Acura TL SH-AWD IM on Honda VCM installation

[Metal Metalic]

Acura TL SH-AWD IM on Honda VCM installation

Since I have completed my installation, I have updated and consolidated all the important information needed to perform the install.


Introduction:

I intended this mod for use on VCM engines, though many attributes found on the TL SH-AWD IM can be beneficial for both manual and automatic V6 engines.

Though many feel this is a performance upgrade and may not be cost effective, since it can cost anywhere from $400.00 $1200.00 for all the parts and materials to properly install.

Yes, the cost can be high if you will need to purchase tools that may not be in your garage, along with other materials and electronics.

For me I had a lot of things already available that kept my budget below $400.00.

In the long run, you will get better driveability due to moving torque lower for better performance with the automatic transmission.

Not to make one better than the other, if using Richie's RV6 J-pipe on an automatic, this intake upgrade is a perfect complement. As it restores low end torque lost by the exhaust design.

In fact the biggest notable gains are with Automatics, as manuals already have most of the benefits with an IMT intake.

Because of added features that are not part of the Honda V6 intake, performance increase will be obtained.

1) Larger crossover ports for 4000 and higher RPM usage.
2) A built in TB spacer (Has .75" extension over VCM inlet).
3) Larger TB bore for future upgrades that require more CFM.

The IMT actuated IM cover is only a benefit when functional on VCM engines.

For manual V6 engines, all you need is the IM, your top cover will fit and function as well as the Acura version.

I specified the Acura IM cover as it is cost effective over the Honda counter part.

If on a budget, you can do the IM only (No Acura IM cover). When monies are available you can then add the IMT actuated IM cover without worries about function.


Post Install Summery:

A note before I explain details... Not to scare you away, while the whole power band is affected, there will be some good points as well as some bad points.
Because of ECM/PCM programming, having an up to date ECM/PCM firmware on 8th gens (08' through early 10') will remove issues that may be magnified by the increased torque.

Of all types of mods, this option goes beyond the looks cool factor, it simply adds power without taking anything away from the power band.

It seems to double what you had gotten from the MDX spacers added torque, without removing any top end power. I have noticed that RPM down to 1500 is more stable when driving in town. VCM's ECO mode seems to need a wee bit more low end torque with OEM exhaust, so aftermarket exhaust may exacerbate lower than 1500 RPM cruising. Again, I like to keep ECO mode on as much as possible with light acceleration even at 20 MPH, which could not be done well without the TL SH-AWD IM.

Because of the larger cross over ports for above mid-range RPM, you should get better top end. So, 2 or more horsey power may be waiting, depending on previous mods, since Honda IMs have some restriction in the IM design.

Depending on driving habits, one can actually increase mileage without taking extra care, or just as easily, can get the lead foot bug and end up with crummy MPG. HA!!!

Depending on road conditions when at low speeds below 30MPH, hunting between overdrive gears and grade logic may be pronounced. It is mostly due to partially coasting conditions, wrong gear while increasing RPM or releasing throttle while grade logic is working. With our krappy roads it happens here and there. Honda recommends D3 for city driving, I recommend it for speeds below 30 until you can maintain speeds long enough without having to adjust throttle.

ECO mode seems more stable and power band is better managed by the ECM/PCM. Just needs a bit getting use to, as the throttle is more responsive under part throttle conditions.


Installation Notes:

When installing you can do some minor work to make sure all ports are clean by lightly sanding burrs. You can use a brake hone and smooth out runners and remove excess RTV sealant that is compressed out of the mating joints.

If using your OEM throttle body along with a SRI or CAI you may opt to use an P2R adapter.

I was able to drill new mounting holes and fabricate a metal gasket to mount my TB to allow my OEM intake to function. Shown below...




IM Cover Pin-outs:

Fig 1



I decided to skip wiring for the top 3 pins at the time of designing my circuit, as I had little information about the sensor function and is independent of the motor drive.

My circuit functions well and does not need to sense IMT operation. Thus a two wire hook up along with a simple yet durable circuit to allow IMT function.


Delay Circuit & IMT Control Relays:

Below is my circuit that I'm using on my car.

Note: Though I make reference to 12v on the circuit and relays, you can use the switched power connection for the 12v sources. This will allow the use of just four wires for hook up. I just forgot to change that in my drawings.

It uses very little current in standby and when activated.
When adding a RPM switch to trigger the delay circuit and relay A, the output must at least have 12v @ 500ma.




The relay control is simple as well, no power is given to the IMT actuator motor when the engine RPM is below 4000.

When the engine gets to 4000 RPM power is applied to just one relay (Relay A) so that the IMT actuator motor is powered (for 500ms) by the RPM switch and delay circuit.

After the 500ms is completed, the second relay (Belay B) is activated, thus putting both inputs to the IMT actuator motor to 12v. Thus stopping flow of current, since the IMT actuator is isolated from battery / engine ground.

When RPM goes below 4000, relay A is deactivated allowing the current to flow in reverse direction for the IMT actuator motor, causing the IMT actuator to perform the close function for 500ms. The circuit is now back at standby.


Parts, parts and more parts!

MDX Spacer



When porting the MDX spacer (Item 3), take note that it is slightly tapered by Honda to allow increasing velocity before the IM runners.

With the SH-AWD intake, most of the MDX spacer attributes are already built in. Though it is not as good as a MDX spacer at low to mid range on 3.2L and 3.5L V6 engines.

So I am combining them, as I am having to use a custom patch to get the IMRC to work with VCM. I can imagine having a dead spot between change over as it is not instantaneous, so having the ported MDX spacer will be a bridge so to speak.

I already have a good understanding of what I had with the MDX spacer, so seeing even more low to mid range torque along with super 4000K+ pulling will be even better.

Parts needed to install an MDX spacer, works with 3.2L to 3.7L V6 intake manifolds.

If milling the MDX spacer for manual tranny use, be sure to mill the larger diameter port side. Else the slight taper for increasing air velocity will be removed.

92900-08100-1B - STUD (8X100) $1.50 x 2
95701-08105-08 - Long Bolt (8x105) $1.50 x 7
17108-RDJ-A00 - Intake Manifold spacer $35.00
17105-RCA-A01 - Intake Manifold gasket $30.00


Acura TL SH-AWD IM



Minimum parts needed for just the IM install.

Note: Items 8, 9, 11, 12 and 14 are already on your OEM intake manifold. Item 10 is a chrome cap nut that is a replacement for the painted nut on Honda covers.

TB Adapter if keeping OEM TB

3.7L TB
16400-RL8-A01 $550.00

Gaskets
16176-RCA-A02 3.5L TB gasket $0.60 x 1
16176-RYE-A10 3.7L TB gasket $0.60 x 1

To match the chrome flange bolts that hold the top cover.
90201-P8E-A00 cap nut (6mm) $0.50 x 2

TLS-AWD IM (2009 on up)
17160-RK2-A00 3.7L IM $215.00

TSX IM (2011 on up)
17160-RL8-A00 2011 3.7L IM $525.00

IMRC Cover (Honda IMRC covers can be used but are more expensive)
17140-RK1-A01 3.7L IM cover $160.00

Optional parts, as your original IM has parts that can be swapped over to the new Acura IM.
90104-RCJ-A00 Special (Chrome) flange bolt (6x18) $1.25 x 10
92900-06014-0B Stud (6x14) $0.35 x 2


Since Acura J37A4 has a higher compression compared to the Honda J35 series. The J37 should have a hotter burn during combustion, so some may want to swap out the OEM NGK and use the Denso plugs for long duration high RPM usage.

Some racers re-gap plugs to allow for dwell change. Widening the gap slightly will weaken the intensity and increase duration of the spark. Closing gap slightly will intensify the spark along with shortening its duration.

Honda J35Z2 & J35Z3 - NGK ILZKR7B11 w/ .044 GAP
Acura J37A4 - Denso SXU22HCR11


Wiring up to switched power:

I created a thread about wiring into a relay control in the engine compartment.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=72987

Below is my location for the controls as the pocket area is big enough to hold and allows an easy run for power from the relay / fuse box.

[BPearl2010]

Sooooo.. How much you want??? hahaha

Great work man!

[Artema]

Looking good.

[Metal Metalic]

BPearl2010 & Artema,

Thx for your inputs... I would not mind doing this as a kit, unfortunately there are costs and time limitations along with my marriage.

I donno, I prolly could build a IMT driver install kit for sale, as it is not all that expensive over modding an IM for OEM TB installs.

The Honda relay control unit (38254-TA6-A01) in the engine compartment fuse/relay box is about $48.00, and it is used in both V6 models, so one kit does all makes it simple. Though it adds to the total price of the plug n play controller.

As if I were to make such a kit, it would be plug n play, no soldering or splicing. :o)

Here is a list of Lowes components that I used in my own design for holding relay A and my delay circuit.

I could have prolly custom fit both relay A & B inside if I made modifications to my layout on the circuit board. Any relay to be added inside would need removal of one side of the isolating wall that seals around the connector plug that is not used. So that wires can be guided to the circuit board without pinching against the walls of the box.

1 Gang Junction box

1 Gang Junction box cover

As for the metal TB gasket that is sandwiched between two 2008 Oddy TB gaskets. Required when drilling Siamesed bolt holes with existing holes for proper centering and fitment. Only needed for OEM intakes, a P2R adapter for easy install with CAI or SRI.

Lowes has some 4"x4" metal sheet in the conduit box section. Perfect for such a task, though you may have a difficult time cutting with tin snips. A grinder or metal cutting blade will do. Also, to cut a perfect circle, I use a 2-3/4" hole saw. Link is below.

2-3/4" Hole saw

[hondaracer4vtec]

Hey, for the 6-6 I used 9 bolts of this

95701-08105-08 - Long Bolt (8x105) $1.50 x 7 (9)

they work out fine for the MDX spacer. milled at 5/8's

GREAT JOB!!

[Metal Metalic]

Originally Posted by hondaracer4vtec

Hey, for the 6-6 I used 9 bolts of this

95701-08105-08 - Long Bolt (8x105) $1.50 x 7 (9)

they work out fine for the MDX spacer. milled at 5/8's

I am not sure, there is a few threads on milled IM spacers. One of which has the proper lengths. Fastenal carries them IIRC.

I think the original thread is on V6performance.net... though you will need to create an account.

[hondaracer4vtec]

i got v6p account. i already installed that IM on my car. lengths is good at getting 9 of them fits snug

[Metal Metalic]

Originally Posted by hondaracer4vtec

i got v6p account. i already installed that IM on my car. lengths is good at getting 9 of them fits snug

Well I guess there is enough thread area for the OEM bolts with a milled MDX spacer.

Not sure if your using a therma shield gasket for the base???

The only trouble I foresee is which end the machinist mills. Both ends look the same, but there is a taper.

[BPearl2010]

Originally Posted by hondaracer4vtec

i got v6p account. i already installed that IM on my car. lengths is good at getting 9 of them fits snug

+1.

i have the full size MDX spacer works get..

[BPearl2010]

Originally Posted by Metal Metalic

BPearl2010 & Artema,

Thx for your inputs... I would not mind doing this as a kit, unfortunately there are costs and time limitations along with my marriage.

I donno, I prolly could build a IMT driver install kit for sale as it is not all that expensive over modding an IM for OEM TB installs.

The Honda relay control unit (38254-TA6-A01) in the engine compartment fuse/relay box is about $48.00, and it is used in both V6 models, so one kit does all makes it simple. Though it adds to the total price of the plug n play controller.

As if I were to make such a kit, it would be plug n play, no soldering or splicing. :o)

Here is a list of Lowes components that I used in my own design for holding relay A and my delay circuit.

I could have prolly custom fit both relay A & B inside if I made modifications to my layout on the circuit board. Any relay to be added inside would need removal of one side of the isolating wall that seals around the connector plug that is not used. So that wires can be guided to the circuit board without pinching against the walls of the box.

1 Gang Junction box

1 Gang Junction box cover

As for the metal TB gasket that is sandwiched between two 2008 Oddy TB gaskets. Required when drilling Siamesed bolt holes with existing holes for proper centering and fitment. Only needed for OEM intakes, a P2R adapter for easy install with CAI or SRI.

Lowes has some 4"x4" metal sheet in the conduit box section. Perfect for such a task, though you may have a difficult time cutting with tin snips. A grinder or metal cutting blade will do. Also to cut a perfect circle I use a 2-3/4" hole saw. Link is below.

2-3/4" Hole saw

so ill repeat my question lmk if you will build it for me for plug and play application.. lol..

[Metal Metalic]

Originally Posted by BPearl2010

so ill repeat my question lmk if you will build it for me for plug and play application.. lol..

I will have to give it some thought about it, right now my thoughts are for finishing up my long anticipated thread.

There are a number of factors to why I am not so Gung Ho.

Mostly it comes from the lack of having the entrepreneur gene along with wanting privacy from every Tom, Dick, and Harry. HA!!!

Along with being as reasonable as possible to make it worth your money for my time for assembly, testing, and support.

I have gotten by with what scrap I have for so long, so I will have to source all new parts that are needed to make a full plug n play kit.

The Honda relay controller is the pricey thing being around $50.00 just to allow Plug n Play, as I would prefer a piggy back plug with a tap on pin 10 for the connection for Plug n Play, which could be $4.00 if there was one.

Being just one kit, makes it not so cost effective compared to most aftermarket kits.

Including modding a subsonic filter for use as an RPM switch, which I did not put on my thread.

The subsonic filter mod will do just fine and only needs one connection from an injector lead.

My original low pass crossover mod would have worked if my IMT circuit had been designed differently, though it required two injector lead connections.

I will let you know next month about what I will do or not do.

Thanks for your enthusiasm and support!

[Metal Metalic]

OK, here is my final test with MPG... All numbers are rounded down.

Note: I have an OEM exhaust. So, low to mid range torque will be greater than cat back setups. Also, I have full synthetic tranny fluid, and 20w-0 engine oil.

City MPG:

Worst - 17 (mostly stop & go)
Best - 21


Highway MPG:

Worst - 31 (A full run doing, 30 miles @ 85 MPH, 10 miles heavy construction & detours, 170 miles cruising at 2500RPM - 73MPH)
Best - 36 (Flat road 5 mph winds minimal traffic - 100 miles @ 70 MPH)


Performance:

ECO mode stays stable going on gradual inclines and light acceleration. Depending on degree of incline, ECO mode kicks out for 1 second but engages while still climbing. All being between 2200 RPM and 2700 RPM.

Going though hilly roads, ECO mode stays disengaged but gear hunting is minimal if not not existent.

Note: 5th gear will not allow acceleration, so a mild torque jerk will happen when 4th is engaged automatically.

Also, Cruise Control seems less to hunt between ECO and normal engine modes.

While cruising at 73 MPH on an incline without adding throttle, I noticed the speed slightly decreased to 70MPH and stabilized without kicking out of ECO mode.

I was also able accelerate to pass a truck and trailer while keeping ECO mode on. It took about 13 seconds once the engine RPM increased 100 RPM. Not bad for wind turbulence from the large truck.


Wide open throttle above 4000 RPM:

Well there is no way for me to determine significant performance gain, since no dyno has been performed before and after IM swap.

There is only the above 4000 RPM WOT growl of the engine to show for the IM upgrade. I wonder if it is what the 6-6 guys are talking about with hearing V-tec kick in.

Though all VCM engines with intake mods will say they get the WOT growl through out the RPM range. :o) Gosh I miss that!!! But that is only when I take off.

Now I am sort of sneaky, hardly enough growl to warn my victim I am going to pass. :o)~

[hondaracer4vtec]

Originally Posted by Metal Metalic

There is only the above 4000 RPM WOT growl of the engine to show for the IM upgrade. I wonder if it is what the 6-6 guys are talking about with hearing V-tec kick in.

Yes 6-6 chirp within a gear when vtec hits...at around 4500 rpms or so.. i dont look down at the speedo..engine noise tells it all

[Metal Metalic]

Originally Posted by hondaracer4vtec

Yes 6-6 chirp within a gear when vtec hits...at around 4500 rpms or so.. i dont look down at the speedo..engine noise tells it all

OK, just some information I got was lacking that. Thanx!

As for V-tec kick in... No, your VCM engine won't do that with this IM.

Though it will bring more torque right where you need it for Honda 5 spd automatics.

Until Honda starts using the flapper butterfly IM on VCM engines, there won't be the quickness you can get with one.

This is a kewl mod that should be available for VCM engines, by an aftermarket house, but is not. :o(

[aN4rk1]

Mind my stupidity, IM is what? Ignition module?