I couldn't find in the owner's manual when your supposed to change the PCV valve for an 05 Accord with the 2.4L. Any idea? My Toyota was every 30k miles. 
PCV Valve
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buster
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I doubt there is a scheduled interval b/c there's not for the 6th generation. There is a test to see if it's still functioning properly.
When they have symptoms of being bad.....like a dramatic rise in RPM....it's monitored by the computer.
For the 05 L4:
Check the PCV valve (A), hoses (B), and connections for leaks or restrictions.
At idle, make sure there is a clicking sound from the PCV valve when the hose between the PCV valve and intake manifold is lightly pinched (A) with your fingers or pliers.
If there is no clicking sound, check the PCV valve washer for cracks or damage. If the washer is OK, replace the PCV valve and recheck.
For the 05 L4:
Check the PCV valve (A), hoses (B), and connections for leaks or restrictions.
At idle, make sure there is a clicking sound from the PCV valve when the hose between the PCV valve and intake manifold is lightly pinched (A) with your fingers or pliers.
If there is no clicking sound, check the PCV valve washer for cracks or damage. If the washer is OK, replace the PCV valve and recheck.
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I've seen guy's end up with sludge or bad oil analysis results because they did not check the PCV valve. Paying close attention to your car is important. From my experience, the only way to check if the PCV valve isn't doing it's job is to take it out and look at it. If it's clogged, your in trouble. Not sure I'm a fan of this method your suggesting, however, maybe that is how Honda intended it to be. I'm more of a "preventative maintenence" type person. Not wait until you get sick, then treat.
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PCV valves are supposed to rattle. Mine rattles. Therefore I leave it alone.
I know, the spring inside might be bad, or the whole thing might just be bad. But I haven't had a huge rise in RPM or any CEL's thrown by the computer.
I know, the spring inside might be bad, or the whole thing might just be bad. But I haven't had a huge rise in RPM or any CEL's thrown by the computer.
So what is the mileage for engine or tranny replacement? (J/K)buster said:
If you are worried about it, just take it out and clean it off. If it doesn't rattle, squirt some carb cleaner in it until it does. I think PCVs last a lot longer than they used to. I remember having to replace them on circa 70's vehicles, but my '94 Grand Am never had a problem in 120,000 miles. I am sure Honda's will be even better...
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Another thing you should notice is that when you pull the valve out while the engine is running, you should notice the RPM's change. I don't really know if you guys can do that in yours, but mine is in the valve cover so it was simple.
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If the PCV valve fails, will the CEL come on?
I imagine so, cuz the vacuum level will change. But not sure how long it will take, maybe the computer is smart enough to compensate for it?EXLNavi said:
Here's some more info on the little gadget for those who are wondering what a PCV valve is:
The blowby vapors that end up in an engine's crankcase contain moisture as well as combustion byproducts and unburned fuel vapors. The crankcase is sealed to prevent the escape of these gases into the atmosphere, but the vapors must be removed to prevent oil contamination that leads to sludge formation. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system siphons these vapors from the crankcase and routes them into the intake manifold so they can be reburned in the engine.
The PCV valve is a spring-loaded valve with a specific orifice size designed to restrict the amount of air that's siphoned from the crankcase into the intake manifold. This is necessary because air drawn through the valve from the crankcase has a leaning effect on the fuel mixture much the same as a vacuum leak. So air flow through the valve must be controlled within certain limits. At idle, air flow is reduced because little blowby is produced. When the engine is cruising and vacuum is high, airflow through the PCV valve is at a maximum to purge the blowby vapors from the crankcase.
It's important to note that PCV valves are sized for specific engine applications. The wrong PCV valve for an application can flow too much or too little air causing driveability problems. Varnish deposits can clog the valve, so replacement for preventative maintenance is recommended (every 50,000 miles usually).
Not all engines have PCV valves. Some (like Ford Escort, GM FWD cars with the Quad Four engine, etc.) ventilate the crankcase with a small breather hose and calibrated orifice. There is no spring-loaded PCV valve. On these applications, no maintenance is usually necessary.
Does anyone have any recommendations on how to remove the pcv valve for the I4? It's tought to get to and the hose is on really tight. I removed the hose clamp on the hose attached to the valve itself but it still wouldn't budge. I didn't want to break it.
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I just wiggle the hose back and forth while pulling, and it gradually works off. Are you looking at an aftermarket replacement or OEM?
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I'm not sure if you're willing to give this a shot, but of course use caution if you do. When I was working with the tranny fluid lines on the Ody I found that it helped if I stuck a small screwdriver between the fittings (valve in your case) and the line.
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