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ANC Mic Location?

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#23 ·
yoshi said:
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/19-audio-electronics/32494-disable-anc-2012-2013-pilot-1-2-a.html

Ran across this during more research, the front mic isnt the same as our cars, atleast in the sport. but seems like they found something about anc harness in the headunit. just a thought. ill try to look at it this weekend.
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I'm having the same problem and no one seems to know how to fix it??? You can't upgrade your car audio anymore??? I have been researching this for a few days now and there isn't much info out there. Please let me know if you find out how to disable ANC and still keep HFL...Thank you
 
#24 ·
Good news, I've found a solution to this pain in the a$$ ANC mic issue. I just had my stereo equipment installed this past weekend in my 13 Sport. The ANC mics are located in the front right behind the sunglasses compartment and at the rear of the car on the headliner. What I had done first was the rear ANC mic disconnected, then the front. Now how I disconnected the front ANC mic without losing the HFL mic is something most may not want to do in a brand new car. I popped out the housing for the ANC and HFL mic. Next, I disconnected the clip attached to both mics. When you look at the wires the are wired to the connection clip that connects to both mics, you will see a series of wires(green, purple, pink, and 2 white). The two white wires are the front and rear ANC mics. Both of those wires have to be disconnected by cutting them or however you want to disconnect them. I only one white wire because I had already disconnected the rear prior. So it saved me cutting both. Once I did this, the interference went away you hear coming from the subs. Now, I know the idea of cutting any wires in your brand new car ****s but if you do it right, it's worth it.

On a side note, just in case you may not know, depending on your system setup will depend on how many MPGs you have to sacrifice. I have one 2000w 2 ch for bass and a 250w 4ch for highs. This power it takes to run that equipment is reducing my gas mileage. A gallon of gas has about 140000 btu. Per 1000w constant, it about 3147 btu per gallon. So once you do the math you can see exactly what kind of MPG restriction is being put on your due to your setup. Hope all this info helped.

Btw, as for the ANC mic connections on the back of the headunit, I tried that option but couldn't find a solution. That's why I went with he option I did.
 

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#25 ·
PTG23 said:
Good news, I've found a solution to this pain in the a$$ ANC mic issue. I just had my stereo equipment installed this past weekend in my 13 Sport. The ANC mics are located in the front right behind the sunglasses compartment and at the rear of the car on the headliner. What I had done first was the rear ANC mic disconnected, then the front. Now how I disconnected the front ANC mic without losing the HFL mic is something most may not want to do in a brand new car. I popped out the housing for the ANC and HFL mic. Next, I disconnected the clip attached to both mics. When you look at the wires the are wired to the connection clip that connects to both mics, you will see a series of wires(green, purple, pink, and 2 white). The two white wires are the front and rear ANC mics. Both of those wires have to be disconnected by cutting them or however you want to disconnect them. I only one white wire because I had already disconnected the rear prior. So it saved me cutting both. Once I did this, the interference went away you hear coming from the subs. Now, I know the idea of cutting any wires in your brand new car ****s but if you do it right, it's worth it.

On a side note, just in case you may not know, depending on your system setup will depend on how many MPGs you have to sacrifice. I have one 2000w 2 ch for bass and a 250w 4ch for highs. This power it takes to run that equipment is reducing my gas mileage. A gallon of gas has about 140000 btu. Per 1000w constant, it about 3147 btu per gallon. So once you do the math you can see exactly what kind of MPG restriction is being put on your due to your setup. Hope all this info helped.

Btw, as for the ANC mic connections on the back of the headunit, I tried that option but couldn't find a solution. That's why I went with he option I did.
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YOU SIR ARE A LIFE SAVER, I was trying to find out what wires to cut on that harness. will do this and report back. I see you did quite alot of trial and error. :p
 
#26 ·
Yea I did have to do a little bit of trial and error. It took about 2 hours of research online and searching in my car before I found the solution. Unfortunately I had to have a couple wires cut that didn't need to be in the process but I just had them soldered them back together and heat wrapped to make it look like it came like that. I took my car to a stereo shop in my area. Dude by the name Juan did the work. I assisted him with the research and trouble shooting. He did a great job. Very pleased with the work overall.
 
#27 ·
PTG23 said:
On a side note, just in case you may not know, depending on your system setup will depend on how many MPGs you have to sacrifice. I have one 2000w 2 ch for bass and a 250w 4ch for highs. This power it takes to run that equipment is reducing my gas mileage. A gallon of gas has about 140000 btu. Per 1000w constant, it about 3147 btu per gallon. So once you do the math you can see exactly what kind of MPG restriction is being put on your due to your setup. Hope all this info helped.

Btw, as for the ANC mic connections on the back of the headunit, I tried that option but couldn't find a solution. That's why I went with he option I did.
Click to expand...
Time to upgrade your alternator and or battery to counter these effects?
 
#28 ·
MGP999 said:
Time to upgrade your alternator and or battery to counter these effects?
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I upgraded my battery to a VMax Ct1500. However I still noticed a drop in my MPGs. I think it just has to do with the amount of power your car has to put out in order to power the added equipment. Even with a new alternator, it still may have the same effects. Plus, you have to add the weight of your euipment in too. More weight, more power and energy needed more gas needs to be used in the process. Dont take my word for it, just some basic info that I know. Im sure there is someone that is a complete car audio guru that could tell you everything in the book about how to avoid these problems.

I plan on downsizing my stereo myself to smaller amp, smaller sub. That should help a little bit.
 
#32 ·
yoshi said:
I have Polk audio 651s all around on my 13 sport. with an Alpine amp hooked up to a Alpine type R sub. of course I too have the same exact problem. the polk speakers by themselves do not give the 3 bursts (only when amp/sub is hooked up) assuming its because it falls within the 100hz freq for the ANC system.

I went ahead and unplugged both the harnesses up front and the rear one but car still does the 3 bursts. so it seems like the mics mentioned for 8th gens arent the same on our cars.
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yoshi said:
works like a charm. takes about 5 mins.
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Did that take care of the 3 BURSTS problem?

Just for giggles, when I take possession of my car & I have the time, I plan on running a Sound Calibrating Test Tones CD, with Sine Waves & Warble Tones, I'll check them with a SPL to determine the Frequency Response of the factory audio system + determine exactly what frequency range the ANC is messing with.
 
#34 ·
OK, I have a working setup now.

The smaller white wire up front is for the HFL mic, the larger wire is for the ANC mic. You need to cut the larger white wire and unhook the back mic. Works as expected and I have HFL again :banana:

The front is easy, just cut the larger white wire. The rear is a bit more challenging. Lower the back seat so you have more visibility. Pull the headliner down form the rear window and you will see the mic. Unplug with your hands or a screw driver if you cant reach. Your going to wrinkle the headliner a bit but it will go back to normal.

In the front pic below I noted which wire not to cut since I had to solder mine back together.
 

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#35 ·
Great work guys, this will make my install so much smoother...Thanks for saving me the time of trying to figure out what you have already solved-->:salue:
 
#36 ·
so after the anc is sorted out i have a feeling my polks are being underpowered by the factory amp. how did you guys hook up the 4ch amps? im used to swapping out whole headunits so still a bit confused on where to tap wires before or after the factory amp?
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Update

As others have posted. Finally just cut the front ANC wire and disconnected the back and all works great. HFL works like a charm and stereo sounds better than expected using amps off HU. Final system installed is Alpine SPX 17PRO in the front, SPX17REF in rear deck, Type R 12" shallow sub in trunk, a PDX 4 channel, PDX12 mono, and Alpine PXE660 for factory integration with imprint. I'm loving it and have not found a drop in milage as others have stated. I do have a Stinger 5 farad capacitor though. No big noise increase either without ANC.
 
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