Price Paid and Discussion Thread: How much did you pay for your 9th gen Accord

[Nospleen]

Originally Posted by MikeySoft

What is an "In & Out"

Do you mean cash, no trade, no extras like extended warrantee?

It means you sell the car you are trading, let's say for 20k. You then tell the dealer you have your car sold and want to trade it in, but you already have a buyer. The dealer gives you 20k for the trade, they then sell to your buyer for the 20k. The benefit to you would be that you would not have to pay tax on up to 20k on your new purchase.

[MikeySoft]

Originally Posted by Nospleen

It means you sell the car you are trading, let's say for 20k. You then tell the dealer you have your car sold and want to trade it in, but you already have a buyer. The dealer gives you 20k for the trade, they then sell to your buyer for the 20k. The benefit to you would be that you would not have to pay tax on up to 20k on your new purchase.

Is there a benefit for the dealer and buyer?

[Nospleen]

Originally Posted by MikeySoft

Is there a benefit for the dealer and buyer?

The dealer sells a new car. No real benefit to the buyer, except they may have negotiated a better private party deal vs what they would have paid at a dealer for a similar vehicle.

[grover432]

Originally Posted by jeremyp969

Doc fee is $199. I'm in Northern Virginia. I wasn't able to find anything about incentives. My goal with each car is to be about 2k under invoice which hasn't been a problem in the past....but my last car was an '07 odyssey at $2200 under invoice. Doesn't sound like it should be too tough. Will wait until next month to really start shopping.

Do you always buy year end models that are being cleared out to get an average of $2,200 below invoice? If you are buying a current model year, I'd like to know how you have been successful buying than much below invoice.

In Canada, the Touring lists for $35,000. If Edmunds is right and there is a 3% hold back based on the MSRP, that would mean they have $1,050 in hold back available. So based on those numbers, without a factory incentive, how do you (or I) get to an invoice minus $2,200 deal?

Can you post the paperwork on one of those deals, blanking out your name and the dealer's name (if you like)?

Thanks.

G

[Husker]

Originally Posted by MikeySoft

What is an "In & Out"

Do you mean cash, no trade, no extras like extended warrantee?

Originally Posted by Nospleen

It means you sell the car you are trading, let's say for 20k. You then tell the dealer you have your car sold and want to trade it in, but you already have a buyer. The dealer gives you 20k for the trade, they then sell to your buyer for the 20k. The benefit to you would be that you would not have to pay tax on up to 20k on your new purchase.

Thanks Nospleen, pretty much spot on answer.

Originally Posted by MikeySoft

Is there a benefit for the dealer and buyer?

Originally Posted by Nospleen

The dealer sells a new car. No real benefit to the buyer, except they may have negotiated a better private party deal vs what they would have paid at a dealer for a similar vehicle.

I feel it's a huge advantage to the Buyer.

If, you can get a good deal (not that hard to do) on your car from a private sale, then, get a good cash deal from the dealer (harder to do), you then get a (In my case) 7% tax break on your private sale price. Trade in is good for the Dealer and Partially for the Buyer (If your too lazy to sell it on your own), in most cases.

Some Dealers will charge a small fee for doing the transaction, OK, if it's $100.00 or less.

[datdude77]

Originally Posted by grewupmanual

A good deal is a state of mind. You dont ask for a discount when you pay for a $100 pair of shoes that cost $20 to make. If your job was based on profit margin, you would be singing a different tune. I chose this professional and i love every day i come to work. It has been very rewarding both mentanally and finiancially.

[MikeySoft]

Originally Posted by datdude77

If you were in the industry, your opinion will be different. Also to let you know, my dealership has sold several 2013 accords, none no where near invoice. Thats a weak dealership to give in. Thats why those dealerships have high turnover rate and their salespeople dont make money. Also, less discount means higher trade value which is win for the consumer. But let me guess, you all ready knew this.

So both new and used cars will cost more. This is not a win for the consumer!

[Husker]

Originally Posted by datdude77

A good deal is a state of mind. You dont ask for a discount when you pay for a $100 pair of shoes that cost $20 to make. If your job was based on profit margin, you would be singing a different tune. I chose this professional and i love every day i come to work. It has been very rewarding both mentanally and finiancially.

Come onnn MAN...

I respect your profession, I just don't like having to play the GAME, when I go shopping for a pair of shoes I know the price marked is the price, if I like it, I buy it, now walking into a Dealership you don't know the TRUE PRICE, It's like going to the Dentist, you never know how it's gonna turn out, but you have a good idea.

[grover432]

Originally Posted by datdude77

A good deal is a state of mind. You dont ask for a discount when you pay for a $100 pair of shoes that cost $20 to make. If your job was based on profit margin, you would be singing a different tune. I chose this professional and i love every day i come to work. It has been very rewarding both mentanally and finiancially.

I was at Home Depot last week buying some pot light boxes. I had purchased 30 at a wholesaler in town and needed 3 more. The wholesaler was closed so I went to Home Depot. Their price was $7.00 more per box. I spoke to a guy in the department and they marked them down to match. Most companies in the electronics business match other companies. When you go to Best Buy, you can often negotiate a better price than the sticker on the item. In Canada, I was able to get 50% off an HDMI cable at Future Shop. From $30.00 down to $15.00. The same cable was available on their website for $9.99!!

As to shoe purchases, maybe you won't get a discount, but they go on sale, so when they do that is when I buy. I see allot of other people buying at that time too.

I'm sorry as a car salesman you have to put up with negotiating, but like other areas on the market, it is the established way. Toyota tried, in Canada to go to "fixed pricing" several years ago, but it failed. I believe it was against the competition act, but that is a different argument.

[grewupmanual]

Originally Posted by grover432

I was at Home Depot last week buying some pot light boxes. I had purchased 30 at a wholesaler in town and needed 3 more. The wholesaler was closed so I went to Home Depot. Their price was $7.00 more per box. I spoke to a guy in the department and they marked them down to match. Most companies in the electronics business match other companies. When you go to Best Buy, you can often negotiate a better price than the sticker on the item. In Canada, I was able to get 50% off an HDMI cable at Future Shop. From $30.00 down to $15.00. The same cable was available on their website for $9.99!!

As to shoe purchases, maybe you won't get a discount, but they go on sale, so when they do that is when I buy. I see allot of other people buying at that time too.

I'm sorry as a car salesman you have to put up with negotiating, but like other areas on the market, it is the established way. Toyota tried, in Canada to go to "fixed pricing" several years ago, but it failed. I believe it was against the competition act, but that is a different argument.

[MikeySoft]

This is mostly as a FYI.

A different Honda dealer then the one I ordered my 2013 from sent me a survey about my internet experience. My experience with this dealership in West Roxbury, MA was not very good. I would answer a survey from the dealership I ordered my 2013 from and 2 other dealers more favorably.

Anyway, the survey was mostly multiple chose but had a place for comments.

The comments I added to the survey

Tina XXX first gave quotes for the wrong car. She did not answer many of my other questions. She just gave back the standard (almost computer generated) replies which did not addressed my questions. It took 3 emails for her so send me a copy of the "Lifetime Power Train" Agreement.

Shawn XXX was very sarcastic. He even said "I hate to sound sarcastic, but ..." He then tried to promote the dealership by saying things like they include a full take a gas and inspection sticker. Honda requires a full tank of gas and all dealers' doc fee cover the inspection sticker. I shopped many dealers before buying my 2013 from a different dealership and yours was the worst.

[jeremyp969]

Originally Posted by grover432

Do you always buy year end models that are being cleared out to get an average of $2,200 below invoice? If you are buying a current model year, I'd like to know how you have been successful buying than much below invoice.

In Canada, the Touring lists for $35,000. If Edmunds is right and there is a 3% hold back based on the MSRP, that would mean they have $1,050 in hold back available. So based on those numbers, without a factory incentive, how do you (or I) get to an invoice minus $2,200 deal?

Can you post the paperwork on one of those deals, blanking out your name and the dealer's name (if you like)?

Thanks.

G

To be honest, I don't know how they sell it so cheaply unless when I bought both my 2004 Civic and my 2007 Odyssey there were additional incentives. In both cases I got the whole speach abuot how they are losing money, etc. etc. He did tell me that his dealership makes a vast majority of their money on service, not sales.

To directly answer your question, no I buy the cars soon after they come out. I bought our Odyssey in October of 2006 and the Civic in January of 2004(and I did the same for my Mom's 2007 Accord in Feb of 2007). All I do is get quotes from dealers within 100 miles of me via E-mail(Edmunds) then start responding to ones that aren't the lowest with this dealer is giving me this price and so on. Might take a few days of e-mails but by the time you get to the dealer you're in and out in 1-2 hours. And that includes them selling you on the undercoating, paint protection, seat protection and a flux capacitor.

I can't speak for Canada though...not sure if they discount like they do here. I'm lucky enough to have 10 or so dealerships within 35 miles of me.

[buff1]

Silver Accord Sport CVT w/ tint and all weather mats. Paid 23.5 OTD.

[FlipAccord13]

Without getting into final numbers and this is before TTL and before warranties applied here is what I got for my purchase of a '12 Accord EX-L V6 back in July and the trade-in value and price for me '13 Accord EX-L V6

'12 Accord EX-L V6 MSRP Sticker Price: $30,560
Got it for: $26,000
Savings: $4,560 with a %0.9 APR

'13 Accord EX-L V6 MSRP Sticker Price $30,860
'12 Accord Trade In Value: $23,500*

'12 Balance remaining added to '13: $7360
'13 Balance after adding '12 Balance: $38,220
Put $2000 down

Total before warranties and TTL: $36,220 with %2.94 APR

I didn't disclose the warranties, taxes, etc since the numbers just get complicated to explain so I kept it simple.

They did not budge to get the MSRP down on the '13 though they gave me a great trade in value seeing that Edmunds, NADA, Kelley, and Blackbook were listing this at around $21,500 for dealer trade. Plus I looked at the dealer website and they already had my '12 I traded posted for around $26,995 Certified so I already knew they were going to get their money back and both parties are satisfied. My friend who guided me through this transaction did his absolute best and made sure I got the best price for the trade in instead.

[nozneb]

howdy

checked out exl v6 with navi at a local dealer in houston.
thy quotes 30,950 and OTD like at 33800.

is that a fair price?