Got a call from a good friend tonight - said to call his Honda mechanic up in Pennsylvania. I did.

This guy has been fixing Hondas for 20 years - at a large dealership.

I told him all about my transmission problems, and he just started laughing. Not cool, sir!!!!!

Then he told me that I probably got the one in a thousand transmissions with a "sensitive computer." Huh? He explained that, just like desktop or laptop computers, some of the Honda computers are a tad on the unstable side. Like my cousin Vinny. . .

He said to take off the negative wire to the battery. let it sit for about ten minutes, then re-connect the wire. He said I'd have to re-program the radio code and follow the instruction booklet on the windows.

Then, he said - take it out on the road and drive it very carefully for a few miles,never revving up the engine and never trying to "goose it."

He said that usually resets the computer, and that the transmission should become much smoother. He recommends this to all his Honda friends - has for years - and says to do it whenever the transmission shows signs of hard shifting or hesitation.

Oh, he says it doesn't always work - but he claims it will solve about 85% of the transmission problems he sees in his shop.

Is this for real? I trust my friend, but don't know this gentleman. Some input from y'all PLEASE:::

Respectfully. . .LarryR

PS - I periodically do this with my laptop computer - remove the battery and external power for about a minute. Seems to reset the thing and it works faster. Maybe this will work for the Honda as well??

Got a call from a good friend tonight - said to call his Honda mechanic up in Pennsylvania. I did.

This guy has been fixing Hondas for 20 years - at a large dealership.

I told him all about my transmission problems, and he just started laughing. Not cool, sir!!!!!

Then he told me that I probably got the one in a thousand transmissions with a "sensitive computer." Huh? He explained that, just like desktop or laptop computers, some of the Honda computers are a tad on the unstable side. Like my cousin Vinny. . .

He said to take off the negative wire to the battery. let it sit for about ten minutes, then re-connect the wire. He said I'd have to re-program the radio code and follow the instruction booklet on the windows.

Then, he said - take it out on the road and drive it very carefully for a few miles,never revving up the engine and never trying to "goose it."

He said that usually resets the computer, and that the transmission should become much smoother. He recommends this to all his Honda friends - has for years - and says to do it whenever the transmission shows signs of hard shifting or hesitation.

Oh, he says it doesn't always work - but he claims it will solve about 85% of the transmission problems he sees in his shop.

Is this for real? I trust my friend, but don't know this gentleman. Some input from y'all PLEASE:::

Respectfully. . .LarryR

There's certainly some merit to this - in that most of the computer controlled systems in a car can be reset and solve some problems. It's the easiest/cheapest thing to try - it may have merit.

andy

Yep a ECU reset might be all your car needs. Definitely something worth trying before taking it "to the next level".

Like your mechanic said, you'll need to reprogram the radio (and enter the unlock code), plus reprogram the auto up/down driver's window after doing the reset. Additionally, you'll need to redo the idle learn procedure, which essentially is the following (this is from a PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection) document for a 2004 Accord, plus a post made by Princess in the past):

Do the Idle Learn Procedure
To avoid an erratic idle, do the idle learn procedure after you install the Backup fuse. Idle learn must also be done after updating or replacing the ECM/PCM.

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, radio, rear window defogger, lights, etc.) are off.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait for 2 seconds. Start the engine, and hold the car at 3,000rpm in P or N and let it reach operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice), or the temp gauge hits its normal mark.

3. Let the engine idle for 5 minutes with the throttle
closed. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.

Also, if yours is a V6, then there is a also a CKP pattern that needs to be programmed:

CKP Pattern Learn
1.Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait for 30 seconds.

2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm to 1,000 rpm with the A/T in 2 position, or M/T in 1st gear.

3. Stop the vehicle, but keep the engine running.

4. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 5,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm with the A/T in 2 position, or M/T in 1st gear.

5. Stop the vehicle, but keep the engine running.

6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait for 30 seconds. The CKP learning procedure is completed.

And here is the info on reprogramming the window:

Initialize the Driver’s Window Auto Up/Down
The driver’s window has an auto up/down feature that you need to initialize at PDI and whenever the battery or window regulator is disconnected. To initialize the auto up/down, do this:

1. Make sure the driver’s window is fully closed, then push and hold the window switch until the window opens all the way.

2. Pull back the window switch, and hold it until the window is fully closed. Continue to hold the switch for another 2 seconds.

3. Check the auto up/down feature: When you firmly push the window switch and release it, the window opens all the way; when you firmly pull back the switch and release it, the window closes all the way.

I've also attached the pdf file containing the pdi info, as well, here is a link to the thread in which Princess went into all the reprogramming details (post of which I've copied and pasted above):

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6186

It seems that I get more information on this Forum than from all the service techs and mechanics I talked with - and for this I thank you so very much!

I've bookmarked and printed out all the material - don't want to miss any steps here, guyz-n-galz! (grin)

I've already made an appointment to take the car into my selling dealer on Wednesday - and then I'll see if they give me the usual "it's normal for this car" routine. Sigh. How many times have I heard that??? I just want to make sure that I "follow the rules" to keep my Honda warranty OK.

In calling my PA friend after talking to his Honda mechanic (they live about a block from each other) he said: "Oh, Pat says that the Honda dealers make a point of resetting the ECU every time a car comes in with engine or transmission concerns. He says it often solves the problem - and makes more money with less work for the dealer!" Hmm. . . .

Just want y'all to know that I appreciate your reading my humble postings, and giving me some solid answers! Many, many thanks. . .

Respectfully. . .LarryR

Yes, I have a V6 - but after reading all the material, do I really need to do the CKP learn sequence - or will it reset itself with normal driving?

Thanks - again - LR

I "think" it will learn on its own...but really I'm not sure. Hopefully Princess chimes in when she sees this thread...her "Prince" works for a Honda dealership and specializes in tranny repair/diagnostics (as I said above most of my info in that post came from her...lol).

jeeZus...blue screen of death flashes before my eyes now... :paranoid:

Idle learn from Princess.

The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.

Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions:

The ECM/PCM is replaced.

The ECM/PCM is reset.

NOTE: Erasing DTCs with the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure.

The throttle body is replaced or cleaned.

Procedure
Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear window defogger, lights, etc.) are off.

Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS.

Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait for 2 seconds.

Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194ºF (90ºC).

Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.

NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.


Here's how set the throttle cable:

Check cable free play at the throttle linkage. Cable free play (A) should be 3/8-1/2 in. (10-12 mm).

If the free play is not within spec (3/8-1/2 in., 10-12 mm), loosen the locknut (B), turn the adjusting nut (C) until the free play is as specified, then retighten the locknut.

With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to be sure it opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator pedal.


To test the throttle body:


Do not adjust the throttle stop screw. It is preset at the factory.

If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).

With the engine off, check the throttle cable movement. The cable should move without binding or sticking.

If the cable moves OK, go to step 2.

If the cable binds or sticks, check it and its routing. If the cable is faulty, reroute it or replace it, then adjust it. Go to step 2.

Move the throttle lever by hand to see if the throttle valve and/or shaft are too loose or too tight.

If there is excessive play in the throttle valve shaft, or any binding in the throttle valve at the fully closed or fully opened position, replace the throttle body.

If the throttle valve and shaft are OK, go to step 3.

Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).

Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

Check the throttle position with the HDS. The reading should be about 0º (REL), 0 % (REL) or 0.5 V when the throttle is fully closed and about 80º (REL), 89 % (REL) or 4.5 V when the throttle is fully opened.

If the throttle position is correct, the throttle body is OK.

If the throttle position is not correct, replace the throttle body.


None of this may help you, but it may give you the terms needed to discuss it with a shop!

This is all from '04 if the idle is too high....



Checking the idle speed:

NOTE:

Before checking the idle speed, check these items:

- The malfuction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on.

- Ignition timing

- Spark plugs

- Air cleaner

- PCV system

Pull the parking brake lever up.

Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector.

Connect the HDS to the date link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.

Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.

Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.



Idle speed should be:
A/T
790±50 rpm (in Park or neutral)

M/T
750±50 rpm (in neutral)


Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan and air conditioner off.



Idle speed should be:
A/T
790±50 rpm (in Park or neutral)

M/T
750±50 rpm (in neutral)


NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the Symptom Troubleshooting.

Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve connector.

you have nothing to lose by trying, right? :wave:

Yeah, I've got little to lose for trying. . .except what's left of my sanity! (grin)
I do have a question, though, about the road testing.
If I put the AT in 2 and take it up to 3,000 rpm, then take my foot off the accelerator until the rpms drop to 1,000 - do I then drive it awhile at that speed, or just keep my foot off the pedal and hit the brake to stop the car.
As a car Non-expert, I need some skilled guidance here.

Look at it as "special education," OK? (grin)

respectfully. . .LarryR

Yo - got home from my selling dealer's service shop today - and in frustration decided to go ahead and reset the ECU.
Gulp.
Followed all the directions, and it was pretty simple.
Did the idle procedure, the window re-set and the radio code re-set.
But - I did NOT do the procedure where you road test and drop from 3000 to 1000, then 5000 to 1000 and turn off, etc.
Didn't seem to be a problem.

Started the car - took it out for a test drive in "city" conditions. VOILA! It now shifts much smoother, and I don't get the feeling that it is "straining" during normal shift patterns.

Thanx to all for your help - I now know what to do when the car gets in a cranky tranny mood! (grin)

Now - if anybody knows how to fix a sticking tach. . . .

respectfully. . .LarryR