DIY: TSX Rear Sway Bar swap for 8th Gen Accord - video - Page 3 - Drive Accord Honda Forums

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  #31  
Old 09-12-2009, 07:03 PM
BrianMassie BrianMassie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8thGenInspire View Post
k so I've had my tsx bar waiting in the garage for the longest time. I don't have any of the stands to do this DIY myself and I've been busy with school.

Can u guys recommend anywhere to get this done? I was thinking a discount tire center down the street. and with the ease of the installation what do you think is a good price for a place to charge?
No offense, but seriously? This is one of the simplest DIY jobs there is. Changing the oil is far more complex than this(!) Don't be afraid of the job, just do it!
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  #32  
Old 09-13-2009, 05:33 AM
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Hittman Hittman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8thGenInspire View Post
*o btw hittman, i think you got jacked man where did your trunk lip spoiler go? its supposed to be standard on all v6 coupes
8thGen - I think you're right. I just looked on the Honda website, and they list the Rear Decklid Spoiler as a standard exterior feature. I wonder if my trunk got swapped, or somehow they missed this at the factory? I did have the V6 badge on the back.
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  #33  
Old 09-13-2009, 10:19 AM
8thGenInspire 8thGenInspire is offline
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Originally Posted by Basque Red View Post
8thGen since you're in the 626 I would recommend avoiding any autoshops that start with "abc" or "xyz" or any other shops that start with three consecutive alphanumeric characters.
haha I'm in 949 now for school, but i get what your saying lol. But there are SOME shops with consecutive alphanumeric characters that are good

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianMassie View Post
No offense, but seriously? This is one of the simplest DIY jobs there is. Changing the oil is far more complex than this(!) Don't be afraid of the job, just do it!
yeah but I just don't have the stands. I'm thinking of going to my friend's house to do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hittman View Post
8thGen - I think you're right. I just looked on the Honda website, and they list the Rear Decklid Spoiler as a standard exterior feature. I wonder if my trunk got swapped, or somehow they missed this at the factory? I did have the V6 badge on the back.
I'm pretty sure its your dealer that tried to screw you. check to see if any of the employees have a v6 decklid on their i4
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  #34  
Old 09-22-2009, 02:52 PM
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i just installed my 22mm tsx sway bar

body roll is considerably less when i took some tight turns at high speed (50mph)
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  #35  
Old 09-23-2009, 12:09 AM
rockman rockman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkcheng122 View Post
think most of us got ours for $70 at magauto.com
-I went to magauto.com & after selecting swaybar&bushing(x2) after repeated attempts to 'checkout'---their system kept 'saying'"you have nothing in your cart"????? WTF?
Either I'm retarded or they're "system" aint working..??

Anyone else have problems there??
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  #36  
Old 09-23-2009, 12:27 AM
rockman rockman is offline
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Well, I managed to place my order at DelrayACURA----$79.40(w/S&H)--

the part # were--52300-TL2-AO1(swayBar) & 52306-TL2--AO2(Bushingx2)

Hope I got the right stuff..cause your part#'s were---52300-TL-AO1---slightly different...?
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  #37  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:39 AM
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I would ask them if it's the 17mm and the corresponding bushings. I had trouble with Magauto too when I was using FireFox, but no issues with IE8.
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6. TSX 17mm rear sway bar
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  #38  
Old 09-29-2009, 11:44 PM
rockman rockman is offline
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-I received my 17mm swaybar--it's really not THAT much bigger than the 15mm bar...I'm thinking the 22mm is the way to go..??

Now I gotta find were you guys are buying the 22mm swaybar???
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  #39  
Old 09-30-2009, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockman View Post
-I received my 17mm swaybar--it's really not THAT much bigger than the 15mm bar...I'm thinking the 22mm is the way to go..??

Now I gotta find were you guys are buying the 22mm swaybar???
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think putting such a large bar in back without upgrading the front bar as well may cause snap oversteer ..
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  #40  
Old 10-02-2009, 12:17 AM
rockman rockman is offline
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Originally Posted by kopimon View Post
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think putting such a large bar in back without upgrading the front bar as well may cause snap oversteer ..
I dont understand why it would cause "snap oversteer" because ALL the swaybar does is keep the back of car LEVEL when cornering......that's it!

I had a '79 Olds 98 & a '73Olds Cutlass--back in the day---neither car had SWAYBARs in the back BUT I installed SWAYBARS in BOTH(rear only) & they cornered like racecars--they performed OUTSTANDING--my point: beefing up our swaybar from 15mm to 22mm cant hurt...just make us more LEVEL.

then again I dont even know what SNAP OVERSTEER is??? so, no offense....just sharing what little I've experienced w/swaybars.
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  #41  
Old 10-02-2009, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockman View Post
I dont understand why it would cause "snap oversteer" because ALL the swaybar does is keep the back of car LEVEL when cornering......that's it!

I had a '79 Olds 98 & a '73Olds Cutlass--back in the day---neither car had SWAYBARs in the back BUT I installed SWAYBARS in BOTH(rear only) & they cornered like racecars--they performed OUTSTANDING--my point: beefing up our swaybar from 15mm to 22mm cant hurt...just make us more LEVEL.

then again I dont even know what SNAP OVERSTEER is??? so, no offense....just sharing what little I've experienced w/swaybars.
Snap oversteer is the tendency for the car to oversteer quickly and unexpectedly (such that you don't have time to correct it before you lose control).

The way it works is a bigger bar in the front increases rear lateral traction and a bigger bar in the rear increases front lateral traction.

So if the bar in the rear is much bigger than the bar in the front, the front will have much more traction than the rear .. so the car will tend to oversteer
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19" HFP Wheels ¤ Tein SS Coils ¤ Retro Solutions 55W 5000K low beam HID & 35W 3000K fog HID ¤ 3M clear bra ¤ 3M tints (50/50/35) ¤ Angel Eyes

JL C5-650 components in front
JL C5-650x coaxials in rear
JL Slash 300/4v2 amp
JL CleanSweep
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  #42  
Old 10-16-2009, 03:15 PM
Ponzy Ponzy is offline
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nice info from all of u...... i was just thinking is there any available poly urethane bushings for the end links and mount? if so, where did u get it and how much? cuz if thats the case i would try installng a stiffer bushings first then swap in the rear sway bar for the purpose of l"less work" with changing just the end links and mount bushings lol......

im a newb here but i read the whole thread........ 17 mmm ..makes sense cuz if its 22 rear and 26(?) front, that might cause a snap oversteer... im not an expert on suspension but what i did on my infiniti was 28/22 F/R with eibach and tokiko struts plus SPL adjustable FUCA and tension rods with adjustable RUCA and remaining bushings as poly urethane, ..... all i can say is WOW........ !
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  #43  
Old 10-18-2009, 09:20 PM
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MrLogan13 MrLogan13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianMassie View Post
No offense, but seriously? This is one of the simplest DIY jobs there is. Changing the oil is far more complex than this(!) Don't be afraid of the job, just do it!
Nothing wrong with paying someone else to do it for you; some people do not have the inclination or time to do it themselves. Some of us have more important things to do.
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  #44  
Old 10-25-2009, 08:10 PM
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brooks08v6coupe brooks08v6coupe is offline
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progress 22mm sway bar

I just installed the progress 22mm sway bar. The video was very helpful. if you get the progress sway bar you will have to drill out the bracket holes a bit if you want the new bolts to fit. Not a big deal just took some time.
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  #45  
Old 10-26-2009, 05:44 AM
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Just thought I'd offer a word of caution to all...

Despite taking precautions (i.e. liquid wrench on the end link nuts), the rust that had formed on everything over time still made it hard to unbolt the end link.

I managed to strip the hex-shaped keyway that's in the end of the end link bolts (where the 5mm allen key goes) on one side. Had to remove the sway bar with that one link still connected, and then use a hacksaw to cut the link off the sway bar. Bought a new nut, and used what little thread I had left on the end link to put everything back together with some lock tite, but I'm not confident that it'll hold indefinitely. New end link is now on order ($32 CAD)

If I had to do it all over again, I would still use the liquid wrench, but I would let it sit longer, hammer it a little harder, and then use a tap and die set to clean off the rust from the threads before trying to remove the nuts.

I have to say that it's the dumbest arrangement on Honda's part. It's not the first time I've stripped the hex keyway in the end of a bolt because things had seized up over time. There has to be a better design out there that would allow better application of counter-torque.
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