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#1
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Retaining Screws on Front and Rear Rotors.. What a pain!!!
So I just finished my brake job and I just absolutely hate the screws that Honda uses to screw in the rotor..
I've done tons of brake jobs on previously owned Honda's and non Hondas and still ask myself why the hell they use these damn screws... no one else does (at least no other brand I've changed rotors on. My last Honda I damn near had to cut them off. Instead I used one of those little hand held impact wrenches and that did the trick.. Hell I even left them off on my last Honda My little impact wrench DID NOT DO THE TRICK THIS TIME!! Yes, I am frustrated.. I mean a simple relaxing job like changing front and rear pads & rotors has to turn into such a b*tch all because of these damn screws... I'm giving up for the day, I doused the f*ckers with wd-40 and used my impact wrench with NO LUCK!!! I did get all my pads changed. I'm thinking I may just ask one of the guys in our prototype garage at work if he can help me out and I'll do the work if he can just get the damn screw out... I feel, like crap.. I hate setting out to do something and not being able to accomplish my goal.. DAMN SCREWS!!!
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2003 Accord EX I4- Satin Silver Metalic - Sold on 3/14/2011 after 202,000 great miles! 2011 Volvo V50 R-Design - Silver Metallic - Purchased 3/12/2011 |
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#2
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Just drill them out.
I always put anti-seize compound on the threads of these screws, and generally that will keep these screws from seizing.
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2005 Satin Silver V6 Coupe 6 speed, Venture Shield clear protetive film, TL shift knob, Hidden Hitch, GM Friction Modified Synchromesh transmission fluid 2007 Acura TL-S front/rear sway bars, Clutch slave cylinder restrictor valve delete. Acura TL 5-spoke rims 235/45-17 Bridgestone Pole Position RE960 Honda steel rims 225/55-16 Michelin Alpin PA2 __________________ DA Moderator Team DriveAccord.Net Forum Rules & Regs DriveAccord.net Classified Rules |
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#3
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That's what I did when I replaced the rotors a couple of months ago. They would not break lose no matter what I tried. I also left them out of the new rotors.
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2004 Accord LX 5MT Graphite Pearl Metallic V6-6MT Strut tower bar|17mm Acura TL rear sway bar|Rear Spoiler|2003 Acura CL-S Wheels|Foglights and HIR headlights|Rear Speakers - Boston Acoustics S95|Front Speakers - Polk DB6501|Tinted Rear| |
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#4
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Try a ratchet with a socket that will hold a Phillips bit. That's what I've done in the past.
But yea, like suggested, just drill them out. You really dont even need them.
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08 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner Double-Cab - Speedway Blue - 30,000 miles 08 TL-S 6MT - Nighthawk Black Pearl - 20,000 miles 06 Accord VP 5AT - "Alabastard" Silver Metallic - 25,000 miles - SOLD 04 TSX 6MT - Carbon Grey Metallic - SOLD |
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#5
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I did not put the retaining screws back on when the rotors were replaced. They aren't really necessary at all. It's not like the rotor won't rust onto the hub a little bit anyway.
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I suffer from a condition characterized by extremely long posts, sorry... Current: 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX 4-Door (Spark Silver Metallic) WRX's Cardomain Page Previous: 2006 Accord Coupe EX V6 6MT w/ Nav (Graphite Pearl) Accord's Cardomain Page |
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#6
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Try using a small chisel. Just hit it in a counter clockwise direction near the edge of the srew head and it should do the trick. I would certainly leave them off. There is really no need for them.
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2006 Alabaster Silver Sedan, EX-L I4 5-speed, OEM Spoiler, OEM Fog Lights, Neuspeed Short Shifter, 30% Llumar Tint, Progress 22mm RSB, TL-S FSB, DC Sports STB, Hawk HPS Brake Pads, Power Slot Cryo Rotors, Tokico Shocks, H&R OE Springs |
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#7
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In the "good ole days" we used to run a lead from the battery onto the problem screw, thus causing them to get very hot! it normally worked ok.
But -- not sure you can do that now cars have dozens of computer sensors in them? ![]() .
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Honda Accord. 2.0iES 4dr automatic. 1996 'N' reg. 87.000. (Burgandy) ave mpg 21. (Best 32) SOLD. (modified) Citroen ZX 1.9 Diesel Auto 1994 "L" reg. 100K miles, (Dark Blue), ave mpg 44. (Best 55) ECU free. 2002 Wedgewood blue. Rover 75 2.0 CDTi Conniossaur Auto ave mpg 40 (best 52) mpg. :) |
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#8
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Jason,
Sorry it was such grief. Is your car driveable? In short, you got the pads on but gave up on the rotors, is that correct? I hope your boy wasn't with you to learn new words from Papa. |
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#9
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^+1 This is what my mechanic did with a phillips screw driver, he first banged it in with a hammer and then counter clockwise. Worked like a charm
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2003 Honda Coupe AV6 OEM Navi conversion TSX side mirrors Avelectronic Tuner and rear camera Parrot 3200 LS |
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#10
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WOW, Thanks for all for the suggestions!
RTF, luckily my rotors are tip top - I was doing it to upgrade. I inspect my pads often with all the miles that I drive so me changing the pads was more preventative maintenance and not "Oh crap I need a brake job". The boy was with his mom, he's helping with the oil tomorrow!
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2003 Accord EX I4- Satin Silver Metalic - Sold on 3/14/2011 after 202,000 great miles! 2011 Volvo V50 R-Design - Silver Metallic - Purchased 3/12/2011 |
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#11
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I had to drill mine out. Wish I would have done that first instead of dicking around with other options. Impact wrench didnt loosen anything for me after coating them in wd40 or parts blaster. Even some of my caliper bolts with anti-seize had a hard time coming loose.
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2013 Accord Ex 4cyl 6spd MT Coupe Old- 2005 Accord EX-L 4cyl 5-Spd - MP3 player adapter - 17mm TL Rear Sway Bar - V6 6spd Tower Strut Bar - Infinity Kappa 6x9s - Polk DB6500 front components door and tweets - Infinity BassLink II w/4sc - Neuspeed Short Shifter - Blue Gauges and Ambient Light |
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#12
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Saabs have these as well. I swear they pick the metal for the screws that will have the MOST interaction with the rotor material and weld themselves to it. In these cases the hand impact-driver works well, but I have had to drill them out as well. Fun, Fun, Fun...
![]() andy
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...a member of the DriveAccord moderator staff.... We don't tolerate personal attacks!! 3 strikes & you're out!! A 3 "Honda" (and 1 "Ford") Family in NH 04 Mazda Tribute LX 4WD (Black, Son #2's) 110k miles 12 Acura TL SH-AWD Tech Package (White, Wife's toy) 5k miles 12 Honda Civic LX coupe (Silver, Son #1's) 4k miles 13 Acura MDX SH-AWD Base (White, mine) 1k miles |
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#13
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SAAB!!!! (shakes fist at the heavens)
__________________
I suffer from a condition characterized by extremely long posts, sorry... Current: 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX 4-Door (Spark Silver Metallic) WRX's Cardomain Page Previous: 2006 Accord Coupe EX V6 6MT w/ Nav (Graphite Pearl) Accord's Cardomain Page |
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#14
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As everyone else has said, leave the D*** screws out. They are indeed a pain and not needed. Makes me wonder if they did that to get us in the state that Jason was in and just say F it, I'm taking it to the stealer.
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07 Sedan SE I4 Auto TSX IM w/ P2R heatshield Homemade CAI 2.25" exh. w/ 06 Si muffler 17mm TL sway bar Magnefine trans. filter Fumoto Valve Kenwood KFC-6970ie |
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#15
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I just did my pads and rotors a couple weeks ago. My screws weren't too bad, but i had to use the socket and phillips bit to get them loose after a good soaking with rust-b-gone. When i got to my passenger side, there weren't even any there. i went ahead and replaced with new so hopefully i won't have to do rotors very soon.
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2000 V6 LX Sedan Akebono ProAct pads/Brembo Rotors New Michelin Primacy MXV4 rubber Bosch Platinum +4 plugs Mothers Wax |
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