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stevencrosbie
11-12-2006, 10:58 AM
This post is for those of you who are in line to purchase your new Honda. These questions/steps are only guidelines and some may not apply to do depending on your car expertise. If you read through these, you might find some things to look at before you sign your rights away by taking ownership..

o you bought a new car and it's ready for you to pick up and drive off the lot. We know you're excited to get on the road, but it is important not to rush the delivery process. Below you'll find some general guidelines and a checklist for you to print out and use the day you pick up your new baby.

-- Call the salesperson ahead of time and let them know that you plan to perform a delivery check during daylight hours. Make an appointment -- getting through your checklist may take more than an hour.

-- Tell the salesperson that you don't want any dealer nameplates affixed to the vehicle in any way (painted, riveted, or adhesive bonded). The license plate holder is okay. Ask that the vehicle's plates remain the dealer's until after you've taken delivery.


1. Note the mileage. Before you do anything else, look at the odometer. It should be as close to zero as possible. After all, you're paying for a brand-new car. And that's exactly what you should get. But there's more than principle involved. The first few hundred miles on a fresh engine are critical if you want it to have a long, trouble-free life. Most manufacturers specify certain procedures during this break-in period; i.e., "Avoid full-throttle acceleration and excessive engine speeds," says one automaker. Unless you buy one that's just rolled off the delivery truck, most brand-new vehicles will have 10 or 20 miles on the clock - miles accumulated from shuffling the truck around the dealership, or from a few test drives. What you don't want is a car with 100 or 200 miles that's been a demonstrator vehicle to every lead-footed prospective buyer in town.

2. Look over the bodywork. Do it in the daylight. And it helps to have an eagle-eyed friend or relative along; four eyes are better than two. Again, you're buying a new car and you should expect a perfect finish. Take the car for a test drive with the dealership's plates installed on the car. The Uniform Commercial Code allows a reasonable opportunity to inspect goods before accepting delivery.

a. Carefully sight along the sides of the car, from front to rear and vice versa, looking for ripples, dimples and dings. Light scratches can be buffed out easily enough. But you certainly don't want a car that's had any repaired body damage.
b. Look for paint over-spray on door ledges or around the edges of the engine compartment that might indicate repairs. Make sure there are no paint swirls from dealer detailing.
c. Make sure seams and door lines are straight and true. Remember, a careful inspection is critical because after the car leaves the lot, the dealer could reasonably claim that any body damage was caused by you.
d. Are the trim, rubstrips, decals, chrome, hood ornaments, and other exterior features present, in good shape (defect-free), and properly attached?

3. Operate and inspect every item on the car:

a. Doors: Do they all work correctly? Do they seal properly?
b. Cruise control
c. Horn
d. Wipers
e. Do the locks work properly -- are they automatic, can they be operated remotely?
f. Does the hood release lever operate from the inside? Do you know the location? Can you open the hood yourself? Does it stay up on its own?
g. Is the engine compartment in perfect shape?
h. Is every dip stick, plastic cover, and wire harness present and properly secured?
i. All the fluids should be at optimal levels: oil, transmission, power steering, brake, windshield wash, and coolant.
j. There should be very little dirt and grime, and not a single sign of fluid leakage of any kind.
k. None of the engine components should show exterior wear or replacement -- things like one spark plug wire that is a completely different shade of black should draw a red flag and a question. They should replace them all with new items if that means you'll drive the vehicle away.
l. Battery: Is it filled properly? Or is it a "no-service" type? (Check the level or sight dot.) No corrosion should be present on the electrodes. It should be properly connected -- fastened to wire leads and properly secured -- tied down in the vehicle. 0 Ask about how to jump it properly. 0 Does it have a special separate warranty?
m. Is the trunk in perfect shape?
i. Is the carpeting properly fastened?
ii. Do the lights work correctly?
iii. Does the internal opening button work correctly?
iv. How about the outside lock?
v. If it has gas shocks to hold up the lid, are they working properly?
vi. Are the extras, such as cargo nets or trunk tray, present as you ordered?
n. Fuel System:
i. Which side is the filler door on?
ii. Can you open it from inside the vehicle?
iii. Does it lock?
iv. What grade of gasoline does the manufacturer recommend?
v. How big is the tank?
vi. At what level does the fuel gauge on the dash register? (Many dealers’ will buy the first tank, just ask!) Does the dash have a low fuel level warning light?
vii. Is there anything special about filling this vehicle with gas (i.e. some gas caps make a ratcheting sound when properly tightened)?

o. Tires:
i. Where is the spare tire and jack system located?
ii. Is the spare properly inflated?
iii. How far can you go on "the donut"?
iv. Is the jack present, accessible? Have you been given a briefing on the use of the jack? (And where do you install it?)
v. If you have wheel locks, where is the lug key? Are all the tires the same and as ordered? (Some performance tires have several different speed ratings and associated cost levels. Check the specific numbers on each tire.)
vi. What is the proper air pressure?
vii. What is the tire warranty and where is it? The tires should show no signs of wear, and should be properly inflated. Tires should be scuff-free.
viii. Are the hubcaps properly affixed?

p. Interior: Is the interior in perfect shape? Carpet, headliner, seats should have no tears, stains, or damage. Get in the car (both the front and back seats) and keep your eyes peeled for problems. Try out any device that will move, bend, turn, be pushed, or pulled. Do all the seatbelts work? Are the floor mats you ordered in the car?
q. Look in the glove box. Does it open properly? Is the owner's manual included? Does it lock?
r. Lighting and Signals.
i. Know where the light switches are, and how they work.
ii. Where is the fuse box?
iii. Check the operation of all the lighting systems:
1. Headlights (low and high beams),
2. Tail lights,
3. Emergency flashers,
4. Brake lights,
5. Backing lights,
6. Trunk light,
7. Hood light,
8. Interior lights (map lights, dome lights, glove box, reading lights, running board lights).
9. Does the vehicle have automatic shutoff? Is it for the headlights only?
10. How long does the dome light stay on after unlocking and locking the door? Can you dim interior lights. What about the dashboard lights? Is the ignition switch lighted? Daytime running lights?
11. Check left and right turn signals (front and back -- you'll need a helper) proper operation, and switch positions.

stevencrosbie
11-12-2006, 10:58 AM
s. Windows, Sunroofs and Mirrors:
i. Make sure there are no defects (chips, cracks).
ii. Are the options installed and how they working? (Options may include rear defogger, wiper and tinting.)
iii. Proper open and close operation tested on each window.
iv. Control device operation and location - power window controls, rapid down operation? Wipers, controls, delay systems, rear window?

t. Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning:
i. Do you understand all the controls and features of the climate control operations and control panel? Are there special defoggers?
ii. Special filters?
iii. Multi level systems?
iv. Front and rear controls?
v. Temperature settings and automatic controls? Duct operation? Fan controls?

u. Sound System:
i. Do you understand how everything operates?
ii. Adjust the controls and get sound out of each speaker. Does it sound correct to your ear? Try a cassette and CD (bring one with you).
iii. How do special features, such as equalizers, amplifiers, and trunk mounted CD tower work?

v. Do you understand operations and precautions with the safety features, such as seat belts and air bags? Do you know where each is located? What about cellular phone and navigation systems operation?
w. Seats:
i. Do you know how to work the seat position controls and where they are located?
ii. Does the lumbar work? Note the steering wheel positioning, tilt, telescope, lock, horn, and cruise control.
iii. Examine the dashboard gauges and warning indicators -- turn the key one click and see what warning lights you get. Are these correct?

4. Make sure the car is complete. The spare tire, tire-changing equipment, owner's manual, plus any unusual items that may standard equipment - like a first-aid kit or floor mats - should of course, be on board. Then be sure the car has any optional equipment that you paid for - premium or alloy wheels or a trunk-mounted CD changer, as examples. No reputable dealer would try to cheat you out of these things. But should any be missing, he'll go to more trouble to get them quickly if you refuse to take delivery of an incomplete vehicle.

a. All season floor mats.
b. Mud guards.
c. Wheel locks.
d. Two black keys w/ two key fobs.
e. One grey valet key.
f. Front black-plastic license plate holder; if dealer installed, get the two plastic plugs that were on the front bumper.
g. Front & rear carpeted floor mats.
h. Touch-up paint bottle; varies by dealer.
i. Key chain?

5. Take a final test drive. You may have already test driven the car, but this time be on the lookout for any malfunctions. The dealership still owns the vehicle, so expect the salesperson to accompany you. But ask him or her to can the chatter; you'll need to concentrate - and listen - as you put the truck through its paces. Be sure to take it on the highway, not just around the block.

a. Listen carefully to engine idle. Does it sound okay?
b. Look at the tailpipe. Any abnormal smoke or color? Moisture?
c. Brakes: Do you like the feel of the brake pedal (even and smooth)? How does the parking brake work? Does your foot have to be on the brake to shift out of park?
d. When you put the vehicle into gear, does it sound okay? Do the shift indicators line up with the proper gear that you are in (i.e. the indicator reads R when in reverse)?
e. Noise Check. Turn the radio off and use your senses. Drive over various road conditions and speeds that you know you will be frequenting. Listen for the Buzz Squeaks and Rattles (BSR) -- no tweet, tweet, tweet from the tailgate allowed. Also note NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness) -- no loud thuds, or strange shaking between 50-55 MPH allowed.
f. Watch the gauges. Do they move and register properly? (Gauges include the odometer, speedometer, tachometer, oil pressure, and coolant temperature.)
g. Run the air conditioning and heating. Do they appear to work properly?
h. Check the vehicles acceleration and braking for proper operation.
i. Accelerate to highway speeds and note any squeaks and rattles, and if the brakes or steering pull to one side.
j. Check the cruise control for proper operation.
k. Check the vehicle's handling: Can it turn a tight U-turn? Does it make any strange noises? Make right and left turns. Does the steering respond properly?

6. Get checked out. Part of the salesperson's job is to acquaint you with your new car's features and how each one operates. It's also an opportunity to be sure that each feature operates properly. Be sure you understand the heating/ventilation system, the audio system and the remote locking/security system; these can be fiendishly complex on many new upscale cars. Again, the salesperson is more likely to give you his or her undivided attention before, rather than after, the sale is final.

a. Demo the jack and explain use of the spare

7. Meet the service department. The service department will be your point of contact with the dealership once you've bought the car. Have the salesperson introduce you to the service manager. Ask about when you're expected to bring the car in for its first inspection, or any technical questions you may have - about fuel requirements, for instance. And ask the manager to show you around the engine bay, and to point out where you check the various fluid and oil levels.

a. Ask the dealer personnel if any repairs or alterations have been made to the vehicle? (Accidents happen, even to new vehicles being delivered. An honest dealership will tell you, but you often have to ask.)

8. Read the paperwork! Don't take anybody's word for anything. Make sure all the blanks in the contract are filled in. Make sure you're paying what you agreed to pay in your earlier negotiations. And make sure you're not paying for anything you didn't agree to buy. Once you're certain both the car and the paperwork are in order, you're ready to sign the contracts and drive away.

a. Does the VIN match what you agreed to purchase?
b. Temporary tags.
c. Loan documents.
d. Bill of sale.
e. Warranty overview
f. Do you have a business card for each of the dealership personnel you've worked with?
g. Does your vehicle have a 24-hour roadside assistance program? What does it entail?
h. The owner's manuals )
i. Navi code and radio codes.
j. Is the XM radio activated?

I saw this on another forum. I made some changes to make it better for us.

Conundrum
11-12-2006, 12:08 PM
I still remember when I went to pick up my Accord (after waiting 2 months for it to come directly from the factory) they looked at me funny when I told them I had to drive it around the block 1-2 times before I'd sign anything. Basically they took me over to the car and told me to look over it while the salesman talked to the manger. About 5-10 mins later he came back with the keys and said I was cleared to test her out.

Suprised me others never did this (almost seemed like no one had ever asked them before)...but then I'm not sure if my dad has ever driven a new vehicle before signing on the dotted line.

mnkyman
11-12-2006, 01:11 PM
:D nice post, lol unfortunetly i got a car with 255 miles on it :D

Conundrum
11-12-2006, 02:42 PM
Approx 40-60km for me :D :D :D :D

SSMV6
11-12-2006, 09:34 PM
8 miles for me. 11 miles for my old Civic Si... I'd refuse to take delivery for any new car with more than 25 miles on the ODO...

namegoeshere
11-12-2006, 09:52 PM
My car had about 58 miles on it when I took delivery. Some of it was put on by me from test driving it before though.

I inspected the car and noticed a small scratch, but they buffed it out.

I noticed that the back pocket behind the drivers seat popped out whenever I expanded it to put something in it. Told dealer and they changed it out no problem.

So far so good on everything else except the rock chips..... Wonder if I can tell them about the rock chips and see if they'll fix them. :naughty:

"Um.. yeah, I just noticed these rock chips here.... must've been there before I purchased the car. Hope you'll be able to fix 'em." :D

Oh, and good advice Steven. Had a friend come along too to help with the inspection. I made sure everything that was suppose to come with the car came with it..... spare tire, jack, tools, etc.

SCABADA
11-12-2006, 10:12 PM
Wow great list. Most of the time I think people are so focused on price they don't get the right car. Great ideas.

stevencrosbie
11-12-2006, 10:18 PM
Wow great list. Most of the time I think people are so focused on price they don't get the right car. Great ideas.

I think you hit the nail right on the head. People are so fixated on the "price" that they forget to even look at what they are buying.

Its hard to step back and be critical, but the true car enthusiast (anyone on this forum) needs to take the "chill Pill" and inspect what they buy.

**Yes...even in my young age, dating myself using "Chill Pill"http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/stevencrosbie/Faces/tomato.gif

EXLNavi
11-16-2006, 08:55 AM
12 miles for me after I did the 3 mile test drive.

bbtaco
11-20-2006, 02:21 PM
We were the first to test drive the 06 Accord that we bought, it had 4 miles on it. :) :) :)

princess
11-29-2006, 04:00 PM
They're supposed to have 2-4 miles on them for the PDI, if it's less, it wasn't done according to specs. More can be just from other potential owners.

The list for 04 & back.

Now each model has it's own list....

here's the 07 Accord added instructions.

GlennD
11-29-2006, 06:24 PM
My coupe was 4 months old with 130 miles on it. Since it was a fully loaded Nav car it was not a mainstream bread and butter car. It took a lot of short demo rides waiting for me.

Amanda Moen
11-30-2006, 11:21 PM
I must say, I like that PDI check list much better than the one's they use at Dodge-Chrysler, Nissan, and Volkswagen. I never really see the PDI's for Mitsubishi or Suzuki so I can't compare those.

Prix03GT
05-29-2007, 10:29 AM
My 07 had 122 miles on it because they had to bring it down for me from Philly to Baltimore. What can I say, I wanted the red one ;-)

HondaPOD
10-07-2007, 11:35 AM
My 07 had 122 miles on it because they had to bring it down for me from Philly to Baltimore. What can I say, I wanted the red one ;-)

You want what you want. Luckily for me they had my exact car on the lot when i bought it! :thmsup:
Had 11 miles on it. After i test drove it about 3. :yes:

08exl
10-09-2007, 04:06 AM
I agree with all of it, very good advice except...

a. All season floor mats.

Do cars generally come with these? I've never seen one that did here in Pensacola and I worked at a dealership for a couple weeks. Maybe it's a standard thing if you live in the northern part of the country where there are harsher weather conditions?

b. Mud guards.

Again, not so sure cars generally come with these and don't believe them to be any sort of standard item. But dealers generally add them.

c. Wheel locks.

Never seen a car that came standard with these. You can bet that if these are on your car, you're paying the extra for them, I know they're cheap, just sayin'.

f. Front black-plastic license plate holder; if dealer installed, get the two plastic plugs that were on the front bumper.

Mine had metal screws but they were from underneath the car anyway, no holes in the bumper for me:thmsup:

h. Touch-up paint bottle; varies by dealer.

Some dealers may offer that, but again I've never seen it. Most of these things seem like dealer add ons and are precisely the kind of things I would take a dealer to take out of the deal. If you buy the car with these items, check to see how much extra you are paying, $25 for touchup paint, $200 for mud guards, $200 for all season mats etc.

While I think it's important to not get stuck on price while doing a deal on a new car, make sure that you don't pay too much for all the extras as they can be added later for a fraction of the cost. When the dealer adds these things, they will get a markup on the parts, even if they say they're giving them at cost.

krazyfiend
11-02-2007, 05:34 PM
62 miles on my coupe when I took ownership ..but that was after stripping off the rest of the temp covering/protection stuff & a 14 mile 'test-drive' with the sales associate ... I don't know how some folks can test drive a car in 3 miles lol.

I definitely inquired how long the car had been on the lot (2 days) and who had test drove it before I bought it (It was brought up from another dealer on the southside of Indy)...

When I went to check out the car initially, it was re-assuring to see the foam padding on the front and rear bumpers and still some of the white plastic covering on the rear deck part. I don't think it's too appealing to potential buyers to see the factory temp coverings on a car they are test driving. I was sorta surprised the Honda person who migrated the car up to the dealer I bought it from hadn't removed the rest of that crappy plastic and foam. But hey, if you do that all day and work with hondas, its prob a dime a dozen and they could care less what the car looks like while taking it somewhere else.=)

jermy4
11-02-2007, 08:17 PM
Usually the reason they leave the plastic and foam on the cars is so they don't get damaged by test drives. It is fairly easy to get rock chips or bumper scratches if not careful.

BroncoGuy
07-29-2008, 09:05 PM
Just about to purchase a 2008 Accord and am curious about any electronics settings that can be changed. For example, I hate the fact that it locks the doors automatically when you hit a certain speed and then unlocks the drivers side door when it is placed in park. I don't want my car locking the doors for me. My 2004 Toyota Sienna had a way to turn this off. Does the Accord?

stevencrosbie
07-29-2008, 09:39 PM
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18205

That might help.