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#46
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Its not a pulse. I found out by hooking up my mulitmeter to the light and it read 2Volts.
Getting the 9005 extension harness would have been a good idea. I should have ordered one instead of slicing into the factory harness =( But yeah, that's exactly what I did. |
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#47
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Im 100% sure it doesn't pulse. Stuck my multimeter and checked low and high beams.
Yeah I should have ordered TRS's 9005 extension. I cut into my OEM harness =( but yeah that is exactly what I did. |
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#48
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Some of the images links died so here are new links.
I can't edit first post? Can mod maybe fix if s/he see's this ![]() Cuttof images: ![]()
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#49
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Quote:
![]() It was your post and good idea that got me thinking, ya that wiring just makes better sense - really, the only thing you need to power via splicing is the solenoid. I just couldn't get the multimeter far enough under the protective sheath to contact the terminals and determine what was going on during DRL operation. Jeez, having both the xenon and parabolic high beams together are going to make for some bright riding, haha! Thanks again. |
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#50
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Yeah i had difficulties getting the multimeter in there as well. I wrapped a wire around my multimeter pole, and spliced the other end but only used a few strands to stick it into the holes.
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#51
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Here is a poorly drawn schematic for anyone else that needs one:
![]() Here is the relay you can use: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3020762 |
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#52
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Hm. Ok now, I'm confused.
This looks different than what I thought. I am very new to wiring, so bear with me. What are the relay labels (ie 85/87/30) here? So the solenoid only hooks to the relay via positive, and then to the chassis. Got that. The positive feed from the battery connects into the relay via one pole, and then exits the relay via another and continues onto the bulb. What about the negative feed from the harness? I don't see that entering the relay. I see where the negative feed from the bulb goes...? Does my question make sense? Sorry about that. |
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#53
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You don't really need to enter any of negatives/grounds.
A ground is a ground. Whether its a black wire, the chassis or the negative pole on your battery. It's all the same. |
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#54
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#55
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Okay.
I think I'm wrapping my head around this. What would the relay pole numbers be, clockwise from the battery 12v? |
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#56
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The other thing with the diagram that I wondering about, is the 12V from the battery going in - isnt the 12V from the 9005 harness the 12V source? Or are there now 2 12V sources needing to go into it?
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#57
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I would use the 12volt source from the battery. Its more constant. You can use the 12 volt source from the 9005 harness if you want.
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#58
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I think it's clear that I have more to learn about relays.
I will go and do some study work and figure this out - I'm sure what you've put down makes sense. ![]() If you can easily take a picture of your wiring harness down there, that'd be great. Otherwise, it should be fine. I'll make it work! |
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#60
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Fair enough. And you sir, are super helpful.
Ok, this is what I am gathering happens... Pins 85 and 86 are spliced into the high beam circuit, with the harness's + going to 86, and the ground to 85. On DRL mode, the voltage is insufficient to charge the magnet to throw the control arm at 30 to connect it to 87. When 86 is hot (high beams on), the magnet is energized, connecting 30 to 87 - hence, the requirement for the 12V source being attached to 30 for when that connection is made, so that the solenoid can be powered. Is that right, and if so, am I supposed to run 2 positive cables from the battery (one for each side_ directly to the solenoids? |
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