View Full Version : New Spark Plugs, install or not?
BenjiBoy650
03-24-2004, 10:41 PM
I pulled out my plugs today and found that they were in good condition, no real fouling of any kind just a bit of rounding on the center electrode. Well since they're still in pretty good condition, what do you guys suggest I do? I have new plugs on my hands already, all I have to do is install them. Should I just hold off? They're just copper NGK's, so no big improvement or anything I'd say.
benjamming
03-25-2004, 06:14 AM
How many miles on your current plugs? What is the gap?
BenjiBoy650
03-25-2004, 09:42 PM
I don't know the mileage because I bought the car used with the plugs. I don't know the gap because I was in a hurry on that day. Honda specifies .04" gap but the NGK's I bought came with a .044. Think that's okay or too much?
Also if I overtighten or undertighten what are the consequences? I'm just a backyard DIYer so I have no fancy torque wrench, just estimating it.
BTW here's my story of my stupidity. I tried to take out the plugs using a regular 5/8 socket and the socket fell out in the hole. It took me an hour and a lot ingenuity to get it out. I finally use a piece of thick metal wire to hook it and pull it out. Geeze I was about to cry. I'd broken apart 2 or 3 fridge magnets trying to get it out. The problem was it the top of the plugs had went all the way thru the socket :(
according2me
03-26-2004, 06:18 PM
If what you have in there currently are coppers, I say replace them with the new coppers. It's only $2 per plug to know when the interval starts again. That's very cheap preventative maintenance, especially since you don't know at what mileage they were previously changed.
BTW, if you're doing this without a torque wrench, look at the box of the NGK plugs. There is usually a procedure to follow. Go slowly as the compression washer compresses. You definitely don't want to strip the threads in the head.
BenjiBoy650
03-26-2004, 08:01 PM
The box does have torque specs and all but I don't have a torque wrench it turns out :( It also says on the box hand tight + 1/16 of a turn or something like that. I find that kind of weird because I hand tightened it and it basically wouldn't go in anymore even with a socket wrench. My next door neighbor, a mech, tells me I'm not going to strip the threads unless I'm a real big idiot and tighten it really hard or cross thread it.
according2me
03-28-2004, 08:43 PM
My box says ... for aluminum heads_ using gasket type plugs_ hand tight + 1/2 to 2/3 turn if not using a torque wrench.
Be careful when starting the plugs, don't crossthread. They should go in very easily, if not back out and try again.
Do you have tapered plugs or gasket plugs for replacements?
BenjiBoy650
03-28-2004, 09:45 PM
I got the tapered seal I believe. It looks a bit tapered and it's metal. I hand tigtened the plug with the socket+extension but no wrench, then added another 1/8-1/4 turn (more than the 1/16 they asked for but I'm not convinced that I'm doing damage). Cylinder #4 particularly had a lot of trouble but I just took my time and back it out when I felt it getting tight, and it seems okay now. I haven't had the plugs fly outta the hole yet.
I felt like I was cross threading all the time. As I was putting it in, it felt kind of rough, as if like there was still a dried substance left in the head threads. I hope that's normal? Also didn't use any anti-seize...gunna be a problem?
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