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Is the front sway bar necessary?

27K views 19 replies 17 participants last post by  ypsibird 
#1 ·
I just got an 06 Accord LX Coupe 4cylinders (5speed) and just wanted to know whether replacing the front sway bar is necessary?

I only see people here replacing the rear sway bar from the Acura TL but non mentioned the front sway bar. Is the stock adequate? I hear that it's 25mm and it's a solid metal bar right?
 
#2 ·
If you go with the 17mm rear swaybar IMHO you don't need to replace the front. If you want to go with the 20mm rear swaybar, I'd suggest replacing the front as well.

just my .02
 
#19 ·
I agree totally! The FSB makes all the difference. My set-up makes it handle like a totally different car.
 
#4 ·
Replacing just the front sway bar will make your Accord happy in really tight turns. Like Auto Xing it. It will point and shoot out of really tight corners at lower speeds better. But it could also make it pick up a inside rear wheel faster.
 
#5 ·
For the rear sway bar, I needed these:

20mm bar parts needed:

1 of 52300-SEP-A11
2 of 52306-SEP-A11 (Stabilizer holder)
2 of 52308-S3M-A00 (Stabilizer bushing)


Do you guys have all the part numbers for the front 27.5mm sway bars?

Will I need the stabilizer bushing & holder for the front also? What about the bolts or can I reuse my old one?
 
#6 ·
I would definitely recommend doing the front sway bar as well. I think the main reason most people don't do the front is due to the fact that it's a lot more difficult to replace than the rear. I don't have the part number for the front, but you will only need the sway bar and bushings. You can reuse your bushing brackets and bolts.
 
#7 ·
doing just the front bar will increase the inherent understeer Honda already engineers into the Accord chassis. The car will seem to corner flatter, but it will overwork the front tires and in hard maneuvers it will push.

As stated in other replies, if you go with the standard TL rear bar you'll slightly reduce the understeer. If you go with the 20mm rear bar, you'll have a very good chance of snap oversteer, especially in fast side to side movements.

If you put in the biggest TL rear bar, you really should put in the 27.2 front, I went with the hollow bar to get some weight off the front end. I also had to put Ingalls camber correctors in the rear. My car has the HFP suspension and the extreme negative camber on the rear tires already had the rear end destablized. I had the alignment, set at half tank of fuel, to -.9 degrees camber, and 3 mm total toe-in. I wanted to ensure no snap oversteer with the ever so slight increase in total toe-in.
 
#8 ·
First off, replacing the stock sway bars isn't "necessary". People do it to improve the handling of the car.

That being said, The Pope has good advice.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Look here for more info:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15535&highlight=swaybar
and
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...omp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

and here's some instructions:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6568
and
http://www.neuspeed.com/products/product_details.asp?app=52|AC&type=2&ltype=ns_import&p_id=1789 (click on the 'How to install" button in the upper right cornsr of the page)

Also the 2006 TL-S is hollow and the 2007 TL-S is solid.

2k6 front p/n 51300-SEP-A01
2k7 front p/n 51300-SEP-A21
 
#10 ·
Yep yep . . . Pope knows his stuff. His Accord has some great mods.

Be careful . . . if your car is unbalanced, even at parking lots speeds, this could happen . . .

(just joking, but I thought it was a good place to share this vid :D )

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7RMLt28n0-M

;)
 
#11 ·
Replacing the front sway bar is not necessary.

Please correct me if i am wrong: I think the front sway bar is 25.4 mm hollow. I4 get a 14mm, but i think it is hollow.

v6 get a 13mm solid rear sway because i cut it.

i put 20mm solid rear sway for almost a month, i have not experienced any oversteer yet (VSA has not kick in either). Maybe due to a really nose-heavy model (V6 auto). Light understeer still accompanies with you though.

Yep, i avoid the front sway bar because of the complication and need a realignment after.

If other people say it is easy to get oversteer on I4 with 20mm rear, i would avoid it because I4 does not have VSA.
 
#14 ·
Does anyone know if there's a TL/CL swap for the front strut bars? I've read that a CL bar (74180-S0K-A00) can work on a 6th gen, but haven't been able to find anything on a 7th gen...
 
#16 ·
I put on a 20mm bar in the rear and I don't see any of this oversteer that everybody talks about. The car still understeers like a pig, even in extreme snap transitions at speed. That's probably why Progress makes a 22mm bar and I believe someone out there makes a 24 as well. I find it quite impossible to believe that such a small mod would completely change the at-the-limit handling dynamics of the car, considering all the other complex geometries involved in designing a suspension. If you manage to actually get snap oversteer with the 20mm, you were driving way beyond anybody's idea of reasonable on a public road, or you had a coilover setup. So in light of all this, I'd say no to the front bar.
 
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