'96 Accord maintenance issues

[tenner14]

my precious auto: '96 honda accord Ex v6 114K miles

Hi again! it's been awhile. Just want to thank all of you (esp. princess!) for help in the past.....You've been incredible.

I do have some new questions! :confused:

Just took my car in to a mechanic that specializes in Hondas. Got the EGR valve cleanout done and Honda has told me they will reimburse me...it's only $100 but hey...it's cabbage in my pocket
Also the check engine light has been on solid for 2 months (EGR) but just started BLINKING on and off and then back to "solid on" for the past 2 weeks...the tech mentioned sev things but could someone advise as to what that is so i can make sure the correct maintenance is done?

oh, there's more :bawling:

I have this huge list of things (results from the free 20pt inspection they did)....i'll have to get back w/ ya on that! don't have it w/ me at the moment (duh...hello idiot)

anyhow, thanks so much!
kris

[princess]

Any tech at a honda dealer can hook it up to the tool (pgm) that reads the codes & it will tell them exactly why the "check engine" light is coming on. Most of the time it's not guess work. The codes are pretty specific when there's other symptoms too.

The light is just to tell you there's something not quite right. It can come on with a forgotten gas cap or numerous other things. Getting the code will tell them where to look.

[benjamming]

AutoZone & I believe O'Reilly's will pull the codes for you free.

[princess]

My prince said that year/model has had a problem with a sticky egr control solenoid. Often they check out OK for the tech. even when they're going out. The part is pretty cheap & easy to install, so it might be worth a try!

Good luck!

[tenner14]

Thank you for the info! I will see about all that! I really appreciate your help!

well, here's the list of things that their 20 pt inspection returned:

1. Trans. fluid "burned"...needs replacing (I had it flushed at 90K and the car has only 114K now)
2. Low coolant--assuming i can do this myself
3. 3 oil leaks: valve cover (which I have had fixed before at a charge of $100), pan gasket, and side cover gasket
4. battery cables--corrosion (what's the best way to keep these clean?)
5. Fr. AXELS-dry/cracked. they said I really need this done w/in a month?
6. 2 rear tires worn (no-brainer, but I have 6 mo old tires on front. Cobra brand but i can't remember specs other than they're "normal" for my car....purchased and installed at a BP station only b/c i was in dire need and had no time to go elsewhere and get better ones.....what would you recommend for the back tires? Should you always get similar ones to match? Is it ok to mix performances? I would think not but just making sure.)

Basically, i'd like to see what you have to say on these items. which are crucial to fix, which ones are just pains that i can deal with (like oil leaks---if they're really slow leaks, is it crucial to fix or can i just monitor oil level?)

Thanks again so much!

kris:D

[princess]

1. tranny fluid: nearly always smells "burned" when used, but having 24K on it I'd have it changed. Honda used to recommend replacing it every 30K as part of the major service.

2. low coolant: low in the radiator or low in the overflow bucket? If it's not leaking, then just add some to the bucket & don't worry about it. If you start to see a pattern of disappearing coolant, then it's worth checking it out. Coolant should be 50/50 water for most areas & new stuff put in at 2 year intervals.

3. oil leaks: in general as long as you check it often & keep it full it should be fine. The valve cover gasket is normally replaced every 15K on the "old" system of maintaince, when the valves are adjusted. It should never be reused. Oil pans can start leaking over time & can be concidered normal wear. I don't know what they mean by a side cover gasket! If it's the driver's side then there's seals in there that could be brittle. Most dealers would replace them during the timing belt change at 90K.

4. Battery cables: corrosion happens. You can clean them by either buying a product for that or using some baking soda & water. YOU MUST NOT GET ANY ON THE CAP AREA! It will kill the battery. Since most have the sealed, you never add water tops now....it shouldn't be a problem.

5. Axel (CV) boots cracking are a normal wear item. If they get split then dust, sand, salt will damage the teeth in the axel. This would be my priority. Even rebuilt axles aren't cheap! The sign of it being too late is a clicking on sharp turns.

6. tires: we all have our favorite brands. It's best to match them up. Most people I know buy their at Costco. The softer the tire the better it hugs the road, but the faster it wears.

I'm pretty sure you'll get other's input that would have more info on the tires than I have....and things I didn't think of for the other questions.....:)

Happy driving!!

[benjamming]

#4) Even "maintenance free" will need checking from time to time. Only add distilled water to your battery. A link for a product that is made for this: http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=11353 .

[princess]

See, I knew there'd be more info!!! Aren't these guys great????!!!:D

[tenner14]

and I just KNEW I could count on you! Thanks princess for all the info and Ben for the info on batt.term. spray!...there aren't words to describe how much I appreciate you!

and duh, i have a costco membership! what luck.

thanks again:D

[princess]

After talking to my prince.... that year & model of V6 had hydaulic valves, so they weren't adjustable. So the valve cover gasket would NOT be replaced at 15K services. Also he knew what that side gasket thing is & said on that year/model it does have a tendancy to need replacement from leaking.

Although the oil leaks are a lower priority if you keep the level up, they do sound like the shop you took it to were wise to inform you.

Tranny fluid: he also said that his dealer replaces the fluid at 15K intervals on automatics. (It used to be at 30K)

I'd top off the coolant, clean the battery, make an appt. for the boots, have the tranny fluid changed, buy the tires then have the oil leaks fixed. Then scrub the driveway!!;)

[tenner14]

now that's what I really like! Step by step instructions and a wealth of knowledge! Oh and I don't have to worry about scrubbing the driveway b/c i'm in an apt right now! whoo hoo one less thing to do! With all those oil leaks, boy would THAT be a nasty job!

I'm printing this whole thing out and keeping it for ref!

Bless you and your prince!!!:)

[tenner14]

:bawling:

Here's the estimate from the mechanic:

Transmission Flush (fluid burned) $110.00
Timing belt service including waterpump $620.00
Bypass Waterpipe leaking - (replace gasket)- $220
Valve cover and side plate gaskets leaking - $320
Oil pan gasket leaking $175
Replace wiper blades $22

Can you look at this and give me a second opinion from what you can tell and from what you know? (i mean, i know you can't look at my car but....) You know any help or advice is appreciated. Especially since this is $1500 worth of stuff:(

My biggest concern is the fact that I had my timing belt and water pump replaced at 85-90K miles!! :eek: I'm contacting them about it.

Also, so they gave me the list on the phone a few days ago and told me about the AXELs but it's not in this estimate....argh, needless to say, this is all a bit frustrating.

I'm contacting the mech. today but just wanted to get your advice when you get the chance! Oh, and i know i can get wiper blades cheaper at Autozone or somewhere.

THANK YOU:):):)

[princess]

I doubt if you need the timing belt done, if that was all done at 90K. It wouldn't be due until 180K. You also don't need the tranny flushed, just the fluid changed. The other stuff sounds needed.

I would do the axel boots first, then next month have the leaks all done (gaskets & pipe), & try to see if they'll just drain & refill the tranny with one of those. Or you could deal with the oil leaks one time & the coolant leak another month.

Just be sure to keep an eye on the levels!

Did they tell you WHY they were recommending the timing belt & water pump? Some independent shops don't do the water pump with the timing belt & if they noticed a small leak from the water pump, it may have been the reason. If they are just assuming, because of the mileage that it hasn't been done.....let them know it was.

Hope this helps!!

[benjamming]

Demand that they only drain & refill the transmission fluid. $110!!! :censored: Changing the transmission fluid is almost as easy as putting gas in your car for goodness sake. Buy the fluid yourself & give it to them if you just don't want to fool with changing it yourself.

[princess]

:yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

[tenner14]

thanks for the advice! I did get the shop to explain some things to me, thankfully!

I agree w/ the tranny fluid change not flush...the estimate from the shop comes from a former Honda technician now working for an independent company...this guy is brand new to the "out-of-the-dealership" realm, so I'm thinking that when he inspected my car, he scrutinized it to the point of reporting everything that was even a tiny bit off--normal wear and tear......which is all good to know, but what i want to know is what the major things are....so anyhow....

his argument for the tranny flush was that it most likely hasn't ever been done and explained that the benefit is starting your car fresh again as far as tranny goes.....where a flush pumps 16qts thru, a change drains and fills only 2.5 qts, and over 2 qts of the old fluid are left sitting in the torque converter. what do you think? i can definitely smell burned fluid everytime i get out of the car. poor baby....ha

timing belt/water pump is disregarded since i had it done previously....they just didn't know and said there's no way to tell...they have to ask the customer.

oil leaks can wait--they're minor....coolant leak ("bypass waterpipe leak") can wait and oil/coolant be monitored/filled when necessary. phew.

AXELS CV boots....ex-honda tech said Honda replaces the whole component when just the rubber of the boots is dry/cracked. However, the guy over him at this new place said that you can wait til the AXELs need to be replaced....told me that signs to replace will be leaking greese, CV boots torn open, or the worst case scenario---clicking sound when hard turning.

wow, this is a ton! But i'm in better spirits knowing that lots of these things are semi-norrmal for my old lovely '96 and are minor....however i'll probably get the work done progressively....

let me know what you think and as always, THANK YOU:)

:D

[tenner14]

btw princess, i saw the pics of tink and belle and WOW your cars are MAGNIFICENT!!! i think the names are cute:)

[princess]

The tranny flush wouldn't hurt it, it's up to you if you want to invest that much. The burnt smell when you get out is probably oil leaking onto hot parts. You wouldn't smell the tranny fluid unless it's leaking too. It's a closed system & you'd smell it if it's getting out or if you sniff the dipstick thing.

I've never heard of waiting until you mess up your axels to replace the boots!?! (In over 25 years of married to a tech) Most just replace the boots BEFORE you chew up the axels! If you wait, you'll quadruple the cost! So I'm in FULL DISAGREEMENT with waiting. Yes, it's a hassle for the tech due the labor is the same....but why pay for an axel when you don't need one?? You may NEVER need one if the boots are replaced as needed! We've put over 300K on Hondas & never replaced an axel because of taking care of brittle boots before they get the crap in them that chews up the axel.

It's like having bald tires & waiting until you have a flat to replace it. If your boots are brittle they WILL crack, when they do the grease inside will come out & dust, dirt & sand will get in. That will act like sandpaper & grind down the gear teeth in a fairly short time. Axels "go out" because they get dirt in them. If that happens you have 2 choices: to get a "rebuilt" axel or a new one. They aren't cheap! Easily $300-$400 each for new ones. Simply keep the dirt out by having new boots put on & they can go forever.

Pointing out the brittle boots is a good thing, talking you into waiting until they need axels isn't!

Keep a close eye on those oil & coolant levels until you can get them fixed! I'd make it a weekly ritual!

Good luck!
:)

[princess]

Thanks for the compliments on the cars!

We're Disney fans.....big time..... Belle got her name form the sound the Navi makes before speaking. Bong! Like on an airplane. Tink just has that spoiled sassy personality! (She's my hero!) My prince says it's becasue I relate....:rolleyes:

We've owned many Hondas over the years & have never loved ones more than these!

[benjamming]

The tranny flush or drain question is debated a lot. Transmission fluid has a lot of detergents in it. If you put all new transmission fluid in there at once you may flush up more than you flush out. Meaning that the actual process in flushing may not harm it (if they don't pressurize it), but all that new tranmission fluid may break up some "crud" after it has run for a while. This could in create blockage. Therefore, you have flushed up trouble & not flushed it out. I would recommend simply draining the transmission fluid now, 5k later, & maybe even 5k after that.

[BenjiBoy650]

I agree replace the boots now. It's a stupid idea to wait until the axle is shot because then you'll be looking at major money. I think the tranny flush should be done though. It's not that expensive and it's just plain preventive maintenance. Wait'll you hear about the Odyssey tranny, triple change of fluid at 45K :) Replace wiper blades = $22? Can it wait? Honda gives out free wiper blades around October during customer appreciation month. At worst, go to Costco they sell $5 refills.

[Inspector1]

Replacing boots requires same labor as replacing complete shaft so price diff is for parts... It's ok to replace boots as long as tech doing job cleans,inspects and regreases joint before renewing boot.. Princess doesn't have to worry about that issue with her personal Master Tech(Prince )...
Like anything rubber on car if you don't clean and apply some kind of conditioner they will dry out and crack.....

Wiper refills can be purchased @ dealer for 6 bucks so you are paying 16 to have someone install....

Benjamming's point on trans serv is very good and honest!!

My 96 had 180k with no services!! BUT that's me and it was showing signs of slight shudder into OD shift... It didn't bother me because feathering fuel at that shift point would prevent problem...
I did add stabilizer @ about 100k
Sometimes your better off with tranny's to leave alone after passing a certain point.. The clutch packs don't like to have abrasive removed by HI Detergent ATF and you can kill a trans just by servicing....

Oil leaks .. Degrease engine really well and try and pinpoint after driving a couple of day's ... If shop didn't do that......
You may not have as many as their quoting......

Good Luck
I1
:)

[tenner14]

thanks everyone!!!
Interesting info on tranny flush vs change...i was clueless.

also i probably would have checked fluids every month so i'm glad you told me weekly is good til i get them fixed.

Are those estimate quotes really high? should i look for another place that can do it cheaper? seems expensive to fix 3 small oil leaks (Valve cover, side plate, and oil pan gaskets) and coolant leak (replace gasket on waterpipe) for $715. :eek:

Is it ok to just purchase wiper blades at an auto parts store instead of the dealer?

What do you think about MAACO as far as repainting the entire car goes? (mine's black and is looking awful).....I've been considering.

you sold me, i'm getting new boots and will make sure the tech makes all proper prep before installation! thanks for setting me straight!

Do you recommend me adding stabilizer? What is that?

Thank you so much for all the expertise!!!!!!!!:):)
kris

[Inspector1]

It all depends on wiper blade frames....
If they are not original then go to parts store and buy refills to fit frames or buy new frame/blade combo...
refills=rubber only
frames/refills=complete assy that hooks onto arm...

Honda refills work great ..10 years in Honda's and nothing but refills..... see wiper poll.......bottom of forum...

OE refills don't come with metal splines in rubber, so you will have to remove from refills in car and install on new refills before installing in blade frame.....
Check to see if you have spline in current wipers before going OE.
If they have been changed out previously w/aftermarket you will have to by frame/blade assy. from Honda to switch back:bawling:

Hope this helps
I1:)

[Inspector1]

Here's photo..

[tenner14]

thanks, ha, i'm not quite sure if my frames are the orig. from Honda. I'm thinking probably not.

So you recommend me buying complete frame/blade assy from Honda? How much does that usually run and can I get it from a distributor?

Maybe I should get the tech at the shop to put a Honda frame/blade assy on if he sees that my current ones aren't honda parts? they may have them in stock since they specialize in Hondas.

then after that, I need to keep buying refills from Honda? how often usually?

ok, ok, i know, "read your owner's manual". it's just so easy and nice to ask:blush:

thanks so much!!!!!:)

[princess]

I1, I liked how you had me in blue & prince in red.....our Honda colors!!

It takes years for the new boots to crack even if they aren't treated. I wouldn't worry about it. You can treat them with tire stuff after they're on, I guess. I never have.

The standard at the dealer is replace the boots only, unless the axel is bad. I checked to make sure they didn't change this on me.

T14, What's going on with your paint? Is the clear looking like leposy or just dull. If it's dull, spend a weekend cleaning & polishing it. There's many products that can bring back luster. If it's not a metal flake, then even a couple of coats of wax will make an amazing diference. If it's metal flake then it would require more effort, but you can still make it nicer.

The prince agreed with the antiflushing, but often changing the tranny fluid. If there's been many miles on the fluid in it, then changing it every 5K would likely prevent problems down the road. When they flush at work, it due to an exsisting problem & that's the first step to clearing it. (They use 12 qts.) It's never done as simple maintaince. We change ours at 5K as normal maintaince
The older ones could handle more neglect than the new ones.

I knew this bunch could get answers for you!!

[Inspector1]

Blade changes are personal preference..... See the poll for more detail....... it's not in the manual!
Honda Frames are probably 25 bucks for set guessing......

You can stick with aftermarket to save some money....

I figured you would like that Princess
Hehe......

I1:)

[Inspector1]

Oh.... paint...... Maaco...NO!NO!NO!NO!NO!NO!!!!!!! ( I can spot their paint jobs 25 feet away)

For the 500 you spend you can have detail shop do twice (interior and exterior)and you still have your Factory paint......

You will never get a Hi quality paint job for under 3000-5000
I don't care what body shops say they can NEVER replicate factory paint!!! Unless you pay 10k or more for a frame off job.....
Basically gut whole body and bake like factory @300 deg for 20-30minutes...... That means no rubber,cloth,carpet,undercoat,sound deadener, wiring etc... see where I'm going??? Major Labor cost!!!!!!!

Good Luck
I1:)

[benjamming]

I agree with I1 on the paint issue. Paint is relatively cheap. The labor cost is what really gets you. The main difference in the prices that people are quoted is prep work.

[tenner14]

thanks for the advice on boots, tranny, wipers and paint!!!

I was thinking the $500 Maaco deal can't possibly be a good job and now i understand a little more why.

My whole car's black paint is dull but the real problem is the growing white splotches on the hood. they are so UGLY. When you look closely, they are tiny white lines/deep scratches or marks in the paint, grouped together. maybe i can take a picture and let you see it.

I know I can probably make the rest of the car look better myself, but what about my hood problems?

What do you recommend I do about the hood and the rest of the car? What's the best yet cheapest way to make it shine & look like new again?There are SO many products out there.

thanks!!
ks

[benjamming]

I get all my car care products from http://www.carcareonline.com/

[Inspector1]

Here's another good link......

http://www.properautocare.com/index.html


I1:)

Check here also...

http://www.autopia.org/index.php

[tenner14]

thanks, i see on those sites that i can get help on exactly which product will work best on my problem hood areas. i'll still try to put a pic on here so i can ask you experts what you think:) thanks!!