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  #46  
Old 04-24-2007, 04:45 AM
Damm Damm is offline
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Claying will never fully remove your wax/sealant.It's usually the solvents in the lubricant that will do this.Claying abrasively grinds away surface
contamination and may cause light surface marring.Deep cleaning
(polishing) will remove any other defects before waxing(hard water spots)
etc.Try claying over a coat of collinite.I guarantee you that wax
will still be there.Dawn or dishwashing soap will remove all you wax buildup
,but not recommended as this could cause damage to your clearcoat.
claying is just a form of selective polishing and should always be followed by
deep cleaning.
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  #47  
Old 04-24-2007, 06:20 AM
acc acc is offline
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looking good!

wax makes the car washes a breeze since dirt doesn't stick as much.
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  #48  
Old 04-24-2007, 06:29 AM
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EX-L_KABONG EX-L_KABONG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damm
Claying will never fully remove your wax/sealant.It's usually the solvents in the lubricant that will do this.Claying abrasively grinds away surface
contamination and may cause light surface marring.Deep cleaning
(polishing) will remove any other defects before waxing(hard water spots)
etc.Try claying over a coat of collinite.I guarantee you that wax
will still be there.Dawn or dishwashing soap will remove all you wax buildup
,but not recommended as this could cause damage to your clearcoat.
claying is just a form of selective polishing and should always be followed by
deep cleaning.
Damm, thanks for the info. Based on your comments and obvious experience, next time I'm going to try a polish. Question though: now that I've just clayed and waxed, would it be okay to go back in a week or two and just *polish* (or cleaner-polish?) followed by wax? Or do I need to clay again first?

TIA
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  #49  
Old 04-24-2007, 06:46 AM
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joerockt joerockt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EX-L_KABONG
I'm sure all of those steps would be helpful. But it's more work than I really want to put into it. Just getting me to clay in the first place was a major accomplishment. If I can clay it and wax it and get it to look that good, then anything else is more "showroom quality" than I really need. As for how long the Gold Class lasts, I guess I'll find out. If you're right, I'll have to look for something else that lasts longer.

For me, using polishes, preps, polymer sealants, multiple layers of wax, etc., is overkill. (Not saying for everyone...just for me.) Heck, previous cars I've had just got an occasional hand wax once every year or two, then regular washes at the hand-wand drive-up car wash with their spray on wax coating. Then I'd usually dry and chamois it. I'd also do the occasional hand-wash in the driveway. Result? They looked better than 99% of cars on the road...I always got lots of compliments on how good my cars looked. I'm sure it wasn't nearly as good as you enthusiasts' cars, which I'm sure are the best of the best. But good enough for this old coot.
Right, but the point I was trying to make to Ben, which seems to elude him, is that you dont have to go through this process every month or every other month. I do this full process once a year, maybe twice. Then for upkeep, every time I wash it, I use Optimum Spray wax. And it stays slick and smooth for the rest of the year. Every couple of months I'll throw on a coat of s100 just because...

And you wont really find a "wax" that will last any longer. Personally I think these "poly/wax" products are just a gimmick. NXT is the same way and its notorious for short life. A true poly/sealant physically bonds to the paint and if you protect that poly/sealant with an occasional layer of wax, you would never have a reason to clay every 3 months.

But hey, if you dont mind swirls and oxidation, then just throw that coat of wax on and call it good till the next time.
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  #50  
Old 04-24-2007, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EX-L_KABONG
Damm, thanks for the info. Based on your comments and obvious experience, next time I'm going to try a polish. Question though: now that I've just clayed and waxed, would it be okay to go back in a week or two and just *polish* (or cleaner-polish?) followed by wax? Or do I need to clay again first?

TIA
You dont need to clay again. In fact, you really dont even need to strip off the coat of wax you just put on because the polish will do that for you. So, just wash and polish away. Top it with the wax and you're good.
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  #51  
Old 04-24-2007, 07:09 AM
Damm Damm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerockt
You dont need to clay again. In fact, you really dont even need to strip off the coat of wax you just put on because the polish will do that for you. So, just wash and polish away. Top it with the wax and you're good.

Exactly

I clay when the car is new,and then maybe every couple of years.
I polish(clean) once/twice a year and then seal/wax.Or just a good wax.
Some polish's have abrasives and others have fillers.Depending on
the condition of your paint(swirls)choose appropriate type.
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  #52  
Old 04-24-2007, 01:23 PM
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EX-L_KABONG EX-L_KABONG is offline
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What are the differences between the following, if any, and what exactly do they do as it relates to the paint, clear coat, surface, etc.?

Cleaner
Polish
Sealer/Sealant
Wax
Quick Detailer
Others?
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  #53  
Old 04-25-2007, 05:22 AM
Damm Damm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EX-L_KABONG
What are the differences between the following, if any, and what exactly do they do as it relates to the paint, clear coat, surface, etc.?

Cleaner
Polish
Sealer/Sealant
Wax
Quick Detailer
Others?
Waxes are eighter carnuba based or polymere.Carnuba tends to give
a deeper richer shine,but lacks the durability of the sealants.
A sealant usually is easier to apply,will last much longer,but
lacks the depth of the carnuba.Especially if layered.
Waxes which have cleaners are referred to as one/step,
all in one.Waxes that don't have any cleaning properties require
a polish (prewax cleaner).Polish will remove old wax and sealant
and improve surface gloss.Some will correct minor swirls or
hide them with fillers.They can also be used after compounding
to eliminate surface haze.
I'll usually polish once a year,followed by a good sealant.I let it cure
for a day and then apply a good carnuba.I genearally refrain from using
a quick detailer in that throwing on another coat of wax is just as easy.
but more durable.Just before winter sets I add a coat of collinite wax.
Collinite will generally last the whole winter and its the most durable wax
on the market.Then I do it again.
Products I would recommend.
Klasse/p21s/Pinnacle/Collinite/Wolfgang/Menzerna
I find that Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Wax works best on silver.
Especially if layered over a sealant.
But my favorite product is Klasse all in one.I use it for my shower
stalls,Range top,windows and mirrors.And it also does a great
job in preparing and cleaning your paint.
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  #54  
Old 04-25-2007, 06:44 AM
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joerockt joerockt is offline
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^^^^lol, glad you took that one.
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  #55  
Old 04-25-2007, 09:33 AM
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EX-L_KABONG EX-L_KABONG is offline
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Thanks for the detailing education, guys...seriously!
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  #56  
Old 04-25-2007, 06:13 PM
caesar5.0 caesar5.0 is offline
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there's a great polishing tutorial that gives a lot of good information if you want to polish your car. i have it bookmarked on my other computer. i'll post the link as soon as i get there.
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  #57  
Old 04-25-2007, 08:35 PM
caesar5.0 caesar5.0 is offline
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here it is. it's pretty comprehensive, and i got a lot of knowledge from it. enjoy.
http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detai...erfection.html
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  #58  
Old 11-14-2007, 12:48 PM
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TCHondatoy TCHondatoy is offline
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I think your car looks great. You can tell how smooth and clean the paint looks in the picture. I just clayed the front bumper and along the bottom of my car this past weekend to get the bugs off and road grim but when I get in the mood I will clay and wax the whole car! I'm antisipating the results.
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  #59  
Old 11-14-2007, 02:01 PM
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RTexasF RTexasF is offline
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Kabong,

Just to make sure you understand.... "polishing" is to be done by machine. It's possible to do it by hand but it is extremely labor intensive and the results cannot compare to those done by machine and can actually make it look worse.

You admit that you are not bonkers into super detailing and your car looks great. Unless you plan to buy a buffer and (at least) two different grades of polish, a load of microfiber towels, various pads for the buffer. etc., just keep doing what you're doing now.

Should you get heavy duty into it there are several of us here that can guide you along with the many detailing sites with their how to areas.
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  #60  
Old 11-14-2007, 04:41 PM
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Succinct Succinct is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTexasF View Post
Kabong,

Just to make sure you understand.... "polishing" is to be done by machine. It's possible to do it by hand but it is extremely labor intensive and the results cannot compare to those done by machine and can actually make it look worse.

You admit that you are not bonkers into super detailing and your car looks great. Unless you plan to buy a buffer and (at least) two different grades of polish, a load of microfiber towels, various pads for the buffer. etc., just keep doing what you're doing now.

Should you get heavy duty into it there are several of us here that can guide you along with the many detailing sites with their how to areas.
This thread is 7 months old....
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