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#61
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You got it! now hopefully you don't forget when it comes around to retrofit it lol!
Instead of having two connectors to the battery I did this, one connector and split it. And have a fuse before the split ![]() I'm not 100% sure how a solenoid functions but those people who just splice the solenoid into the DRL i feel like might have issues with the solenoid getting stuck, because there's that constant 2V being supplied to a solenoid. I dont know what happens to a solenoid when its being under powered but I'm sure thats not good for it. Thats why I did the relay route. |
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#62
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Makes me want to do mine
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#63
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Is there any way to maintain the DRL functionality with this kit? or does it completely go away
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2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 Nighthawk Black Pearl w/ HFP body kit Mini H1 HID's oem foglights 99000 miles 35% Tints Kenwood KDC-X993 head unit w/ Alpine PDX 4.150 Amp and Focal Access 165 A1 component fronts, 690CA1 rears Other Cars that i maintain 2007 Lexus RX350 70000 miles |
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#64
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Yes. DRL works. I went out of my way to disable mine.
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#65
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so if you just did the M H1 retrofit and put everything back together, where would the DRL come from, the new HID or other bulb? please help me clear up my confusion, thanks!!
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2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 Nighthawk Black Pearl w/ HFP body kit Mini H1 HID's oem foglights 99000 miles 35% Tints Kenwood KDC-X993 head unit w/ Alpine PDX 4.150 Amp and Focal Access 165 A1 component fronts, 690CA1 rears Other Cars that i maintain 2007 Lexus RX350 70000 miles |
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#66
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The DRL function of the bulb is combined with your highbeam.
In this project, I did not touch the high beam. |
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#67
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For those of you who want to retro a bixenon low beam and keep your DRL halogen high-beam, you could always order the 9007 BiXenon wiring harness from TRS instead of the 9006 low-beam harness. Your high beam/DRL will stay connected to the factory harness and work as usual, while the 9007 BiX harness will provide you a secure relayed harness to run your HID setup including the correct BiXenon solenoid connectors.
9006 & 9007 connectors are identical, the only mod that you will need to perform is by swapping the two wires (orange & blue pins - the black (ground) stays in the middle) on the new harness where it connects to your factory low beam halogen harness.
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Ben '07 EX-L V6 Coupe w/ Navi Graphite Pearl / Black Leather TL Bi-Xenon Retro | TSX LED Mirrors | Spec-D Fog Lamps | 30% Tint | Alpine Sub System | BlitzSafe AUX | USA Spec BlueTooth OEM HFP Kit | Trunk Spoiler | CCD Back-up Cam | Tein Coilovers | Ingalls Camber Kit | H&R TRAK+ Winter: Honda 18" 10-Spokes / Continental DWS Summer: Hyundai 19" Dual 5-Spokes / Hankook V12 Evo |
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#68
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Quote:
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#69
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I only disabled DRL for the "Audi styled" LEDs
If you don't want those, your DRLs will be untouched. The bi-xenon function hooks up to your high beam. You can just use one relay for it. I'll draw a circuit diagram in a bit. |
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#70
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so clean, my headlights got too many glares
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The Olympian wanna be |
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#71
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Quote:
Quote:
Without a relay to separate the BiXenon projector's solenoid input and the DRL, your BiX solenoid will have a constant flicker (down/up/down/up...) because of the constant pulses that the DRL function sends/receives - this can lead to premature malfunctioning / wearing out of the projector's solenoid. You want to basically wire a relay that only opens when the 12V high beam is engaged, and closes when not. You can search the Accord forums as many have posted regarding this topic, or head over to HIDPlanet where this topic is overly discussed in the Wiring section. I highly advise any new retrofitter / person(s) who think they may be interested in trying a retrofit, to head over to HIDP and do some homework. There is outstanding information there that has be contributed by many of us retrofitters However you will not need a diode (the triangle connecting lo & high in diagram), as our low beam stays on when the 12V high beam is engaged. You will use the low beam harness to determine for the relay whether or not the high beam function is engaged/disengaged Quote:
Dual Lamp DRL Questions ...and many more @ ff6800: I hope this was the level of detail you were seeking...?
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Ben '07 EX-L V6 Coupe w/ Navi Graphite Pearl / Black Leather TL Bi-Xenon Retro | TSX LED Mirrors | Spec-D Fog Lamps | 30% Tint | Alpine Sub System | BlitzSafe AUX | USA Spec BlueTooth OEM HFP Kit | Trunk Spoiler | CCD Back-up Cam | Tein Coilovers | Ingalls Camber Kit | H&R TRAK+ Winter: Honda 18" 10-Spokes / Continental DWS Summer: Hyundai 19" Dual 5-Spokes / Hankook V12 Evo |
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#72
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That's what happens when you replace halogen bulbs with hid's without doing a retrofit.
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Filling a need-2006 Accord EX manual 5spd sedan |
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#73
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Quote:
Thanks in advance! |
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#74
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The TRS kit is already supplied with the necessary fuses/relays for the low beam. You could definitely benefit from the high-beam splitters, purchased from TRS, to save you on some redundant wiring, and yes - you will need to stop at a store and pick up an additional relay for the high beams
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Ben '07 EX-L V6 Coupe w/ Navi Graphite Pearl / Black Leather TL Bi-Xenon Retro | TSX LED Mirrors | Spec-D Fog Lamps | 30% Tint | Alpine Sub System | BlitzSafe AUX | USA Spec BlueTooth OEM HFP Kit | Trunk Spoiler | CCD Back-up Cam | Tein Coilovers | Ingalls Camber Kit | H&R TRAK+ Winter: Honda 18" 10-Spokes / Continental DWS Summer: Hyundai 19" Dual 5-Spokes / Hankook V12 Evo |
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#75
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Alright so i did most all of the work today, before I ran out of daylight... The low beams turned out fantastic! but unfortunately when i flip on the high beams, only the passenger side lights up. Here's what I did for the relay circuit to keep my drl's, wired off of the drivers side using a high beam splitter... could this be depriving the driver side high beam bulb of too many amps thus causing my problem?
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