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  #1  
Old 06-18-2013, 06:44 PM
danimalstwiztid danimalstwiztid is offline
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92 Accord EX

I just bought a 92 accord and it was missing a few things like the air intake tube. Is the Mass Air Flow Senser In the intake tube or does it not have one? lso it was missing the left front corner signal, What years will fit on the car? Any help or info would be great. Also it has a manual transmission, but what's the model number of the trans? and what other manual trans will fit?
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:37 PM
H311RA151N H311RA151N is offline
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For your corner light one from a 92 or 93. 90/91s have a slightly different body style than 92/93s. And therefore a few slightly different parts.

90-93 Accords do not have a MAF sensor. They do however have a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure). Why do you ask?

As for your transmission code, its located on the front of the transmission on a tag to the left of the engine code location.

Here is mine.



On Accords as old as ours, the only real way to tell which one you have is by locating the tag (which is easily visible from the front of the engine bay) because the transmission could have been changed at one point. However our transmissions are nearly bullet proof and a failure is rare.

Below is a list what transmissions came out in which trim levels in 90-93 Accords.

H2A5 - manual (2/4 door DX/LX)
H2U4 - manual (5 door)
H2U5 - munual (2/4 door EX/SE)
MPXA - auto (any chassis/model).

Any more questions you have or may have Id be glad to answer.
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:37 AM
danimalstwiztid danimalstwiztid is offline
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Originally Posted by H311RA151N View Post
For your corner light one from a 92 or 93. 90/91s have a slightly different body style than 92/93s. And therefore a few slightly different parts.

90-93 Accords do not have a MAF sensor. They do however have a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure). Why do you ask?

As for your transmission code, its located on the front of the transmission on a tag to the left of the engine code location.

Here is mine.



On Accords as old as ours, the only real way to tell which one you have is by locating the tag (which is easily visible from the front of the engine bay) because the transmission could have been changed at one point. However our transmissions are nearly bullet proof and a failure is rare.

Below is a list what transmissions came out in which trim levels in 90-93 Accords.

H2A5 - manual (2/4 door DX/LX)
H2U4 - manual (5 door)
H2U5 - munual (2/4 door EX/SE)
MPXA - auto (any chassis/model).

Any more questions you have or may have Id be glad to answer.
I was asking becuase I bought a 92 accord in an auction and it was missing the intake duct work. I wanted to make sure if it needed one i got the right part. I have an EX. So do other transmissions crossover like out of a prelude or such?
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:18 PM
H311RA151N H311RA151N is offline
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Any intake duct work from a 90-93 Accord will be the same.

And yes any transmission from any year Prelude will work except a 97-01 Prelude SH with ATTS. The Base model 97-01 Prelude will.

However most Prelude transmissions have very different gearing, shorter gears, and some shorter than others. They are designed to keep the engine in VTEC from gear to gear when its taken to redline in each gear.

90-97 Accord transmissions work, 92-96 Prelude transmissions work, and 97-01 Base model transmissions work.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:09 PM
danimalstwiztid danimalstwiztid is offline
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Originally Posted by H311RA151N View Post
Any intake duct work from a 90-93 Accord will be the same.

And yes any transmission from any year Prelude will work except a 97-01 Prelude SH with ATTS. The Base model 97-01 Prelude will.

However most Prelude transmissions have very different gearing, shorter gears, and some shorter than others. They are designed to keep the engine in VTEC from gear to gear when its taken to redline in each gear.

90-97 Accord transmissions work, 92-96 Prelude transmissions work, and 97-01 Base model transmissions work.

Well what i essentially wanted to do was make the car a little more racey. I'm new to honda's but know they can become sporty cars with little change, and most honda's interchange very well.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:34 PM
H311RA151N H311RA151N is offline
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Originally Posted by danimalstwiztid View Post
Well what i essentially wanted to do was make the car a little more racey. I'm new to honda's but know they can become sporty cars with little change, and most honda's interchange very well.
As far as the transmission goes there is a gain to be had by swapping to a Prelude transmission. The gears are shorter which result in better acceleration. However fuel mileage will suffer. An option people use to get around this negative effect is to take the 5th gear from the Accord transmission and install it into the Prelude transmission. So you get the acceleration 1st through 4th and a higher 5th gear for better fuel economy.

What I have for performance modifications is the following: Maxspeed intake with K&N cone filter, 92-96 Prelude 2.3l upper intake manifold plenum and throttlebody, 92-93 Accord EX/SE ECU,camshaft, and intake manifold runners. Megan racing header wraped in DEI Titanium header wrap, Megan racing test pipe, and a 2.5" catback exhaust with a large burnt tip muffler.

I have the F22A1 engine that had 120hp factory. With the modifications I have added I have 145-150hp and a lot of low end torque (for a Honda).

The most power for the money is a Prelude engine swap. This swap is a straight forward swap. The engine code is H22A and most variants have around 200hp.

If all your looking for is added pep a short ram intake, cone filter, header and catback exhaust is perfect. There are other small parts you can get from salvage yards like I have to make slightly more power as well.

Its all in how far you want to go really.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:17 PM
danimalstwiztid danimalstwiztid is offline
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As far as the transmission goes there is a gain to be had by swapping to a Prelude transmission. The gears are shorter which result in better acceleration. However fuel mileage will suffer. An option people use to get around this negative effect is to take the 5th gear from the Accord transmission and install it into the Prelude transmission. So you get the acceleration 1st through 4th and a higher 5th gear for better fuel economy.

What I have for performance modifications is the following: Maxspeed intake with K&N cone filter, 92-96 Prelude 2.3l upper intake manifold plenum and throttlebody, 92-93 Accord EX/SE ECU,camshaft, and intake manifold runners. Megan racing header wraped in DEI Titanium header wrap, Megan racing test pipe, and a 2.5" catback exhaust with a large burnt tip muffler.

I have the F22A1 engine that had 120hp factory. With the modifications I have added I have 145-150hp and a lot of low end torque (for a Honda).

The most power for the money is a Prelude engine swap. This swap is a straight forward swap. The engine code is H22A and most variants have around 200hp.

If all your looking for is added pep a short ram intake, cone filter, header and catback exhaust is perfect. There are other small parts you can get from salvage yards like I have to make slightly more power as well.

Its all in how far you want to go really.
So what else needs to be changed if i put the H22A in? would the Accord tranny work with it?
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:39 PM
H311RA151N H311RA151N is offline
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The Accord transmission will work however it wouldn't be optimal.

One has to ask them self if they have the ability financially, the skills, and the tools. I've seen the swap done easily by people who have very little skills and I have seen people in Canada do it in the dead of winter in their drive way.

If your looking at the H22A swap there are few things that need to be covered.

There are a lot of engine distributors out there who have sent people bad engines. The best and most trusted company to buy an engine from is hmotorsonline. They sell the engine, transmission and ECU for around $2200 shipped.

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30016

Before you install the engine it is a must to change the timing belt and related components. And the H22s timing belt auto tensioner must be replaced with a manual tensioner because the auto ones will fail and ruin your engine.

This will run about $140 for a really good Mitsuboshi/GMB kit. It even includes the valve cover gasket set and all crankshaft and balance shaft seals.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-01-Honda-...9bfa82&vxp=mtr

Then you need the manual tensioner. This is the cheapest one I've found and from a great company. $100

http://www.kstuned.com/collections/k...ming-tensioner

A good clutch kit. I love Exedy and I've been using them for years. $130

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH...135083&vxp=mtr

And a general tune up is a great idea at this point too. Heres a kit for $90

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Prelud...b406b7&vxp=mtr


Then your ready to drop the engine in.

You can read up on the step by step procedure in the link below and many more places on the internet while searching for "H22 swap CB7" "H22 swap Accord" and so on. Its been done thousands of times. I advise reading as much as you can if this interests you. I haven't covered everything here just parts. But you are not in for any big surprises or anything.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=126672

You can also have a mechanic do it.

After its all said and done It can be done for well under $3000 and it will make a huge difference in power. You go from mid to low 16's in the quarter mile to high 14's. 2 Seconds is a massive difference in the quarter mile. If you chose to have a mechanic do it I imagine it can be done for under or around $4000.

Some people are not that serious however there are still many options for them as well that will satisfy ones need for more power.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:31 PM
danimalstwiztid danimalstwiztid is offline
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The Accord transmission will work however it wouldn't be optimal.

One has to ask them self if they have the ability financially, the skills, and the tools. I've seen the swap done easily by people who have very little skills and I have seen people in Canada do it in the dead of winter in their drive way.

If your looking at the H22A swap there are few things that need to be covered.

There are a lot of engine distributors out there who have sent people bad engines. The best and most trusted company to buy an engine from is hmotorsonline. They sell the engine, transmission and ECU for around $2200 shipped.

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30016

Before you install the engine it is a must to change the timing belt and related components. And the H22s timing belt auto tensioner must be replaced with a manual tensioner because the auto ones will fail and ruin your engine.

This will run about $140 for a really good Mitsuboshi/GMB kit. It even includes the valve cover gasket set and all crankshaft and balance shaft seals.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-01-Honda-...9bfa82&vxp=mtr

Then you need the manual tensioner. This is the cheapest one I've found and from a great company. $100

http://www.kstuned.com/collections/k...ming-tensioner

A good clutch kit. I love Exedy and I've been using them for years. $130

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH...135083&vxp=mtr

And a general tune up is a great idea at this point too. Heres a kit for $90

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Prelud...b406b7&vxp=mtr


Then your ready to drop the engine in.

You can read up on the step by step procedure in the link below and many more places on the internet while searching for "H22 swap CB7" "H22 swap Accord" and so on. Its been done thousands of times. I advise reading as much as you can if this interests you. I haven't covered everything here just parts. But you are not in for any big surprises or anything.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=126672

You can also have a mechanic do it.

After its all said and done It can be done for well under $3000 and it will make a huge difference in power. You go from mid to low 16's in the quarter mile to high 14's. 2 Seconds is a massive difference in the quarter mile. If you chose to have a mechanic do it I imagine it can be done for under or around $4000.

Some people are not that serious however there are still many options for them as well that will satisfy ones need for more power.

Well i went to NADC, it's an auto diesel college in nashville, TN, I have the knowledge on how to do it, but most of the stuff i've worked on is 1st and 2nd gen mx6's. Honda's are all new to me. Some i'm trying to collect info since i know this stuff has all been done before. But i'm Looking for a long term project, i can collect the stuff over the next year. We have a Pull A Part here in Knoxville. How easy are the timing belts to change in the car? or is it quicker and easier to pull the engine?
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  #10  
Old 06-21-2013, 11:01 PM
H311RA151N H311RA151N is offline
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Well i went to NADC, it's an auto diesel college in nashville, TN, I have the knowledge on how to do it, but most of the stuff i've worked on is 1st and 2nd gen mx6's. Honda's are all new to me. Some i'm trying to collect info since i know this stuff has all been done before. But i'm Looking for a long term project, i can collect the stuff over the next year. We have a Pull A Part here in Knoxville. How easy are the timing belts to change in the car? or is it quicker and easier to pull the engine?
Timing belts are relatively easy. Its about a 4.5 hour job for me if everything goes right. To pull the engine to replace the timing belt is way overkill. Its not nearly as bad as people let on. The crank bolt is the hardest thing to get off. Everything else is just nuts and bolts. With you wanting a long term project this is perfect for you IMO.

If you get an H22 out of a salvage yard (I say if because they go fast) it must be rebuilt, It would be a complete waste of time to even attempt to put it in without rebuilding it first. Also a 97-01 Prelude engine (which seems to be the most commonly found H22 in salvage yards) has the engine code H22A4 and is more of a pain to use because its OBD2 and would require being switched to OBD1. That means you would have to find 92-96 Prelude H22 fuel injectors and distributor and use those.

Rebuilding an H22 or any Honda engine is about as hard as it gets in the Honda world. I would advise you to look at having a shop do it or just get a manual and do it yourself over time. And a complete rebuild would be necessary. You can buy good kits for $350 like this one here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-96-2-2L-H...d2907f&vxp=mtr

Of course you will want to disassemble the engine down to the bare block and send it to a machine shop to have it bored and honed to match the pistons in the kit you buy. In the case above thats .5mm.

You will also want to find an H22 transmission to make your time worth it. Its not a bad idea to go through it and rebuild it while your at it. You don't always know why the car is in the salvage yard. But you can bet it doesn't run anymore or the transmission is shot unless the car is totaled.

http://shop.synchrotech-transmission...SK-SYN109B.htm

Above is a great kit. Along with a good clutch like Exedy your set to go.

A salvage engine normally will cost $250-$300 and the transmission will cost $150-$250. So the positive side to the salvage yard approach is that you can do it all yourself for $1000-$1500 easily and have a brand new engine in the end. Plus you can say that you hand built it. And you get to drive the car up until the point where you have the H swap done and ready to go in.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:56 AM
danimalstwiztid danimalstwiztid is offline
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Well Do here we have a pull a part, you can pick up an engine for about $150 for any 4cyl and trans for about $60 and manual.

The reason i said about the timing belt is because iv'e done easy and hard. I just did a timing belt on a 2.4 dodge, i wanted to shoot myself. but i could change my MX6 2.2 and Toyota 3.0 in about 30 mins.

What's the best engine to boost?
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:46 PM
danimalstwiztid danimalstwiztid is offline
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also Have you ever deleted the ABS off a car like ours? I'm considering it but dont know what i need to get.
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:46 PM
H311RA151N H311RA151N is offline
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Originally Posted by danimalstwiztid View Post
Well Do here we have a pull a part, you can pick up an engine for about $150 for any 4cyl and trans for about $60 and manual.

The reason i said about the timing belt is because iv'e done easy and hard. I just did a timing belt on a 2.4 dodge, i wanted to shoot myself. but i could change my MX6 2.2 and Toyota 3.0 in about 30 mins.

What's the best engine to boost?
Its extremely easy to do with the engine out of the car like you will be doing.

The absolute hardest part your going to have is finding a rebuildable engine and transmission in the salvage yard.

The F engine you have now is the best for turbo unless you want to spend $10,000-$15,000 to build a reliable turbo H22.

The H22 has high compression which is a down fall when your turboing on a stock Honda bottom end. The F22 you currently have is the opposite.

Compression ratios of the H22: 10.0-10.6:1.

Compression ratio of the F22: 8.8:1.

The F22 is safer to turbo due to its lower compression ratio and has some other very awesome features that you personally should find very appealing.

You evidently like the idea of going to a salvage yard to get parts which is perfect for turboing the F22A.

Look for the following vehicles:

90-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T or GSX. Must be 5 speed.
90-99 Eagle Talon Tsi. Must be 5 speed.
90-94 Plymouth Laser, RS Turbo. Must be 5 speed.

The above vehicles come factory turbo charged and almost every part you need to turbo your F22 can be found on these cars.

From the listed vehicles you will need the following parts:

Turbo. Its best to buy a Big 16G turbo from an Evo. $200-$300 easily.
Turbo manifold. Best to be from a 95-99. 90-94s are prone to cracking
O2 housing
Blow off valve
Intercooler piping
Fuel Injectors. Blue tops are 450cc. Must be from a 90-94. Must be blue.


The turbo if you decide to use the 14B will most likely need to be rebuilt. You can send it off and have it rebuilt and its not that expensive. You can buy a kit and do it yourself for about $65. There are videos on youtube to show you how to do this. A new 16G turbo which I highly recommend wont need a rebuild of course.

The turbo manifold will bolt up to the F22A head with a couple holes being slightly redrilled. This manifold will not work on the H22 or F22B. The F22A's ports are 0-0-0-0 thats called an even port. The H22 and F22B is 0-00-0 called an odd port. The F22A flows very well due to this design. You will use an F22A manifold gasket.

You can find info on redrilling the manifold and other info here, its a very easy procedure.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=168376

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=172771

The fuel injectors re a direct fit.

You will need a universal front mount intercooler kit. Like the one below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-28...98027c&vxp=mtr

A custom down pipe will need to be fabricated. An exhaust shop should be able to help you with this. A 2.5" exhaust system is necessary.

Find you a muffler you like in 2.5".

Get a catalytic converter in 2.5" like the one below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-Magnaflo...b79c37&vxp=mtr

Have the exhaust shop make and install a 2.5" exhaust system with the parts or similar parts as listed above.

A Walbro 255 fuel pump kit will be needed. $100

An AEM fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail will be needed. $250

A 1/8" NPT fuel pressure gauge will need to be mounted to the fuel pressure regulator to show the fuel pressure as its needed to be adjusted. $25

The turbo has an internal wastegate. The wastegate regulates the boost. I would stick with the 6-7 Psi that its set at for reliablity. So a boost controller isn't needed.

You will need to make two AN oil feed lines for the turbo. You can have these made for you at any performance shop. They will know what sizes and everything you need just by looking at it. Or you can get universal oil feed lines for a 16G turbo. You will have to tap into the oil pan and valve cover to do this. It may not be as hard as it seems.

The DSM turbos like this are coolant cooled. It is a must to install coolant and feed lines. You can do this several ways. There are adapters on ebay that splice into the radiator hoses. You will need two of these for the turbo to draw coolant and push it out if you choose to go this route.

The advantage to the F22 is that it can except forged pistons with out having the block resleeved. This procedure costs $1250-$2000. And with the H22 its a must. With the F22A it isn't. So you save a lot of money here using the F22A.

People have just thrown the Eclipse turbo setups on the F22As without rebuilding or forged pistons. However you never know when its going to break a ring land and start smoking and losing power like crazy. At that point its "blown up".

I advise rebuilding the F22A using Bisimoto 87.5mm forged 9.2:1 compression pistons. $460

ARP main studs. $100

ARP head studs. $130

ARP Rod bolts.

Golden Eagle 87.5mm head gasket. $115

Have the block bored and honed to accept the 87.5mm pistons. $125+/-

ACL main and rod bearings with thrust washers.

Complete engine gasket kit $100

Aisin Mechanics complete timing belt kit. $225

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AISIN-Water-...93bd2f&vxp=mtr

Once you have the engine in and running. Dont run it much more than a few minitues. All you want to do is make sure it runs until you can get the car to a tuner.

You will need a boost gauge and a wideband A/F ratio gauge so that the car can be monitored throughout its life and while in tuning. $300+/-

They do not make an A pillar pod for the 90-93 Accord however they have universal ones. In my opinion they look like sh!t. The pillar pod for a 94-01 Integra fits very well and looks awesome with a little reforming with a heat gun. You can go this route or others but those two gauges at least are a must.

You will need to contact a tuner in your area to tune an ECU. You will need to provide a tuneable ECU and the tuner you choose will ask you questions about what you have done to the car and based on your answers he will recommend an ECU. A P06 ECU from a Civic is likely his response. Since every tuner is different I cant really advise you any further on tuning. He will tell you exactly what will need to be done all you have to do is ask him.

The F22A turboed stock with the factory 16G turbo settings will produce 180-210whp. About the same as the H22 swap. However with the build I listed above its very possible to see numbers as high as 250whp to 275whp reliably with the boost turned up to 10-12lbs. An old Accord with those numbers will flat scream.

This is a long read I know but a lot of the info needed is here. Any questions on anything further I would be glad to answer. Anything I may need to explain better Id be glad to clarify as well.

There are other options for turbo, however Ebay turbo kits are very risky and are extremely prone to failure. If your looking more for a "kit" I can guide you in that direction as well.
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:52 PM
H311RA151N H311RA151N is offline
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also Have you ever deleted the ABS off a car like ours? I'm considering it but dont know what i need to get.
Deleting the ABS is a b!tch I hear. Whats needed is a non- abs proportioning valve, 2 non-abs front brake lines and a flare tool. I haven't done it as I have never owned a 92-93 EX/SE. or helped anyone do it. With that being said I wish I had ABS.

Any particular reason for deleting it? Just curious.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:38 PM
danimalstwiztid danimalstwiztid is offline
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What about battery relocation? I just got the car in the garage, I need to get other things buttoned up first. The car has a matrix header and some kind of resinator. So i'm sure it has full exhaust, It also has white gauges, which looks pretty sick.
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