Brake time...

[Inspector1]

Originally Posted by wardenr

Originally Posted by Bruce Hawkins
Quote: "What's you thoughts on that extra set screws, that hold the rotor on?"

The two (2) countersunk Phillips-head screws used, per rotor, are there to ensure that the rotor fits uniformly (flush) against the hub unit. Do you absolutely NEED them? No. Many aftermarket rotors are NOT drilled for them. Then WHY are they installed, you may ask? This facilitates ease/speed of assembly, during the (assembly line) build. It certainly makes reassembly a lot easier, when you replace the pads. And, if you have the rotors resurfaced on the car...which many shops do. Thus, if you are asking MY two-cents worth? I suggest you keep the rotor screws. From my dealer, they retail for about fifty cents, each.

Spot on there Robert on reason for screws.

Both my Accords run without screws now. I don't even waste my time with impact drivers trying to remove, Those puppys are blown out of there with a left handed drill. This procedure only happens once . But that is my opinion

I1

[wardenr]

Originally Posted by Inspector1

Spot on there Robert on reason for screws.

Being the anal-retentive, perfectionist "Inga-Neer," I use OEM Honda rotors, WITH their screws. #2 Phillips bit on my impact driver facilitates ease of removal/reinstallation.

[CDsDontBurn]

Originally Posted by wardenr

Being the anal-retentive, perfectionist "Inga-Neer," I use OEM Honda rotors, WITH their screws. #2 Phillips bit on my impact driver facilitates ease of removal/reinstallation.

< ---- hand tightened, hand loosend. both work just as well and have for over 50k miles already.

[Flyboy]

I replaced all four wheels pads and had the rotors turned at a local repair shop when the car had about 40,000 miles. The after market pads were quiet, smooth and lasted until I replaced the front pads from the Honda dealer at about 93,000 miles. Those pads have been quiet, smooth and also work well. The cost between the two per wheel was within a couple of dollars of each other. The next time I need brakes I will take them to the dealer because the cost was about the same and it's easier to complain to Honda when something doesn't go right.

[Bruce Hawkins]

I got the shipment. The rotors have the hole for the screw...
Now I get to wait till I ware down what I have...

[reframmellator]

You're both right!

There are two schools of thought here. One says that OEMs spend millions to optimize the corners of a car for NVH, feel, performance, and durability. School One says don't mess with that optimization and stick with OEM.

School Two says, "Yeah, but what if their optimization isn't MY optimization? What if I'll take a little more noise and dust if I can get a lot more fade resistance?" If you weigh the performance factors differently, aftermarket makes a good case for itself.

[Bruce Hawkins]

Originally Posted by reframmellator

You're both right!

There are two schools of thought here. One says that OEMs spend millions to optimize the corners of a car for NVH, feel, performance, and durability. School One says don't mess with that optimization and stick with OEM.

School Two says, "Yeah, but what if their optimization isn't MY optimization? What if I'll take a little more noise and dust if I can get a lot more fade resistance?" If you weigh the performance factors differently, aftermarket makes a good case for itself.

And that optimization was done many years ago, maybe even last century...
The pad I'm using are the latest design, FM1000. The rotors are black e-coated to prevent rust; Possibly radiating more heat, from being black, and from not being rusted. Their not the longest lasting (necessary), nor the lower cost best choose (likely what Honda would have chosen). I'm looking for better than OEM, but not crazy expensive.
This time I'm replacing in even more hardware, than last time (boots, slider-bolts, clips, etc). So hopefully their be even more quieter that the GS-6 pads were (normally herd noises, was pads shifting around sometimes)...

FM-1000:
http://www.brembo.com/US/Performance...05sportpad.htm

[CDsDontBurn]

Originally Posted by Bruce Hawkins

And that optimization was done many years ago, maybe even last century...
The pad I'm using are the latest design, FM1000. The rotors are black e-coated to prevent rust; Possibly radiating more heat, from being black, and from not being rusted. Their not the longest lasting (necessary), nor the lower cost best choose (likely what Honda would have chosen). I'm looking for better than OEM, but not crazy expensive.
This time I'm replacing in even more hardware, than last time (boots, slider-bolts, clips, etc). So hopefully their be even more quieter that the GS-6 pads were (normally herd noises, was pads shifting around sometimes)...

FM-1000:
http://www.brembo.com/US/Performance...05sportpad.htm

one line in that page stuck out to me.

Brembo has developed and implemented a new pad into the Sport brake systems programs.

The friction material is designated FM1000, and is a proprietary compound developed specifically for the Brembo OE and High Performance programs. The FM1000 material is designed to sustain a high friction coefficient level over a wide temperature range, and is designed for use in high performance on-road applications. The FM1000 pad is classified as an FG material by the SAE J661 standard. The F indicates that the average coefficient of friction is between 0.35 and 0.45 at or below 200°F, and the G indicates an average coefficient of friction between 0.45 and 0.55 up to 600°F. The Brembo compound responds very favorably to aggressive use. The material actually improves after it has been through an initial high temperature heat cycle.

to me this reads as, "this pad works best once it has been under some use to bring up the proper operating temperature of the brake pad. if pads have not been pre-heated, the pads will not have optimal functionality." but, that's just how i read it.

[Bruce Hawkins]

I assume it's like the GS-6 pads I currently have. Their (both) about the same as OEM at cold, and slightly better once worm. And get even better when HOT. FG is what the GS-6 pad were, as well as these are. I suspect that the OEM is EE. I asked TR, if they were good cold, they said they were. They seem to have more brass looking strips, and looks more black (the pads), while the GS-6 has more of a shinny metal (blackish) look. Both are a composite pads, Semi- metallic, and Carbon or Carbon-Ceramic...

GS-6 (0.38-0.42 at 700F):
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=S

Brembo Sport (0.45-0.55 at 600F):
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=A

SAE Practice J661 and J688 testing procedure (FF, FG etc) Above temperature's are rounding typo's, as it's really 650F):
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Arti...dge_codes.aspx

[reframmellator]

And that optimization was done many years ago, maybe even last century...

The basics hardly change, true, but every redesign of every platform goes through extensive NVH testing. Brakes account for 25% of all auto warranty claims, and the bulk of them are related to NVH.

[Bruce Hawkins]

Originally Posted by reframmellator

The basics hardly change, true, but every redesign of every platform goes through extensive NVH testing. Brakes account for 25% of all auto warranty claims, and the bulk of them are related to NVH.

NVH -Noise-Vibration-Harshness:
The GS-6's didn't make any noises usually (Some minor "brake grunt" (low frequency noise, at less-than 2 MPH, sometimes) - a non issue), no vibrations, or Harshness - Not sure what harshness means...