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View Poll Results: What weight oil do yo use in your accord?
2.4 i4 - 0W20 0 0%
2.4 i4 - 0W20 Synthetic 10 28.57%
2.4 i4 - 5W20 3 8.57%
2.4 i4 - 5W20 Synthetic 8 22.86%
3.5 V6 - 0W20 0 0%
3.5 V6 - 0W20 Synthetic 3 8.57%
3.5 V6 - 5W20 2 5.71%
3.5 V6 - 5W20 Synthetic 3 8.57%
Olive 2 5.71%
Other 4 11.43%
Voters: 35. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 06-14-2013, 07:07 PM
sherm sherm is offline
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What type of oil does your Accord use?

Just curious what other Accord users are using these days. I'm going with Genuine Honda 0w-20 full synthetic. I bought the Toyota ow-20 full syn for my wife's Lexus I might go to that once my Honda oil is used up. I've always used Synthetic oil and will change every 7k miles no matter what the maintenance minder says. I use a M1 extended oil filter or a Fram Ultra filter.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:56 PM
Motocrafted_7.5 Motocrafted_7.5 is offline
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I have doubts it is full synthetic at all. Keep in mind, Honda does not make oil and they subcontracted Conoco Phillips to market and package "their" oil and since GRP II oil is allowed to be considered full synthetic (thanks Exxon Mobil for that lawsuit that helped you reap billions by using sueprficial fluff packaging of GRP III oils as full or "fully" synthetic instead of the usual GRP IV or III +IV mixture) That full syn at Honda is rebadged Motorcraft semi synthetic, me thinks.
Also, 0 weight oils need to be synthetic which means more chemicals to do the job which cant be good for your engine. Not the same good chemicals like Friction modifiers, Antiwear and Viscosity Index Improvers or VIIs.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:00 PM
redhat redhat is offline
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Originally Posted by Motocrafted_7.5 View Post
I have doubts it is full synthetic at all. Keep in mind, Honda does not make oil and they subcontracted Conoco Phillips to market and package "their" oil and since GRP II oil is allowed to be considered full synthetic (thanks Exxon Mobil for that lawsuit that helped you reap billions by using sueprficial fluff packaging of GRO III oils instead of the usual GRP IV or II +IV mixture) That full syn at Honda is rebadged Motorcraft semi synthetic, me thinks.
Yep, I'd speculate as to the same thing. The MCSB is a very good oil too!

More than likely any 0W-20 will be more than sufficient. NAPA has good deals on their house brand of oil which is said to be made by Ashland (Valvoline Parent Compnay). The TGMO 0W-20 is excellent as well. I currently use that. Many other have used Mobil 1 0W-20 with rave reviews/no problems. See where this is going...

If you find an oil with the correct viscosity and it meets the API specification particular to your car and carries the "starburst" symbol... use it with confidence. Good luck.
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:24 AM
Mechanic Mechanic is offline
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Originally Posted by Motocrafted_7.5 View Post
. . . (thanks Exxon Mobil for that lawsuit that helped you reap billions by using sueprficial fluff packaging of GRP III oils as full or "fully" synthetic instead of the usual GRP IV or III +IV mixture)
. . . .
Small digression: Actually, it was Castrol (Brtitish Petroleum, BP) that started the petroleum industry down the path of "artificial" synthetics, so to speak, not Exxon Mobil (XOM). As discussed in the link below (a short history compiled by Car & Driver, republished by Amsoil), XOM complained to the Better Business Bureau (BBB) that BP's "synthetic" wasn't a true synthetic inasmuch as it didn't contain the level of polyalphaolefins (PAOs) the industry was using at the time. http://www.syntheticsbestoil.com/mobil.htm. XOM's complaint didn't involve a lawsuit. BBB's advertising council decided that BP's cracking and reformulation process was essentially another means of creating "synthetic" motor oil, even though its product did not contain the level of PAOs of Mobil 1, and it wasn't nearly as expensive to manufacture. That opinion, which pertained principally to marketing, not chemistry, changed the game for all the major oil companies, not just XOM.

These days it really doesn't matter much; you can't buy a "bad" 0W-20 weight oil. And, generally speaking, Honda engines are exceptionally easy on motor oil anyhow. Finally, there is some genuine irony in the fact that what some consider a unique 0W-20 weight oil -- TGMO's -- is manufactured for TM by XOM.
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Old 06-15-2013, 04:54 AM
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speaking of oil i think i wanna do a oil change today , BEST OIL TO USE and HOW MUCH DO I NEED TO REPLACE AFTER DRAINING
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by s4tko View Post
speaking of oil i think i wanna do a oil change today , BEST OIL TO USE and HOW MUCH DO I NEED TO REPLACE AFTER DRAINING
You are going to get as many different answers as responses to your question regarding "the best oil to use." In my humble opinion, any of the majors is fine; you'll never notice a difference. If you are asking what I run in my '09 Accord k-series motor, I mix Mobil 1 in a ratio of two quarts of 5W-30 to three quarts of 0W-20. (And let me hasten to add, the only reason I buy 0W-20 is for the sales receipt.) I am also a big fan of Pennzoil's Platinium and run it in a Civic Si. WRT "how much oil," your owner's manual indicates your engine's capacity is 4.4 quarts with a filter change (4.2 without), but in my experience (and that of countless others), it will take at least 4.8 quarts to bring it up to the full mark.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:07 PM
CitizenR CitizenR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic View Post
You are going to get as many different answers as responses to your question regarding "the best oil to use." In my humble opinion, any of the majors is fine; you'll never notice a difference. If you are asking what I run in my '09 Accord k-series motor, I mix Mobil 1 in a ratio of two quarts of 5W-30 to three quarts of 0W-20. (And let me hasten to add, the only reason I buy 0W-20 is for the sales receipt.) I am also a big fan of Pennzoil's Platinium and run it in a Civic Si. WRT "how much oil," your owner's manual indicates your engine's capacity is 4.4 quarts with a filter change (4.2 without), but in my experience (and that of countless others), it will take at least 4.8 quarts to bring it up to the full mark.
Okay, now I'm intrigued - why the 5w-30/0w-20 mixture (other than for the receipt)?
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:36 PM
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As mentioned above, your going to get many different opinions on oil. Im not saying mine is right but i use reg 5-20 castrol in winter and reg 5-30 castrol in summer. As long as you change all your fluids when you should i think its alll good
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:21 AM
Mechanic Mechanic is offline
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Okay, now I'm intrigued - why the 5w-30/0w-20 mixture (other than for the receipt)?
First, I admire your curiosity. It suggests a closely examined life.

As previously mentioned, I'm not a fan of 0W weight motor oils. In this regard, as you may know, about a decade ago there was a rash of complaints about camshalft galling in k-series motors. It was impossible to determine if there was a single cause -- neglect, abuse, high mileage -- or perhaps a combination of all three and 0W-20 weight oil. I pursued it. The only constant seemed to be 0W weight oil and high rpm.

Out of an abundance of caution, I began contacting Honda representative in other countries via the 'net to determine where else 0W weight oils were the recommended fill. Or, stated differently, where 0W oils were not. I learned there are only three countries where Honda recommends 0W-20 weight motor oil. Here, Canada and Japan. And, even in those countries, to this day Honda still recommends 5W-30 (or 10W-30) for its higher performance and turbocharged engines. This cannot be happenstance.

So, in a nutshell, because I live in a moderate climate, I could care less about extremely cold-weather starting (when, in fact, most engine wear occurs). I'm after the (approximately) 22% higher viscosity that 5W-30 provides at 100 degrees C. I also know that M1's 0W-20 weight oil is one of the "thickest" 0W-20 weight oils on the market, both at zero degrees Celcius and 100 degrees. My concoction is, therefore, a happy compromise (for me -- I'm not a zealot trying to push it on others). And, as I mentioned before I want to have a handful of 0W receipts lying around should lightening strike.
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Old 06-16-2013, 04:50 AM
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Thank you, both for the compliment and the thorough reply.

I'm contemplating a switch in the weight of oil I use, currently Honda Synthetic Blend 5W-20 and am trying to do my due diligence. Of course, the last thing I want to do is damage my engine, but I have an intermittent engine rattle at cold start that really, really annoys me. The VTC actuator has been replaced twice and it's still there, and I'm slowly becoming convinced that maybe it's not the actuator and perhaps a thinner oil would help. But that's another topic for another thread!
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:00 AM
Motocrafted_7.5 Motocrafted_7.5 is offline
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Okay, now I'm intrigued - why the 5w-30/0w-20 mixture (other than for the receipt)?
Because the 0w-20 was causing cam wear and the 5w-30 (as well as the 5w-20) was not. 5w-20 has more protection in high heat sand 0w-20 are alls upposed to be full synthetic(albeit with more chemicals which may or in this case may not be good for your engine). You would mix the two to get the best of both worlds scenario althougmixing can nullify or negate chemical packs and additives when not properly tested.
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:04 AM
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What oil is the question?

Royal purple with filter.
Mobil one with filter have only heard good things.

Change evey 5, ooo miles the maintenance minder wants more miles, do not know how people go buy the mm and use regular oil. MM waits to long in my opinion especially with regular oil.

My opinion, Good luck.
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:10 PM
sherm sherm is offline
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What oil is the question?

Royal purple with filter.
Mobil one with filter have only heard good things.

Change evey 5, ooo miles the maintenance minder wants more miles, do not know how people go buy the mm and use regular oil. MM waits to long in my opinion especially with regular oil.

My opinion, Good luck.
I agree, the MM stretches it to long for me, I think maybe honda wants to lower the published maintenance cost as do many of manufactures. I'll stick with 6-7k OCI.
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:28 PM
Motocrafted_7.5 Motocrafted_7.5 is offline
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Originally Posted by Mechanic View Post
I'm after the (approximately) 22% higher viscosity that 5W-30 provides at 100 degrees C. I also know that M1's 0W-20 weight oil is one of the "thickest" 0W-20 weight oils on the market, both at zero degrees Celcius and 100 degrees. My concoction is, therefore, a happy compromise (for me -- I'm not a zealot trying to push it on others). And, as I mentioned before I want to have a handful of 0W receipts lying around should lightening strike.
I have been utilizing syntehtic blend aka semi-synthetic ever since about 10000 ticks on the odomoter and I am at 133k right now on a J30A5 2006(fruition of engine genre) and I am still on the original spark plugs and timing belt with no oil related failure ever. This is not to say the Vtyec V6 setup doesn't use some odd ounces of oil but I am plenty adept at replenishing it cause I realize 5w-20 at 190 degrees + humidity here in SE texas cannot be good. I also noticed rapidly dropping MMS level lie dropping off a cliff level but still the engine runs like a top so no codes and ofcourse bone stock!

Mechanic: given I am using conoco phillips syn blend marketed from walmart as MC 5w-20, would I stand to benefit at all from the thick M1 0w-20?? I do not want to disrupt the gifts the MC 5w-20 oil is providing, just want to add more protection to the equation for these brutal hot + humid climate of SE tejas. Would we have to crunch some numbers from each oil to get an idea?
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Motocrafted_7.5 View Post
I have been utilizing syntehtic blend aka semi-synthetic ever since about 10000 ticks on the odomoter and I am at 133k right now on a J30A5 2006(fruition of engine genre) and I am still on the original spark plugs and timing belt with no oil related failure ever. This is not to say the Vtyec V6 setup doesn't use some odd ounces of oil but I am plenty adept at replenishing it cause I realize 5w-20 at 190 degrees + humidity here in SE texas cannot be good. I also noticed rapidly dropping MMS level lie dropping off a cliff level but still the engine runs like a top so no codes and ofcourse bone stock!

Mechanic: given I am using conoco phillips syn blend marketed from walmart as MC 5w-20, would I stand to benefit at all from the thick M1 0w-20?? I do not want to disrupt the gifts the MC 5w-20 oil is providing, just want to add more protection to the equation for these brutal hot + humid climate of SE tejas. Would we have to crunch some numbers from each oil to get an idea?
You concern should be towards changing the timing belt, associated parts, and maintenance. As far as the oil goes you are way over thinking it. Motorcraft is just fine and will be until that belt breaks or the water pump locks up. Sweat the real shit not the oil.
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