Disclaimer: I was helped by a Radio Repair Tech. Please if anyone follows this tutorial; Follow it at your own risk. I will not be responsible for any damage that might happen during this tutorial.

SORRY FOR THE PICTURE QUALITY. I WAS USING MY CELL PHONE FOR THE PICTURES. NOT BAD FOR A SONY ERCCSON W810I.

This Tutorial is Based on a 04 Accord EX 6-CD Stock Radio.

Well, I had the same problem as most in this forum regarding the 03-04 Accord EX radio display to go blank. I called American Honda, and they gave me this long story of how it’s a issue with this kind of sterios. They WILL NOT REPLACE MY RADIO :thumbsdow because my car is way out of warranty. They wanted $1,200.00 to replace the radio or $700.00 to just replace the rear part. So, I called up a friend of mine to see if he can help me. We found out that there is a small resistor on the radio that burns out, that the one that sends power to the front panel. Here is my experience with fixing the problem.

Problem:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/9.jpg

I did not make a tutorial on how the Stock radio is removed because there are quite some few out there. Plus, it’s easy just to search for it.

Once you have your stock radio off, remove the (4) screws that hold the radio. There are (2) on each side.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/2.jpghttp://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/1.jpg

Remove the (2) screws on the back of the radio.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/14.jpg

Remove the (8) screws that holds the heat sink together.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/8.jpg

Flip the radio to its front side, and remove the (2) screws.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/7.jpg

Pry open the bottom cover carefully. Its not hard to remove and use a flat head screwdriver.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/6.jpghttp://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/5.jpg

Now that you have the heat sink and the bottom plate off, BE VERY CAREFULL WITH THE NEXT STEP.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/4.jpg

Remove the ribbon cable from the board. BE CAREFULL WHEN YOU REMOVE IT. Don’t pull hard or you can damage the cable.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/3.jpg

Now look at the radio where the heat sink normally is. You will see set of (3) resisters next to each other. Pay close attention to the middle resister with the number R797. That’s the one you need to fix.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/12.jpg

DO THIS AT YOURE OWN RISK.

I just got small wire cutters and broke the resister off. You don’t need to replace it, but you will like to, you need to buy that resister. Don’t know how much it is or where to buy it. If I can recall, they told me it was a 2.4A resister. All I did was to place a small piece of wire and solder the joints. AKA Jump the connections.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/11.jpg

Here is a picture of how it looks after I jump the connection.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/10.jpg

Now put everything back together, and install the stock radio to your car.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/13.jpg

Enjoy your now working stock radio…. This easy tutorial will save you $$$$. :thmsup:

YEAH!!! My First Tutorial.... :banana:

SEE! I told you guys it was an easy fix, but no one believed me!!

2.4 ohms sounds like it.

I would recommend replacing the resistor. It's there to limit current and too much current is possibly why it burned out.

A resistor is 50 cents or less. A display module is a lot more.

Radio shack should have resistors. If not, order one from mouser or digi-key.

Don't take a chance bridging the resistor. It's there for a reason!

Thanks, We jumped it because he fixed one sterio like this about a year ago, and the lady still has a working sterio. But, as soon as i get a chace i will install this resistor to be safe. The wire we put is small so if too much current runs thought it, it will break the wire. Just like a fuse.

Hope this tutorial will help some fix there sterio.

Wow great post and my first sticky. Figured it deserved it considering all the problems with the earlier 7th gen HUs and the fact that there are people like the OP who are out of warranty and Honda will not help.

Just to add my advice though...like EXLNavi mentioned buy the replacement resistor and put it in place, don't bridge the connections with a wire. Same reason why you shouldn't put a dime or something in a fuse box instead of a fuse. Sure it might work for now, but you're risking other problems down the road for a part that literally only costs cents to replace.

Excellent job!!!! :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup:

You would think Honda would instruct the dealers how to do this fix so they can repair the stereos for even $100 parts/labor - IMO still too expensive but better than a $1,200 swap.

:thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup:

Excellent job!!!! :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup:

You would think Honda would instruct the dealers how to do this fix so they can repair the stereos for even $100 parts/labor - IMO still too expensive but better than a $1,200 swap.

:thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup:

I don't think dealerships have electronic technicians, only automotive techs. They can't fix it.

i am not a electronic guru like some members are on here, but here's a question....

could you use a larger resistor for replacement, to prevent future problems? :dunno:

i am not a electronic guru like some members are on here, but here's a question....

could you use a larger resistor for replacement, to prevent future problems? :dunno:

I'm not one either but I'd figure if you used a larger resistor you would end up sucking too much power from the display/controls. With electronics you want a certain voltage and certain amperage, so you'd want to replace it with the same as it had before. In other words, unless you were sure of what you were putting in, staying with spec is the way to go.

Now this does bring up an interesting concept...what does the newer HUs that do not suffer this problem use? Technically if you used whatever resistor they use you might negate ever having it blow again...

i am not a electronic guru like some members are on here, but here's a question....

could you use a larger resistor for replacement, to prevent future problems? :dunno:

The resistor is there as a sacrifice if higher current runs through than it should saving the display itself. A bigger resistor might let too much current flow before burning itself (I'm assuming by bigger you mean a higher current setting). With that said there could be two problems, something higher up causing current problems and the resistor did it's job, or scenario number two that the resistor is poor quality and it's burning out at a lower current than specified. Your guess is as good as mine on this one :dunno: Only putting in a good quality resistor and seeing down the line if it happens again.

This might be why Honda is replacing the HU instead, the problem is higher up, or as mentioned no electronic techs at the dealership. On the other hand why all the refurbished replacements? Hmmmm...

EDIT: Nice write up and great sticky.

SWEET- Good work!

Here's a link for those curious about resistors...

http://www.doctronics.co.uk/resistor.htm#what

Many auto techs COULD do it, but they aren't allowed to. If they booger it up, then the tech pays for it, not the dealer.


Apparently Honda is not happy with the manufacturer either: :)


ID: AIN34351 (Rev GIN34313)



This message is revised to exclude incorrect dealers and to clarify information regarding returning parts.



To: All Parts and Service Managers

From: Remanufactured Parts Operations

Re: Discontinued Remanufactured Parts: Audio Units



Do Not Return to AHM




As of January 1, 2007, the following parts will no longer be offered as Remanufactured Parts.



Discontinued



P/N
Description

08A50-ED1101RM
CD Player

08A51-ED1100RM
CD Player

8-97222-867-0RM
Audio Tuner

8-97230-011-1RM
Audio RMD

8-97251-336-0RM
Audio Tuner

8-97256-492-0RM
Audio Tuner








Dealers who purchased any of the above parts between October 31, 2006 and December 31, 2006 should return the faulty parts to NK Parts in Sidney, OH.

I figured he was trying to say, bigger resistor = more resistance to current, not bigger resistor allowing more current flow. Sounds like he was taking the name for resistor literally. I could be wrong...

Definitely a good sticky tho!! The first I've seen of a DIY for the radio display problem. I think it would be more helpful tho if we had the correct resistor for the application, like what color bands we would need on the resistor and solder direction if applicable.

Resistor Color Codes are all over the net... For an example, look at Peniole's post or look here...
http://xtronics.com/kits/rcode.htm

I would try to get at least a gold banded resistor (+/- 5% tolerance) or better for the replacement. Un-banded resistors can vary too much in quality and resistance.

Resistors are bidirectional and can be mounted in either direction.

Wow! I didn't think my post would become a Sticky :banana: Thanks.....

A resistor usually has two values associated with it. The resistance and the maximum power (wattage) it can handle in watts.

The general rule of thumb is that you can substitute a higher wattage resistor, but not a lower wattage one. You shouldn't mess with the resistance although in many circuits you can vary it a bit.

In this circuit, a higher wattage resistor would definitely work. But they are bigger and fatter. If it can fit, I say go for it and put a 1/2 watt or even a 1 watt resistor.

But don't change the value of the resistor (in ohms). Putting a lower resistance will cause more current to flow through the circuit, which can cause some other components to burn out prematurely.

Putting a higher resistance will probably not work, as it will limit the current even further than the circuit was designed for.

As for tolerance, any tolerance will do frankly. You don't need a gold banded resistor because this circuit doesn't need critical values. It is not medical equipment nor is it equipment where a slight variation in resistance cause it to malfunction.

Resistor Color Codes are all over the net... For an example, look at Peniole's post or look here...
http://xtronics.com/kits/rcode.htm

I would try to get at least a gold banded resistor (+/- 5% tolerance) or better for the replacement. Un-banded resistors can vary too much in quality and resistance.

Resistors are bidirectional and can be mounted in either direction.


Those resistors in the Accord HU look like chip resistors, which means that they won't have color codes, just numbers.

The problem though is that resistors fail catastrophically and the color codes or other markings tend to get burnt out.

Princess, do you have access to a schematic for the Accord radio? Maybe we can figure out the correct value to save folks some trouble.

Any advice on how to fix stock radio from Honda 96 -- the discplay comes on and off, but it's mostly off (like 95% of the time)?...

Wow! I didn't think my post would become a Sticky :banana: Thanks.....
We've talked about this before and how it was probably a really easy fix if you knew what you were doing. This is a great write up for people that are way out of warranty and get denied a goodwill replacement by their dealership.

Very good job :thmsup:

Welcome to Driveaccord by the way :wave:

I just finished installing my new Sportster4 and was sitting in my car, playing with the remote and something caught my eye... my display went blank on the factory HU!! After 3 years and 71k miles, the display.. err.. resistor.. finally decides to give up.

I would like to attempt the fix described here, but I do not know anything about this kind of stuff. Can anyone provide a link or something so I know where and what to buy? I don't want to buy the wrong item and fry the whole unit.

Why not have it replaced under the new warranty guidelines? :dunno:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9837

Whoa!! I did not know about this. I feel silly now. Thanks for the help Princess! :notworthy

04AccordEX,

I have been putting up with this issue for about 18 months (120K on my '03 EXL).

I'm currently out of town, borrowed a co-workers tools including soldering iron, and got the job done. Man is that a small space to work in! My buddy helped me and we removed the metal "chip-guard" next to the resistor on the board to get a little more space. We removed the chip cleanly as opposed to bridging it and layed down a piece of 24AWG wire.

THANK YOU AGAIN!!

Hi, I Own a 04 Accord and just recently had the black out screen. I followed the FULL detail and procedure but when I plug it back in the radio still would not displace the screen. Its really annoying me. I notice before I did the project when its in direct sunlight or with a flashlight up to the screen I can see it lightly displaying all information. And after I did it the screen still did it only in super direct sunlight or with a flashlight shine directly at it. At night none of the buttons up either even after I redid that resistor. Everything works. Just no screen....... I have an 04 coupe.

maybe the resistor that you replaced is bad, or not properly connected??? :dunno:

welcome aboard... :wave:

maybe the resistor that you replaced is bad, or not properly connected??? :dunno:

welcome aboard... :wave:


Thanks. I am kind of at school so cant introduce myself yet.

But I used 2 2.4 ohms resister total. Last time was straight up jumping it and it still does the same thing.

WOW!!! I've got so many PM, Thanking me for this tutorial. Thank you guy's for keeping this site. It's nice to know that this helps a lot of us Accord Owners.

Ive been gone for some time, but i did changed the resistor to 2.4 ohms... 25 cents at my neighborhood electronics store.

OdAccord, :wave:
Yea, its kind of a small place to solder, but i used a small tip. I did not include the Solder part on my tutorial because a lot of people know how to solder. Plus, I didnt want to make a long tutorial. Not bad for my first .... :thmsup:

For my update. it didnt work. I think its something else. I can see very dim in direct sunlight of the display. And yes I did do the procedure correctly.

My lights just died, but I got a letter from Honda few weeks ago saying the warranty on the radio is extended to 7years/160,000km.
Gonna bring it in this Saturday to get it fixed along with the seat position sensor recall.

I would repace the resistor, like everyone else said , it is current limiting, but I would get a new resistor that is bigger wattage, it looks like that a 1/4w I would put in a a 1 watt or 5 watt, it looks like its just getting over heated, the bigger wattage will stop that problem.

Btw, Honda is no longer replacing the entire radio. They are replacing one board that costs $32.50. So if you are not comfortable soldering surface mount parts, I would imagine you can just replace this board.

Mines a 05 lx (single cd) and all the lights behind the buttons had gone out. At night all I could see was the lcd which was dimmly lit and brightness wouldnt change with the speedo. Dealer said its $850 fix, saw this thread, hmm if lcd is thru the cd unit may be the lights are too. Had a 04 cd unit lying around gave it shot and the whole panel came back to life. thanks alot i love you man. Sense of touch is back to hibernate

My Accord was out of warranty and my local Honda dealer replaced the stereo free of charge under their goodwill policy because it is a known defect. I also gave them a copy of the TSB describing the known defect.

Is there a similar fix for radio not producing any sound? Everything else works great in my radio except there is no audio.

Thanks

wow!!!! their's sumbody on craigslist from new york asking $100 to fix this known 03 accord radio issue.... "he must be making a killing" im deff fixing my radio a.s.a.p .... i openned it twice neva saw this burn resistor, but then again from the pic it doesn't look burned.... thankZ guy!!!!....u know wat !!! i was helping my ex car shopping, she wants a tsx and they happen too have the same radio issue...

Btw, Honda is no longer replacing the entire radio. They are replacing one board that costs $32.50. So if you are not comfortable soldering surface mount parts, I would imagine you can just replace this board.



$32.50 ???? nah they wont even sale the board.. my buddy works @ the local honda ... i tried getting it covered under that extended warranty but i was over by 1000miles...i asked if they sold the board n they told me no... honda is only replacing if covered under warranty

Actually $100 for an experienced tech to do SMD work is not too bad considering. I recently had a piece of audio electronics quoted for repair at about 2 hours of bench time, min of $50, estimate of 2 hours @ 100 a hour. I ended up buying the chips and doing it myself.


Honda replacing the radio for free seems to be the best, but if honda says no and you want to try the repair here are some things I learned doing SMD work.

Part: KOA makes great surface mount resistors. Radio shack is pretty poor quality but id guess it would work.
http://mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=RK73B2BTTD2R4J

In terms of soldering surface mount chips. Unless you have a hot air rework station, my suggestion for resistors is to follow the original directions to cut the resistor off, then solder on a replacement. trying to desolder the old resistor would be hard. If you are not careful with solder iron wattage and technique you can easily pull up a trace on the board if your trying to desolder the original.

When replacing the chip use a tweezer to hold the new smd chip in and solder both sides with a 25 watt or less pencil type iron.

Hi highly dout he is an experienced tech...i bet he's just removing n bridging the connection

Disclaimer: I was helped by a Radio Repair Tech. Please if anyone follows this tutorial; Follow it at your own risk. I will not be responsible for any damage that might happen during this tutorial.

SORRY FOR THE PICTURE QUALITY. I WAS USING MY CELL PHONE FOR THE PICTURES. NOT BAD FOR A SONY ERCCSON W810I.

This Tutorial is Based on a 04 Accord EX 6-CD Stock Radio.

Well, I had the same problem as most in this forum regarding the 03-04 Accord EX radio display to go blank. I called American Honda, and they gave me this long story of how it’s a issue with this kind of sterios. They WILL NOT REPLACE MY RADIO :thumbsdow because my car is way out of warranty. They wanted $1,200.00 to replace the radio or $700.00 to just replace the rear part. So, I called up a friend of mine to see if he can help me. We found out that there is a small resistor on the radio that burns out, that the one that sends power to the front panel. Here is my experience with fixing the problem.

Problem:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/9.jpg

I did not make a tutorial on how the Stock radio is removed because there are quite some few out there. Plus, it’s easy just to search for it.

Once you have your stock radio off, remove the (4) screws that hold the radio. There are (2) on each side.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/2.jpghttp://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/1.jpg

Remove the (2) screws on the back of the radio.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/14.jpg

Remove the (8) screws that holds the heat sink together.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/8.jpg

Flip the radio to its front side, and remove the (2) screws.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/7.jpg

Pry open the bottom cover carefully. Its not hard to remove and use a flat head screwdriver.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/6.jpghttp://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/5.jpg

Now that you have the heat sink and the bottom plate off, BE VERY CAREFULL WITH THE NEXT STEP.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/4.jpg

Remove the ribbon cable from the board. BE CAREFULL WHEN YOU REMOVE IT. Don’t pull hard or you can damage the cable.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/3.jpg

Now look at the radio where the heat sink normally is. You will see set of (3) resisters next to each other. Pay close attention to the middle resister with the number R797. That’s the one you need to fix.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/12.jpg

DO THIS AT YOURE OWN RISK.

I just got small wire cutters and broke the resister off. You don’t need to replace it, but you will like to, you need to buy that resister. Don’t know how much it is or where to buy it. If I can recall, they told me it was a 2.4A resister. All I did was to place a small piece of wire and solder the joints. AKA Jump the connections.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/11.jpg

Here is a picture of how it looks after I jump the connection.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/10.jpg

Now put everything back together, and install the stock radio to your car.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/04AccordEX/Radio%20Repair%20Tutorial/13.jpg

Enjoy your now working stock radio…. This easy tutorial will save you $$$$. :thmsup:

YEAH!!! My First Tutorial.... :banana:

No more pics dude! :scratch:

pics are back up.. sorry..

Awesome! I plan to do the fix when I get a soldering gun. Anybody know where to get a good but cheap one?

04accordex..willing to help me fix mine? I am in corona ca .. I am not very savy at this kinda stuff

I remove SMT parts by holding the iron at an aggle close enough to both traces (or use the right sized iron tip), and adding more solder, to solder-bridge the component. then lifting it off, or use solder-wick. This has to be done vary fast, to not lift, or burn traces.

In canada,

I got my radio fixed from the Honda Dealer, this is a recall for all 7th gens.

I may have missed it, but is this just a fix for the radio display? My entire center console lighting went out. I've checked fuse and it is fine. Radio and climate control work, but no lights. Been so long I now can hit anything I need in the dark, but would be great to be able to see.

lafs0825... I've got the same issue. My radio display is working fine but the button illumination on the buttons on the center console are dead.

lafs0825... I've got the same issue. My radio display is working fine but the button illumination on the buttons on the center console are dead.

Dealer told me that there was a backlight behind the entire thing, but I haven't found anything yet to back that claim up. Think I'm going to try the fix here first... seems a little better then dismantling the dash to discover there is no backlight.

Yeah, I find that hard to believe as well. I stopped into the local dealership and the service writer was surprised that the backlight had gone out on all the buttons. He assumed it was a controller issue.

I've got the resisters on order from Mouser... I'll be tearing my car apart this weekend. I just hope it fixes it.

Well I pulled the radio out and have it torn apart (thanks for the guide).

It doesn't look like my resistor has failed catastrophically. Because my problem is only the button backlights not working (my display does work) I don't think this resistor is causing my issue.

Also, the resistor marked on the circuit board as R797 has markings of "2.3A 239". Which doesn't make any sense based on the resistor codes I've found. I also ordered the SM chips listed earlier in this thread from mouser and they don't look like the resistor that's on the board.

Does anyone know how to read these resistor codes and if there's a way to test the resistor to see if it's really bad?

Dealer told me that there was a backlight behind the entire thing, but I haven't found anything yet to back that claim up.

There is no single backlight behind the fascia for button illumination.

There are LEDs for the button inserts and a few tiny board mounted/soldered globes for the illumination (backlight) around the buttons outlines themselves.

On my 6CD unit these are all part of the HVAC/LCD PCB mounted behind the fascia between the Audio unit and the buttons.

There are a number of lamp and LED signals coming out of the radio to the HVAC / LCD control panel. I have been unable to obtain a full wiring diagram for this or the Radio/CD player so no further info.

My guess is that there are separate regulators for the LCD and button illumination/backlight in the audio head unit.

Just an update...

I used the Radio Warranty Extension pdf (warranty extension 04-027.pdf) to find the part number for the radio circuit board. Turns out there is an internet parts supplier for this circuit board. It was under $200 and comes with a 12 month Honda warranty. I bought the board and installed it and it fixed the button illumination on my 03 accord.

Regarding the 2003 honda accord radio display fix. I tried it but my display went out 4 weeks later. Probably burnt something else out. Best to replace original resistor.I may have to replace my climate control panel also now. Any suggestions would be apreciated.

Did u replace it with the same Wattage resistor? If you used a smaller one, this is the problem. You need the same resistance and at lease the same or more Watts ratings...

Just an update...

I used the Radio Warranty Extension pdf (warranty extension 04-027.pdf) to find the part number for the radio circuit board. Turns out there is an internet parts supplier for this circuit board. It was under $200 and comes with a 12 month Honda warranty. I bought the board and installed it and it fixed the button illumination on my 03 accord.

Can you post the contact of the supplier of the circuit board?
ASAP

i got a few questions.....
i cant tell if this resistor is bad... u cant check for resistance because its still in the board right? secondly, i dont have to take out the resistor even if i want to put a new one on right? since the resistor chip is burnt open, current will go through the new one that i put on??????
correct me if im wrong, thanks

I'd try to measure it...
Unless its across a transformer, or diode, etc - usually you can read them. Especially if its a low Resistance like 100-Ohms. What is the resistor value (Ohms) in question. Likely its open (may show something like 1,000-100,000- (1-100K) Ohms, when it 27-100-Ohms (for example).
Besides getting the correct value resistor (Ohms); also, make sure you replace it with the same or larger WATT rating.

I just had to do this repair on my 2003, died with only 58,000km on it. Unfortunately Honda Canada didn't extend the warranty on the radio's, so it was gonna cost me $75 for a diagnosis fee and $175+tax for the new pcb.

I put a half watt 2.4ohm resistor in after breaking the old resistor out, man that was a tight space to work in!

It's working properly again now though, and only cost me $1 for the resistor. Thanks a lot for the tutorial!

I just had to do this repair on my 2003, died with only 58,000km on it. Unfortunately Honda Canada didn't extend the warranty on the radio's, so it was gonna cost me $75 for a diagnosis fee and $175+tax for the new pcb.

I put a half watt 2.4ohm resistor in after breaking the old resistor out, man that was a tight space to work in!

It's working properly again now though, and only cost me $1 for the resistor. Thanks a lot for the tutorial!

What was the Wattage of the original Resister?

Couldn't tell because it was one of those little chip resistors, i just decided to give a 1/2w a try and if it blew i'd do it again with a 3/4w. The space for the new resistor is pretty tight though, 3/4w is probably the biggest you'd be able to fit in there.