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Replacing the factory subwoofer and speakers (8th Gen)

104K views 51 replies 27 participants last post by  Fiberopticblue 
#1 ·
I have an 09 accord coupe with navi, I like the clean setup that the stock subwoofer has, and I didnt want to loose the trunk space to a sub, so I wanted to replace mine.
I couldn't find any info on the factory sub, and very little info on the speakers, so I just ordered some. I got a Pioneer TS-SW841D free air sub, some Polk audio momo 2 way speakers, and a lot of Dynamat. When I got it I took apart the trunk liner and removed the factory sub only to find out that the pioneer sub does not fit. The pioneer sub is too thick and the factory mount has very sloped sides so it does not fit in beyond a half inch. (I later hooked it up was reassured that it was okay that it didn't fit because it sounded terrible (maybe not enough power, i don't know)). The speakers however, fit great and sound amazing, and the dynamat blocks a lot of road noise and makes the speakers bass sound much more pronounced. I was still distraught on what to do about the sub because the stock one sounds pretty tinny.

I decided to forget the free air sub and order a sub that I thought would sound good. I found it in the JL audio W8. To install it I had to make the factory sub opening a little bigger (less than .5"), which I did with a dremel, and then the JL sub just dropped in. I could immediately notice the difference- it sounds fantastic. like the trunk is its box and it hits hard and crisp- even with just the stock amp.
If you are looking to replace the sub, go with a regular sub, not a free air sub. Be ready to spend several hours on it, but when you are done, the payoff is great and it really improves the sound of your system for a low price.
 

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#2 ·
Wow, how long did that take to install? nice work!
this will get moved to audio section though :)
 
#3 ·
Asher,

Can you post pics with everything back together please?

Thanks!
 
#14 ·
I want to take off the rear shelf myself too but don't know where to start:dunno:

Does the rear shelf panel hit the sub and speakers? looks like it sticks out alot...
 
#7 ·
Looks pretty clean. Good job man.
 
#8 ·
wow... real nice...truly admire the work... i'm gonna have to change my speaker eventually for sure... i need some extra slap for sure as the sounds is pretty weak

don't think i'm gonna do the trunk setup anymore.... again great job.. you laid the foundation and will make the job for me a lot easier
 
#9 ·
Were you using external amp?
 
#10 ·
The JL 8W7 is a great speaker, and I considered it. The reason I decided against it was because the 8W7 is about 8" deep and I was going for a better sound but wanted it as discreet as possible. So, the 8W3v3-4 is a little less than 5" deep and isn't really noticeable in the trunk.
Also, the 8W7 has a much higher RMS rating and I was worried that it would not be getting enough power unless I used a separate amp for it. I am sure the 8W7 would sound great though.
I will post more pics from inside the trunk tomorrow.
 
#13 ·
well i was going to try a setup like this but my 12" rockford p3 and box and amp(mounted the amp on the side - btw its a bazooka 500w) fits perfectly in the slot like trunk, like where u push all the way to the back of the backseat and its a perfect fit. I enjoy the way it looks but this might sounds better, and that is alot of dynomat. lol.
 
#16 ·
well the w3's traditionally take a max of about 350 to 400 watts max which is reasonable for the stock system remember that the oem amp is only putting out about 150 MAX power so although the amp will push it, its still wayyy wayyy underpowered... putting the w-7 would be like cutting your law with a nail clipper vs. a weed whacker... Being that I have had and sold JL in the past as an official dealer.. I think the w3 is still overkill... Id be quicker to recommend the w1 series a little less money and closer to matching the power remember this one aspect when you turn up the system( like 75 percent, anything higher is "trying to push the amp harder" it may get louder but the efficiency of the power degrades... degrading quality in power will blow your speakers faster than over-powering them...dirty power over heats the coils and causes the voice coil to burn up hence why youll see guys put 1000 watts to a 750 watt speaker and play them alllllll day long without blowing... distortion is a dirty thing....
and BTW Manville at JL does NOT recommend to run these subs Infinite Baffle they are not efficient as free air subs
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
door dings little rock hits stuff like that.... you know, lol those little annoying dents that drive you friggen nuts!!!... lol
 
#21 ·
oh ok. i thought you were talking about the rear deck! I see what you were saying now.
 
#22 ·
JamieJam1AIM- I have a roller and razor and all, but still wash up when I'm done and find those cuts everywhere. Now the teaspoon...!!! This is new to me but sounds perfect for getting those creases down. I'm so picky. When I'm done w/my car I want the deadening to look textbook perfect so this will deffinately give me an edge.

Were you not recommending second skin to me on another thread? I'm thinking of wiring and deadening the car in the next couple of weeks and someone brought them up. I have been looking into them as they are cheaper and seems like an identicle product but thicker. Let me know any thoughts. PM me so as to not hijack this thread if you want. Thanks
 
#23 ·
not familliar with 2nd skin.... couldn't tell you....... again Id say accumat or dynamat but D mat will be a little more expensive due to the name brand....
 
#24 ·
I want to do something like this. I want as much bass/sound as possible while still using the factory locations. I do not mind have the hole bored out to accommodate a larger woofer. I also wouldn't mine running a 1000-1500 watt D class amp to it.

I have always been a fan of Memphis...http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/

Wonder what a nice setup would cost me without going overboard
 
#25 ·
Here are a few pics from inside the trunk and of it mostly back together. In the next day or two, I will post a thread on how to remove the trunk liner. The sub is admittedly too nice for this application and i am sure it is highly underpowered, but it sounds pretty good to me. This way, when I install amps it will sound even better.
 

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#26 ·
Can you also throw some pics from the inside of the rear shelf with the new speakers?

Thanks
 
#28 ·
All put back together is what I meant.
 
#29 ·
It's going to look exactly the same as it did before he changed the speakers.
 
#30 ·
Asher:

Great job and post. Question: You mentioned that you changed out the speakers too. Which speakers did you change and what did you change them to (model #..please)? Did you also change out the tweeters and did they all just drop-in or did you have to hog out some metal?

I assume the power is still all OEM.

Thx
FH
 
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