emissions test problems: "not ready" [Archive] - Drive Accord Honda Forums

: emissions test problems: "not ready"


bdd95
07-24-2006, 11:52 AM
I am running into problems taking my 2003 Accord V6 for Texas State Inspection. When the tech connects to my computer, a number of indicators for the emissions portion of the test say "not ready". He says this happens commonly especially when batteries are disconnected or changed or major maintenance has been done. I have had none of that. No check engine lights or other dashboard indicators of problems. He also says that putting the car through a drive cycle should help to set the indicators to "ready". 2 different Honda Service Department people say that there isn't any specific drive cycle for these vehicles and haven't been much help.

Any ideas?

Peniole
07-24-2006, 06:50 PM
Once again the honda service dept. morons haven't got a clue. There is a very specific drive cycle (at least for my I4, keep in mind both the I4 and the V6 have the same exact manual so it should be the same) and it is mentioned in the drivers manual... From the manual...

Your vehicle has certain readiness codes that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set. If they are not set, the test cannot be completed. If your vehicle battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are erased. It takes at least three days of driving under various conditions to set the codes again. To check if they are set, turn the
ignition switch to ON (II), without starting the engine. The malfunction
indicator lamp will come on for 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are set. If it blinks 5 times, the readiness codes are not set. If possible, do not take your vehicle for a state emissions test until the readiness codes are set. Refer to for more information (see page 284 ).

If you take your vehicle for a state
emissions test shortly after the
battery has been disconnected or
gone dead, it may not pass the test.
This is because of certain readiness
codes that must be set in the onboard
diagnostics for the emissions
systems. These codes are erased
when the battery is disconnected,
and set again only after several days
of driving under a variety of conditions.

If the testing facility determines that
the readiness codes are not set, you
will be requested to return at a later
date to complete the test. If you must
get the vehicle retested within the
next two or three days, you can
condition the vehicle for retesting by
doing the following.

Make sure the gas tank is nearly,
but not completely full (around
3/4).

Make sure the vehicle has been
parked with the engine off for 8
hours or more.

Make sure the ambient
temperature is between 20 and
95F.
Without touching the accelerator
pedal, start the engine, and let it
idle for 20 seconds.
Keep the vehicle in Park
(automatic transmission) or
Neutral (manual transmission).
Increase the engine speed to 2,000
rpm, and hold it there until the
temperature gauge rises to at least
1/4 of the scale (about 3minutes).

Select a nearby lightly traveled
major highway where you can
maintain a speed of 50 to 60 mph
(80 to 97 km/h) for at least 20
minutes.
Drive on the highway in D (A/T)
or 5th/6th (M/T). Do not use the
cruise control. When traffic allows,
drive for 90 seconds without
moving the accelerator pedal.
(Vehicle speed may vary slightly;
this is okay.) If you cannot do this
for a continuous 90 seconds
because of traffic conditions, drive
for at least 30 seconds, then repeat
it two more times (for a total of 90
seconds).

Then drive in city/suburban
traffic for at least 10 minutes.
When traffic conditions allow, let
the vehicle coast for several
seconds without using the
accelerator pedal or the brake pedal.

If the testing facility determines the
readiness codes are still not set, see
your dealer.

bdd95
07-24-2006, 08:05 PM
Thanks. Spent all my time looking thru the manual for stuff like "drive cycle" but not looking for the heading "emissions". I had found generic drive cycle stuff for Hondas and other cars on the OBDII website but it was apparently crap.

James.uk
07-25-2006, 03:18 PM
>>Select a nearby lightly traveled major highway where you can maintain a speed of 50 to 60 mph (80 to 97 km/h) for at least 20 minutes.<<

Hhmmm. Interesting.. But that procedure would be virtually impossible in the UK.. :thumbsdow 20 miles without having to change speed?? yeah right.. we wish!! :D lol.

BenjiBoy650
07-25-2006, 03:19 PM
Doesn't say you can't change speed...

James.uk
07-25-2006, 03:24 PM
?? It clearly states "maintain"??? not "average" no?? otherwise any road, any speed will do? just drive for 20 mins??

BenjiBoy650
07-25-2006, 03:26 PM
It says "maintain 50 to 60" which means you can do any speed in between that...

greg-ster
07-25-2006, 03:34 PM
If it blinks 5 times, the readiness codes are not set.
Ding ding ding!

(Sorry to steal a bit from the thread)

That's been the standard procedure happening on my car for around 2 months now (since the O2 sensor got replaced)... now I know what it is :thmsup:

I asked H of New Rochelle about it and they said that "We use the HDS for retrieving DTC's, not the MIL"... I think that they sort of misunderstood my question, since I understand their response.

Are there any ways to guess what readiness codes aren't set, or do I need to accelerate my purchase of a OBD scanner (looking foward to it). :paranoid:

James.uk
07-25-2006, 03:45 PM
Hi Ben.

We could only 'guarentee' (hope!) to do that here on a straight section of motorway in the early hours of the morning (due to the huge volume of trafic here during daylight hours) and only then, if -- there were no road works or temp speed restriction in operation within the 15-20 miles needed.. So as stated.. we wish.. lol...

Some counties don't have any motorways at all... I know Dorset doesn't.. :(
and the London ring road M25 isn't called the M25 car park for nothing.. lol

princess
07-26-2006, 08:58 AM
Here's what I found....

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes)
The vehicle has certain ''readiness codes'' that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these readiness codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished.

To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not set to complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code.

To check the status of a specific DTC system, check the OBD status in the DTC MENU with the HDS. This screen displays the code, the current data list of the enable criteria, and the status of the readiness testing.

Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code
NOTE:

Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure.

All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the HDS.

Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete.

The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met.

If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault.

Enable Criteria
ECT at 158 F (70 C) or more.

Intake air temperature (IAT) at -13 F (-25 C) or more.

Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more than 3 mph (5 km/h).

Procedure
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the READINESS CODEs screen for Catalyst in the DTCs MENU.

Start the engine.

Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch to completed.

If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a Temporary DTC with the HDS. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure.



Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness Code
NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the HDS.

Enable Criteria
Battery voltage is more than 10.5 V.

Engine at idle.

ECT sensor between 176 F (80 C) and 212 F (100 C).

MAP sensor less than 46.6 kPa (14 in.Hg, 350 mmHg).

Vehicle speed 0 mph (0 km/h).

IAT sensor between 32 F (0 C) and 212 F (100 C).

Procedure
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC).

Start the engine.

Select EVAP TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS, then select the FUNCTION TEST in the EVAP TEST MENU.

If the functions are normal, readiness is complete.

If the functions are not normal, go to the next step.

If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure.


Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code
NOTE:

Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure.

All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the HDS.

Enable Criteria
ECT at 158 F (70 C) or more.

Procedure
Start the engine.

Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete.

Check the readiness codes screen for the Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor in the DTCs MENU with the HDS.

If the screen shows complete, readiness is complete.

If the screen shows not complete, go to the next step.

Check for a Temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met. Select the DATA LIST Menu. Check the ECT in the ALL DATA LIST with the HDS. If the ECT is lower than 158 F (70 C), run the engine until it is higher than 158 F (70 C), then repeat the procedure.


Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code
NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the HDS.

Procedure
Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete.

If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure.


Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code
This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored.

Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road.

Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria.

Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code
This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation.

Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active.

Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met.

Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code
This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running.

EGR Monitor and Readiness Code
NOTE:

Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure.

All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the HDS.

Enable Criteria
ECT at 176 F (80 C) or more.

Procedure
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC).

Start the engine.

Drive at a steady speed with the A/T in D position or M/T in 4th gear, 50-62 mph (80-100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds.

With the A/T in D position or M/T in 4th gear, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds. If the engine is stopped during this procedure, go to step 2 and do the procedure again.

Check the OBD status screen for DTC P0401 in the DTC's MENU with the HDS.

If it is passed, readiness is complete.

If it is not passed, go to step 3 and retest.

bdd95
07-27-2006, 07:38 AM
I tried the drive cycle in the manual. Did it just like it said, which is hard to do in Austin. It didn't work.

HDS? DTC menu? Don't know what that stuff is.

Pilot4Life
07-27-2006, 08:28 AM
You're in Austin? Cool! If I were you I'd go out to loop 360 and try it. Or you could try a really good Honda shop that I know of. Precision Auto Works, it's off of I-35 behind Capitol Plaza shopping center where the new Target is. Their website address is www.precision-autoworks.com the site is uner constuction, but there is a map and contact info. Michelle is the name of the owner, and they're very straight forward with customers. They have free loaners too. Hope that helps somewhat. 512-45-HONDA (454-6632) is the phone number.

princess
07-27-2006, 09:53 AM
HDS = Honda Diagnostic System, the computer to diagnose.
DTC = is the Diagnostic Trouble (shooting) Code which tells which system has a malfunction.

princess
07-27-2006, 12:46 PM
It didn't work.

Sounds like a blown fuse. Possibly the "back up" fuse. I'll see if I can find the location for you.


Looks like # 7 or #15 in the under hood fuse box.

greg-ster
08-02-2006, 04:45 PM
Ok, I'm wondering if it would be more appropriate to bump this thread or My previous thread about the EVAP system in our cars (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6371&highlight=evap)

I got a quick OBD scan with my new PC tool before going to work this morning, and my readiness code problem is from the EVAP system being "not complete". It looks like the Mahwah Honda tech was onto something back in May...

I'll try to post up the screenshots later on today :)

bdd95
08-22-2006, 12:56 PM
My battery was weak. That was it. Only 3 years old. Once I got a battery test the problem was solved with a new one. Thanks.

princess
08-23-2006, 09:49 AM
Ah, that makes sense.... it was resetting with nearly every start!! Glad it was found!! :thmsup:

Silver
08-25-2006, 09:51 PM
May I ask how long did it take after replacing the battery until the readiness codes were set to 'complete'?

I had brought my mine in to the dealer for an oil change and inspection this pass Tuesday after work, and the battery was replaced by them after it failed inspection. Their guess was that it failed because of a very weak battery. They said give it a couple of days cause I have to drive it around for a few miles before bringing it back in. well, I've already put on ~230 miles since tuesday afternoon and my MIL light still blinks after 20 seconds. My drive is 99% highway and don't really sit in traffic much. Work is 25 miles away and I usually stay between 60-80. Both home and work are 1 minute from the highway.

starting to get worried... :(

princess
08-25-2006, 09:55 PM
sounds like something else going on... :dunno: It should've reset by now!!

Silver
08-25-2006, 10:18 PM
sigh.... :boohoo: the last thing I need is to have to pay for car repairs. :headbash:

Question for you Princess, I noticed that when I got into my car after the dealer replaced my battery, the radio was still on. I didnt have to enter the security code. I didn't know that was possible. Do dealers look up the code and enter it after replacing batteries? and btw, have a wonderful vacation! I could sure use one!

princess
08-25-2006, 10:37 PM
The way they normally do it is to retrieve the codes before they disconnect the battery. Then put them & your preset radio stations back in. This can either be done manually or they can use their saving system to do it.

Thanks.... I should be sleeping.... but I'm unable to turn off my brain..... :dunno: I need to be ready to go in 4 & a half hours!

Peniole
08-26-2006, 12:10 PM
I wouldn't worry much only after 2 days. It took mine around 5 to reset, it just depends on the type of driving you do, I hardly do any highway so it took longer. You have the opposite problem. Try the cycle I posted before if you're really worried, if still nothing happens then I'd start troublehsooting again.

Silver
08-26-2006, 05:38 PM
will do! thanks!

Silver
09-02-2006, 11:31 AM
--just an update--

I tried the drive cycle posted (Thanks Peniole and all!) but the the MIL still blinks. So I decided to bring it back in anyways for inspection because it had already been about 10 days and 650 miles or so. The tech at the dealer came out, shook my hand, and said 'Congratulations, you passed' :lmao: I took a look at the inspection report and sure enough, EVAP was still "not ready". Right now, I'm just glad it passed! Texas apparently allows up to 2 monitors to read "not ready".

With the EVAP set to "not ready" hurt the motor in any way? Or is this something I should not really worry about?

s2kav6
09-26-2006, 11:19 AM
Hi, I know this is an old thread but I am running into the same situation. I just move to CA and need to do the smog check. Everything is fine but I fail the MIL/engine light. The guy told me to come back in about a week and it should be fine (complete the driving cycle).

It has been 3 days already and the MIL light still blinks 5 times (I check it every morning). I bought the car about a year ago and never disconnect my battery. I think my battery is still good (no dim light..). I am just wondering what's going on? :dunno:

Any info is appreciated.

princess
09-26-2006, 12:33 PM
Did they tell you the code it was having?

SSMV6
09-26-2006, 12:43 PM
When you say MIL, do you mean the Maint Req'd light on the right side of the guages or the orange engine icon on the left side of the guages? If it's the Maint Req'd light, Try holding the trip reset button and turn the ignition to run (but don't start the engine) and wait for 10 seconds. The light should go off.

If it's the check engine light, did you ever get the code pulled? If so, what is it?

s2kav6
09-26-2006, 01:22 PM
No, he didn't tell me the code. He just gave me a copy of the result. I passed everything but the MIL/engine light.

I check it by myself (turn the ignition switch to II, MIL light comes up, blink 5 times and gone) and confirm that the codes are not set.

I just have no idea why the codes are not set as I didn't touch anything in the past year (except oil change which was like 2 months ago) :dunno:

Did they tell you the code it was having?

s2kav6
09-26-2006, 01:24 PM
I am talking about the "orange engine" light on the left side. But wait.. the light NEVER come up when I am driving. But somehow I failed the MIL/engine light part of the smog test.

When you say MIL, do you mean the Maint Req'd light on the right side of the guages or the orange engine icon on the left side of the guages? If it's the Maint Req'd light, Try holding the trip reset button and turn the ignition to run (but don't start the engine) and wait for 10 seconds. The light should go off.

If it's the check engine light, did you ever get the code pulled? If so, what is it?

SSMV6
09-26-2006, 01:51 PM
Go to autozone and try to get your code pulled. It's free.... At least you'll have some sort of idea what the problem is.

s2kav6
09-26-2006, 01:59 PM
I've a question. Since the light never comes up, can I still get a code (if there is any?).

Go to autozone and try to get your code pulled. It's free.... At least you'll have some sort of idea what the problem is.

SSMV6
09-26-2006, 02:27 PM
It is still possible to get a code even if the CEL isn't lit. There are pending codes and stored codes. Pending codes will not set the CEL, but can still be pulled to check for impending problems. Besides, if you failed the emissions test because of the light, there will be a stored/ pending code in the ECU.

s2kav6
09-26-2006, 03:19 PM
I just called the techician. He said no code was pulled as everything is fine. He said my car probably just need to finish the driving cycle and it should pass the smog test.

However, as I said earlier, the code is still unset (engine light blinks 5 times before goes off) after 3 days of driving. My concern is I didn't touch my engine for the past month or so and why the code is still unset? :dunno:

princess
09-26-2006, 04:43 PM
As was stated earlier in this thread, the likely cause....as it has been for others, is the battery going bad. If the light doesn't go away, it's because it keeps getting an error type message with every restart. Batteries are good for about 3-4 years....& sounds like it's about that time. :D

s2kav6
09-26-2006, 05:23 PM
The battery can only last for 3-4 years? damn.....

As was stated earlier in this thread, the likely cause....as it has been for others, is the battery going bad. If the light doesn't go away, it's because it keeps getting an error type message with every restart. Batteries are good for about 3-4 years....& sounds like it's about that time. :D

BenjiBoy650
09-26-2006, 06:04 PM
The battery can only last for 3-4 years? damn.....
They don't last forever! :yes:

SSMV6
09-26-2006, 09:19 PM
The battery in my cousin's '93 accord only lasted for 8-11 months! :eek: It was an 84-month Exide.

Well their case was special since the battery wasn't really tied down so I think the excess vibrations killed it prematurely. Couldn't get a warranty replacement though since I had no idea where they got the battery.

s2kav6
09-27-2006, 09:56 AM
I went to Autozone last night and they told me the battery is bad :thumbsdow

I replaced a new one and hopefully after few days of driving I can "complete" the drive cycle. I check this morning and the MIL light still blink 5 times and turn off...

mwmcginn
09-27-2006, 10:57 AM
The battery in my cousin's '93 accord only lasted for 8-11 months! :eek: It was an 84-month Exide.

Well their case was special since the battery wasn't really tied down so I think the excess vibrations killed it prematurely. Couldn't get a warranty replacement though since I had no idea where they got the battery.


What does this guy do to his car? Not to get off topic, but did you ever get the brake situation fixed?

SSMV6
09-27-2006, 12:33 PM
What does this guy do to his car? Not to get off topic, but did you ever get the brake situation fixed?
They trusted the car to the local Exxon monkey. :lmao: The brake situation isn't fixed yet, but that could wait... Maybe it'll get fixed in two weeks. I think they're going to need new pads soon anyway. I was busy last weekend and the weekend before that, I was replacing her Jetta's rear brakes and tighten the valve clearances on the Accord before the rocker arms start cracking. This coming weekend, I'm going to be busy again... They're just the kind of people who know how to use the car, but don't know how to maintain it other than doing the usual fluid changes (oil and filter). :D

mwmcginn
09-27-2006, 12:46 PM
Man you stay busy, can you come and fix the power window switch on my truck when you have time? Sounds like you are really helping some people out.

SSMV6
09-27-2006, 01:01 PM
Hehe.... I'm taking care of the problems/maintenance that come up on 8 cars across 3 different makes... 3 in my family (2 Toyotas and my Accord), 2 in my fiance's family (Honda and Toyota) and 3 in my cousin's family (VW, Toyota and Honda) and when there's nothing to do for the cars, I help fix up my house and my fiance's house.. My weekends are usually pretty busy. :blah:

s2kav6
10-02-2006, 01:12 PM
Just an update. I replaced the battery on last Tuesday night and passed the smog test this morning!! :banana:

Thanks for the help.. :thmsup:

SSMV6
10-02-2006, 01:18 PM
Just an update. I replaced the battery on last Tuesday night and passed the smog test this morning!! :banana:

Thanks for the help.. :thmsup:
That's great news! Is the CEL still blinking when you start the engine?

s2kav6
10-02-2006, 03:19 PM
That's great news! Is the CEL still blinking when you start the engine?

Not anymore.. but it took a little bit longer time that I expected to "complete" the drive cycle (over 300 miles).

princess
10-02-2006, 04:01 PM
Technically, the batteries now would probably start the car for another couple years, but the other stuff in them is more sensitive to the weakenesses & so it shows. :D

SEADAVE
05-10-2008, 09:57 PM
I just encountered the same problem with my wife's 2003 Accord EX V6 sedan -- the car was rejected at an emissions test due to various sensors not being in the ready state. The battery had been disconnected 2 months prior but the car had been driven a lot since then. Surely the "drive cycle" should have been completed.

Taking the car through the "drive cycle" defined in the owner's manual did not set the "readiness state" . When turning the ignition to the "on" position the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) would come on for 20 seconds then blink 5 times.

Per the suggestions on this thread I replaced the battery, took the car on a "drive cycle", and now when turning the ignition to the "on" position the MIL comes on for 20 seconds, goes off and does not blink 5 times.

Replacing the battery seems to have fixed the problem with the emissions readiness states not being retained between starts.

The original/factory battery was about 5 years old (we took delivery of the car in June 2003). We hadn't noticed any start problems with the car but the climate in Seattle is pretty mild. A local dealer quoted $97 for an OEM battery. I bought a NAPA 75 "Legend" (group size 35) battery for $77 instead.

- Dave

scarr1
12-10-2008, 10:45 AM
I had the same problems when I went to smog test my 2003 Accord in
California. The technician at Quality Tune Up said I failed the test because the maintaince codes were not set. He told me to drive around for a while and come back for a retest. The Honda dealer said the same thing. But after reading this forum, I realized I may need a new battery and I needed to follow a procedure to reset the codes. I got a new battery on Saturday and tried the procedure on Sunday with no luck. I may have turned the car off and on too soon after completing the procedure for the codes to reset. Then I tried the procedure again on Thursday. I could not implement the steps perfectly as I needed to drive about 5 miles to a freeway where I could drive between 50 and 60 miles per hour for 20 minutes. This time I left the car off for about an hour after completing the procedure. I still had the flashing MIL light when I drove home but it stopped blinking later that night when I turned on the car. In total, I drove for 5 days and about 250 miles before the 5 blinks stopped. My battery was almost 6 years old and had 87,000 miles so it was time to get a new one. Without this forum, I would have never known how to resolve the problem. Thanks.

chschen
06-11-2009, 04:39 PM
To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not set to complete.


When I tried this with my 1999 Honda Accord (putting it in ON (II)), the Check Engine Light came on for two seconds (rather than 15-20) and then went off. The mechanic just reset my codes this morning, and I've only driven the car about 8 miles since then on local roads, never going above 45 mph. Do you think this means my readiness codes are complete?

princess
06-15-2009, 11:10 AM
'99 is different....some MAY be reset, but likely not all.

we<3honda
07-21-2010, 10:03 PM
Can anyone help me make sense of why exactly we have to go through these computer problems in order to pass emmisions?? Isn't it just supposed to work right as I drive it??

Ok. That is my frustrtation. BUT I am soooo happy I came across this very helpful post because perhaps tomorrow when we take it back into Jiffy to receive yet another fail, we will try a new battery . . . I have had my suspicions with this current battery . . . and I think that will be much easier (and economical) than taking it in to Honda.

I really do love my honda, just not computer problems (in a car or on a desktop)!

we<3honda
07-22-2010, 02:28 PM
Took it in this morning after driving 100 miles, completing both drive cycles (the one the shop gave us and the one in the manual) and not ONE change!! SO, we checked the battery and found we needed a new one. But still not sure if this will fix our problem. The tech at Jiffy Lube said he'd never seen someone drive 100 miles and have no changes . . . I hope we can figure this out before we actually take it in to Honda Monday. $118 just to look at it!

CheeseHead1
12-18-2010, 05:58 PM
Technically, the batteries now would probably start the car for another couple years, but the other stuff in them is more sensitive to the weakenesses & so it shows. :D

Wow, great thread, thanks for sharing all the info everyone! I never would have guessed a weak battery could be the culprit.

Boy, I hate to see everyone have to buy a new battery just to pass emissions! If you've got multiple cars (or a good friend), maybe it would be an option to just swap batteries long enough to get the monitors to reset and pass emissions - then switch back and get the rest of the life out of the battery!

CheeseHead1
12-18-2010, 06:09 PM
So what happened?

CheeseHead1
12-18-2010, 06:10 PM
Took it in this morning after driving 100 miles, completing both drive cycles (the one the shop gave us and the one in the manual) and not ONE change!! SO, we checked the battery and found we needed a new one. But still not sure if this will fix our problem. The tech at Jiffy Lube said he'd never seen someone drive 100 miles and have no changes . . . I hope we can figure this out before we actually take it in to Honda Monday. $118 just to look at it!

So what happened, what was the answer?

ram
01-15-2011, 07:10 AM
so I failed twice in NH - no work recently done on my car.

Failed on 12/31/10 @ shop round the corner (not dealer where I normally service car)

Still charged for inspection and given a partial pass sticker (numbers only no color backing)

They gave me the NH DOT doc on why OBD not ready and said drive for a week and come back and they will try again for no charge.

1/4/11 pulled over by local PD on my way to school with daughter :thumbsdow guy looked at papers and let me go - still no fun and embarrassing for daughter who is 13 and was recognized by her friends going by on the buss :dunno:

1/10/11 back @ shop for re-try - over 400 miles (town/highway mix) driven and a tank and a half of gas later. Again failure.

Shop is clueless but says hey come back and we'll try again.

1/8/11 find this thread and it points me to the sections of my manual on MIL and readyness drive cycle.

Spend next two days trying to reset items - but hey at least now I know how to check if they're reset - I swear at one point after doing the cold start followed by 3 minutes warm up and then driving home it read ready but then a few hours later it was not ready :(

As an aside: when they say that you should drive for 90 seconds on the highway without moving the gas pedal - do they mean?

1. keeping the gas pedal in same position
2. coasting without touching the gas pedal at all


NEways so never get it done but someone at work has a OBD code reader which I borrowed

Just read the codes. No fault codes but Evap and Catalyst not ready.

So I am thinking I need to re-do drive cycle ... but after further full read of this thread it seems clear that I need a new battery (still using the original one ... lol .... garaged at night I think helps me not realize it is getting weak).

Any other thoughts?

ram
01-16-2011, 08:17 AM
okay - went to walmart supercenter had them test the battery and it was on it's way out so it got replaced - $82 for the battery - testing and install was free and I avoided the $9 recycle charge since they recycled the old battery.

So I drove back home and then this morning did the cold start procedure.

I re-read the codes and I am still showing not ready on evap and catalytic converter

I am going to try and do some highway miles later and hopefully reset the thing, but I am a little concerned that it is the same two that are still showing as not ready.

I am hoping to be ready for tomorrow as I have the day off but the car shop that did the inspection is open.

Any thoughts?

ram
01-24-2011, 05:54 AM
well it took 6 days after replacing the battery for the evap to finally say it was ready but it did and I was able to pass the inspection :banana:

drewb0y
02-06-2013, 09:37 AM
I just replaced the catalytic convertor on my 2005 accord, and had the codes previously cleared. When I went to get an inspection, of course I failed for 3 not ready codes. Catalytic, EGR and O2 sensor. I drove it today to work which consisted of about 33 miles of highway driving at between 70 - 80 mph.

When I got to work and checked the readiness codes, I still got the CEL flashing 5 times.

Is this because I was not going 50 - 60 mph?

ryeisenman
06-06-2014, 05:20 PM
In my case on my 1999 Honda Civic the Backup Radio fuse (located in engine compartment) was blown. If its blown the OBD computer won't save results whenever vehicle is turned off. The C EV O and OH monitors would show not ready / not completed whenever I started the car. I'd drive the car for half an hour and check with an OBD reader and the C O and OH would be OK/ready. But then turn car off and turn the ignition back on and the OBD computer would forget that it had run them and these monitors would show not ready again. And the EV / EVAP would never run. I think the EVAP might not run unless the car sits for awhile, and the computer would need to remember that it had been sitting for awhile.