAI for my '03 V6 Coupe. Took about 2.5 hours, though probably would have went faster if I followed Joerockt's instructions rather than the hard-to-deciper Fuijta ones.

Interestingly enough, I also broke a fender-wall clip. And no, you can't use a bumper clip, as they're different sizes (I spent 10 minutes trying to figure that one out :D

I only got 2 stickers myself... but I do like the hat they gave out (not a cheap printed-on one.. rather it's a cheap rubber-logo one =).

The crankcase hose, as the previous 2 posts have pointed out, is too short (which is just plain dumb). Out of the whole install, probably the hoses were the toughest to deal with, as it's a cramped space and coolant is coming out of one of the hoses and 2 of the hose ports. Also removing the bracket from the A/C line isn't very clear/obvious, but there's a small release catch that you have to press in to get it off.

An alternate set of instructions for K&N's Typhoon syst (http://www.kandn.com/instructions/69-1207.pdf)em is much better at explaining how to do the install than the crappy Fujita ones. They have you take out the battery instead of the front bumper, which sound easier (whether it is in real life, I dunno). But at least a good part of the install is similar (probably everything except for the vibration mount), and the pictures are far better, so at least it gives you an idea what's going to be happening. One thing neat about the K&N filter is that it gives you an option of using the system as a SRI for the hurricane season =)

One thing the K&N instructions point out that was missed so far is that the '03's have different air boxes/resonators than the '04+.

[kushballz]

so basically this fujita intake works just fine with the 06 right? i have an mtx will that make a differecne

[abrarster]

OK, so i finally finished installing it. I had some more trouble than you guys did with a bunch of random stuff, probably because I'm not used to working on cars like this.

I followed the Fujita instructions and took off the bumper. But we had a hell of a time trying to pull out the resonator. We ended up taking the battery out, that light cover, and took off the bolt holding the lower intake pipe (or whatever it is). Then we had to move it around to an angle to be able to disconnect the resonator from the pipe, while jamming flat head screwdrivers into the area where they connect.

Also for the 12.7 mm hose, we ended up just going to autozone and getting a longer hose right then and there instead of having to deal with stretching it out.

Quick question though - since there is nothing to stop you from putting the filter too far into the pipe, how far should it go in??? I just put it in far enough so the pipe ends at the point where the lip on the filter ends. Is this right?

Here are some pictures:

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/1843/s4020373qj5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5387/s4020372hi9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

and the placement of the filter:

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/1894/s4020368qp0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

And, as everybody else has said, you can really hear the difference about 4500 rpms. And above 3000 rpms you can hear the engine whistle. I havent driven it around too much, so I can't comment on the power increase. Seems like a solid investment so far.

The filter is pretty low though. Driving in the rain won't be a problem because its shielded by the bumper on the front and the side, and the plastic of the fenderwell on the bottom. However, I will be wary of driving through bigger puddles.

[joerockt]

Quick question though - since there is nothing to stop you from putting the filter too far into the pipe, how far should it go in??? I just put it in far enough so the pipe ends at the point where the lip on the filter ends. Is this right?


Congrats and good job! With regards to the filter, on all of the past intakes I've done, the filter can only go so far on the intake. I usually just get it on so that the lip of the filter covers its length on the intake. After that, just tighten the clamp and it isnt going anywhere :thmsup:

[ffiallo]

What yr is your car? Is it an '06 automatic - I think I see the trans fluid measure stick? Pls tell me if you had adapting or customizing to do, as supposedly the '05 and '06 are different.

[abrarster]

mine is an 04, so sorry i can't help you there with your question.

There wasn't any modification needed. Just followed the instructions. Putting in the new intake was easy. Getting off the old stock one sucked.

[03LXAccord]

Do you have to take off the front wheel?

My Injen CAI is coming on Friday...and I want to install it myself. Would the standard, stock jack work?

[joerockt]

Do you have to take off the front wheel?

My Injen CAI is coming on Friday...and I want to install it myself. Would the standard, stock jack work?

Yea, your going to need to peel back the fender liner and get the resonator out, both very difficult to do without taking off the wheel.

You can use the jack that comes with the car, but make sure you put something under the car like a jackstand incase that jack fails. Safe then sorry.

[abrarster]

or you could take off the bumper. it really isnt that big of a hassle. its just a bunch of plastic screws and a couple of bolts. if you do it that way you dont even have to jack up the car. but when you are underneathe it, everything is literally an inch away from your face though.

it's not bad at all. its definately something you could do at home. the only confusing part for me was to figure out what hoses go where. that was mostly because of the terrible instructions from fujita.

[03LXAccord]

I think I'm gonna go with the bumper. :thmsup:

Nuts and bolts I can deal. Wheel, no.

[ffiallo]

Thanks to all those that at some point threw in their 2 cents :)

Did it yesterday with a friend and so far I like it. Car seems quicker on the low to mid range. Hi range is maybe the same or maybe even at tad slower, not sure if its due to computer remapping everything or that during test drive it was windy and we were 2 in the car. It took about 1 hr and 25 min. We took our time doing it nicely and cautiously.
it sound factory unless pushed above 3.8 - 4K rpm, then it awakes and screams until redline - if driven manually. If not gearshifts continue kind of low at around 6.2 - 6.4 (depending on gear)

Things learned:
1.- We decided to buy longer hoses and not mess with the short Fujita supplied ones. - GREAT DECISION!
2.- Remove front wheel and battery, release fender. No need to remove bumper, just let loose the 2 bottom screws to remove OEM resonator box.

Good luck!

[03LXAccord]

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/6/fujitainstall11dtfd7.jpg

Isn't there a connection here? It's like the MAP sensor or something? Do you just take it out and don't put it back in? :dunno: Because it's awfully hard to yank out...

[joerockt]

There was nothing there on mine.

[03LXAccord]

I guess it's for 03s then. It's a sensor grommet...It takes a lot of brute force to work it out, but below the circled area...there was nothing there? Mine is jammed with sensors that remark: MAP.

The Injen instructions are decent...actually, pretty good. But removing the PCV pipe, stock breather hose (Impossible) is a task for the Gods. Should I just pick up some WD-40 or give it to the pros? :thumbsdow

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/362/340870002ha9.jpg

[VTECaddict]

I guess it's for 03s then. It's a sensor grommet...It takes a lot of brute force to work it out, but below the circled area...there was nothing there? Mine is jammed with sensors that remark: MAP.
do you have a manual tranny? the automatic accords have a MAF sensor located right after the filter box instead of the MAP sensor by the intake manifold (look at joerockt's pics more closely and you'll see it).

the automatic I4 sedans had it that way since 03, automatic I4 coupes got the MAF in 05+. all MT I4 accords still have the MAP sensor.

[03LXAccord]

No, I have a auto tranny. I'll take some pics. :dunno:

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/7370/dcp0008lx0.jpg
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/6700/dcp0010vx6.jpg
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9145/dcp0014ml6.jpg
Where's the second clamp!?

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/4176/dcp0011sx6.jpg

[joerockt]

You know, I think I had this on my TSX. Its just a connector. Just push down on the top of the connector and it will slide right out. Once you get the whole tube out, you can get to the base connector a little more easier.

As far as the breather hose goes...Get some pliers and just give it hell...

[SSMV6]

A better method might be to use a flat head screwdriver and wiggle the meeting edge of the breather hose loose first. The beather tubes act like the chinese finger traps... The harder you pull on the hose, the harder it'll try to grip onto the connector. You need to push it off the connector, not pull.

[03LXAccord]

Cursed Honda engineers and their resistance to aftermarket modding. :headbash:

EDIT- Joe, are you talking about the green tagged sensor? And you drive w/o it? :paranoid:

The meeting edge is the one closest to the crankshaft right? Or is it to the PCV pipe/pre-chamber.

[joerockt]

Cursed Honda engineers and their resistance to aftermarket modding. :headbash:

EDIT- Joe, are you talking about the green tagged sensor? And you drive w/o it? :paranoid:

The meeting edge is the one closest to the crankshaft right? Or is it to the PCV pipe/pre-chamber.

Resistance to aftermarket modding...Are you joking?

What the hell are you talking about? What green tagged sensor? Just pull off everything attached to the tube for chrissake!!

Ok, Im looking at your pic. If your talking about that green thing in the 2nd pic, that looks like you MAF sensor attached to the throttle body. You dont need to detach that.

Seriously, I would just consider taking it to a shop to have it done. Its been a month and you havent got past step one. You're no where near the hard part, which is getting the resonator out...

[faderrific]

You're no where near the hard part, which is getting the resonator out...

That was by far the hardest part.
:censored: :furious: