what synthetec oil should i use?

[noboundaries628]

hey all, i have a 95' accord ex auto trans that has 175k on it. All maintenence has been done. head gasket, water pump, ect. Its time for an oil change and i wanted a maintence free car for probabally another 10k-15k. Which synthetec oil would ya'll recommend?

Thanx

[stevencrosbie]

If it is not running synthetics now, I would not recommend you switch. Synthetics are so good at cleaning an engine out that you will remove dirt particles from a lot of the seals. In this case, you could start a new leak you never had before.


Just use the regular oil in her at this point. If the car has been using synthetic the entire time, then any of them are good. Mobil 1, Penzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, any them are really good.

[popeye]

I've been using Redline products for 10 years now with no issues. I use 10W-30 in the S2000 and the MY00 Accord EX beater car

The wife's MY07 Accord is at 7000 miles and I'll be switching it over next weekend :thmsup:

[Accordlover]

So here's a question for you.

My car, a 96' 2.2 I4 AT has recently had the 90k doen, with all seals and gaskets replaced. Would you consider it safe to switch to synthetic? I mean it is somewhat like having a new engine now seeing as all the seals etc. were replaced.

Opinions?
Tyler

P.S. - I run 5W-30 Castrol GTX Now, if I switch to syntetic I'll switch to Castrol Syntec.

[popeye]

I really won't know why there would be an issue;I had dino oil in my 89 CRX untill 100K and then switched to Redline synthetic and had no issues.

[FallenAngelHIM]

in my most humble opinion, i see no need or use for synthetic oils on a naturally aspirated automobile. however, if using conventional oil, i would use 5W30 for the first 50,000-70,000; then bump it up to 10W30. also, a good brand name oil is better than generic goodyear crap.

synthetic gives minimal gains if any.

[SSMV6]

I really won't know why there would be an issue;I had dino oil in my 89 CRX untill 100K and then switched to Redline synthetic and had no issues.
The difference is, if you start off with synthetic early, then it's ok to continue to use synthetic because there wouldn't be as much deposits in your engine from the dino oils. Synthetic cleans your engine internals better than dino oil so it may cause your engine to leak oil/ generate more blowby if you put it in later in its life.

FallenAngel, I had no idea Goodyear makes oil! I've never seen it before. They probably rebadge oil made by another company (like the Motor Trend oils and filters). :dunno:

[Egon]

Man, if 'Motor Trend: The Oil' is anything like 'Motor Trend: The Magazine', I wouldn't want it anywhere near my car. :D

[BenjiBoy650]

Man, if 'Motor Trend: The Oil' is anything like 'Motor Trend: The Magazine', I wouldn't want it anywhere near my car. :D
:lmao: True that :thumbsup:

[kobalt]

Amsoil seems to definately have the best credentials. Have used it for 15 years with no problems and will be using it in my 2007 EXL.

[RTexasF]

As pointed out changing to synth at that mileage may or may not lead to some seeping/leaks, it's your call. Brand isn't terribly important but Pennzoil Platinum is a very good one and priced right if you decide to go that route. I would leave it alone and continue with what you have been using.

[namegoeshere]

^ From all the reading I've done over at BITOG, seems like Pennzoil Plat is very very good. Some even say it's better than Mobil 1 Synth.

[hopes I didn't start a PP vs. M1 war :paranoid: ]

[turBeau]

I'm running Shell Rotella-T 5w-40 syn. It gets pretty toasty here in Texas plus this is the weight of oil ran over seas in these motors.

[honda761]

I just bought 5 quarts for 18.97 of PP at Walmart. I would have stayed with Castrol Syntec but at that price I couldnt pass it up.

[RTexasF]

I'm running Shell Rotella-T 5w-40 syn. It gets pretty toasty here in Texas plus this is the weight of oil ran over seas in these motors.


Way too heavy and just not needed but your choice. Replace it with 0W20 and watch your MPG climb and performance increase with no longevity issues.

[turBeau]

Way too heavy and just not needed but your choice. Replace it with 0W20 and watch your MPG climb and performance increase with no longevity issues.

I would love to use 20 weight oil, its just so paper thin. I can only imagine how thin it gets when warmed. Makes me think that it'll burn off faster, too.

[RTexasF]

Do some reading on Bobistheoilguy. You'll find that your fears are unfounded. I'm not saying what oil you should use just offering that the Honda folks might know what they're talking about and the 20 weight oils are more than holding their own even in V-10 trucks that tow for a living.

[turBeau]

I just feel that the 20 weight is used in the states b/c of CAFE. If it wasn't used then the 5w-40 part synthetic would be standard as it is in Japan. JMO

[SpudGun]

I just put 5w20 mobil1 in my 01 accord at 84k. I had been using regular oil before. I have had the oil in for 1.2k miles and have seen no problems. The oil still seems clean when i check the dipstick. Before i changed the oil tho, i did an oil flush with BG109. The flush dissolves the varnish and other gunk in that has built up in the crankcase. I plan on keeping the mobil1 in my engine for about 9k miles and just changing the filter/topping off the oil every 3k.

[RTexasF]

I just put 5w20 mobil1 in my 01 accord at 84k. I had been using regular oil before. I have had the oil in for 1.2k miles and have seen no problems. The oil still seems clean when i check the dipstick. Before i changed the oil tho, i did an oil flush with BG109. The flush dissolves the varnish and other gunk in that has built up in the crankcase. I plan on keeping the mobil1 in my engine for about 9k miles and just changing the filter/topping off the oil every 3k.

It is advised that you go only 5K initially especially after using a solvent flush.

[RTexasF]

I've been using AMSOIL now for 3 years and the results have been impressive. I use the synthetic motor oil and the EaO filters and change my oil only twice a year. My gas mileage has improved and the engine purrs like a kitten. As for who is the best, AMSOIL hired an independent lab to compare its motor oil to 10 competitors, including Mobil 1 Extendend Performance. AMSOIL was the best in six of the seven tests performed. Seems pretty cut and dry to me. Check it out for yourself:
[url]http:// / link removed


They do make top notch oils but their propaganda is far from conclusive to me. If Mobil, Castrol, whoever, did the testing they would, of course, come out on top. I take it you are an Amsoil dealer, eh?

[turBeau]

I take it you are an Amsoil dealer, eh?

What made you guess that? :D

I might take you up on the Motorcraft 5w-20 part synthetic on the next change. :yes: What are you getting mileage wise around half a tank? With the 5w-40 Rotella synthetic, I've managed 260 miles on a half tank. Granted I'm only @ 6k and an auto but maybe someone else will chime in.

[EX-L_KABONG]

What made you guess that? :D

I might take you up on the Motorcraft 5w-20 part synthetic on the next change. :yes: What are you getting mileage wise around half a tank? With the 5w-40 Rotella synthetic, I've managed 260 miles on a half tank. Granted I'm only @ 6k and an auto but maybe someone else will chime in.

I wouldn't go by the fuel gauge...not at all. It just doesn't work out correctly, i.e. it's not linear. Measure the miles traveled per tank divided by the # of gallons needed to fill it up. Then do the same way over several tankfuls. That's the most accurate way to do it. I consistently get 200 to 250 miles per half-tank, but usually the low fuel light comes on between 350-375 miles, occasionally 400 miles.

Motorcraft 5W-20 is an excellent synthetic blend, highly regarded on BITOG. I use it in my 2.3L Duratec in the Escape and used to use it on the Accord V6 before I switched to PP 5W-20.

[turBeau]

usually the low fuel light comes on between 350-375 miles, occasionally 400 miles.

Wow... I don't know if I want to go back to 5w-20 or not by those miles. I'm @ ~ 6100 miles and my low fuel light just came on w/ this tank @ 435 miles. This is my 1st tank w/ the 5w-40 synthetic, too.

Are other 4 banger/Auto guys recording this kind of miles when the low fuel light comes on?

[MotorCity Honda]

Wow... I don't know if I want to go back to 5w-20 or not by those miles. I'm @ ~ 6100 miles and my low fuel light just came on w/ this tank @ 435 miles. This is my 1st tank w/ the 5w-40 synthetic, too.

Are other 4 banger/Auto guys recording this kind of miles when the low fuel light comes on?


Sounds about right to me... I'm running m1 and seeing this with a lil' romping on the pedal once and a while....

[EX-L_KABONG]

Turbeau, remember that mine is the V6, not the 4-cylinder. I only posted my miles to show the non-linear nature of the fuel gauge, not to show actual fuel economy. I average 28.2 mpg over the last 21 fillups. All have been on 5W-20, about the first half Motorcraft and the last half PP. I've noticed a *slight* increase with the PP (maybe 1 mpg). But part of that could be partly due to the switch from winter- to summer-blend fuels.

[phoenix]

Wow... I don't know if I want to go back to 5w-20 or not by those miles. I'm @ ~ 6100 miles and my low fuel light just came on w/ this tank @ 435 miles. This is my 1st tank w/ the 5w-40 synthetic, too.

Are other 4 banger/Auto guys recording this kind of miles when the low fuel light comes on?

435?? Wow, that's great! Not me, I do mostly city driving and rather spirited at that. During the summer I hover around 350 miles before the fuel light comes on. In the winter, it's more like 315. When I use a full tank of highway driving I get 400 but never have I gotten to 435. I am running Mobil1 5w30 and 89 octane Shell gasoline.

[Technilube]

I may be opening a can of worms here, but figured, why not. :) First off, I'll admit it, I am an Amsoil Direct Dealer, but was a user longer before ever becoming a Dealer and have several customers the same way. The lab tests that are mentioned were done by Southwest Research Institute, one of the major fluid testing facilities. They do testing for the military and many of the major lubrication companies. All the tests can be reproduced by anyone using the proper ASTM testing parameters. If Castrol, Mobil, etc. want to do the same testing, the tests should come out to be the same. Each test is performed multiple times to ensure the results aren't just a fluke. And if the listed results are false advertising, then I'm sure we would have heard of many lawsuits against Amsoil by these companies and the FTC for false advertising, etc. As pointed out, Amsoil didn't come in #1 in every test, and this is the case in many of the tests Amsoil prints results on. But what they are trying to show is the overall performance. And they aren't afraid to show the results; they are proud of the products the make. They must be doing something right, since their sales results for Feb-Mar of this year increased 72% from the same time in 06. Watch for a new report probably this month where they had Southwest Research test the GL5 Gear Lubes out there and every single brand tested failed at least one test. This is expected to shake up the gear lube industry since they more or less self regulate themselves when they put out a product claiming to meet the GL5 specs. Onward....

As for the 40 weight oil, I would hesitate from that as well. If the engine once was rated for the 5W-30 you should run that. You can run the 40 weight if you are having any leaking issues, but you might experience a loss in MPG and possibly a slight temperature increase. When they switched over to 5W-20 the engines never changed, it was to squeeze that extra MPG from the engine, and it has worked. I have heard, though, that a lot of the newer Japanese engines are running tighter tolerances, so the 20 weight really is needed, and to not use thicker oil. If you engine is an older model that originally ran the thicker oil, you should have no issues. I've been running the Series 2000 0W-30 in my wife's 02 Accord now for years, and oil analysis always shows it performing well. This is the same engine (the 4-cyl) that her 98 had which ran 5W-30. Next oil change I will probably switch her to the new 0W-20 that came out earlier this year but after I did her last change. BTW, I do run the extended one year drain every year on her car.

Don't fear using the newer 20 weight oils out there now, at least not the name brand ones, they have come a long way. Early on I did hear stories of engines showing signs of wear using this oil especially lower grade versions of it, after 100K. But everyone has a little more experience now that this oil has been out for several years. When we compared the new Amsoil 0W-20 specs to the 5W-30 specs, they are very close, which means both of these oils provide nearly the same performance. I'm sure many of the other brands out there are similar now as well.

I do believe in synthetics, but there is no argument that if you use petroleum and change it regularly you probably won't have any problems. But the synthetic is added security should something go wrong. Blow a radiator hose and or loose your coolant somehow, then the only thing cooling your engine is the oil which could save from an even more costly repair. Dino oils will breakdown from heat faster than a synthetic, especially a PAO based synthetic. Most synthetics are a Group III petroleum, so while they are a little better in spec numbers, they still suffer the same breakdown temps a standard petroleum does once the additive package they have get used up.

Using synthetic in a higher mileage vehicle isn't much of an issue if it has been taken care of, and I'd feel pretty confident with the member who replaced all his seals. It is true that synthetics tend to clean an engine better than a standard petroleum. The Group III synthetics, not as much, since they are basically petroleum to begin with and the additive package would be doing the cleaning. A PAO, or Group IV, oil will clean better and a Group V even more so, but probably isn't the best choice for daily driving. Most all oils now have additives to help keep seals pliable and aid in seal swell. When a synthetic cleans these seals, it could expose a bad one, but if it's minor enough, it may even help to refurbish the seal enough to close back up. If not, then that seal needed replacing anyway. So it won't cause leak, but it could reveal one. Also you might experience blowby. These is when the deposits around the rings come loose and are cleaned. Oil will disappear, but keep adding oil, and it should eventually stop when the rings are free and reseat. I converted an old 89 Ford E150 van with 95K I bought. I ran our flush through it and then put in 10W-30. The first week all was fine, the second I lost 2 quarts, the third was okay again, then the fourth week another quart vanished, after that I had no more problems. Looking back now, I would probably use a 10W-40 to help slow the consumption. If you plan on running extended drains, I wouldn't do it on an initial conversion and cleaning like that. Run the oil the normal interval, or maybe twice as long, but make sure to check the oil that you do not see any deposits in it, this probably means the filter is full already as the oil continues cleaning (provided it's a good filter) in which case put a new filter on. Then when you reach that change interval, switch everything and go for those extended drains if you use them and the oil warrants it for them.

Probably a long post when I hit enter, but hopefully it will help some here.

Mike

[ronK]

Sorry to change the subject a little; however, my 30000 miles is coming on my 06, i've regularly changed the oil every 5000 miles with regular castrol gtx. so now i'm thinking about switching to synthetic, i know that some of you said that i should just stick with regular although synthetic might offer a protection. is it too late to change it to synthetic and i should just do my regulars? or can i switch to synthetic and start using synthetic from now on? also..i know that i need to change my transmission fluid, CAF, and just check the hoses and all. anything else? o yah...do ceramic brakes really offer a better option? a friend that works at honda told me 'no' and i should just use regular honda brakes. suggestion?

[RTexasF]

You can change to synth right now and continue with it without question. I don't know enough about ceramic pads to answer that one but here are my thoughts...... They are generally for ultra high performance and resist fading. Personally I can't see that a daily driver warrants the expense.

[RTexasF]

Technilube,

Very well written. You have renewed my faith in Amsoil dealers. Most spout BS or bluff answers they don't know. It's nice to see facts instead of going off the deep end about Amsoil. Being originally from San Antonio I am very familar with Southwest Research having grown up just a few miles from them. It is renowned as one of the best facilities of its type on the planet.

[alpha]

Anyone here know exactly which oils are still PAO? I've read some on BITOG, and from the impressions I've read, it seems that Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, and maybe M1 are. At least, people state that M1 could be Group III now.

Is there certain viscosities to look for?

I currently run PP 5w20 in the Accord. I'm thinking about trying M1 5w20 to see which one I like better. I may also try M1 0w20.

I'm also thinking about trying some GC 0w30 if I can find it in my dad's 4Runner. Is the GC worth it over say, M1 5w30?

[buster]

Hi, it's been awhile since I've posted here. I wouldn't focus on any one additive or base oil, something I see people do all the time in BITOG. It's the end performance that matters. Take Schaeffer's as an example. Excellent oil that is a Group II/PAO blend. Wouldn't use it for very long drains, but it is a very capable oil.

I currently am running Amsoil 0w-20, which is a PAO/Ester based oil. Amsoil uses mutliple base oils (some times up to 5-7 different base stocks) to achieve the best performance. I've been a member on BITOG for about 4 years now?? and IMHO Amsoil is making the best oils they have ever made. Since they went to the API SM additive chemistry, their oils are showing outstanding results. No more thickening from oxidation that was once present in their older SL formulas.

The 0w-20 has been the best oil I've used in terms of mpg and smoothness. It's low Noak of 8.6% also curbs oil consumption although my car has consumed EVERY brand of oil the same. (1/2qt per 5k miles). I avg. 100 miles a day round trip commute @ 80mph. I think this has something to do with it.

PP is probably the best oil overall right now from a price/performance stand point. It uses Shell's XHVI Group III base with a proprietary additive package. Terry Dyson is a big fan of it. Holds up very well. It also does contain some Group V ester base oil.

My issue with M1 is not the fact that it now contains significant group III content, but the poor UOA's I've seen with it. Higher Fe, oil consumption and noise are common problems. Remember though that not all grades of M1 are the same. It used to be all M1 grades were Group IV/V based. Now I believe on the 0w-40 and maybe 0w-20 are PAO/V. Others are a blend. Making a good oil is like making a cake. You have to have all the ingredients in proper amounts for it to come out right. Same can be said with oil formulating.

[EX-L_KABONG]

Buster, good to see you back. I was beginning to think you didn't like me/us any more. :(

I didn't know PP had any Group V in it any more. I thought from what Johnny said the base was 100% GIII besides the additive pack, but I may have just misunderstood. At any rate, I'm with you in that it performs very well from all the UOA's I've seen. Like you said too, too many people focus solely on the base oil and not enough on the add pack, but no doubt the Shell XHVI base is top notch as is their add pack apparently.

I'll be sending in my first sample of PP this week to Blackstone, after my second run with it, which was 6600 miles. Very anxious to see the results. You may have seen my recent thread on BITOG about it.

Anyway, welcome back.

[stevencrosbie]

I haven't been reading the BITOG forums much anymore...but is that really true that the M1 is not yielding the best UOAs?

I've seen in walmart that the PP is getting closer to the price of M1 as the M1 is only $21 for 5 qts....

[buster]

Thanks KABONG. I believe PP does contain Group V also but the majority is Shell group III XHVI which is a really good Group III. Honestly guy's, it's hard to justify the boutique brands anymore since API Sm has been a significant improvement in quality. All oils today are excellent and can handle 7k mile drains. My car uses 1/2qt every 5k miles so I am thinking of going back to conventional at some point as it becomes expensive to keep adding make up oil with amsoil. :)

[Huffer]

hey all, i have a 95' accord ex auto trans that has 175k on it. All maintenence has been done. head gasket, water pump, ect. Its time for an oil change and i wanted a maintence free car for probabally another 10k-15k. Which synthetec oil would ya'll recommend?

Thanx

Wrong question to ask - no such thing as a maintenance free for 10-15k - you should do oil changes every 3-5k, depending on climate, type of driving.

Switching to a full synth oil won't prevent the long-term need to do an oil change every 3-5k. Not even Mobil 1 long life or whatever it's called.

[RTexasF]

Switching to a full synth oil won't prevent the long-term need to do an oil change every 3-5k. Not even Mobil 1 long life or whatever it's called.

You are voicing an opinion with no facts to back it up and are totally incorrect. All one needs to to is go to Bobistheoilguy forums and look at the used oil analysis'. There are hundreds (if not more) of intervals of 10,000 + miles on the same oil & filter filter with stellar results. That is science not opinion. There are many many variables and that length is obviously not right for all.

If someone wants to change their oil every other week I sure don't care but don't preach 3K oil changes as a MUST to others, it is no longer gospel as it was 20 years ago.

[Huffer]

You are voicing an opinion with no facts to back it up and are totally incorrect. All one needs to to is go to Bobistheoilguy forums and look at the used oil analysis'. There are hundreds (if not more) of intervals of 10,000 + miles on the same oil & filter filter with stellar results. That is science not opinion. There are many many variables and that length is obviously not right for all.

If someone wants to change their oil every other week I sure don't care but don't preach 3K oil changes as a MUST to others, it is no longer gospel as it was 20 years ago.

:lol:

You're talking about current age oils and current gen vehicles. What about the vehicle that was built in 1998?

I have the same facts that you do, and those facts state that engine and car manufacturers STILL publish that oil changes should be done every 3-5 (ok, MAYBE 6k) DEPENDING on age of vehicle, driving conditions etc.

It might be my opinion, but it's my opinion based on experience, science, facts and the fact that I'd rather spend a few more dollars per year to ensure the lifeblood of my engine is in good condition than skimp a bit on an oil change. It costs me $22 and 35mins of my time.

Do what you want, but all my cars have over 100k on them and I have two that are heading toward 200k.:thmsup:

[benjamming]

1998? That's a pretty new car in overall terms. I thought you were going to say 1965 or 1973. Take a gander at bobistheoilguy.com and look at all the used oil analysis. Have you done that yet? If you haven't then you don't have the same facts (term is really thrown out way too much). BTW, many car manufacturers recommend > 3-5k (or 6k) mile oil change intervals i.e. BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Honda, etc. It really boils down to engine design, service, and final oil formulation quality.

In regards to your last line, you have not shown cause and effect only anecdotal evidence. In other words, would you have the same results with longer oil change intervals or caused damage of any sort? Many people do as referenced above.

Counterpoint to you: Why not change every 1k miles as was the norm until Kendall (?) started promoting 2k mile oil change intervals.

[Huffer]

1998? That's a pretty new car in overall terms. I thought you were going to say 1965 or 1973. Take a gander at bobistheoilguy.com and look at all the used oil analysis. Have you done that yet? If you haven't then you don't have the same facts (term is really thrown out way too much). BTW, many car manufacturers recommend > 3-5k (or 6k) mile oil change intervals i.e. BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Honda, etc. It really boils down to engine design, service, and final oil formulation quality.

In regards to your last line, you have not shown cause and effect only anecdotal evidence. In other words, would you have the same results with longer oil change intervals or caused damage of any sort? Many people do as referenced above.

Counterpoint to you: Why not change every 1k miles as was the norm until Kendall (?) started promoting 2k mile oil change intervals.

Sure, I only have anecdotal evidence because I refuse to run the risk (however you want to calculate that) of overextending my oil change intervals from 3-6k (as I stated earlier that manufacturers STILL recommend that interval for oil changes).

I wouldn't know if overextending my oil change intervals have damaged the motors - because I simply don't do it. The UOA's are great - and yes I do read bobistheoilguy for those things. I've had UOA's done on my oil also, a long time ago on the same cars listed in my signature.

Its simply about making sure the bad oil is changed often enough. Oil doesn't go black/bad by itself - the metallic particles and debris from the inside of your engine contribute a great deal.

But hey - you run it your way, I'll run it mine. When Honda releases an engine that says "oil changes every 10k" then I'll change it every 10k. Until then, I change every 3-6k depending on engine, driving style and environmental conditions. And I will continue to advise others on doing the same if their engines require changing oil in regular intervals.

Shoot, would you run a track day on old oil?

[benjamming]

But Honda has released an engine that says oil changes every 10k miles. On top of that, they say oil filter change every other oil change.

[VTECaddict]

yes, "normal" duty for the K-series 4 cyl engines have been 10,000 miles. V6's have been 7500 (going by our 04 accord, 03 CRV and 03 pilot). thats using non-synthetic. but now they've gone to the maintenance minder so theres no hard set OCI.

[Huffer]

But Honda has released an engine that says oil changes every 10k miles. On top of that, they say oil filter change every other oil change.

Great, then when I get a brand new engine from Honda that says that, then that's what I'll do. :thmsup:

[VTECaddict]

umm, you already have it in your 03 Honda Accord LX I4, 5MT with 136k driven by Mrs Huffer.

[stevel]

Great, then when I get a brand new engine from Honda that says that, then that's what I'll do. :thmsup:

your owner's manual for your '03 should say that.

[Huffer]

umm, you already have it in your 03 Honda Accord LX I4, 5MT with 136k driven by Mrs Huffer.

You know what they say about assumption, right? :lol:

I have the owners manual open right here, page 253 maintenance schedule for 4cyl models.

Every 5000 miles it tells me to "Do item in A."
Item A = replace engine oil.

According to the maintenance schedule, I should replace the filter every 10,000.
:thmsup:

[VTECaddict]

look at the "normal" service schedule, not "severe".

[Calamity Coyote]

:lol:

You're talking about current age oils and current gen vehicles. What about the vehicle that was built in 1998?

I have the same facts that you do, and those facts state that engine and car manufacturers STILL publish that oil changes should be done every 3-5 (ok, MAYBE 6k) DEPENDING on age of vehicle, driving conditions etc.

It might be my opinion, but it's my opinion based on experience, science, facts and the fact that I'd rather spend a few more dollars per year to ensure the lifeblood of my engine is in good condition than skimp a bit on an oil change. It costs me $22 and 35mins of my time.

Do what you want, but all my cars have over 100k on them and I have two that are heading toward 200k.:thmsup:

Hmmmm........ 1995 Ranger. 330,000+ miles. Original motor. Original Trans. Original clutch. Original timing. OCI's @ 25,000 miles with filter changes @ 12,500. Severe service due to hauling continuous weight and driving in Texas heat. All with Amsoil synthetic oils. Still runs. Just my experienced based opinion on synthetics......With an older car.

[Huffer]

look at the "normal" service schedule, not "severe".

Again, you guys just don't read.

change every 3-6k depending on engine, driving style and environmental conditions.

[Huffer]

Hmmmm........ 1995 Ranger. 330,000+ miles. Original motor. Original Trans. Original clutch. Original timing. OCI's @ 25,000 miles with filter changes @ 12,500. Severe service due to hauling continuous weight and driving in Texas heat. All with Amsoil synthetic oils. Still runs. Just my experienced based opinion on synthetics......With an older car.

That's awesome! :thmsup:
Do you use OEM filters?

[Calamity Coyote]

That's awesome! :thmsup:
Do you use OEM filters?

Amsoil oil filters as well.

[Huffer]

Amsoil oil filters as well.

Out of interest, how well do Amsoil filters work? Did you find they trapped more particles?

[benjamming]

I haven't seen any actual filtration testing on the new Amsoil oil filters, has anyone else? Spicer's test results didn't show the old Amsoil filters to be all that. I do believe the new ones are pretty darn good, but I don't know of any tests to show a ranking. That would be good info.

[Calamity Coyote]

Out of interest, how well do Amsoil filters work? Did you find they trapped more particles?

I personally have not done any testing of my filters to see how they rated compared to the others. I do remember reading about them when I first started using them back in 96'-97' and I seem to remember them rating very well. I'm sure this data has changed on then especially since they have upgraded them in the past couple of years. Maybe Technilube could shed some data or numbers on that question.

We have a mechanic shop at my work and I have just sent out my first oil change sample for analysis on the Accord with 10k miles on the oil. I’m still waiting for the results on it. Our mechanic looked at it before he sent it out and was very surprised. He commented that most oils that he has seen were almost water like consistency after only one day in a motor. My sample oil still had a nice consistency and was not runny.

Oh, and before anyone says it, NO I am NOT a dealer. I am however, a preferred customer which is just as good. I get the same pricing as the dealers only I can't sell it for profit. I have thought about upgrading to dealer status but I just don't know if I would have the time or resources to put in to it to be worth it.

[Huffer]

We have a mechanic shop at my work and I have just sent out my first oil change sample for analysis on the Accord with 10k miles on the oil. I’m still waiting for the results on it. Our mechanic looked at it before he sent it out and was very surprised. He commented that most oils that he has seen were almost water like consistency after only one day in a motor. My sample oil still had a nice consistency and was not runny.

I noticed the same thing after running Castrol Syntec 5w20 for 4000miles - the oil was of a similar viscosity to when it was poured in, albeit quite a bit darker and a tad thicker. I have a feeling I could have let the car go for another 1-2k before it reached the same levels of particle contamination as my Subaru.
AC Delco filters.

[Calamity Coyote]

The Castrol Syntec is not a bad choice IMO. It's what I use to run before I got turned on to the Amsoil. I've got an old 89' Festiva that only ran on Castrol Syntec and it has around 180k "registered", the speedo cable broke and it ran for several thousand without it before getting it fixed, sitting in the back yard.

I pulled it out last summer to see about getting it running again. All was well until I tried to start it up and didn't know that dirt dobbers had made a nest inside the timing belt cover. A couple of turns then "BOOM" snapped the cam gear right off the shaft. The dirt got between the belt and the gear. Luckily I had picked up another Festiva from a friend of mine who had totaled it for spare parts. Simply went out to it and pulled the whole head and swapped them out. When we pulled the broken one off of the 89', it was clean as could be inside. No signs of wear on the cylinder walls and no sludge. I was pretty impressed. Especially after sitting back there for over 10 years. :lmao:

[stevencrosbie]

The Ford Festiva is a great and very reliable car. Car was made by Kia and the engine is a Mazda 323 engine....not bad if you ask me....on of the best Fords for reliability :)

[VTECaddict]

^^ figures that one of the most reliable fords is not really a ford. :lmao:

[Calamity Coyote]

^^ Somehow I knew that one was coming. :lmao::lmao:

[gtspaceii]

Speaking of Motor Oil...not sure if anyone said anything on this thread about this because I didin't truly read all the posts (just scanned):

Has anyone thought about using Royal Purple in their engines? I know it's a synthetic motor oil; I've seen automotive TV shows that use the stuff and the small Hp gains they get (I know, Hp gains from oil will probably be so small that I might not notice). Maybe, better gas mileage? :dunno: ...I could probably get that with other synthetic oils...just asking about Royal Purple motor oil...

[chanke4252]

I use royal purple. It definately felt a lot more silky immediately after a change than the synthetic blend that I was used to. There may have been a slight increase in torque, but butt dyno results are misleading and my gut tells me that there probably wasn't any real significant gain in power from just an oil change. Just go with a decent quality 5w20, but if you like using the good stuff on your car then shell out for royal purple or something else equally overpriced.

[Conundrum]

I just put in Amsoil 5w30 synth yesterday, and the engine does seem a bit smoother quieter. Will have to see what my MPG is like over time.

[thefourth]

I've got just about 250,000 from M1 10w-30 and until reading this thread swore by it. Now I find myself asking the question if I put M1 5w-20 into my brand new '07... What is pricing like on the Amsoil 5w20 oil?
I KNOW that I will discontine using Fram filters though, thanks to another thread around here somewhere.

[RTexasF]

To get the best buy on Amsoil you need to join (pay) to be a preferred customer. Their premium 0W20 is easily going 15K miles in Honda engines judging by the Used Oil Analysis section of Bobistheoilguy. They also have several Amsoil sponsors there where you can get personalized service as opposed to just ordering from who knows where. Look up and PM Buster who has a spectacular UOA with 0W20 Amsoil. He might be able to offer more suggestions.

[turBeau]

Hey RTF, do you ever worry about the 0w-20 thinning too much under hard acceleration or spirited driving? I still can't convince myself to buy it although I know how crucial thin oil is @ start up. I just wonder how hard the oil is pushed or are people's UOA's on bitog just casual driving for fuel efficiency?

[RTexasF]

No I don't. Mine sees redline more than many and I don't give it a second thought. It's still a 20 weight oil if it begins with a five or a zero.

The UOA's on Bob show varying driving styles just like all of America. Buster drives a lot of highway which is a best case scenerio for oil longevity.

I'm driving so little now that I only change oil annually.