AXLE BOOT leaking

[E.Yovanni]

I was under my i4 Accord checking the filter on my CAI, and decided to take a look under around the tranny case (thinking about doing MTF change) and noticed that there was a crazy mess of grease around the axle boot on the driver's side, as if the boot was spraying 360 degrees around it. I just called my mechanic, he told me that when an axle boot needs replacement the whole axle should be replaced. Anybody has any input on this?

[E.Yovanni]

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...T)&vinsrch=yes

Looking on the parts site, I think I would only need part #2: Boot set.

[Ryan_W]

You are referring to the constant velocity, or "CV" joint. It is the component that allows the axle to connect from the transmission to the wheel hub. If it's torn and throwing grease everywhere, that joint as well as its protective boot will need to be replaced. Often, the simplest and most economical choice is to replace the entire axle.

You should not replace the boot only. As soon as the boot is torn, dirt and other abrasives are dumped into the CV joint. The loss of protective grease from the centrifugal force of the spinning axle exacerbates this problem. Who knows how long that has been happening under there, with damage accumulating. If you were to replace the boot only, the axle would still have to come apart, the joint soaked in acetone, and you'd have and repack the entire joint with grease. And if there was damage, when you begin using it again - eventually the joint will start clicking, then grinding, and then finally it will break - and you'd have to replace the entire unit all over again. I would second your mechanic's opinion.

[BLCKFLSH]

Since at least some of the grease has come out of the boot, some dirt from the road has also gotten into the axle joint. I think you have to remove the axle, to change the boot anyway, so you would be paying the same labor just to change the boot. Do you want to pay, just to have the boot changed, then have a rock that made it's way into the boot destroy the CV joint, and have to pay again soon? I would replace the entire axle. I think there are some boots you can put on, without removing the axle, but I wouldn't go that route.

[CarlR33]

It is common and the most economical to replace the entire axle. Most likely the same labor rate for axle replace vs. just the cv joint. I had one replaced on my wifes toyota.

[Giuseppe1]

Hey could you post a picture of the leak? I think I have the same thing on my drivers side also. It would be nice to see where the leak is coming from on yours and then compare.

[andetheninja]

replace the whole joint. $60 at autozone. 1-2 hours to install it diy.

[digitalh3lix]

I've done the axles on my car 3x. Its defiantly not a fun job. I first bought the GSP's from advanced auto. I swear they were worse than my original problem I started with. So I ended up putting the OEM's back on and I ordered a set from Raxles. Raxles has very high quality builds but they are priced almost double any local shop. brand new OEM's are like 400 a side. So good luck.

[Yury]

I looked at replacing an axle for my Prelude and after some research it seemed that getting a reman A1 Cardone from Napa would be the best way. They are about $100 a pop here in Canada which is not too bad. These seem to get decent reviews.
And according to my research and some personal experience aftermarket is trouble. I once ordered one for my mitsubushi, my mechanic installed it and I got a transmission fluid leak because the axle did not have a locking collar like the OEM. Ended up rebuilding the original axle and throwing the replacement one into the garbage.

[Jeff]

www.rockauto.com

I've heard bad things about A1 Cardone... There are other brands on that website that are only about $60 a side.

[E.Yovanni]

Originally Posted by Ryan_W

You are referring to the constant velocity, or "CV" joint. It is the component that allows the axle to connect from the transmission to the wheel hub. If it's torn and throwing grease everywhere, that joint as well as its protective boot will need to be replaced. Often, the simplest and most economical choice is to replace the entire axle.

You should not replace the boot only. As soon as the boot is torn, dirt and other abrasives are dumped into the CV joint. The loss of protective grease from the centrifugal force of the spinning axle exacerbates this problem. Who knows how long that has been happening under there, with damage accumulating. If you were to replace the boot only, the axle would still have to come apart, the joint soaked in acetone, and you'd have and repack the entire joint with grease. And if there was damage, when you begin using it again - eventually the joint will start clicking, then grinding, and then finally it will break - and you'd have to replace the entire unit all over again. I would second your mechanic's opinion.

Originally Posted by BLCKFLSH

Since at least some of the grease has come out of the boot, some dirt from the road has also gotten into the axle joint. I think you have to remove the axle, to change the boot anyway, so you would be paying the same labor just to change the boot. Do you want to pay, just to have the boot changed, then have a rock that made it's way into the boot destroy the CV joint, and have to pay again soon? I would replace the entire axle. I think there are some boots you can put on, without removing the axle, but I wouldn't go that route.

Thanks for the input guys, those explanations make a lot of sense. I cant seem to find any holes on the boot, but since it spins with such force that it wouldn't take a big hole for the pressure to squirt its grease out. The mechanic tells me he can change the axle for $180.00 including labor. Now if an OEM Honda axle costs 470.00, how cheap is the axle that the mechanic wants to put on my car?

[Yury]

Originally Posted by Jeff

www.rockauto.com

I've heard bad things about A1 Cardone... There are other brands on that website that are only about $60 a side.

I'd stay away of 60$ a side type of other brands. A reman oem should be better than most of these, some of those are just garbage.
Seriously...a 75$ axle I dealt with was horrible - didn't fit right and the CV joint didn't feel smooth. I also read posts of mechanics saying that the failure rate of aftermarket axles is really high, unless it's something high-end like raxles.

Anyhow, just be very careful and do lots of research. Don't repeat my mistake.

[E.Yovanni]

Originally Posted by Yury

I'd stay away of 60$ a side type of other brands. A reman oem should be better than most of these, some of those are just garbage.
Seriously...a 75$ axle I dealt with was horrible - didn't fit right and the CV joint didn't feel smooth. I also read posts of mechanics saying that the failure rate of aftermarket axles is really high, unless it's something high-end like raxles.

Anyhow, just be very careful and do lots of research. Don't repeat my mistake.

Thanks for the input Yury, Ill take that into consideration. I dont like putting cheap parts on my car, they cost more in the long run. I rather save and spend a little more for quality.

[E.Yovanni]

Originally Posted by Giuseppe1

Hey could you post a picture of the leak? I think I have the same thing on my drivers side also. It would be nice to see where the leak is coming from on yours and then compare.

I didnt take pictures of it, but either way I think its more of a slit rather than a hole. I didnt see big damage on it or it being loose at all but the mess of grease is still there the speed of the axle rotating at 70+ mph must be forcing the grease out.

[accordinGB]

So now we know that very bad things happen when the boot leaks and nasties get in.

To avoid this, should the boots be proactively replaced to avoid this? When?