My stereo upgrade project (9th gen sedan)

[sbashir95]

So did anyone find out what that really annoying rattle from the trunk actually is? The rattle is driving me insane!

[Tedmond]

the great thing about a processor:

1)fixes the not so perfect eq'd signal out of the deck. Gives you full 20-20k hz signal

2) remove the passive crossovers and run everything active. this will give you greater control/versatility over your system.

3) eq the entire sound spectrum incase you have peaks or valleys of certain frequencies. only applicable you have access to an rta. however you can use iphone/android apps to get the same results.

4) time alignment. This is the one of the best trade offs of using a processor. from the driver seat you can hear the sound come at you simultaneously as if you were in a concert.

[BiminiRoad]

2) remove the passive crossovers and run everything active. this will give you greater control/versatility over your system.

So, I could either run the main out from the LC2i OR skip the LC2i and run 2 channels or all 4 channels (speaker wires) from the HU directly to the pxe-h660. It sounds like this scenario would require 2 more channels of amplification, plus power distribution and more speaker wire runs.

I like the idea of time alignment and control, but this stuff adds up quick. Even with the discontinued alpine unit, this is probably realistically a $400+ upgrade. ROI is sketchy. I like toys, but I'm a big bang-for-the-buck kind of guy.

[BiminiRoad]

Originally Posted by sbashir95

So did anyone find out what that really annoying rattle from the trunk actually is? The rattle is driving me insane!

I have not yet, but I suspect it is the center tail light.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=31270

[BiminiRoad]

Regarding the mysterious rattle, I poked around today, looking up from under the center brake light. There appears to be a section right in the middle where the glass meets the deck, that the hard plastic trim covering the deck rests on the steel frame of the shelf. There is a cutout just to the left of the trunk light as you view the trunk from standing behind the car. I put a bit of Dynamat there. I'll give it a test today to see if it helped.



another shot:


...and here is the trunk lid with Dynamat applied (Mafia victim view):


I found a few places where metal pieces meet that could easily become rattles. Definitely worthwhile doing, and closing the trunk makes a nice luxury-esque thud now.

[oOKhanhOo]

are pdf for the 4-door same as the 2 doors? or there's something different for 2 doors?

[Husker]

Originally Posted by oOKhanhOo

are pdf for the 4-door same as the 2 doors? or there's something different for 2 doors?

The door shows 2d & 4d scroll down in the pdf.

[BiminiRoad]

Well, I gave the sub a little more listening time today. This thing pounds! And despite the Dynamat on the underside of the deck, it is going to need more. I'm considering removing the trim on the top side to Dynamat that as well. It looks like there are two metal surfaces that meet at the shelf/deck area. This area vibrates like crazy!

It is annoying, during loud volumes for sure. At lower levels it is hardly noticeable.

[BiminiRoad]

My CDT component speakers didn't arrive yet, so I may take some time to install more Dynamat. The sound quality is quite good and only rattles the rear shelf (and roof and a few other places) when pushed hard. At reasonable levels, it is just fine. When the door speakers are installed I will spend time making adjustments to suit.

I just upgraded to an iPhone 5, so my 32gb iPhone 4 will be the iPod connected full time in my car. The wireless sync should be handy when parked at home. Plus, now I will be ready when Siri eyes free is available (although it works pretty good as-is).


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[BiminiRoad]

Tonight I put down dynamat on the rear shelf. To do this, I removed the rear seat bolster (a single 10mm bolt each). Consult the seartr.pdf document I posted earlier in this thread for the location. Next, I pulled a bit of the weather strip from the rear-upper corner of the rear door frame to get under the C-pillar trim. A cheap set of trim tools (e.g. harbor freight) worked well (refer to pillars.pdf).

Tip: use a headlamp

Getting the shelf trim panel off (refer to shelfa.pdf) requires removing a couple different types of fasteners. The exposed fasteners are easy to get out with the forked-pry bar type plastic trim tool. The other fasteners are green hidden clip type, like on the door trim. The clips near the front are easy to get, but the ones further back require using a long handled tool, like a big metal pry bar (what I used) or maybe a long, wide screwdriver, with twisting motion. Don't forget to disconnect the connector for the center taillight wire, which is located on the driver's side.

Tip: use a sharpie to mark where fasteners snap in so that you don't dynamat over those holes.

The shelf trim just needs some care and jogging back and forth to clear the speakers and some wire. You can see the exposed metal shelf below (view from outside the passenger side).



View from inside:


View of driver's side C-pillar area:


I wish I had taken a picture of the shelf after I installed dynamat. Reinstalling the shelf trim went without a hitch. All the remaining trim was easy and I ran the speaker wires for the doors up to the passenger side kickpanel. Elapsed time, 1 hour.

[BiminiRoad]

I got to listen to my system (sans components) for about an hour while parked in the garage today. I listened to a wide range of material at realistic driving volumes and did not hear a single rattle! The picture below is marked to show the areas where I installed dynamat on top side of the shelf.

[mrmondaynight]

Nice.

[BiminiRoad]

I received my CDT Audio CL-61A-25 PRO 2-way component speaker set yesterday.

• 2-way 6.5" Component set
• Woofer: 6.5" Stamped Frame
• Crossover: 2-Way EX-450
• Power handling 150Watt
• 100Hz high pass
• Frequency response:65-20kHz.
• Impedance 4 Ohm
• Sensitivity: 91.6 dB.
• Surround: Buytal rubber.
• Tweeter: 1" TW-25PRO (upgraded) Silk twtr.
• Suspension: Flat
• Cone: Carbon treated paper cone
• Mounting depth:2.5"

This weekend, I plan to install dynamat extreme on the doors (inner skin, plus partial outer skin) and install a layer of Ensolite. The biggest challenge will likely be routing the speaker wire into the doors.

I plan to pick up some spare door panel clips and some foam tape before I get started.

[Rhoadkill]

I really enjoyed the info you shared. I am wanting to do something similar. I have an assumption but want to make sure I am correct.

Did you keep the stock speakers in the rear and powered by the factory head unit? Is so, how does that sound and would you gain a lot by replacing those? Also, how much Dynamatting on the car?

Thanks again!

[BiminiRoad]

I really enjoyed the info you shared.

Thank you!

Did you keep the stock speakers in the rear and powered by the factory head unit?

Yes, those are the factory speakers in the rear, powered by the factory HU.

Is so, how does that sound and would you gain a lot by replacing those?

IMO, it sounds fine. It adds a little "fill" in the back and improves the sound for rear passengers. My priority is the front stage. Once complete, I won't have the ability to fade between front and back with the controls in the HU. I'm ok with that. For others, they may want to approach this differently (e.g. additional channels of amplification).

Also, how much Dynamatting on the car?

I purchased 2 of the door packs, for a total of 24 sq. ft. If I did it all over, I'd have instead bought the bulk pack (37.5 sq. ft.) of RAAMmat BXT II for just a few dollars more.