6Th Gen I-4 Automatic Transmission Fluid Change DIY

I know this is very easy to do, but I could not find a DIY for this process online. I knew what to look for, but I wanted to make something that my friend could use when he wants to change this fluid on his own. I helped him change it this past week and while doing it, I decided to take some pictures to help others with this money saving process.

Tools/Materials Needed:
3/8” Socket Wrench
3 Quarts Honda ATF (This must be Honda Fluid)
1 Crush Washer (Honda Dealer)
Some Rags
Long Funnel
3/8” Torque Wrench

Step 1:
Either jack the car up, put it on ramps, or if you’re as lucky as I am, go somewhere that has a nice lift.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/stevencrosbie/Honda%20Tranny%20Oil%20Change/DSC00527.jpg

This view is standing behind the tranny and looking towards the front of the car. You will see a series of bolts on the right side of the tranny.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/stevencrosbie/Honda%20Tranny%20Oil%20Change/DSC00528.jpg

As you can see, it’s the second to last one. This bolt is unique because it doesn’t have a head on it. Instead, there is a square hole where you will put the socket wrench into. You do not need any sockets for this process.

Loosen the bolt and take it out. WORD OF CAUION!!! This fluid should be changed when the tranny is warm/hot. This fluid is very hot and it’s not going to come out very nice. It is going to shoot out and hit the frame of the car. Either right something up to deflect the fluid down, or make sure you have a plan to catch all of the fluid that is going to splash around

Now, before you put the drain plug back in. Take a look at the end of it. There is a magnet that will catch the little metal filings. If they are very smile and fine, then your tranny is ok. If you see large chunks, you may be seeing a new tranny replacement soon.

Wipe that off, put on a new washer (use a NEW washer) and replace the drain plug. This is a cast aluminum oil pan, so make sure you use a torque wrench. You need to torque it to 37 ft/lbs of torque.

Lower the car and open the hood. As you are standing looking towards the rear of the car, you will see a yellow dipstick. This is located at the bottom/left side of the engine bay.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/stevencrosbie/Honda%20Tranny%20Oil%20Change/DSC00530.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/stevencrosbie/Honda%20Tranny%20Oil%20Change/DSC00529.jpg

This is where you check and refill the tranny oil. Get your long funnel and replace the fluid w/ the 3 quarts of Honda ATF.

Make sure to pour slowly as the fluid takes a second to get into the tranny.

Once you are done, check to see that the tranny is actually full.

Now you are done.

I recommended to my friend to change this fluid every 20k. It really doesn’t matter. I told him to change it often b/c this change only does about half of the fluid in the tranny.

Great write up!! :thmsup:

It pretty much applies to the V6 also except the tranny/ AT dipstick tube is on the driver's side. You'll be amazed at how much gunk is attached to the magnetic drain plug the first time you do the drain/fill. :eek:

Just changed mine at 30k. The fluid didn't look bad but the magnet was covered. I think I'm going to do the change every 10k from now on.

My tranny has a fill plug? :dunno:

You actually can drain/refill without lifting the front of the car. Just lay on the ground and you can reach the drain plug and there's enough clearance to place a drain pan under there.

True...but the base has a lift and I'm lazy.... :lmao: :lmao:

I have done the tranny fluid change this weekend, everything worked great and as described on this topic, I put 3 quarts of fresh Honda ATF, but this morning I checked the dipstick twice and it seems it's over the max level though, what do you recommend?

Did you run it as required? I think it's 15 minutes, then check it.... it's been posted somewhere here....

I'd leave it alone.

I would flush it again and try to get it to the right level. You get fresher fluid in there and you get the fluid to the right level :thmsup:

Princess, I did the check with cold engine on my garage before starting the engine, do you mean I have to test the fluid at normal operation temp?
Or did you mean I should have run the car before changing the fluid? If so I did it, the fluid was hot when it was drained.

I think she is trying to say check the level when engine is warm, or tranny is warm.

Princess, I would like to know when changing the ATF in a 7th gen, when should the ATF filter should be replaced?

JSM, it actually takes only 2.5 liters(~quarts) and not 3, hence showing overfill. Pls keep in mind that it does not change the fluid but only refreshs it. The tranny requires approximately 12 liters but only 2.5 can be dropped with the method desribed in this thread. Otherwise, a tranny flush must be performed.

jag

checking the level:

NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission.

Park the vehicle on the level ground.

Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), and turn the engine off. Do not allow the engine to warm up more than the radiator fan comes on twice.

NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds after turning the engine off. Higher fluid level may be indicated if the radiator fan comes on twice or more.

Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A) from the dipstick guide tube, and wipe it with a clean cloth.

Insert the dipstick aligning the cap (B) with the guide tab (C).

Remove the dipstick (A) and check the fluid level. It should be between upper mark (B) and lower mark (C).

If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, hose and line joints. If a problem is found, fix it before filling the transmission.

NOTE: If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is below the lower mark:

The transmission damage will result.

Vehicle does not move in any gear.

Vehicle accelerates poorly, and flares when starting off in the D and R positions.

Vibration results from created by the engine at idle.

If the level is above the upper mark, drain the ATF to proper level.

NOTE: If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is above the upper mark, vehicle moves in the N position, and shifting malfunction will occur.

If necessary fill the transmission through the dipstick guide tube opening (A) to bring the fluid level up to about midway between the upper mark and lower mark of the dipstick with the ATF. Do not fill the fluid to excess of the upper mark. Always use Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality.

Insert the dipstick back into the dipstick guide tube aligning the cap with the guide tab on the guide tube.

*******************************

On the filter: I don't think there really is a recommended time frame from Honda. We do ours at 15K now. He WAS going to add an inline filter to mine, but since the oil jet kit was added he's actually seen very few failures & decided not to bother.

We change the ATF at 5K. More than probably needed, but the 6th gens failure was caused by clogs, the 7th gens failure by LACK of oil where it was needed on 2nd gear. We'd made the decision to change way often BEFORE they knew what the 7th gens were doing. He may relax about how often now. I'm not sure. I'm coming upon 20K now, so I'll see soon! :D I'll let you know if he continues this pattern. :dunno:

ATF fluid levels: (7th gen)

L4:

Automatic transmission fluid
Capacity

Use Honda ATF-Z1
Fluid change
2.9 L (3.0 US qt)

Overhaul
6.5 L (6.9 US qt)

V6:

Automatic transmission fluid
Capacity

Use Honda ATF-Z1
Fluid change
3.0 L (3.2 US qt)

Overhaul
7.0 L (7.4 US qt)

Thank you princess,
When i took my car in for an ATF change a while back, they do not specify if they have changed the filter (The I4 already has an inline filter), now, if i take it in for another ATF change, how will they determine if the filter requires a new one?
Maybe I should attempt to change it myself, but time is one thing I don't have much of.

The filter is supposed to last the lifetime of the trans as far as I know?

OK, thanks all for the feedback, specially Princess :thmsup: I will check it again with warm engine and I'll see, in case it shows still overfilled I will loose the drain plug a bit and will drain half a qt.
Julian

benji, really? hmm.. well.. if i decide to change it, i'll be sure to let you guys know..
actually wait, you all have V6's.. =( hehe

UPDATE:
Today when I parked my car at work, I did the tranny fluid check after turning the engine off (waited 1 min) and the dipstick was at full mark, not higher, then I assume the level is ok. Also the fluid showed pretty clean.
Thank you all again, :thmsup:

I noticed when doing my last oil change that my coolant was on the low mark and so was my trans fluid. I think it was because when I got my car it was a dealer trade and they didn't really do much to it before I took delivery.

Anyways, I've been meaning to stop by the dealer and get some ATF fluid and premixed coolant ever since then and last night I finally made it up there to get some goodies.

I bought 4 quarts of Honda's ATF-Z1, a gallon of premix type 2 long life coolant, 2 trans plug crush washers, and 4 oil plug crush washers.

This morning I followed this write up and did a drain and fill of the trans fluid and topped off the coolant. I couldn't believe how easy Honda has made it to drain the tranny fluid. My car just under 12K miles on it and the fluid I put in it was much cleaner then what I drained. There wasn't very much crud on the magnet on the plug but I think I'm going to make a point of changing this once a year.

Thanks for the write up steven :thmsup:

Glad it helped Jermy. I'd much rather see people doing their own work. It gives you a sense of ownership, control, and saves you money. :yes:

hi,
I checked my engine oil dipstick on the used car I just bought and it seems I have waaay to much engine oil! See where the oil residue reaches? Isn't that way too high (red arrow)? I did wipe it clean before reinserting to measure the level.

Or is the engine oil level at the blue arrow? In that case, I have way too little :dunno: The second pic is a close up (sorry about the size). Is the colour okay or do I need an oil change?

The upper most hole is the "full" mark, right?
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/5274/engineoilfq9.th.jpg (http://img296.imageshack.us/my.php?image=engineoilfq9.jpg)

http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/1263/engineoilcloseupqq1.th.jpg (http://img129.imageshack.us/my.php?image=engineoilcloseupqq1.jpg)


I checked the ATF as well...can someone explain how to read the ATF levels? should be between the |XXX| marking right? is the colour of the ATF okay or does that need to be replaced?
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/4992/atfreadingcf9.th.jpg (http://img133.imageshack.us/my.php?image=atfreadingcf9.jpg)

I know, I know...thats a lot of questions but I know how helpful you people are :thmsup:

engine oil: top dot is full, bottom dot is a quart low. Make sure the car is level. Start, then let it sit off for a few minutes....then check.


In the picture the ATF looks a bit dark..... :dunno:

Princess, do you have the procedure and diagrams for changing ATFs on a 2004 Accord I4 Sedan? I saw one for V6 but not for the 4 cylinders.
Also, could you post the drain & fill and the overhaul method as well? Thanks!

If he replaces the ATF on another L4 7th gen when I'm there I'll try to take pictures again. It's really pretty easy.

What do you mean "overhaul" proceedure??? :dunno: You want to know how to rebuild the AT? If so, it's rarely done anymore... they replace them with a remanned. They do replace specific internal parts though. Not something I'd advise.

Thanks for the quick reply...

as per your question, you posted ATF fluid levels: (7th gen)

L4:

Automatic transmission fluid
Capacity

Use Honda ATF-Z1
Fluid change
2.9 L (3.0 US qt)

Overhaul <---------------Just wondering what this means? :)
6.5 L (6.9 US qt)

and for the instructions, I know it's fairly easy, but there's a filler hole on V6 trannies, but just wondering if there's one for L4 trannies, because I want to judge how much time I have to set aside for this procedure! :thmsup:

That is a dry fill. This means you are filling the tranny for the first time.

The first capacity is the fluid required for a fluid change. When you change the fluid, half of it stays in the tranny as it is trapped by the Torque Converter and many other passages in the tranny.


You will see the same thing for an engine. A dry fill will always be slightly greater than a normal refill. The tranny just keeps more fluid than the engine.

This is why it is reccomending you change the fluid mutliple times over a period of miles as you cannot change all of the fluid at once.

"OVERHAUL" would mean the torque converter is empty & it holds a bunch!! :yes:

ah... ok..
thanks Steve and thanks princess!
I've changed the ATF @ 65000km, and now I'm at 77500km, the shifting seem sluggish, I've changed engine oil, I've done the ECU reset, and neither seemed to have helped. I drove my dad's 05 Accord (yes, he has the same car, just, newer), and his seems so much smoother than mine, and the shifts are so smooth...
so in conclusion, I just want to try and change the ATF again and see if that helps at all...

The ATF drain plug is in about the same place that it is on the 6th gen - facing the car, its on the left of the tranny.

Thanks Greg, but I was looking to see if there's a fill plug.

The fill spot is at the dipstick, with it out, of course. Many use a funnel with a hose on it or a long funnel.

The fill spot is at the dipstick, with it out, of course. Many use a funnel with a hose on it or a long funnel.

well.. I'm going from this post here... but that diagram is for V6 AT.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=73210&postcount=19

but anyway, doesn't matter, just a few more questions b4 i tackle this task.
1. Do I really need a new sealing washer?
2. How do I do a full flush? Do I just fill, drain, fill, drain until I feel it's clean? :lmao:

You mean drain plug washer, right? Since they are soft stuff, it's a good idea... it will be less likely to leak on you later. It's worth the few cents.

You're best off just changing the fluid. If you want to have it cleaner then change, drive it, change it, drive it..... with about 500 miles or so inbetween. It actually is SAFER that way. It losens up the crud & particles without risk. If you wanted to, you could wait until the last one to change the drain plug washer so it's only done once. With regular changes, flushes aren't needed.

If the tranny fluid is nice & red, then it's lookin' good & no point in wasting your time & money on repeats.

In my opinion, the first change is the most important to remove the tiny metal particles that are going to accure on a new one. (just like with the oil) After that just a consistant schedule should be fine.

Since mine is the dreaded V6, we've gone overboard. The good news is that it's looked fine. :thmsup: I'm now at 20K & have had 4 ATF changes & 4 oil changes.

The Ridgeline has a "minder" (for the oil) & it decided the driving style is "severe". It was changed at about 10% & the mileage was 5K. So we're in agreement with it!! :thmsup:

yeah.. the drain plug washer.. thanks, sorry for asking so many questions...

I'm @ 78000 km now, and I've only had 1 ATF change... is that bad?? :dunno: and i've only had the car for 2.5 years.. so I guess i should change it anyway... what do you think?

Bear with me a moment, I jsut want to make sure I do this right.

1.First off is it okay to get a little more lift if I drive the car up on front tire ramps. Will this slight angle affect the fluid drainage or possibly get a little more out. I could always measure what comes out and if more than 3.2 qts, jsut add back in a like amount.

2. Do I need crush washers for both the drain plug and the refill plug?? Some say to refill through the dipstick hole, but apparently the v6 has a refill bolt??

3. Is it a necessity to buy a torque wrench for both the drain and refill plugs. I've never used one on my oil drain plug and never had any problems. I thought i could just tighten pretty tight especially since there are crush washers involved.

4. I beleive I have to run the car until the fan comes on to warm up the fluid, then begin the draining, is this right?

Thanks to anyone that wants to tackle these questions. I know for the experienced home mechanics these are simple questions, but your responses can really be of help to us novices.

Thanks Again!!

1. Sure, drive it up onto the ramps. You should get most of it out and if you are worried, only put in 3 Qts and check the fill. Always better to check instead of overfill.

2. Get a new crush washer for the drain bold. I don't think there is one for the fill bolt. Also, it is not the same as the oil washer, this one is bigger.

3. You don't need one. Just make sure you don't over torque the bolt as its an aluminum pan and you can crack it. The crush washer is actually there for two reasons. One is leak prevention, the other is protection against the cracking. You will feel the washer give. Once that happens, stop tightening.

4. Just drive the car around a little to let it warm up. The tranny oil really only gets warm with driving. Its not like engine oil.


Any other questions? Post them and the help will follow. Best of luck to you as I believe car maintenance is easy enough for anyone to do. Knowledgeable people are powerful.

There is one for the fill bolt but I don't think it's necessary to replace it as long as you don't overtighten the fill plug. There's no real chance of leaking since the fluid would have to go up and out.

You don't really have to drive it around, the tranny fluid is routed thru the radiator. Once the engine fans come on the engine is above operating temp, the tranny fluid should be close behind. But no harm driving it around, I usually check it after I fill it and let it warm up, then I drive the car to dump the used oil and come back to check it again.

Driving is just faster. That's all. Especially in this cold state......


Yeah, I couldn't remember if there was a washer on the top or not.

You should be good to go!

JUST ONE MORE COMMENT/QUESTION

I will follow your instructions regarding transmission fluid change. Regarding torqueing, I understand about once the washer gives a little to stop tightening. Now I am a little concerned about my oil plug/pan. I recently changed my oil but did not have a new crush washer. I have since ordered 10 for the future.

Anyway I changed the oil and used the old washer and tighened with my ratchet wrench. I put a good deal of force with my arm while laying down on the ground. I did not feel any give in the washer, but I did tighten pretty hard. I am around 180 lbs. How would I know if I over tightened. Would I have heard a metal cracking sound, or sqeeking sound? So are no leaks, but I did not go back underneath and look. Hopefully no damage, but for the future, I guess just put a little elbow grease and feel if it is snug, but don't keep tightening until it can't move any more. Is this right???




1. Sure, drive it up onto the ramps. You should get most of it out and if you are worried, only put in 3 Qts and check the fill. Always better to check instead of overfill.

2. Get a new crush washer for the drain bold. I don't think there is one for the fill bolt. Also, it is not the same as the oil washer, this one is bigger.

3. You don't need one. Just make sure you don't over torque the bolt as its an aluminum pan and you can crack it. The crush washer is actually there for two reasons. One is leak prevention, the other is protection against the cracking. You will feel the washer give. Once that happens, stop tightening.

4. Just drive the car around a little to let it warm up. The tranny oil really only gets warm with driving. Its not like engine oil.


Any other questions? Post them and the help will follow. Best of luck to you as I believe car maintenance is easy enough for anyone to do. Knowledgeable people are powerful.

Chances are you didn't damage anything. You really have to over torque in order to do damage. The washer is just another safety precaution.

You'll be fine as long as there are no leaks I wouldn't worry about it.


The actual torque I think is 36 lbs. So, it is much less than you'd torque a lug nut. Just tighten it until you get a decent amount of resistance. I know I can feel that washer give a little when its tight. Its really not that big of a deal, I am just a little more anal than others. I'm sure your local Jiffy Lube doesn't torque the bold either.