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Old 10-19-2011, 09:16 AM
mjm mjm is offline
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Check Engine Light....with 65,000m?

My car has only 65250 Miles on it, and today on the way home from work, my check engine light came on, while braking. I pulled over and looked in the hood and checked under the car, and i didnt see anything, i am not a very agressive driver, i may accelerate a little quickly but i drive speed limit, and keep up with scheduled maint.


I am going to go to autozone to have it scanned

any ideas... (i tried the gas cover, it was tight.) ...

Thanks in Advance
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:45 AM
Drew03Accord Drew03Accord is offline
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Originally Posted by mjm View Post
My car has only 65250 Miles on it, and today on the way home from work, my check engine light came on, while braking. I pulled over and looked in the hood and checked under the car, and i didnt see anything, i am not a very agressive driver, i may accelerate a little quickly but i drive speed limit, and keep up with scheduled maint.


I am going to go to autozone to have it scanned

any ideas... (i tried the gas cover, it was tight.) ...

Thanks in Advance
No way to tell till you get it read but the most common culprit is the downstream oxygen sensor.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:28 AM
mjm mjm is offline
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Originally Posted by Drew03Accord View Post
No way to tell till you get it read but the most common culprit is the downstream oxygen sensor.
OK i found out it was a O2 sensor. the guy at Autozone, told me that it wasnt a big deal, and the car could drive fine without the replacement. He said drive 150 miles and it will cycle over and it may just go away, that it might not even need replaced. Is this true
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  #4  
Old 10-19-2011, 06:44 PM
leecea leecea is offline
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If you do the job yourself it's about $50 for a sensor from Amazon and it's a very simple change.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:03 PM
Rush 2112 Rush 2112 is offline
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Yeah man with ODBII check engine lights can come on for a variety of things. It usually not something requiring immediate attention. And definitely don't pay anyone to change an o2 sensor. It's about as difficult as getting your own gasoline.

Not a big deal, you'll be out fifty to ninety bucks. Apparently the post and pre cat o2 sensors go for different prices.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:08 AM
jeffislouie jeffislouie is offline
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Originally Posted by mjm View Post
OK i found out it was a O2 sensor. the guy at Autozone, told me that it wasnt a big deal, and the car could drive fine without the replacement. He said drive 150 miles and it will cycle over and it may just go away, that it might not even need replaced. Is this true
I'm curious why you wouldn't want to fix something that you know to be broken on your car, especially when it has to do with your engine and emissions system?
Here's the deal - you probably can continue driving without fixing it, but you will definitely end up burning more fuel than necessary and producing more harmful emissions than necessary.
Since the fix is cheap and won't take you long (it'll take a mechanic 5 minutes, if that), just fix it.
Google led me to this quote:
"When the oxygen sensor fails, the computer can no longer sense the air/fuel ratio, so it ends up guessing. Your car performs poorly and uses more fuel than it needs to."
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mjm View Post
OK i found out it was a O2 sensor. the guy at Autozone, told me that it wasnt a big deal, and the car could drive fine without the replacement. He said drive 150 miles and it will cycle over and it may just go away, that it might not even need replaced. Is this true
After ignoring it for long enough it can cook your cat converter causing the car to fail emissions/inspection. Get it replaced as soon as possible.
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:48 PM
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2.4ka8roar 2.4ka8roar is offline
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My check engine light came on last week. I drove on it for 2 days (80) miles and it eventually went off. I scanned it the following day and had a P0420 code indicating an inefficient catalyst. Seems like it was a temporary glitch.

The O2 sensor is an easy and relatively inexpensive fix (as long as it isn't rusted in there). At 65,000 miles, it would not be uncommon for a Honda to need a replacement. Many people go much further, but I wouldn't say 65,000 miles is unusual.

Just make sure you replace the right one (primary vs. secondary)!
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:12 PM
mjm mjm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.4ka8roar View Post
My check engine light came on last week. I drove on it for 2 days (80) miles and it eventually went off. I scanned it the following day and had a P0420 code indicating an inefficient catalyst. Seems like it was a temporary glitch.

The O2 sensor is an easy and relatively inexpensive fix (as long as it isn't rusted in there). At 65,000 miles, it would not be uncommon for a Honda to need a replacement. Many people go much further, but I wouldn't say 65,000 miles is unusual.

Just make sure you replace the right one (primary vs. secondary)!
How do i know if its Primary for secondary? Is there a different code for both? Where can i find instructions on the fix, with pictures? anyone who can help i would truly appreciate it. are there brands that are better than others?


btw, I didnt want to replace it then because i didnt have the cash for the replacement. I do now, i also didnt know if it was an error, or if it was a faulty 02 sensor, im not getting very good gas milage now, so i assume that it is bad.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:04 PM
07EXAccord 07EXAccord is offline
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Try clearing the codes immediately (see your owner's manual - use your key). If the SES light comes back it is probably best just to DIY and replace. I don't buy the drive 150 miles routine because the car's computer may eventually learn to operate with the O2 sensor as is. If the O2 sensor is faulty, the computer will have to adjust - meaning something else may suffer. Hence lower gas mileage, stuttering etc....
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  #11  
Old 11-22-2011, 05:11 PM
mjm mjm is offline
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that doesnt help...
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:24 PM
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MM49 MM49 is offline
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Here you go if you want to do it by yourself.
About carpet link below says
"Note: For the 2006 EX, I was told that the carpeting was attached under the seat and would not fold back (as it did with my 2004 Honda Accord LX). This person said they had to loosen the front seat bolts and remove the rear ones so that they could tip the seat forward and have a bit more room to work."

http://sites.google.com/site/hondare...-oxygen-sensor

Doesn't seems to be a hard job if you know what your doing
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:27 PM
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that doesnt help...
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+PIPE+%28L4%29

You either need #16 or #31. Ask autozone what the part number is and then cross reference it to their website.
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  #14  
Old 11-23-2011, 03:25 PM
mjm mjm is offline
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P0135 is this the front or rear sensor? which one, the more expensive one or the cheaper one? please help


ive been looking at the denso 234-9040 but i want to make sure its the right part to fix the CEL, is it that one or the denso 234-4363

looking at the paper i got on the code it says A/F Sensor 1 heater system malfunction
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