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Old 03-05-2009, 08:34 AM
kingmack kingmack is offline
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Talking Grinding noise!!!

The sound started when I was backing out. I talked to a mechanic, and he said it was cheap brake pads the previous owner installed. So, I said ok fine. But now, the sound comes and goes when I am driving.

The sound is sporadic, for example, if I hit a bumb, it comes or goes away. If I suddenly brake, it will go away, but as soon as I hit a bumb it will come back...

I am completely lost, for some reason I don't think it's the brake pads anymore. The sound is coming from the passenger rear side, or it could be coming from both, it's really hard to tell.

The sound seems like a grinding noise. I haven't tried replacing the brake pads yet, waiting for spring break.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-07-2009, 01:00 AM
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i think its your brake pads. change them quick or youll end up needing new rotors.
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Old 03-12-2009, 09:23 PM
kingmack kingmack is offline
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Unhappy

Ok, i got some updated information...

Brake pads look good, they are still quite thick. I was driving around to show another friend of this issue, and it took over 30 minutes to reproduce the sound. But once it came back, it was once again on and off. Everytime I hit a bumb it comes on or it goes off. I put the window down to get a clearer sound. It's definitely a grinding metal and metal sound, which is not consistent but very loud.

I am really worried right now, not sure what the problem could be. BTW it's obvious that it's coming from the right passenger rear side. Also when I brake while the sound is on it goes away. Could it really be brake pad issue, even though the pads are fine??
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Old 03-12-2009, 09:35 PM
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^ What kind of brake pads did you put on? Semi metallic or Ceramic? Hondas use Ceramic pads. Try pushing down on the side where the sound is coming from, Make the car bounce on the shock. My cousins accord had a ginding sound and it turned out to be the struts. Good luck.
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Old 03-13-2009, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingmack View Post
Ok, i got some updated information...

Brake pads look good, they are still quite thick. I was driving around to show another friend of this issue, and it took over 30 minutes to reproduce the sound. But once it came back, it was once again on and off. Everytime I hit a bumb it comes on or it goes off. I put the window down to get a clearer sound. It's definitely a grinding metal and metal sound, which is not consistent but very loud.

I am really worried right now, not sure what the problem could be. BTW it's obvious that it's coming from the right passenger rear side. Also when I brake while the sound is on it goes away. Could it really be brake pad issue, even though the pads are fine??
Did you pull the wheels and check the inner pads?
The inner pads will wear out quicker.
I just had to replace the rears on my 02 and the inboard pads were shot.
The warning indicator will make a grinding noise that goes away with application. Try driving slow when you hear the noise and then slightly apply hand/e-brake pressure and see if the noise stops. If it does then you need new rear pads.

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Old 03-13-2009, 07:09 PM
kingmack kingmack is offline
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ok I will try your guys' suggestions... thanks for them btw.

I got some new information. I checked the heat on the rotors after the grinding had been present for some time. The rotors seem to have the same temperature. But I am not sure if the inner pad worn out could affect the rotor temperature??

I ll give you guys some updated news when I get them. Thanks again.
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:57 PM
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I'm not the resident car expert but I had a really weird problem with my accord slightly after purchasing it that sounded a lot like this issue. All of a sudden the car started making an intense grinding noise (metal-on-metal). A bump might stop the noise for a bit like you said but I immediately stopped driving the car - I was very worried.

It turned out it was just the brake dust cover plate behind the rotor that was causing this loud noise. It might have just gotten hit by a rock or something but it was making the most awful noise. But either way I just pushed it backwards away from the rotor and voila - no noise.

I hope this helps your issue because I joined the forums just to let you know of my experience.
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Old 03-21-2009, 04:07 PM
Lana Lana is offline
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I've had similar experience with my '86 Civic. After hearing the noise, I panicked, stopped and called my mechanic. All it took was some compressed air into the rotors and - the problem went away!

On the other hand, nobody could ever describe what does the "terrible noise" mean via forum, so it wouldn't be such a bad idea to visit a shop/dealer... It could be nothing, but that visit might save your head.
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:15 AM
kingmack kingmack is offline
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Interesting... Hondaman can you expand on how exactly you fixed the problem.

I am going to replace the brake pads because the previous owner had put in some cheap brake pads anyways. But it would really help if you can tell me more about the fix. Thanks.

Lana, thanks I ll try that would air from the tire pump from the gas station help?? Anyways I ll try to clean the parts when I replace the pads.

BTW my rotors looks rusted, is that supposed to happen?
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:13 AM
Lana Lana is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingmack View Post
BTW my rotors looks rusted, is that supposed to happen?
Ooops, that's another story... Blowing compressed air cannot remove rust, and your rotors may have gone "beyond the limit".

I'll try to explain, but English is not my native language, so I will use descriptions. There is sort of "wear indicator" on rotors which, when rotors are due for replacement makes some grinding noise similar to the one regarding the dust. It tries to warn driver that there is a need for replacement, although the dashboard warning light does not come on (it is usually connected with breaking fluid indicator).

Gas station compressor for tires may work, but if the problem occurs again, go visit Honda dealer or qualified mechanic shop.
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:00 PM
12153 12153 is offline
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To All:

It is the brake PADS, not the rotors, that typically include a "wear" indicator. This is a metal strip/bracket attached to the pad commonly referred to, in slang terminology, as the "squealer."

When the pad wears to a predetermined thickness, the "squealer" contacts the surface of the rotor, producing a squealing, scraping, or other noise. The noise is indicative that you should replace the brake pads.

At the same time, you should also have the rotors examined. If they are excessively worn, as in below their "minimum thickness," then they should be replaced. A trained mechanic will typically use a micrometer to measure the rotor's thickness and compare it with factory specifications.

Rusting of rotors (and drums, for that matter) is contingent upon their (metal) composition, humidity, and air temperature. It is also contingent upon how long you may allow your car to sit before you drive it again. Most of the time, it's not anything to worry about. Example given: I can drive my '02 today, in a rain storm. Tomorrow, I will typically find light, surface oxidation (rust) on all four rotors. (My car has four-wheel disc brakes.) No big deal, either. As soon as I go down the road, the pads will clear it off.

All the above said, the brakes ARE a very critical safety component/system, and should be checked on a regular basis by a qualified mechanic. I have mine checked during every oil change.
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:24 PM
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FredSVT and All:

Funny(?) story for you, about brakes...

Engineer buddy of mine, who is unfortunately rather ignorant about automobiles, took his old Chevette in for a brake job. Since the left-front wheel was making "rude" noises, he DID realize something was wrong. Being ruthlessly "cost-conscious," he shopped on PRICE alone. (To a certain point, I can agree. Who cares to invest a lot of money into a Chevette? Certainly not me!)

The shop that did the work (NO, I won't mention the name since they are a major chain) did a "WONDERFUL" job. They turned both rotors BELOW the "Min-Thick," then slapped on a new set of pads. Result?

My "Inga-Neer" buddy was later driving down a narrow, two-lane road, suddenly needing to avoid a collision with a deer. He stomped the brakes and the rotor on the right-front brake EXPLODED, locking the wheel, causing him to lose control, and (worse) sending him and the Chevette into a ditch. The car was trashed, but he was luckily unscathed. Thank God he didn't have his wife and kids riding with him at the time. Thank God he didn't hit another vehicle. And NO, he didn't hit the deer, either!

Subsequent examination of the front brakes is when insurance investigators realized the faulty work performed. And yeah, yeah, yeah....my friend SUED the brake shop...and easily won.

Needless to say, I am a real FREAK about safety concerns. Good LIGHTING, good TIRES, and good BRAKES are always at the top of my list!!!
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Old 03-25-2009, 10:07 AM
kingmack kingmack is offline
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The last time I visited the mechanic, he told me that the rear pads will need to be replaced soon, nothing about the rotors. And that's a horrible story about the rotors... I always have the major work done by the honda dealership.

I am going to get the pads from them today, maybe I'll ask one of their mechanics to take a look at my rotors.

BTW I got a torque wrench now I am looking for those hex bits for my wheel. I read somewhere that it was 38mm at 80ft-lbs. Can someone confirm this???
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:16 AM
kingmack kingmack is offline
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Scratch that it's around 18mm??
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Old 03-29-2009, 04:24 PM
kingmack kingmack is offline
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Ok I am running to some problems removing the bolts.

I am removing the two 12mm bolts, I got the bottom out but I cannot remove the top one. My wrench keeps slipping off the ratchet with the bit wouldn't fit there since there is another bolt right behind it. Any ideas, or is there a good tutorial out there? Please help, thx.
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