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Dual Climate, No Heat on Driver's Side

115K views 55 replies 28 participants last post by  FredCowans 
#1 ·
The title says it all. I've read a few other complaints on other sites about this problem, but no solution. Is there some kind of door motor that controls how much heat is let into the cabin on the driver's side? Has anyone fixed this problem before or know how to fix it?
 
#3 ·
Um yeah. Basically no heat comes out on the driver's side at all no matter how much you play with the dual climate. Like I said I read a couple other complaints about the dual climate system. I did a little more research. For some reason the search function on this site doesn't give me the results I'm looking for. Anyway, the problem lies with a blend door motor.



http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=2DR+EX+V6&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=HEATER+UNIT

In the picture above, item 7 is the driver's air mix motor assembly, and I want to say that's the blend door motor that lets the heat in and out of the driver's side vents. Am I correct? If this is the part, how do I remove it and replace it?
 
#4 ·
Since you have a Dual Climate Control system, you really need to take the vehicle to the dealer. According to the Service Manual, the Climate Control system runs through the Multiplex Integrated Control System. Before the AC is tested, Honda will connect the vehicle to their HDS computer to determine if the fault is with the MICS before they test the AC system. Testing the Air Mix motor also requires a trip to the dealer. If you incorrectly apply power while testing the motor, you can fry the motor. There is an air mix motor for both the driver and passenger side.
 
#5 ·
Damn. I knew there were two air mix motors, one for the driver and one for the passenger. I didn't know that the problem would require a trip to the dealership. Well, I live in south Mississippi, and having the no heat on the driver's side isn't too much of a problem since we have an almost tropical climate here. I guess I'll set some money aside and see if I can get it fixed before next year.
 
#8 ·
hey, if you want heat this time on year for the driver's side, open the driver's side window.... :lmao:

biloxi, ms..... nuf said....
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
rather than bother with the dealership diagnosing the motor it may be cheaper to simply replace it. A diagram of the parts can be found here.

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/online...65507&isBigPicture=False&pageName=Heater Unit

items 7 & 8 are the air mixing valves for the driver and passenger sides respectively. Each Part runs approx 50-75.

Hope this helps
Dude, you're f'ing awesome! Way to revive an old thread and great first post! :thmsup: Now if you can answer this question... what would I have to remove to get to that part and replace it? Also, do you think any regular auto A/C and heater repair shops would have the know how to operate on these somewhat technologically advanced dual climate control systems (lol)? I'm tempted to order the part and take it to an auto A/C shop and let them look at it and fix it.
 
#12 ·
Hi Everbody here,

Anyone find a solution to this problem? I have a 2007 accord and it is blowing outside air on the driver side, even when temp is set to maximum. The passenger side works fine though (blows warm air). Similarly, when I switch on the AC, the passenger side blows cool air, but the driver side blows ambient air from the outside. I went to the dealer, but they want $99.99 just for the diagnostics. Is there anyway I can do it myself?

Thanks.
 
#13 ·
I just recently had the same problem and I took it to a Honda dealership. They didn't charge me to diagnose it but they did incorrectly replace the mixer motor the first time. Then the 2nd time they replaced the heater core which fixed it once and for all. Honda of America split the cost of the heater core replacement 50/50 with me though so overall the cost to fix was less than it would have been if they got it right the first time.
 
#14 ·
Heater core? Ugh. I doubt it's the heater core keeping my driver's side from getting heat. The passenger side heats up like an oven. Perhaps I'll take a look at it next week and see if I can apply power to the driver's blend door motor.
 
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#16 ·
I have had similar problem last year...except my driver side was blowing hot air like it's suppose to but passenger side was just blowing cold air..then problem fixed by itself before winter came... now just week ago same thing started happening again, my guess is the door on the passanger side got stuck last year and this is happening this year again...
should I just wait and see if this gets "fixed" by itself again...hmm:dunno:
 
#18 ·
I am helping a friend deal with this same problem. She has a 2003 EX 3.0litre with dual zone heating. December 2009 she had this problem start. She took it into the Honda dealership (Koons Honda Manassas VA). They charged her $1100 to replace her heater core. The "fix" lasted less than two weeks. Now we are dealing with the same thing again. I took it in for her two days ago, and they are saying the heater core needs replacement again. They are claiming the problem is that someone put stop leak in the coolant system and that is causing it to "gum up" the heater core. Now they want to replace the heater core, radiator, and engine so they can be sure to get every bit of the stop leak out and start fresh. Yesterday they did a backflush of the system and had the car blowing heat. They called back after that to tell me that after they turned the AC on and the car started blowing cold air again and then they could not make it blow hot again on the left side. To me that sounds like a door is stuck closed. I brought that up, and they are saying that the electric cooling fans kicked in as the thermostat opened and cooled the fluid off .

I questioned them "why does it heat just fine on the right hand side and it is cold on the left?" Their answer is that the heater core just isn't getting warm enough and the air cools off by the time it gets to the left side. That is cooling awful quickly in four feet.

Does anyone have any ideas how to proceed, other than not taking the car back there?
 
#19 ·
Antartica and Dgalv, I'm in the same boat as you guys are. No heat on drivers side. I have tested all the mix and mode doors and motors on my 2003 accord EX, and they are all working the way they should be. Also flushed the cooling system as well as back flushed the heater core, which incidentally returned clean water. Short of removing my entire dash and pulling out the heater sub unit to visually inspect the heater core I have exhausted all my ideas on the subject. I am very interested to know if you have found a solution to this problem. Any help is much appreciated.
 
#20 ·
I haven't done much about my heat, mainly because it doesn't get too cold down here in south Mississippi. I'm pretty sure it's the driver's air mix door on my car though. Maybe one day when I'm off work and not lazy I'll get it checked out.
 
#22 ·
No Heat on Passenger Side

Hi Guys,
Just 2 weeks ago I cranked my heater up to 80 and then Hi. The only hot air I got was on the driver side. Only cold air on the passenger side.

I have a '07 Accord V6 EX-L 6MT with dual climate control and Navi.

Seems we're all in the same boat. Has anyone found a solution to this issue. I asked my local mechanic shop and he said it has to do with some door in or around the vent.

Is this an electronic issue or a mechanical one? Has anyone found a solution?

Thanks in advance!
 
#24 ·
After a $1700 quote to replace the heater core, I wrote to American Honda (Torrance, CA) asking if they could help. I got a letter with a phone number that I called. The lady at the other end said, well it might not be the heater core after all, and my local dealer is suggesting a coolant flush initially to check if that would fix the problem, and if it did not, American Honda will credit the money back to me. I took my car to the dealer. The coolant flush did not fix the problem, although there was a slight improvement in the temperature. My local dealer said my coolant had a mix of foreign material in it, and that it was frozen and so the heater core was clogged. In spite of repeated flush, they still could not remove the clog entirely. Essentially, what they said was I or someone else put in the wrong fluid and that was the reason for the clog.

I called American Honda and left a message saying the problem was not fixed and if they would repay the $250 that I spent on the flush. I get a call from my local dealer saying, since my coolant had a mix of foreign material in it, Honda will not cover the cost. However, since there was a slight improvement in the temperature now, the dealer said he was willing to redo the flush (at no extra charge) to see if that would fix the problem, or at least improve it. He asked me to come after a couple of weeks to give the clog sometime to ease itself.

Now how in the world some foreign material got in there - I will never know. I am hoping my car will warm up in two weeks. Will update.
 
#26 ·
I have no idea how to do it. Since I am getting it done free, I will let them do it. If it does not fix the problem, but if there is further improvement, then I might try flushing it again my self. Just need the knowhow. If you are going to do it, and if you can point me in the right direction, I will be grateful. Thanks.
 
#27 ·
I suggest we all meet up somewhere with all our cars and all at once and call American Honda and complain about our dual climate heater problems and demand free repair, and then after that we should go to the nearest dealership and get that free repair done. You know, start a protest. Just dreamin big here haha.
 
#28 ·
Today I took my 2007 EXL for the free coolant flush the dealer promised me. Instead of 2 weeks that he suggested, I went after 4 weeks of the initial ($250) coolant flush. There was absolutely no improvement. There was at least a slight improvement the first time, which only lasted a few days. This time, there was no improvement at all. Here are the temperature readings (off of a Raytek MT6):

-------------------DL----------DR------PL----------PR
Before 2nd flush:---50----------60-----100---------130
After 2nd flush:----46----------53------95---------117

The lower temperatures after the 2nd flush is probably due to lower ambient temperature (outside the vehicle = 29; I do not remember the ambient temperature 4 weeks ago).

The slight improvement after the 1st flush was encouraging - the heater core clog had actually cleared out, albeit only marginally. I was hopeful that the next flush would improve it further, if not fully. Alas, there was no change. I am wondering if my car was even touched. When I was called for a status update, I was told the flush did not work and if they can go ahead and place an order for the heater core. They appeared to be too keen on relieving me of my dough.

Or, I could be entirely wrong - they probably did do a thorough flush after all. Only there is no way to tell.

I really want to go ahead and do the coolant flush myself. I saw some youtube videos, appears very simple. For a clogged heater core, everyone suggests a reverse flush. I looked under the hood, but was not sure about the tubes running into the firewall. If any one can help me identify the right tubes in a 2007 accord, I would be grateful.

Thanks to you all - at least there is someone to lament to :boohoo:
 
#29 ·
i know this response is way late, but this is what we did in the 'olden days':
1. make sure the system is cold
2. drain the coolant out
3. remove the thermostat
4. remove the hoses from the heater core
5. connect the garden hose to to the heater core and a long heater hose to the other heater core connections and flush it w/the hose water
pay attention to what comes out
- if a lot of junk looking like sludge or corrosion or whatever comes out, then you have problems w/your heater core
- if it looks good, you may not have probs w/your heater core
- those were the days when heater cores were brass
- with the new alum/plastic heater cores, i'm not sure
6. connect the heater core hoses together w/a pipe
7. fill your system w/clean water and long-term flush that's certified to use w/alum heads and new style heater cores, radiators, coolant sensors, valves, etc.
8. after a few days of driving around (= many hours of hot/cold), drain the coolant system and observe what comes out
- if it's nasty or junk comes out or it's dark or smells and looks worse than mildly cloudy, then you probably got a clogged heater core
- if so, you may need a radiator, since when you do a long-term flush you can loosen up junk that's keeping your system from leaking
9. flush out all you can w/the garden hose until it comes out very clean
10. if you feel it's real bad, then do the flush again
11. now you probably cleaned out your radiator and engine good enough, and you have 3 options at this point:
a. change your heater core and radiator and refill your system per mfgr specs,
b. change only your heater core and refill your system to spec,
c. put everything back together and refull your system to spec.
12. you do:
"a." if you had a lot of bad junk come out after the flush,
"b." if you had some bad junk come out and want to guarantee your heater core is clean and full-flowing,
"c." if you had no bad junk come out, or did, and want to take your chances on your heater core leaking i/s your blower housing (b/c that's usually what happens when you do the long-term flushes).
BEWARE:
1. doing a long-term flush can cause leaking in a bad heater core and radiator, and
2. doing a short-term flush can loosen up enough junk in the system (= engine scale, rubber seal junk, flaking glue, plastic fiber scale, alum corrosion, etc) to CLOG UP your heater core and possibly your radiator.
That's how i'd deal with this problem IF I suspected it.
First thing though, I'd consult my HELM manual to see what they recommend.
If they recommend something else that I am unable to do, then I do it if i can afford it. Otherwise, I do what we did in the 'olden days' before all this complicated and convoluted computer controlled junk cars came into existance (you know, the auto cartel protection racket sponsered by DC).
Cheers ... Chris
 
#33 ·
I have had the problem come and go so many times over. What has actually worked best for me (but was still temporary) was a flush with a radiator cleaner then putting the stock coolant back in. I'm probably going to do it again soon, flushing the heater core with a hose in between steps:

  • Drain coolant
  • Disconnect and flush heater core with garden hose then reconnect it
  • Radiator cleaner + distilled water for whatever the bottle recommends then drain it back out
  • Disconnect and flush heater core with garden hose then reconnect it
  • Add back the stock coolant

Just the drain, radiator cleaner, drain, readd coolant got me through most of last winter.
 
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