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  #31  
Old 05-26-2009, 06:42 AM
BigAnt1969 BigAnt1969 is offline
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I do my own oil changes for about $35 using M1 & M1 Filter. In my case synthetic oil increases my MPG about 1.5 mpg to 2 = 25 to 35 miles per tank of gas. The extra cost for synthetic pays for itself 2 times over in the end. I think more people should factor this in when calculating cost of synth vs conv. oil. Even if paying someone to do the oil change you come out ahead.
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  #32  
Old 05-26-2009, 08:07 AM
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05Honda: I went back and re-read your initial post to be sure I'd focus on your priorities. If I understand you correctly, you've tried two synthetic oils, Pennzoil Platinium ("PP") and Mobil 1 ("M1"), and you've considered using Amsoil but decided again it because it's not particularly easy to find. You also were put off by the fact that M1 appeared (to you) to thicken over time. You liked PP, on the other hand, because it didn't discolor.

You didn't say whether you change your own oil, but I have the impression you don't. And I also have the impression you want to minimize the number of oil changes you have to pay for.

Based on your priorities, PP is best for you. But, as this thread should make clear, if you change one or more of your priorities, the "best oil" will also change. For example, Castrol's "Edge" is an excellent synthetic oil, but it's expensive and in the United States it's only available in two weights, 5w-30 and 10w-30. I wouldn't hesitate to use it because I know it will provide additional protection against premature camshaft wear, but you said you wanted a 5w-20. Similarly, M1's Extended Performance claims it will provide protection for 15,000 miles. It almost certainly would discolor over time, which concerns you, but its use would allow you to minimize your oil changes. However, any of these three (or Valvoline's synthetic, "Synpower" -- which will soon offer a 300k mile engine warranty) are outstanding products and each will meet all of Honda's maintenance requirements.
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  #33  
Old 05-28-2009, 10:27 PM
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Doing a used oil analysis (UOA) will help you get a fact-based understanding of what's happening with the engine. Terry Dyson (www.dysonanalysis.com) is excellent and very knowledgeable about Hondas. Fuel dilution is a common issue with Honda engines, something to be aware of.
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  #34  
Old 06-03-2009, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredsvt View Post
What does the owner's manual say as far as viscosity goes, is it 0w20 or 5w20?

Stick with an oil that is approved by either Honda or Ford if it's 5w20, the ones that are approved are tested at a double time temperature test.
dont get me wrong i love honda, but, saying use whever they recomend sometimes cant be taken seriously, only reason honda or others use 5W-20 is to elevate their fuel economy raitings to government. its "thinner" then 5W-30 therefore engine doesn waste just a little effort to work in that oil therefore little better fuel economy, in long run 5W20 is not as good for engine as 5W-30


i use amsoil and their filter and change every 5k
Mobil is like microsoft, they are huge company and do whatever they want
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  #35  
Old 06-03-2009, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sy272004 View Post
dont get me wrong i love honda, but, saying use whever they recomend sometimes cant be taken seriously, only reason honda or others use 5W-20 is to elevate their fuel economy raitings to government. its "thinner" then 5W-30 therefore engine doesn waste just a little effort to work in that oil therefore little better fuel economy, in long run 5W20 is not as good for engine as 5W-30
There's no proof that using 5W-20 oil will shorten the life of your engine compared to using 5W-30. In fact, most 5W-30 oils will shear down to 5W-20, while 5W-20 oils keep their viscosity.

Many people have done used oil analysis on 5W-20 (including myself) and found that the wear isn't any different than using 5W-30.
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  #36  
Old 06-03-2009, 06:42 AM
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I asked this question to my mechanic.................certified by Honda. He has done hundreds of oil changes...........in his opinion, just follow the manufacturers guidelines when it comes to the oil and change intervals. He said OEM 5w-20 changed every 3K-5K miles if fine. He services an Acura NSX that a doctor owns...............the Dr. keeps up with all his maintenance and changes his oil with OEM every 3k-5k miles..........this NSX has almost 250K miles on it without a single engine problem. I think Im going with what my mechanic recommends.
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  #37  
Old 06-03-2009, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlee View Post
There's no proof that using 5W-20 oil will shorten the life of your engine compared to using 5W-30. In fact, most 5W-30 oils will shear down to 5W-20, while 5W-20 oils keep their viscosity.

Many people have done used oil analysis on 5W-20 (including myself) and found that the wear isn't any different than using 5W-30.
You are correct, sir, there is no "proof" that 5W-20 oil will "shorten engine life," but there is a growing body of evidence on various websites -- (see, e.g., honda-tech.com; ephatch.com; search "camshaft galling") -- which would cause a reasonable person to question whether 5W-20 conventional oil provides adequate protection against shear and camshaft pitting/galling in high-mileage k20 engines.

On the other hand, we know that Honda still recommends the use of 5W-30 weight oil in all its higher performance engines (and 10W-30 in the case of the S2000) and, further, that Honda recommends 5W-30 weight synthetic oil (Mobil 1) in its turbocharged engines. Consequently, it's reasonable to conclude that 5W-30 weight oil provides more protection against extremes of heat and shear than 5W-20 weight oil in a k20 engine.
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  #38  
Old 06-03-2009, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic View Post
You are correct, sir, there is no "proof" that 5W-20 oil will "shorten engine life," but there is a growing body of evidence on various websites -- (see, e.g., honda-tech.com; ephatch.com; search "camshaft galling") -- which would cause a reasonable person to question whether 5W-20 conventional oil provides adequate protection against shear and camshaft pitting/galling in high-mileage k20 engines.

On the other hand, we know that Honda still recommends the use of 5W-30 weight oil in all its higher performance engines (and 10W-30 in the case of the S2000) and, further, that Honda recommends 5W-30 weight synthetic oil (Mobil 1) in its turbocharged engines. Consequently, it's reasonable to conclude that 5W-30 weight oil provides more protection against extremes of heat and shear than 5W-20 weight oil in a k20 engine.
Have you seen anything on these websites that show a similar result with the J30 engine?
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  #39  
Old 06-03-2009, 01:41 PM
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my mechanic said that 5w-30 is better for the engine than 5w-20, so thats why I use 5w-30. but i dont think it makes a big difference.
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  #40  
Old 06-03-2009, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyshack View Post
Fred hit the nail on the head. The Motorcraft oil is fantastic and cheap! I run it in my Ranger. One year or 10k miles. And seeing that I don't drive the MZ3 as much as I use to. I will be switching it to the MC 5w-20 oil. The HCHII will spend its life on M1 0w-20 at 10k mile oci. The Accord spent its life on M1 0w/5w-20 depending on the season. I should have just ran the MC in it and saved a few bucks.

My own belief is run a good air filter and a good oil filter and the oil will take care of it's self over all. Even the cheapest of oils seem to be better than the best oils of 20 years ago. Syn excluded of course.
MC is great in Hondas and its not some fad that oh Honda guys like putting oil with a Ford label in their cars for some odd reason, MC really runs great in Hondas. In my V6, it was night and day how the car ran with MC and any other oil. However recently, Valvoline Max life came into the picture(my local market) and I tried it and am smitten. I get the same great mileage but I like to think I get better protection since this oil is purported to have GRP IV oil in it!(10-20%) Anywho, I would not be averse to trying M1 0w-20 either as it has also been purported to contain GRP IV due to better ingredients. Better ingredients, Better Oil 5w/0w 20!
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  #41  
Old 06-03-2009, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sy272004 View Post
Mobil is like microsoft, they are huge company and do whatever they want
Because a company is huge does not mean they are evil or "do whatever they want."

Does GM "want" to go into bankruptcy and have shareholder value wiped out? It was the largest corporation in the world for many years.


Becuase Amsoil is small does not make them a Saint or Luke Skywalker fighting the Evil Empire.

Buying products from a multi-level markerter is annoying though.

Why can't I just walk into an auto parts store or racing shop and buy Amsoil?

Amway Herbal Life Amsoil good grief it is annnoying.
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  #42  
Old 06-03-2009, 06:28 PM
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5 Qts Advanced Fuel Economy Mobil 1 + Mobil 1 Filter $19.99 at Advance after $10 MIR

The Advance Auto Parts Stores here are running a special - 5 qts Mobil 1 plus a Mobil 1 filter for $29.99 - about $18 off list.

Be sure to buy the Advanced Fuel Economy version (fluorescent green cap, 0W-XX weights) and get the $10 MIR rebate form here

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...romotions.aspx

after taking a lame-o fuel economy challenge (save up to $231 in fuel costs annually by DRIVING LESS).
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  #43  
Old 06-04-2009, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J30A5Refined View Post
In my V6, it was night and day how the car ran with MC and any other oil.
How exactly was it night and day? I switched to MC a few oil changes ago, but other than possibly a slight improvement in mpg's I see no diff at all from when I was using Castrol dino.
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  #44  
Old 06-04-2009, 06:16 AM
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How exactly was it night and day? I switched to MC a few oil changes ago, but other than possibly a slight improvement in mpg's I see no diff at all from when I was using Castrol dino.
I didn't notice any difference either after I switched to MC 5w20 from the dealer's dino. I did get a uoa done after 4800 miles with excellent results. The iron reading was a 3 while the univ. avg is a 7.

Like you said there was a slight improvement in mpg. The only other thing I noticed is when checking the oil level with the MC the residual oil on the paper towel seemed to soak in and spread thru a small area of the paper towel at a much faster rate than the dealer dino. The dino oil just seemed to sit on the paper towel versus the MC. Just thought that was kind of interesting.
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  #45  
Old 07-14-2009, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTexasF View Post
The oil that's best is the one that's changed on a timely basis. There is no answer to your question. Which car is best, which ice cream is best, which state is best, which planet is best? The list can go on ad nauseum. Go to bobistheoilguy and read to learn. By the way.........which senior diapers are best? Read and learn then make your own decision.
California, not Texas, hahahaha...

Currently, I'm going out to 7500-8000 on Valvoline or Castrol synthetic oil (5W-20), and an AmsOil 25K filter (I go to, 3 x 8K = 24K miles). I have purchased an oil analysis kit, to test my oil. Well see what it shows (I'll post the results hear). On my Honda (2001) the recommendation is out to 7500 miles, and a new filter every other time. My WAG is I'm OK...
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