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  #61  
Old 09-20-2012, 12:20 PM
lockdown36 lockdown36 is offline
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You got it! now hopefully you don't forget when it comes around to retrofit it lol!

Instead of having two connectors to the battery I did this, one connector and split it.
And have a fuse before the split


I'm not 100% sure how a solenoid functions but those people who just splice the solenoid into the DRL i feel like might have issues with the solenoid getting stuck, because there's that constant 2V being supplied to a solenoid. I dont know what happens to a solenoid when its being under powered but I'm sure thats not good for it. Thats why I did the relay route.
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  #62  
Old 09-24-2012, 11:17 AM
soclean soclean is offline
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Makes me want to do mine
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  #63  
Old 10-24-2012, 09:07 PM
evident evident is offline
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Is there any way to maintain the DRL functionality with this kit? or does it completely go away
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oem foglights
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  #64  
Old 10-24-2012, 11:47 PM
lockdown36 lockdown36 is offline
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Yes. DRL works. I went out of my way to disable mine.
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  #65  
Old 10-25-2012, 09:23 AM
evident evident is offline
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so if you just did the M H1 retrofit and put everything back together, where would the DRL come from, the new HID or other bulb? please help me clear up my confusion, thanks!!
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2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4
Nighthawk Black Pearl w/ HFP body kit
Mini H1 HID's
oem foglights
99000 miles
35% Tints
Kenwood KDC-X993 head unit w/ Alpine PDX 4.150 Amp and Focal Access 165 A1 component fronts, 690CA1 rears

Other Cars that i maintain
2007 Lexus RX350 70000 miles
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  #66  
Old 10-25-2012, 10:43 AM
lockdown36 lockdown36 is offline
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The DRL function of the bulb is combined with your highbeam.

In this project, I did not touch the high beam.
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  #67  
Old 10-25-2012, 04:37 PM
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DreaminAccord DreaminAccord is offline
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For those of you who want to retro a bixenon low beam and keep your DRL halogen high-beam, you could always order the 9007 BiXenon wiring harness from TRS instead of the 9006 low-beam harness. Your high beam/DRL will stay connected to the factory harness and work as usual, while the 9007 BiX harness will provide you a secure relayed harness to run your HID setup including the correct BiXenon solenoid connectors.

9006 & 9007 connectors are identical, the only mod that you will need to perform is by swapping the two wires (orange & blue pins - the black (ground) stays in the middle) on the new harness where it connects to your factory low beam halogen harness.
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'07 EX-L V6 Coupe w/ Navi
Graphite Pearl / Black Leather

TL Bi-Xenon Retro | TSX LED Mirrors | Spec-D Fog Lamps | 30% Tint | Alpine Sub System | BlitzSafe AUX | USA Spec BlueTooth
OEM HFP Kit | Trunk Spoiler | CCD Back-up Cam | Tein Coilovers | Ingalls Camber Kit | H&R TRAK+
Winter: Honda 18" 10-Spokes / Continental DWS
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  #68  
Old 11-12-2012, 10:16 AM
ff6800 ff6800 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreaminAccord View Post
For those of you who want to retro a bixenon low beam and keep your DRL halogen high-beam, you could always order the 9007 BiXenon wiring harness from TRS instead of the 9006 low-beam harness. Your high beam/DRL will stay connected to the factory harness and work as usual, while the 9007 BiX harness will provide you a secure relayed harness to run your HID setup including the correct BiXenon solenoid connectors.

9006 & 9007 connectors are identical, the only mod that you will need to perform is by swapping the two wires (orange & blue pins - the black (ground) stays in the middle) on the new harness where it connects to your factory low beam halogen harness.
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but if I wanted to keep the stock DRL feature, would I need two relays per headlight [one for high beams, one for low] or just one? Could you go into a bit more detail how I would go about connecting it all?
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  #69  
Old 11-12-2012, 10:20 AM
lockdown36 lockdown36 is offline
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I only disabled DRL for the "Audi styled" LEDs
If you don't want those, your DRLs will be untouched. The bi-xenon function hooks up to your high beam.

You can just use one relay for it.

I'll draw a circuit diagram in a bit.
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  #70  
Old 11-12-2012, 07:53 PM
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Dieseltiger Dieseltiger is offline
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so clean, my headlights got too many glares
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  #71  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:18 PM
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DreaminAccord DreaminAccord is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ff6800 View Post
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but if I wanted to keep the stock DRL feature, would I need two relays per headlight [one for high beams, one for low] or just one? Could you go into a bit more detail how I would go about connecting it all?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lockdown36 View Post
I only disabled DRL for the "Audi styled" LEDs
If you don't want those, your DRLs will be untouched. The bi-xenon function hooks up to your high beam.

You can just use one relay for it.

I'll draw a circuit diagram in a bit.
Lockdown is correct in that you can use 1 relay. Please be aware that without the use of a relay specifically for your DRL/High Beam, which is a separate wiring in the OEM harness, you run the risk of ruining the high beam solenoid on your BiXenon projector. Basically, your DRL is your high beam bulb running at a lower wattage (about 2V). The high beam, when engaged, runs at the standard 12V. The DRL sends constant pulses through the OEM wiring harness, and is controlled by a DRL module, to determine whether or not the low-beam is engaged (which disables the DRL).

Without a relay to separate the BiXenon projector's solenoid input and the DRL, your BiX solenoid will have a constant flicker (down/up/down/up...) because of the constant pulses that the DRL function sends/receives - this can lead to premature malfunctioning / wearing out of the projector's solenoid.

You want to basically wire a relay that only opens when the 12V high beam is engaged, and closes when not.

You can search the Accord forums as many have posted regarding this topic, or head over to HIDPlanet where this topic is overly discussed in the Wiring section. I highly advise any new retrofitter / person(s) who think they may be interested in trying a retrofit, to head over to HIDP and do some homework. There is outstanding information there that has be contributed by many of us retrofitters


However you will not need a diode (the triangle connecting lo & high in diagram), as our low beam stays on when the 12V high beam is engaged. You will use the low beam harness to determine for the relay whether or not the high beam function is engaged/disengaged

Quote:
Originally Posted by fenix View Post
Yep, the coil is 85/86, and 30/87/(87a) are the switched contacts. StupidPig posted exactly how I wired mine up with the exception of the diode. I used one relay for both solenoids and used the weather pack 9006 connectors from one high beam splitter and the pig tail they send to power up the ballasts for off the car alignment.



When the ballasts are on, the relay is closed. But since the DRL's (and high beams) are off there is no current through the relay to the solenoids. Once the high beam is switched on, the current flows to both the high beam and the solenoids.



The accords use both the low and high beam reflectors when high beam is active.
DRL Wiring & Other Various Questions

Dual Lamp DRL Questions

...and many more


@ ff6800: I hope this was the level of detail you were seeking...?
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'07 EX-L V6 Coupe w/ Navi
Graphite Pearl / Black Leather

TL Bi-Xenon Retro | TSX LED Mirrors | Spec-D Fog Lamps | 30% Tint | Alpine Sub System | BlitzSafe AUX | USA Spec BlueTooth
OEM HFP Kit | Trunk Spoiler | CCD Back-up Cam | Tein Coilovers | Ingalls Camber Kit | H&R TRAK+
Winter: Honda 18" 10-Spokes / Continental DWS
Summer: Hyundai 19" Dual 5-Spokes / Hankook V12 Evo
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  #72  
Old 11-13-2012, 03:11 AM
sodaks2k sodaks2k is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseltiger View Post
so clean, my headlights got too many glares
That's what happens when you replace halogen bulbs with hid's without doing a retrofit.
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  #73  
Old 11-13-2012, 07:57 AM
ff6800 ff6800 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreaminAccord View Post
Lockdown is correct in that you can use 1 relay. Please be aware that without the use of a relay specifically for your DRL/High Beam, which is a separate wiring in the OEM harness, you run the risk of ruining the high beam solenoid on your BiXenon projector. Basically, your DRL is your high beam bulb running at a lower wattage (about 2V). The high beam, when engaged, runs at the standard 12V. The DRL sends constant pulses through the OEM wiring harness, and is controlled by a DRL module, to determine whether or not the low-beam is engaged (which disables the DRL).

Without a relay to separate the BiXenon projector's solenoid input and the DRL, your BiX solenoid will have a constant flicker (down/up/down/up...) because of the constant pulses that the DRL function sends/receives - this can lead to premature malfunctioning / wearing out of the projector's solenoid.

You want to basically wire a relay that only opens when the 12V high beam is engaged, and closes when not.

You can search the Accord forums as many have posted regarding this topic, or head over to HIDPlanet where this topic is overly discussed in the Wiring section. I highly advise any new retrofitter / person(s) who think they may be interested in trying a retrofit, to head over to HIDP and do some homework. There is outstanding information there that has be contributed by many of us retrofitters


However you will not need a diode (the triangle connecting lo & high in diagram), as our low beam stays on when the 12V high beam is engaged. You will use the low beam harness to determine for the relay whether or not the high beam function is engaged/disengaged



DRL Wiring & Other Various Questions

Dual Lamp DRL Questions

...and many more


@ ff6800: I hope this was the level of detail you were seeking...?
That's pretty thorough! So aside from the hid kit from TRS, I would have to purchase a pair of relays from my local radioshack, and high beam splitters? Or could it be possible to use the supplied relays in the kit? How about fuses?

Thanks in advance!
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  #74  
Old 11-13-2012, 11:44 AM
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DreaminAccord DreaminAccord is offline
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The TRS kit is already supplied with the necessary fuses/relays for the low beam. You could definitely benefit from the high-beam splitters, purchased from TRS, to save you on some redundant wiring, and yes - you will need to stop at a store and pick up an additional relay for the high beams
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Ben

'07 EX-L V6 Coupe w/ Navi
Graphite Pearl / Black Leather

TL Bi-Xenon Retro | TSX LED Mirrors | Spec-D Fog Lamps | 30% Tint | Alpine Sub System | BlitzSafe AUX | USA Spec BlueTooth
OEM HFP Kit | Trunk Spoiler | CCD Back-up Cam | Tein Coilovers | Ingalls Camber Kit | H&R TRAK+
Winter: Honda 18" 10-Spokes / Continental DWS
Summer: Hyundai 19" Dual 5-Spokes / Hankook V12 Evo
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  #75  
Old 11-20-2012, 05:40 PM
ff6800 ff6800 is offline
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Alright so i did most all of the work today, before I ran out of daylight... The low beams turned out fantastic! but unfortunately when i flip on the high beams, only the passenger side lights up. Here's what I did for the relay circuit to keep my drl's, wired off of the drivers side using a high beam splitter... could this be depriving the driver side high beam bulb of too many amps thus causing my problem?
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