Well, considering there was never a thread with a complete list I figured I post here. Essentially I have a few things I want to install this coming weekend which require the battery to be disconnected from the car. I know I posted about this way back last May, but rather than resurrect a dead thread in a different section, I figured I'd make a new one in case anyone else wants it as well.

IIRC, the following needs to be done:

1. Idle Learn Procedure
-Turn off all electronics, turn ignition to ON for 2 seconds, then start engine.
-Hold engine around 3,000rpm (seems high to me) until the coolant hits the proper temp/cooling fans cycle once.
-Run engine at idle for 5 minutes, not counting any time while the cooling fan is on.

2. Retrain Driver's Window
-Start engine, push and hold switch to put window down until it is open.
-Pull and hold the switch until the window is closed, then hold for 2 more seconds.

3. Enter Radio and Navi code (if equipped)

Also, I remember reading about the CKP test pattern that needs to be done on the V6s, however I can't remember if this is something that gets cleared when the battery is pulled, or can only be cleared via a HDS if there is a reason to clear it...as I don't want to do it if I don't have to do it (don't know if Princess can confirm this with her Prince or not).

CKP:
-Turn ignition to ON and wait 30 seconds.
-Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm to 1,000 rpm with the A/T in 2 position, or M/T in 1st gear.
-Stop the vehicle, but keep the engine running.
-Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 5,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm with the A/T in 2 position, or M/T in 1st gear.
-Stop the vehicle, but keep the engine running.
-Turn off engine
-Turn ignition to ON, wait 30 seconds.

I'm also not sure what this does for someone like me who runs 91 in their V6...My guess is it will take a few more tanks to get it running the correct timing for the gas just as if I had switched from 87...

Oh and I also wanted to give massive props to Princess, as thats where most if not all the information above has come from in the past.

Ive never had to redo the windows, is that an 03-05 thing?

Ive never had to redo the windows, is that an 03-05 thing?
I think it's done for all 7th Gen (03-07) Accords. :dunno:

Ive never had to redo the windows, is that an 03-05 thing?
I've never re-done it either, on my '05...

I think it is some sort of scam to get extra hours on almost every repair bill! Ahhh - HA! We caught 'em

I had to do it on mine

I had to do it on mine


So, does the auto function just stop working until you do?

Never had to do it on mine.

The battery was off for 2 weeks on mine while I was away and all I had to do was enter the navi and radio codes.

Not needed for the TL either as they switched the battery in 30 minutes.

So, does the auto function just stop working until you do?

Yup. It was easy to reset tho so I didn't think it was such a big deal. Didnt realize how many people didnt have to do it.

I would really like to narrow this down to a certain style or model, I have an 03 and about once every 2 weeks my battery comes loose and i have to put in the Navi and radio code which means the ECU resets. I have never had to retrain my car so I wonder if it is a certain year prodcution or model?

I would really like to narrow this down to a certain style or model, I have an 03 and about once every 2 weeks my battery comes loose and i have to put in the Navi and radio code which means the ECU resets. I have never had to retrain my car so I wonder if it is a certain year prodcution or model?

Uh... you should fix that. I can't imagine it's good for your electrical system.

I've never re-done it either, on my '05...
+1
;)

I'm also not sure what this does for someone like me who runs 91 in their V6...My guess is it will take a few more tanks to get it running the correct timing for the gas just as if I had switched from 87...


I reset my ECU after installing my CAI, and my gas milage is complete crap. It cant be this bad from just the CAI, especially since I hadnt floored it for the entire tank to see if the CAI was that bad. Could what oyu have said applied to me, where the timing will adjust after a few tanks and ill get my decent gas milage back?

Could what you have said apply to me, where the timing will adjust after a few tanks and ill get my decent gas milage back?

One can hope. Are you running 87 or 91? Honestly I don't know 100%, as I've read some people pulling the battery before dyno'ing on 91, and if that reset the timing then technically they'd get lower numbers. I know the knock sensor will retard timing if the engine knocks (so if you go 91 to 87), and if that happens it will monitor things for a while before going back up to "91 timing" again. Now, when the battery is pulled and it forgets, I'm not sure if it starts at 91 (as it doesn't remember any knocking), or if it runs on "87 timing" until its sure it can advance things further.

How badly was your MPG affected? Not exactly what I wanted to read a day before I pull my battery to install a few things...lol.

At half a tank, I am usually at the 200 mark, and the last two tanks it was 150 and then 170. I havent made it all the way to gas light yet. So when its usually at the 200 at 1/2 way, I get a little bit over 300 miles to the tank. Since the pull, I dont think it will be anywhere near that. A theory I have though, is that the first time I pulled the batt and reconnected it, I ran it hard because 1) well, I just installed an intake :) , and 2) I remember people saying to drive it hard. I pulled it again yestarday, but let my dad drive it to go pick up my mom at work, which means he drove slow and steady, just like the car was driven when he first bought it 3 years ago, so hopefully this will help. Ill let you know my findings.

I'm resurecting such an old thread!

Tonight I will be disconnecting the battery (only neg. wire as per the instructions) to install fog lights on a 05 V6 6-speed coupe.

Do I really need to do all those steps when I reconnect the battery? I knew I had to re-enter the radio code, but what about the CKP thing? And re-learning idle?

Princess, can you confirm all this?


Well, considering there was never a thread with a complete list I figured I post here. Essentially I have a few things I want to install this coming weekend which require the battery to be disconnected from the car. I know I posted about this way back last May, but rather than resurrect a dead thread in a different section, I figured I'd make a new one in case anyone else wants it as well.

IIRC, the following needs to be done:

1. Idle Learn Procedure
-Turn off all electronics, turn ignition to ON for 2 seconds, then start engine.
-Hold engine around 3,000rpm (seems high to me) until the coolant hits the proper temp/cooling fans cycle once.
-Run engine at idle for 5 minutes, not counting any time while the cooling fan is on.

2. Retrain Driver's Window
-Start engine, push and hold switch to put window down until it is open.
-Pull and hold the switch until the window is closed, then hold for 2 more seconds.

3. Enter Radio and Navi code (if equipped)

Also, I remember reading about the CKP test pattern that needs to be done on the V6s, however I can't remember if this is something that gets cleared when the battery is pulled, or can only be cleared via a HDS if there is a reason to clear it...as I don't want to do it if I don't have to do it (don't know if Princess can confirm this with her Prince or not).

CKP:
-Turn ignition to ON and wait 30 seconds.
-Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm to 1,000 rpm with the A/T in 2 position, or M/T in 1st gear.
-Stop the vehicle, but keep the engine running.
-Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 5,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm with the A/T in 2 position, or M/T in 1st gear.
-Stop the vehicle, but keep the engine running.
-Turn off engine
-Turn ignition to ON, wait 30 seconds.

I'm also not sure what this does for someone like me who runs 91 in their V6...My guess is it will take a few more tanks to get it running the correct timing for the gas just as if I had switched from 87...

Oh and I also wanted to give massive props to Princess, as thats where most if not all the information above has come from in the past.

I'm resurecting such an old thread!

Tonight I will be disconnecting the battery (only neg. wire as per the instructions) to install fog lights on a 05 V6 6-speed coupe.

Do I really need to do all those steps when I reconnect the battery? I knew I had to re-enter the radio code, but what about the CKP thing? And re-learning idle?

Princess, can you confirm all this?

Well, I'm not Princess but I doubt you need to do anything besides entering your radio code. I've had my battery out a # of times for lengthy periods and never had any problem with my idle, driver's window, etc. My car always ran just fine afterwards. Maybe some of these procedures will quicken your car's adaption back to normal, but I've never noticed any issues initially or over time.

After reconnecting the battery, I let the car idle 10 minutes and reentered the radio code...That's it!

The driver auto up/down window was still working...:thmsup:

not to sound like a douche....but instead of doing that one by one like you said in the first post, just drive your car normally and everything will learn by itself

when i ran my code scanner it said i had 5 of 7 readiness codes.

so instead of revving it or doing all that crap above, i drove it normally. took it on the highway sometimes to get better MPG and now i have all 7/7 codes

i think doing that step by step is just a waste of time and you dont really know if its re-learned it unless you have a code scanner as well