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03 2.4L 4CYL Accord Coupe EX Excessive Oil Consumption issue

30K views 52 replies 24 participants last post by  anders4c 
#1 ·
Hello All Accord owners.

Has anyone had an 03" 4CYL 2.4 L with an over consumption oil issue? Mine consumes a fair bit of oil every two weeks I need to top up the oil. There are no leaks and if does not burn any in the exhaust either. Is this normal with these Honda's? And if so then why? I have a 188,000KM's on it now..Honda claims that it should consume 1.5 L of oil or so...Does not make any sense to me. Would love hear from someone if they have the same problem.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
Well, you need to track how much oil it IS consuming. I think the issue with the Accords is when the dipstick is down to the add oil mark (last mark/dot on dip stick). When it is as this mark the oil is only down by maybe a third of a quart instead of the half/whole quart like the dipsticks of old.

I know mine seemed to use oil (was always at the add oil mark) until I started tracking the amount and found it was only using maybe a half quart per 5000 miles (or 8047KM). If you do your oil change every 10000 miles (16093 km) then you could be using a quart of more.

I started changing my oil at the 5000 mile mark. By then it has used the rest of the gallon (3.8 liter) of oil I had left from the oil change and another third to half quart of so.

Welcome to the forum. Try searching on the forum for this topic since I remember it being discussed here and there.
 
#3 ·
My old K24 (06 EX) didn't burn a drop of oil. Sorry to hear that.

^ Besides the above reply on keeping track, also make sure you are checking it in the exact place and the exact method. All of us does things a bit different (I'll assume you are checking your oil properly). Just make sure you are consistant down to a T.
 
#4 ·
Mine was burning a lot of oil, especially on long drives when it was hot outside with lots of high rpms. No leaks, just a very sooty tail pipe. My mechanic took the valve cover off and said I needed new valve stem seals, he replaced and adjusted and the consumption has gone down. That's my .02

If you don't have any soot in the tailpipe I would think maybe take a plug out and look to see how dirty it is? Maybe you're losing oil on the intake side?
 
#14 ·
good idea dude. Have you had a valve adjustment? Thats alot of miles. Try high mileage oil and see what that does.
 
#5 ·
Mine doesn't burn any oil. A few things to be sure you are doing (I hope this isn't offensive to you):
1) Always check the oil when the engine is warm.
2) Always wipe the dipstick after first removal, then reinsert it to get the most accurate level
3) Always check the oil on a level surface

If you are already doing that, next time you get an oil change, don't touch it (unless it is obviously close to being at the low mark). Next time you get your oil changed, ask the guy how much he took out.
If oil isn't found on the ground beneath where you park your car, isn't splattered in your engine bay and you aren't blowing dark smoke, well- I have no idea where the oil could be going....
 
#6 ·
Hey thanks for the replies. I am having my dealer run an Oil consumption test and something tells me that they are going to come up and tell me that its normal and that is it.... I've had a few Honda's over the years and never have I had to top the Oil in between oil changes. In fact in this car I had the Oil Engine light come on to my horror a few months ago and when I checked the dip stick it was bone dry. that's what started this whole investigation from me. I had to fill it up with 6L of oil at a gas station. Something does not seem right here. I am so happy with this car otherwise. She has run beautifully for the last seven years. (I do baby her and have looked after her always) But this problem I have a feeling is going to bite me hard in the wallet....I may have to part with it down the road. Oh well.....
 
#7 ·
I had to fill it up with 6L of oil at a gas station. Something does not seem right here.
6L= 6.3 quart, I hope not, it should only hold 4.2 liter. Did you overfill?
 
#8 ·
I've got the same engine, same year, similar mileage (183k kms), not consuming much oil here. She'll drink Castrol, but Mobil1 level is the exact same Day 1 till change time.

6L is virtually impossible. 4.4 L will get it at the top tick mark.

I'm suspecting you have an oil leak somewhere
 
#10 ·
Replace the pcv valve. This issue has been documented on here numerous times. I had a similar issue, but replaced the pcv valve before it got anywhere near as bad as yours.
 
#11 ·
Excessive oil consumption seems to be limited to the '03, and early '04 model years with the v-tec 2.4l motors, from the research I've done.

the general consensus is that there are no visible signs of leakage, and oil is consumed faster when the engine is run at higher RPMS (lead footed).

I bought my '03 EXL new, and it seems to have been using excessive amounts since it was new, but it was never really notice until around 40k miles, after the factory warranty had expired. Now at 98k miles it is using 1qt every 300 miles or so, still with no visible signs of leaks or smoke being emitted from the exhaust. It passes the NY State emissions test with out any problems, which is almost as strict as California.

I had changed both O2 sensors out around 40k miles, because one went bad. I had tried flushing the engine and fuel system, thinking it was possibly a stuck piston ring, or stuck valve, at 80k miles, with no results. Changing the EGR doesn't do anything.

For the entire time I've owned the car, Fuel mileage has never changed, it seems to remain constant with approximately 20 mpg, combined city/highway driving. performance and accelleration has not changed either.

I have changed to using 10w30 oil instead of the 5w20 in the last 10k miles to try and cut some of the oil consumption, but no luck.

Just recently, my check engine light came on, with a bad Catalytic converter code, most likely due to the excessive oil consumption.

Every few months I try searching the net for new info on this situation, and its seems to becoming more and more a problem for current owners, with no recalls or TSB's being issued by Honda. Even my mechanic has noticed the same problem with other '03 accords.

IF a class action lawsuit gets started, I'm sure it will pop up in the forum soon enough. Until then, keep checking you oil levels....
 
#12 ·
Even though it sounds backwards, changing to a more viscous oil will not decrease oil consumption in these or many newer designed engines.

The low tension piston rings absolutely need the low viscosity oil, otherwise they are starved for lubrication, which causes them to overheat, and begin to microweld and eventually lose tension. This is first evident with the oil control rings, as the oil consumption will increase dramatically. Then the compression rings slowly wear and grind on the cylinder walls. This wear is most prevalent during cold starts when the oil just can't get to where it needs to fast enough. You wouldn't believe how fast the rings overheat, even at cold start, when they have no/limited lube.

You are correct about the oil causing the cat codes as it slowly poisons the converter.

All K series use oil, the harder they're run the more oil they use. The K20 engines that rev, like the type S engines and the Civic Si engines even when new use more than a quart in 5k if used a little hard, if beaten upon, the consumption goes up. On these motors they spec 5w30, mainly as a way to keep oil in the bearings at such high revs.

The early K engines seem to be prone to camshaft wear as well. It appears to me to be insufficient hardening of the cam lobes. Mainly exhaust cam.

Using the highest quality 5w20, in ones that spec it, you can does significantly reduce the chances of them becoming major oil users, save ever overheating them. All bets are off at that point.

I've seen it first hand with my sister's previous shoebox Civic Si, it used about a quart between changes. Which for her was 5 to 8k. I made her go and get oil, and the Honda filters to use during changes. She went and got some really cheap, VERY cheap Citgo 5w20 at one change at around 60k. After that change, its oil consumption went up to more than 2 quarts every 5k or less.
 
#35 ·
The low tension piston rings absolutely need the low viscosity oil, otherwise they are starved for lubrication, which causes them to overheat, and begin to microweld and eventually lose tension. This is first evident with the oil control rings, as the oil consumption will increase dramatically. Then the compression rings slowly wear and grind on the cylinder walls. This wear is most prevalent during cold starts when the oil just can't get to where it needs to fast enough. You wouldn't believe how fast the rings overheat, even at cold start, when they have no/limited lube.
Fred, I don't want to turn this into another drawn out oil thread but your statement gave me pause. Lately I've been reading the numerous threads criticizing 5W-20 with some even claiming chafed cylinder walls sporting crosshatch marks upon inspection. Not that I'm influenced, but I live in the south and my i4 now has 111K. I'm thinking of switching to 5W-30 full syn for the summer but you're making me reconsider. My thinking is that given the mileage, ring/ cylinder wall tolerances are different now and full syn will flow better at cold start anyway and offer better protection during the hot months. Whaddya think?
 
#13 ·
Here is my experience. I have a 2005 with the 2.4L. It has always consumed 1/2qt per 4k-5k miles. I now have 140,000 and it runs like new, but is consuming more like 1qt per 3k miles. I do drive pretty hard. 80mph on the highways and some high engine revving.

I've tried all different viscosity grades and like fred said, no change. I want to keep this car a lot longer. I'm currently using M1 0w30. I've thought of spiking it with a qt of 15w50 for extra ZDP. Could help protect the cam lobes a bit better but these engines are generally low wearing from what I've seen...

Like others have said, the oil must be getting past the oil control rings. PCV valve was extremely clean when i first looked at it around 120k.

I wonder if I need new valve stem seals?
 
#15 ·
Valve stem seals would show heavy smoke at startup after the engine sits shut off for at least 4 hours or more after being hot. The cat will be cold and unable to burn off the smoke before it can get out the tailpipe.

Toyotas are very well known for this issue.

I can see a slight improvement if the engine has well over 100k. I'd expect maybe a quarter to half qt per OCI by doing the stem seals.

Buster, have you tried conventional oil 5w20 or Motorcraft's semi 5w20?

If one wants to see where the oil is coming from when being burned, take a borescope and look down the plug hole first when hot. The edges of the pistons will be "washed" to bare aluminum where the oil is being forced up around the rings if the oil control rings aren't doing their job.

If you let the motor get cold, and gently roll the motor over by hand a couple of times, and then do the borescope, you should see oil puddled on top of the pistons after the valves have opened and you can look back at the valves and see them wet with oil.
 
#18 ·
My 04 Accord I4 has about 120K miles. It consumes about 1/2 quart every 5K, no sign of leakage or black smoke out of exhaust. It has been use Honda 5W-20 (Valvoline) since day one, changing oil every 7.5K miles. I am thinking about trying Maxlife 5W-30 for high mileage cars, but seeing Fred's comments makes me hesitate.
 
#19 ·
One thing to keep in mind is that the vtec head holds a lot of oil up top. When checking oil, you should do it in the morning b4 its 1st turn-over of the day. That's the most accurate time to check.

You're 1/2 quart loss every 7.5 miles is fine.
 
#23 ·
Freeflight,

The "high mileage" oils are pretty much marketing gimmicks.

You need to first establish a baseline.

Have the oil changed or change it yourself if it's dirty. Fill it first with 4 quarts, run it. Shut it down. Wait about a half hour. Add oil SLOWLY until it reads full. Do a little, and let it run down to the pan.

Once full, note the mileage.

At least every 500 miles, if it's not using a ton. Run the car, when you shut if off, preferably warm, wait a half hour and check it. It's imperative you always check the oil under the same exact circumstance. And preferably in the same parking place it's in.

If you choose to check the oil when cold, do the change, fill it as I described above. Wait until its stone cold (overnight) and recheck it before starting it. See where the level is. It should usually be higher than it was when you first filled it by a little. And then you can start doing a routine check at that time.
 
#25 ·
I have an 03 with the exact same issue.....runs well but eats oil....about 1/2 litre per tank of fuel if driving easy. It doesn't smoke or leak but it sure eats it. we bought the car w/155 kms on it, it now has 195kms but i'd say without exagerating that we're 1/2 way through our second 5GAL BUCKET of oil. I've found around 5 people locally that can attest to the same, not to mention the numerous complaints on forums like these so I've called Honda Canada to complain and they swear they've never heard of anything like this being an issue (*cough,cough,bullshit, cough). I've heard numerous theories about the cause of this but am still unsure yet (a couple people i talk to tend to believe its from the backpressure of the engine eventually ****ing in little bits of loose cataletic converter innards into the engine causing the walls to gouge and bypass oil, other swear its from engines being broken in from new with synthetic oil which is supposedley a no-no.) Anyhow, from coversations I've had with others is that the top half of the engine will have to be rebuilt to correct this, and anyone that knows anything about engine rebuilds would never recommend rebuilding the top of the engine w/o rebuilding the bottom or you chance tearing out your crank bearings....so basically the solution isn't cheap.
2 days ago my car just started throwing CEL code 0341.....hopefully its just the sensor, but from what I've been reading its more likely that the engine jumped its timing or the cam lobes are wore....if this happens to be the case, I'm looking at an engine out of an 05 w/180 kms at a scrap yard for about 900 quid....no way I'm rebuilding this piece of shite.

Long story short....yes it is a semi-common problem that you are experiencing, but Honda will neither admitt it or compensate you in any way for it.
 
#26 ·
clampjockey

It's time for a motor.

The cat has nothing to do with the oil consumption issue on the older 4 cyl Accords.

Its not close enough to the exhaust ports to do what happens to all 2.5 Nissan Altimas. They are well known to have the top of the close coupled cat break up and the motor ****s in pieces of cat on deceleration and scores the cylinders. The '08+ with the integrated manifolds could possibly have this issue later in life.

Since you bought your car with about the equivalent of 130k or so, any amount of poor maintenance could have happened to it in its life.

Nearly all the consumption issues on F and K series 4 cylinders in Accords is due to the oil control rings losing tension.

Another issue, is why should Honda admit or compensate anyone for oil consumption issues at mileages at well over 100k? Nissan will do nothing for their customers with older Altimas once out of warranty if it has a cat breakup. Neither will others.
 
#27 ·
So here we are with my 03 Honda Accord Coupe and the oil consumption. I have to fill up a litre of oil every 1600 km....How is that normal??? This is unheard of. Honda has shown me no consideration on this issue. Would love to start a class action law suit on this with them. Has anyone here in Canada had any luck on this issue? Would really like to hear your story on this and maybe a solution?
 
#29 ·
I have a 2003 Accord Coupe with the 4 cyl, it uses 1 quart every 400 miles. It had a lot of white build-up on the spark plugs in cylinders 1 and 4.

My dad insists that its probably not bad oil control rings, and that it is caused by a plugged oil drain port. So, oil would be laying on the top of the engine with no way down but through the cylinders. He said that happened with one of his old trucks ('88 Chevy Cheyenne 1500 6cyl) and once he cleaned the drain port he never had another problem. Is this possible?
 
#30 ·
Rings.

If you can rent or buy an inexpensive borescope, you can look down into the cylinder. If the edges of the pistons are perfectly clean, the oil rings are dead. If you see tons of crusty carbon, it can be valve stem seals.

It's almost impossible to plug the oil returns on Hondas, there's a whole bunch, not just two little ones on an old school 4.3, you'd have to not change the oil for multiple 10s of thousands of miles with the worst possible driving habits to sludge it up enough to do so.

Pulling the cam cover is easy enough.
 
#31 ·
Thanks for the answer!
How difficult is it to change the oil control rings/valve stem seals? are they fairly easily accessible after the cam cover is off?

I'm a computer guy, so I don't know too much about cars, but I've found they're pretty simple to work on for the most part. I do most of my own work but I feel like something like this may just need an expert to fix it.
 
#32 ·
Piston rings require near complete engine tear down. The condition of the pistons, cylinder walls and rod bearings must be considered during this procedure. I'd say, shop labor on rings would be around 15-20 hours, depending on whether or not the motor comes out or choose to do it in chassis.

The valve stem seals can be done on the car, with the correct tools, 150 psi of air into the cylinders with the cams and rocker shafts out of the motor.

If the whole tear down route comes into play, the stem seals can be done when the head is off. Then the timing chain, chain tensioner, and guides should be done with either in chassis or motor out of the car.
 
#33 ·
Back

Still using a fair amount of oil, about 1-2quarts between changes.
110k miles.
Medium-heavy soot in the tailpipe.
Power is good, smooth pull in all gears.
MPG is good, getting 32mpg at 80mph.

Stem seals have been replaced, PCV has been replaced.

I guess I'm going to start fouling cats and o2 sensors eventually?

Live with it for another 100k, then it's time to rebuild?

Thanks
 
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