I just installed the front strut tower brace and thought I might 'upgrade' the rear sway bar again. I say again because I went from stock to the 17mm part. Should I push it and get the 20mm part? Anyone want to swap? :)

I did the same thing...stock to 17mm then 17mm to 20mm. There is a notable difference between the 17 & 20 and I will never go back. I suggest you try the 20mm and keep the 17mm until you do so. You never know, you may not like the 20mm bar.

Good luck :)

I agree w/Cordi. The change is clearly worthwhile. However, I don't think the difference was as great as the change from stock to 17mm. I'm going to put my old 17mm on my wife's 03 coupe when I get around to it.

I'm still riding on the stock 15" wheels and tires so maybe the sway bar upgrade, upgrade is premature.

Where is the best place for one to get his hands on a 17mm? I'd like one.

Where is the best place for one to get his hands on a 17mm? I'd like one.

Order online or pick up from an acura dealership.

I'm still riding on the stock 15" wheels and tires so maybe the sway bar upgrade, upgrade is premature.

i would say so yes it is indeed premature. your better served swapping to a wider tire setup.

i cant decide between the 17mm and 20mm. my car (below) is stock now, but i plan to lower with h-techs, get the 6spd rims, and 6spd strut bar eventually. any downsides to the 20mm? i know the supposedly increased chances of oversteer, but i dont see myself pushing my car hard enough for it to oversteer. :confused:

i cant decide between the 17mm and 20mm. my car (below) is stock now, but i plan to lower with h-techs, get the 6spd rims, and 6spd strut bar eventually. any downsides to the 20mm? i know the supposedly increased chances of oversteer, but i dont see myself pushing my car hard enough for it to oversteer. :confused:
Do you know what your fronts are? All I know is my front sway is 26mm but no idea about Strut bars. So far, I'm only going with the sway bar in the back.. But I do eventually want to safely do everything.. no clue though..so for the timebeing, I'm going 20mm TL 6 spd rear sway bar!

the front is the stock 25.4mm

the front is the stock 25.4mm

So if the front sway is 25.4? What is the stock sway bar size in the back? Also too, does the TL have the same J30 coded engine but modified a bit with different gearing etc? Also too, a 20mm sway in the back shouldn't cause any dangerous situations whatsoever would it..like this oversteer?? I am mildly afraid that the oversteer will cause a dangerous situation at high speeds and/or highspeed maneuvers such as lane changes, sudden hard stops, mild emergency scenarios. What do you think? Is 17mm the safest bet?? And if so, should I get the 17mm off the AT TL (2006 model) versus the 20mm off the 6spd? :dunno:

So if the front sway is 25.4? What is the stock sway bar size in the back? Also too, does the TL have the same J30 coded engine but modified a bit with different gearing etc? Also too, a 20mm sway in the back shouldn't cause any dangerous situations whatsoever would it..like this oversteer?? I am mildly afraid that the oversteer will cause a dangerous situation at high speeds and/or highspeed maneuvers such as lane changes, sudden hard stops, mild emergency scenarios. What do you think? Is 17mm the safest bet?? And if so, should I get the 17mm off the AT TL (2006 model) versus the 20mm off the 6spd? :dunno:
The rear sway is 14mm for I4 and 13mm for V6. The TL uses a J32 but I don't see how gearing plays any role in this.

You should really understand the effects of an anti-sway bar before you go out and do it. Anytime you put on a larger sway bar, you inherently get less roll but also less grip. Less grip from the back end means you are going to get more oversteer...it's a tradeoff with no two ways around it. You could run larger rear tires but that would be a dumb idea for most. The "safest bet" would be you leaving it as is

The rear sway is 14mm for I4 and 13mm for V6. The TL uses a J32 but I don't see how gearing plays any role in this.

You should really understand the effects of an anti-sway bar before you go out and do it. Anytime you put on a larger sway bar, you inherently get less roll but also less grip. Less grip from the back end means you are going to get more oversteer...it's a tradeoff with no two ways around it. You could run larger rear tires but that would be a dumb idea for most. The "safest bet" would be you leaving it as is

That's one of the reasons why I am going with the 17mm myself (and I already have a 6spd coupe with HFP suspension). 20mm would be great...but I'm worried that in an emergency situation I may lose control of the car. Besides, I'm not looking for a "super-handing beast" (although it would be nice)...I just want somewhat better handling out of my Accord which in my case is mainly a highway cruiser due to my commute.

The rear sway is 14mm for I4 and 13mm for V6. The TL uses a J32 but I don't see how gearing plays any role in this.

You should really understand the effects of an anti-sway bar before you go out and do it. Anytime you put on a larger sway bar, you inherently get less roll but also less grip. Less grip from the back end means you are going to get more oversteer...it's a tradeoff with no two ways around it. You could run larger rear tires but that would be a dumb idea for most. The "safest bet" would be you leaving it as is

But if the front is 25.4, then it *should* be able to handle a 20mm rear away bar, no problem right?? If the TL doesn't experience any lost control or dangerous spinouts then why would the Accord? Aren't the chassis similar? The reason I asked about the engine code on the TL is isn't it based off an Accord. Aren't they both "big berthas" of sorts and can handle the 20mm sway bar in the back? What about all these folks moving to 20mm from 17mm. I know they may not have thought it over well in terms of the law of diminishing returns but I am willing to bet the 20mm will be fine. But I think I understand that I don't know *everything* about suspension systems or auto mechanics in general and might go with the 17mm simply because thats what is on the Automatic Tranny TL and I have an AT Accord. Wouldn't that ensure a better suspension geometry setup then going with the 20mm off the 6spd? Also, the issue with alignment and uneven wearing, wouldn't a 17mm off the AT be a better fit for my AT Accord then the 6spd? Wouldn't it allow me to not even think abouthaving to do an alignmnet versus if I put a 20mm, I may have to check my alignment "just in case"? What do you all think? Get the 17mm off the AT TL for my AT Accord?

But if the front is 25.4, then it *should* be able to handle a 20mm rear away bar, no problem right?? If the TL doesn't experience any lost control or dangerous spinouts then why would the Accord? Aren't the chassis similar?

Well yes they are, but its about the front and rear being properly balanced for one another. True you are closer to having it balanced with a tower strut bar, upgraded suspension, and larger tires (aside from the 215s on the V6) and the 20mm rather than a base model Accord without those "upgrades" and a 20mm bar...but its still not exactly the same. Don't forget the TL also has much better brakes than the Accord, meaning it can and will react differently in different situations compared to what would happen in an Accord, even with the 20mm rear sway.

Basically the whole goal (outside of drifting or rallying) is to have a car with as close to neutral handing as possible which means no oversteer and no understeer. Honda "tuned" the stock setup for some understeer, as most drivers can cope with it by slowing down, whereas with oversteer they would be overspeed in corners and spin the car. IMO the V6 has a 1mm smaller bar because of this, and Honda worried that more power = more speed into the corners and twisties. So in other words what you need/want is a bar that will give you as close to neutral as possible, and sometimes the biggest bar out there is not the way to go depending on what else you have on your car (be it stock parts or otherwise).

Don't forget too that you by upgrading the rear sway it doesn't mean now your car is "on rails" and you can push it way beyond its old limits in all corners just because it doesn't understeer anymore (esp depending on your driving skill)...because thats a good way to end up in the ditch or worse...

I am willing to bet the 20mm will be fine.
If you are willing to bet, then go ahead. :dunno: For me I think it's not worth it...these aren't race cars...

Your comparisons can't be made, here's why. I can show you two IDENTICAL Accords that have different springs/shocks and they will handle completely different. I could make one oversteer badly and one understeer badly. You can't compare a TL and an Accord and say that because the TL uses a 20mm then the Accord can use a 20mm safely. The suspension tuning is different to compensate for it on the TL.

For reference, the Accord uses the same aftermarket suspension parts as the TSX, not the TL, so that would be a better comparison.

There are no alignment or uneven wear issues with changing a sway bar - it does not change any suspension geometry.

People use the 20mm because they will take the compromise. It gives better handling most of the time but in the emergency situation, it's going to spin. It's happened before to a member on this forum, and it will happen again to somebody else, guaranteed. Better handling in most peoples eyes means being more balanced. The Accord inherently understeers, so balancing it out would mean making the rear end grip less or the front end grip more...either way you get more yaw out of the rear end and it's going to be more likely to spin. It's the same for an Accord, a TL, a RL, a Pilot, a Viper, a Ferrari...it's just nature's law.

I have the 20mm bar on my car, and I have no troubles whatsoever. Benji is straight on - you can't compare different cars because it isn't apples to apples, which should be apparent.

However, I disagree about this "dangerous" loss of control in emergency situations. Yes, in very specific situations, like driving at a high rate of speed where the weight quickly shifts the back end could swing around more easily (and has for some people from what I have read, although it could be a scapegoat for some bad driving as well).

However, unless you have the part on your car and have driven the car at its limits you really can't know. I have induced oversteer on my car on several occasions, and the car is easily controllable. I find my car with the 20mm very neutral handling, oversteer is only present if you are really pushing, and I mean REALLY pushing.

I have also had to avoid a raccoon with oncoming traffic (that would have screwed my front lip, big sucker) while driving around 100 km/h, and I felt little rear end slippage although those michelins scream like a girl. That's my main confirmation that I can trust the 20mm, I really don't find it to be a problem. Do the same manoever at 160 km/h? The 20mm might induce the back end to swing, but lets get serious here - should you be driving that fast? Should you be quickly shifting the weight of the car while driving that fast? Hmmm.

The 17mm or 20mm rear sway issue has been beaten to death all over the net. Either part would be fine IMO. :D

This is a little bit like...Oh heck I'm just going 2 blocks to the store, I don't need a seatbelt. Then *WHAM* you get T-boned at the first block :lmao: Also the same as "it isn't illegal unless you get caught." Sure it won't kill you in normal driving...but all it takes would be that one time right? I wouldn't be so sure that a normal driver could be up to handling it in an emergency...every situation is different. What is the road was wet and you were going 100kmh? That's not unrealistic is it? Or you had a lot of weight in the back, which would have carried a lot of momentum?

Oh yeah and in case you hadn't noticed...THE SKY IS FALLING!!! :yes:

This is a little bit like...Oh heck I'm just going 2 blocks to the store, I don't need a seatbelt. Then *WHAM* you get T-boned at the first block :lmao: Also the same as "it isn't illegal unless you get caught." Sure it won't kill you in normal driving...but all it takes would be that one time right? I wouldn't be so sure that a normal driver could be up to handling it in an emergency...every situation is different. What is the road was wet and you were going 100kmh? That's not unrealistic is it? Or you had a lot of weight in the back, which would have carried a lot of momentum?

Oh yeah and in case you hadn't noticed...THE SKY IS FALLING!!! :yes:

Like I said above...I have to agree with BenjiBoy on this one. I consider myself a pretty good driver (compared to most ppl on the road) however I know I am not a pro by any means of the word. I've been in emergency situations before on the freeway, and try my best to do everything the "proper" way every now and then if I have to react fast enough all that goes out the window and I just react.

Its like how cars have ABS...I think I have only ever used it twice. I've had to threshold brake countless times, but in 1-2 cases where the car/truck/whatever in front of me loses control (it has happened), I did end up relying on ABS to help me out of a bad situation. 99% of the time its not what you do/how you drive, its how the idiot in front of you (or behind you, or beside you) drives.

I mean thats the real issue here...it only takes 1 time out of 1 million (or more) to wreck your car or worse end your life. In the end anyone can get whatever sway, do whatever upgrade they feel fit (and I am really not trying to knock anyone here at all), all I know is I'm going with the 17mm to play it safe "just in case".

And also for ANYONE planning to buy one of these I'd recommend reading up on what a swaybar is, what it does, and how it works instead of just buying one because "everyone else is" and because its cheap...I'm not directing this at anyone at all, and I'm pretty sure 98% or more of the people here do read up...but there are always a few who don't (and I don't want anything bad to happen to anyone).

That's one of the reasons why I am going with the 17mm myself (and I already have a 6spd coupe with HFP suspension). 20mm would be great...but I'm worried that in an emergency situation I may lose control of the car. Besides, I'm not looking for a "super-handing beast" (although it would be nice)...I just want somewhat better handling out of my Accord which in my case is mainly a highway cruiser due to my commute.

I think I am going with the 17mm as well.. Can you tell me which TL you are getting it off and what year and also if you have the part numbers for everything; bar, bushings, bracket. bolts? and whatever else you need to install it. Thanks. Yeah better safe then sorry and I do high speed driving so this is so important. :thumbsup:

I think I am going with the 17mm as well.. Can you tell me which TL you are getting it off and what year and also if you have the part numbers for everything; bar, bushings, bracket. bolts? and whatever else you need to install it. Thanks. Yeah better safe then sorry and I do high speed driving so this is so important. :thumbsup:
It's the first modification listed in the 7th gen FAQ, part numbers are there :yes: I believe you should be able to reuse the bolts.

You will enjoy the difference in the cars feel when you take out your car after putting on a bigger rear sway! I was surprised when I first drove mine, I thought the difference would hardly be noticable.

I see your point Benji. Most people make a compromise everyday driving their car that is probably just as if not more dangerous than a 20mm sway vs 17mm. Everyone should drive sport tires in the summer and winter tires in the snow, those all season tires with their traction compromises...What about that one in a million time when you could avoid certain doom from having the extra traction? What if you had to dodge the sky falling on your car? :banana:

I think I am going with the 17mm as well.. Can you tell me which TL you are getting it off and what year and also if you have the part numbers for everything; bar, bushings, bracket. bolts? and whatever else you need to install it. Thanks. Yeah better safe then sorry and I do high speed driving so this is so important. :thumbsup:

I know when I was looking it all up it got confusing which parts were for the 20mm sway and for the 17mm sway. The 17mm swaybar is from the current gen base model TL (I believe that means 2004+) as it is the current gen "dynamic" model TL that has the 20mm. Here are the part numbers for the 17mm swaybar:

Qty 1, 52300-SEP-A03, 17mm Stabilizer Spring (Sway Bar)
Qty 2, 52306-SEP-A02, Stabilizer Bushings
Qty 2, 52308-S3M-A00, Holder

As far as I know this is all you need...however someone please chime in if I left something out (I still have to order all this for my car as well anyways...lol).

Those are all the parts you will need. I installed mine in about 45 min, pretty easy. The worst part about it is the rusted bolts - they can be on there pretty good. You will need something to loosen them before you get them off.

I have heard that the bushings can sometimes squeak too, so I lubricated mine (probably not a big deal though).

when I bought mine, I just asked the guy @ the parts counter to give me some lube... my biggest problem is the 20 mm bar hitting the exhaust bracket... but not anymore! fixed it last weekend... now I know what it's really supposed to feel like...!

I think I am going with the 17mm as well.. Can you tell me which TL you are getting it off and what year and also if you have the part numbers for everything; bar, bushings, bracket. bolts? and whatever else you need to install it. Thanks. Yeah better safe then sorry and I do high speed driving so this is so important. :thumbsup:

Did you get your sway bar on??? We want to see pictures?????

I1 :)

I've got another thought... how about aftermarket urethane bushings for the 17mm bar. What do ya think?

I've got another thought... how about aftermarket urethane bushings for the 17mm bar. What do ya think?
I think it's just going to make the ride stiffen up :dunno:

Stiffen body roll yes, general ride, no.

I think it's just going to make the ride stiffen up :dunno:

Stiffen body roll yes, general ride, no.

It would likely transmit more vibration to the subframe, moreso than the rubber bushings.

Urethane bushing will increase the effective rate of the sway bar and decrease the amount of body roll. They will also increase the amount of vibration transmitted to the body due to the increased stiffness of the mounts. Changing the bushings is a very effective way of incrementally increasing the effective diameter of a sway bar, you'll probably end up with the equivilent of an 18 - 18.5mm bar with rubber bushings. You will need to make sure you thoroughly grease both bushings as urethane will squeak unless greased. I've used this method on a couple cars when there either were no aftermarket bars available or I needed to go stiffer than what was available. It's also relatively cheap to try so if it doesn't work out your not out much money. J.C.Wittney is a good place to get them from, you just need to know the dimensions of the bushing.

Another thing to try if you want is changing the endlinks to new ones made of stronger materials and urethane bushing, but again wqhile it'll increase the effective rate of the sway bar it'll also increase the harshness transmitted to the car.

But can someone explain to me why Honda would install a slightly smaller 13mm sway on the V6 Accord vis-a-vis the 14mm found on the I4's?

I have the V6 and find the body roll and push a bit too much for my taste and will probably install the TL 17mm down the road but just wondering on the above, however.

You guys know what you are talking about and are great help by the way. Thx

It probably all comes down to balanced ride and handling, or at least what Honda deems to be "balanced." Either Honda thought that the V6 buyers wanted something with a cushier ride (after thinking about it, I think this is rather unlikely) or the 13mm bar just worked a little better with the slightly heavier/recalibrated V6 front ends.

Thx for the quick reply. But technically, why would you put a smaller sway in the rear of a car with a heavier front-end? What characteristics would this achieve versus the 4 banger's setup?

Wouldn't the v6 then push even more since there is more weight upfront with less oversteer induced by a smaller, albeit it 1mm smaller, rear sway? Shouldn' t they have put a bigger sway in the v6 to neutralize the heavier front end?

On a another note, it peeves me that Honda tends not to include fogs as standard equipment on most of their cars, but that's for another day. :grumpy:

Thx for the quick reply. But technically, why would you put a smaller sway in the rear of a car with a heavier front-end? What characteristics would this achieve versus the 4 banger's setup?

Wouldn't the v6 then push even more since there is more weight upfront with less oversteer induced by a smaller, albeit it 1mm smaller, rear sway? Shouldn' t they have put a bigger sway in the v6 to neutralize the heavier front end?

On a another note, it peeves me that Honda tends not to include fogs as standard equipment on most of their cars, but that's for another day. :grumpy:
Like I said there are other changes in the suspension, so they might have caused the rear end to kick out ever so slightly. That can be fixed by a slightly smaller rear sway.

who knows why they do what they do.

they even downsized the sway diameters both front and rear from 6th to 7th gen. go figure. :dunno:

Could suspension modifications adversely affecting those Accord models with VSA?

I went straight from standard to the 20MM and love the way it handles, but then again, I like my car having less grip in the rear. It reminds me of driving a RWD car. I always hated how FWD "pushes" when you take a fast corner, now it's "loose" and thats the way I like it! But everyone is different and you may not like that feeling. So you may want to try it, before getting rid of the 17MM.

I tried both the 17mm and then the 20.Very cheap and quick mod.
I prefer the 17mm especially running on empty and in the wet.
The 17 mm along with the tower bar is bordering on neutral.
Anything above the 20,you might want to upgrade the front
too.

I have both the 27mm front & 20mm rear. My Accord feels a lot more planted now in the corners instead of having the excessive body roll. Now there is still some roll, but it just feels so much better! :banana:

I have both the 27mm front & 20mm rear. My Accord feels a lot more planted now in the corners instead of having the excessive body roll. Now there is still some roll, but it just feels so much better! :banana:

Good to hear, that is what I am going for, I have the rear on the way. But I dont think I am goin to update the front, how was handleing improved with just the rear?

^You live in Clayton, I am in Raleigh :thmsup:

Good to hear, that is what I am going for, I have the rear on the way. But I dont think I am goin to update the front, how was handleing improved with just the rear?

^You live in Clayton, I am in Raleigh :thmsup:


With the rear only (I installed it a week before I installed the front), The rear was more planted but the front end still had about the same amount of body roll (lett roll in the rear). I was able to take some corners around 5 mph faster. When I added the front, it just all came together! Now those same corners I can take at 10 mph or more over the stock set-up.

Yep, Clayton. Been there since 1984. :yes:

Good to hear, that is what I am going for, I have the rear on the way. But I dont think I am goin to update the front, how was handleing improved with just the rear?

^You live in Clayton, I am in Raleigh :thmsup:

If you don't plan on upgrading the front then I would stick with the 17mm over the 20mm. I upgraded just the rear first to the 20mm and it felt great, until I entered a corner a little too hot while doing my weekly canyon drive up to drop my kids off with my parents. Part way through the turn I could feel that I was too hot and low and behold the rear end was trying to meet the front. Thankfully I know the road well and was able to keep it to a nice drift around the corner. After upgrading the front bar and adding the V6 strut brace as well I don't have that particular problem anymore.

Now my only problem is that I trade cars with the wife on the weekends and come Monday morning when I get back in the Accord after driving the MINI for the weekend I am always let down by the handling. I know I'm basically going form a go-kart to a mid-sized sedan, but it's still depressing. :boohoo:

With the rear only (I installed it a week before I installed the front), The rear was more planted but the front end still had about the same amount of body roll (lett roll in the rear). I was able to take some corners around 5 mph faster. When I added the front, it just all came together! Now those same corners I can take at 10 mph or more over the stock set-up.

Yep, Clayton. Been there since 1984. :yes:

Cool I may upgrade the front eventually, I dont like the idea of anyone messing with the sub frame assembly if there is no need.

If you don't plan on upgrading the front then I would stick with the 17mm over the 20mm. I upgraded just the rear first to the 20mm and it felt great, until I entered a corner a little too hot while doing my weekly canyon drive up to drop my kids off with my parents. Part way through the turn I could feel that I was too hot and low and behold the rear end was trying to meet the front. Thankfully I know the road well and was able to keep it to a nice drift around the corner. After upgrading the front bar and adding the V6 strut brace as well I don't have that particular problem anymore.

Well I have the V6 and the strut bar is standard so I am hoping with that, the front is sufficient without upgrading the sway bar. Just have to install the rear and drive it to see for myself I suppose, just like hearing others opinions.

I have to drive through the mountains of VA and WV on a regular basis to see my GF, so I will have ample time to test the mods out to get a good feel!

Check out acuraparts247.com & acuraautomotiveparts.org for part info and price. If you can't find the part numbers you need there, just swing by the local Acura dealer's parts counter and ask.
If you can wait till Monday, I'll post the part numbers for 2K7 Acura TL-S 27mm (solid) front (The 2K6 TL-S front sway bar is also 27mm, but it's hollow.)and 20mm rear sway bars plus the bushings & brackets. I can't do it tonight because I'm hedding out of town right after work. Sorry!

I searched another forum that I'm a member of and found the info that I had posted there for the sway bars. So here it is!

From a 2K7 Acura TL-S

51300-SEP-A21 "SPRING, FR. STABILIZER" (27MM SOLID FRONT SWAY BAR)
51308-SDA-A00 "BRACKET, FR.STABILIZER" (You need2 of these)
51306-SEP-A01 "BUSH, FR.STABILIZER HOLDER" (You need 2 of these)

52300-SEP-A21 "SPRING, RR. STABILIZER (20MM REAR SWAY BAR)
5208-S3M-A00 "HOLDER, STABILIZER BUSH (You need 2 of these)
52306-SEP-A11 "BUSH, RR. STABILIZER HOLDER"(You need 2 of these)

Thanks Greg for your post. After a year and few months, I finally got the information I need to atleast know which mm sway bar I *should* get. If I could find out the parts I need besides the bar like the bushings and from what company etc et al., I would get it right now. The Acura dealer has to have the money up front before they can order the bar and so I have to have all my ducks lined up real good. Where and from who should I get the bushings and grease. You can't count on the dealer to stock anything and that's the reason I have not done this upgrade allready. :thmsup:

Glad it helped.

Almost all of this is listed in the FAQ that Benji put up as a sticky over a year ago. Also somewhere in this section is my post of upgrading my suspension that is set out to see what each stage does as it is built up. Of course it sort of got stalled out after I started as I got distracted with audio mods. :dunno:


Here's the link to my post:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6642


And here's the link to the FAQ:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5095

You'll find tons of info in the FAQ on where to order what and from whom.

It would likely transmit more vibration to the subframe, moreso than the rubber bushings.

Unless you have super-human senses or are constantly in a hard turn, I doubt that you would notice any change in ride comfort from adding poly bushings.

The TL 6spd has a bigger front bar as well as a bigger rear bar. It will have less body roll than the accord, though it will do it safely as the traction is decreased more in the front as well as in the rear rather than in the rear alone. If you intend to upgrade your front bar, then I doubt you would have any issues with traction when you upgraded the rear. However, not upgrading the front and upgrading the rear to 20mm+ just because it's easier is going to leave your car in a ditch one slippery day.

As far as the 20mm bar goes, unless you intend on upgrading your front bar you are most likely going to be in for a rude awakening when you have to pull some emergency maneuver to avoid a car (like others have said). The problem will probably hit you when you are traveling at a higher speed where it will be pretty much impossible to control. It's relatively easy to control and manage oversteer when you are going 30-40ish, but when you are going 70 on the highway and you have to take a high-speed turn to follow the highway or turn abruptly to avoid a car, you are very likely to spin (also, as others have said). Sure it feels better and there is less body roll, but if you pay attention you will notice that nearly all of this increased stiffness in turns is coming from the rear of the car. This problem is more than likely made much worse if you upgrade the suspension due to the fact that most springs available for our cars lower the front of the car more than the rear, increasing weight supported by the front wheels, decreasing understeer tendency. I have a 17mm bar, and h-techs. I have koni sp3's in the rear (fronts got messed up, have to have them modified) set to sit -7mm lower than the stock strut height. The sway-bar upgrade was one of the first upgrades that I did to my car and I got used to it before I did the springs and shocks. With the stock springs/shocks there was a still such a huge tendency towards understeer that I couldn't imagine my rear end ever sliding out. With different shocks and springs all around I could make the rear end slide a lot more very easily (though my shocks were rebound adjustable, so my settings played a big role). Now that I have changed the front struts back to stock there is more of a tendency towards understeer (the stock 6spd struts are stiffer than I initially thought). I know all of terminology is relative, but I was mainly trying to explain that sway bars are not the only things that impact over/understeer.

I searched another forum that I'm a member of and found the info that I had posted there for the sway bars. So here it is!

From a 2K7 Acura TL-S

51300-SEP-A21 "SPRING, FR. STABILIZER" (27MM SOLID FRONT SWAY BAR)
51308-SDA-A00 "BRACKET, FR.STABILIZER" (You need2 of these)
51306-SEP-A01 "BUSH, FR.STABILIZER HOLDER" (You need 2 of these)

52300-SEP-A21 "SPRING, RR. STABILIZER (20MM REAR SWAY BAR)
5208-S3M-A00 "HOLDER, STABILIZER BUSH (You need 2 of these)
52306-SEP-A11 "BUSH, RR. STABILIZER HOLDER"(You need 2 of these)
I wonder why they changed the part number for the 2007 20mm bar. But we're sure that it fits the Accord right? Before I add it to the FAQ

Check out acuraparts247.com & acuraautomotiveparts.org for part info and price. If you can't find the part numbers you need there, just swing by the local Acura dealer's parts counter and ask.
If you can wait till Monday, I'll post the part numbers for 2K7 Acura TL-S 27mm (solid) front (The 2K6 TL-S front sway bar is also 27mm, but it's hollow.)and 20mm rear sway bars plus the bushings & brackets. I can't do it tonight because I'm hedding out of town right after work. Sorry!
Acuraparts247.com's been down for the past three days or more...

BTW, the part numbers are also in the 7th gen FAQ (See my sig. :wave: )

Should I get the 20mm off the 2007 TL-S that the Pope posted above or should I go with the 17mm you suggested? The thing is, I'm not sure if I'll be going so fast around 90 degree turns that the back end will swing out and I will be drifting around turn often but is it "too eazy" to do this with the 20mm for just about every turn to where you don't have control or do you really have to be almost racing around corners to do this.

Also, is there any danger if I am going like read fast (80 to 120 mph) on non-90 degree turns like curves on a freeway/highway or loops on a highway where you could lose control if you're going too fast?

The 20mm from the TL-S sounds most intriguing but I don't want a dangerous situation with just regular driving, both 90 degree turns and just regular curves on the road going real fast.

Also, will I have to get an alignment with the 20mm TL-S? I might be willing to settle for the 17mm if it is markedly safer and/or if the 20mm will interfere with my suspension/alignment.

I'd say that you will only notice the rear end break loose in very spirited driving and high speed emergency manuvers. That's part fo the problem, 95% of the time it'll feel great and more controlled. It's that last 5% of the time that can be the problem. :yes:

Neitehr will do anything to interfere with the suspension/alignment. It'll boil down to what you are comfortable with in terms of safety and performance enhancement.

Wasn't that helpful. :nuts:

Bigger is not always better. If you go ask the people at v6 performance.net you will get very different answers than you get here. Of course, you will also hear a lot more about people getting into accidents, or almost getting into accidents because their rear-end slipped out. Keep in mind that your tires will also play a role here. If you are bad about rotating your tires and your fronts are worn a lot more than your rears, this will also influence front traction relative to the rear. I have recently rotated my snow tires after not rotating them all winter and my rear slips a little more easily in snowy conditions. Of course, most tires don't have the piss poor treadware that my snows have, but you get the idea. Though, I still wouldn't base my decision on the condition of my tires. Another option is the 19mm CL-S bar. This won't be too much different than the 20mm bar, but it is a little more appropriate imo with the stock front bar (though still might be overkill and hardly different than the 20mm bar). I've been looking for one of these, however haven't been able to find one. There is also an adjustable bar made by "progress" that some people have used, though I know very little about this.

I have a 03 accord lx...4 cylinder sedan..what year model acura tl do I ask for when I call to order these bars? I need the 20mm rear sway or the 19 rear sway off the CL-s, also the 27mm front..and the Upper strut bar I guess is from the TL-s as well..someone please let me know what year or part number I need to order so I can complete my suspension..by the way Im dropped on Neuspeed race..2.2f 2.0r with kyb gr2 shocks..ANYONE?

7th gen faq has this info. You can pull the bar part numbers off of acura parts websites. Acuraparts247 is a good oen, though it is down. If you are going to upgrade the front bar then you will be safe to get the 20mm rear bar, or maybe even the 22mm bar that some company sells, though it is much more expensive. Also, for some reason, the cl-s bar is much more expensive than the 6spd tl bar is.

im going to get the 27mm front and the 20 mm rear at the same time..so I need to get what year model TL bar? is it the TL-s sways I need?

I believe that it is the bar for the 04+ 6spd TL's. Why the manuals have bigger bars than the auto I do not know. This topic has been covered in great, great detail a number of times. Search is your friend.

You need the sway bars from the 04-up TL-S if you want the 20 & 27mm bars and the strut bar is from the 03-up Accord V-6 coupe, part numbers are listed in the FAQ in this section of the forum.

Just remember if you are doing the front sway bar that it is a pain in the butt. You have to drop the front subframe to get access to it and should replace the bolts per the manual when you do this. Princess has listed the approprate pages on the board.

Here's the link:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6568

i have read over every single topic in the faq's by the way..so dont go assuming that I didnt read..I read plenty..enough to realize that I will just be getting a 17mm bar, to go with my neuspeed race drop..and already ordered the neuspeed upper strut tie bar..just because these are my first few post here doesnt mean Im new to this..I post quite often on 6thgenaccord.com so boo to you smartass :thumbsdow

I wonder why they changed the part number for the 2007 20mm bar. But we're sure that it fits the Accord right? Before I add it to the FAQ

Not sure why the 20mm sway bar's part number changed. :dunno: But the part numbers that I posted are the parts that I purchased and installed. :thmsup:

FYI ... The 2k7 TL-S 27mm Front sway bar (51300-SEP-A21) is solid. The 2k6 TL-S 27mm Front sway bay (51300-SEP-A01) is hollow. They use the same bushings and brackets.

All of these parts will fit Gen 7 Accords. (2k3 - 2k7)