How To Replace Rear Brake Pads ('07 Accord) - Page 3 - Drive Accord Honda Forums

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  #31  
Old 12-22-2008, 09:44 PM
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Honda pads. I looked at PEP boys and they didi not have any. I also checked Autozone, and none either. I just replaced the pads and did not think to lube the rods. I'll probably do that sometime after the Christmas season. I just need to get mt brakes done so I can work. Or do you think i need to do this now? Oh, yes its an 08 Accord. One of the tech at the dealer said that from 2003 to 2008 accords have this problem. He was suprised that my rear pads lasted this long, (I have 25,000 + miles on my car). He said that they usually last about 15,000 miles. I'm gonna bring my old pads to the dealer and show them how they are wearing.
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  #32  
Old 12-28-2008, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda247 View Post
Honda pads. I looked at PEP boys and they didi not have any. I also checked Autozone, and none either. I just replaced the pads and did not think to lube the rods. I'll probably do that sometime after the Christmas season. I just need to get mt brakes done so I can work. Or do you think i need to do this now? Oh, yes its an 08 Accord. One of the tech at the dealer said that from 2003 to 2008 accords have this problem. He was suprised that my rear pads lasted this long, (I have 25,000 + miles on my car). He said that they usually last about 15,000 miles. I'm gonna bring my old pads to the dealer and show them how they are wearing.

A lot of people thought I just drove my car SUPER HARD to have worn OEM brakes down in 20K miles. Someone started a thread about "Honda Quality" pads wearing faster than normal. At that time, I refused to pay nearly $500 dollars for Honda to charge me for pads, rotors, and labor. I bought all the hardware I needed for ~$100, and did the work myself.

UPDATE...

Now with 50K+ miles on car, front pads (w/ 30K miles driven) have more than half the material on them, and rear pads (w/ just over 20K miles driven) look practically new. Duralast Golds should last the life 1.5 times the life of descent performance tires. Should get 50K - 60K out of pads without issue under average driving conditions. I can accept that for aftermarket pads. Now, if you drive any car in an Autocross event, pad wear is emminent (sp?).

Have NO squeeks, qwirks, noises... NOTHING! If this thread helps, GREAT! That was the intent. Recommendations are welcome. Glad to illustrate a kind of "shadetree", but SAFE, way of taking care of your vehicle.

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  #33  
Old 12-28-2008, 08:19 AM
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I have an 07 with original pads and the rear are over 50% left
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  #34  
Old 12-28-2008, 08:23 AM
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05', front and rear pads are at least 50% left.
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  #35  
Old 12-28-2008, 09:53 AM
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by the way I have 56,000 on it...Its all in how you drive...also no brake rotor pulsing neither....
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  #36  
Old 04-11-2009, 05:46 PM
rszappa1 rszappa1 is offline
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Honda 247 what is the name of that tool that you got at Autozone?
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  #37  
Old 06-03-2009, 03:13 PM
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Original pads and shoes on mine at 67K miles.

I have about 30% left on front pads.

Don't know about the shoes but they don't squeel.
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  #38  
Old 07-08-2009, 01:34 PM
hondaguy2582 hondaguy2582 is offline
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Anyone know which side pads with the clips goes on when doing the rears? Rotor was tore up to the point I had to replace it, and nothing was left on the pads itself on the right driver side?
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  #39  
Old 07-14-2009, 11:20 AM
Russ Russ is offline
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My '06 Accord is approaching 50K mi and it's on its second set of pads. The left rear makes a screeching sound on right turns that sounds like the wear indicator is making contact only during right turns. I thought it might be a bearing but the sound is pretty unmistakable. Has anyone else experienced this? So I'm going to inspect the pads and if necessary, change the pads.

Question: What is the proper torque spec for the caliber bolts?

Thanks,
Russ
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  #40  
Old 07-25-2009, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ View Post

Question: What is the proper torque spec for the caliber bolts?

I was actually wondering this too. What are the torque specs for the caliper mounting bolts?
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  #41  
Old 07-30-2009, 09:06 AM
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Would this work? Disc Brake Pad Piston Compressor Caliper Wind Back Tool:


Or just this one? Disc Brake Piston Cube Brake Tool:
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  #42  
Old 09-13-2009, 09:30 PM
Nko1000 Nko1000 is offline
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so i just replaced my rear brake pads, on my 2001 honda accord coupe ex v6, and i was wondering if my e-brake could have been effected? i ask because it seems as if my e-brake got "weaker"? before when i pull up the e-brake and gas it, the car wouldnt move, but now the car moves when i press down hard with the e-brake up. it could simply be that my mind is playing tricks on me or did i screw up some where?
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  #43  
Old 10-16-2009, 10:22 AM
jrath1 jrath1 is offline
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What are the torque requirements?
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  #44  
Old 11-06-2009, 08:19 PM
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Can anyone help me:
When installing (screwing in the caliper outer bolt), noting the flats on the caliper pin, make sure one of the flats rests against the projection on the caliper...

What are the "flats" on the pins so spoken of? Anyone have a picture of the caliper pin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasAccord View Post
Would this work? Disc Brake Pad Piston Compressor Caliper Wind Back Tool:
Code:
Or just this one? Disc Brake Piston Cube Brake Tool:
Code:
The compression clamp will work on the front disc-pistons, but not the rear; to prevent damage on the rear disc-pistons threads you can use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to rotate the piston clockwise to back into the cylinder.

Also - on the rear disc brakes - align one of the grove cutouts in the piston with the tab on the rear-disc-inner-brake-pad (can anyone clarify if this is why the rear inner pad does not have a shim? - only the outer pad). Be careful not to distort the piston boot - if so, turn the piston in the opposite direction to restore the ideal shape of the boot. A little lubrication (rubber grease) could help avoid twisting the piston boot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrath1 View Post
What are the torque requirements?
From a Dec. 2008 Honda bulletin:
AKEBONO-sytem: flang bolt (front): 26ft/lbs
NISSIN-system flang bolt (front): 37ft/lbs
flang bolt (rear):17ft/lbs

I don't know which system is which (AKEBONO / NISSIN); other than one is a larger system and the other isn't; it also depends on your options, and even varies by model year. I also hear there are two different rear brake systems (I guess they mean disc and drum sets? ).

Edit: I believe (maybe) the larger system is the V6 accord (37ft/lbs) and the I4 Accord is a smaller system (26ft/lbs)... 17ft/lbs for the rear disc-brake systems (they still put drums on Accords? lol)
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  #45  
Old 01-01-2010, 07:18 PM
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Is the caliper piston put back in place by turning it?? or pushing it??
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