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Old 11-14-2009, 01:08 PM
roadhog02 roadhog02 is offline
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Crankshaft Position Sensor

Hi! I'm a new memember and I am looking for infomation on how to test and replace the CPS on a 97 Accord EX with the 4 Cyl VTEC motor. I did a search and did not find anything that would show me what I am looking for. Thank you for any help that you can give me.
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Old 11-14-2009, 01:23 PM
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What issue are you having that's leading you to look at the CKP? (crank sensor)
How many miles are on your car?
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:25 PM
roadhog02 roadhog02 is offline
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I have just over 200,000 miles on my car. When the check engine light came on I read the code on my testor and it came up with Crankshaft Sensor "A" as the error for the check engine light.
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:09 PM
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I've had the CPS go bad on my Ranger before. Got the engine code like you and when I took the sensor off, I found that the plastic parts had broken off and caused damaged to the shaft as well. Ended up having to replace the shaft as well as the sensor.
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:36 AM
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Can you post which code number. There are 4 sensors, 3 in the distributor and the one at the lower timing belt sprocket that can be called that.

There's a CYP, (cylinder position), TDC (top dead center), CKP (crank position), CMP (camshaft position).

Usually the car will continue to run with the one by the timing belt not working on older cars as it was just used for misfire diagnosis. The 3 in the distributor are the ones that are very important for running.
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Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock
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Old 11-15-2009, 12:32 PM
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The test equipment that I am using (Autoscanner by Actron) just says "Crankshaft Position Sensor A". It doesn't diplay a numerical code. Mu assumption would be that it is refering to the one at the crankshaft then.

Is there any way to test the sensor with an ohm meter?
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:27 PM
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A test with an ohm meter may or may not show a problem with it.

The sensor can have the correct resistance but still not output the proper signal to the PCM. Make sure the wires leading to the sensor are in tact, undamaged and not soaked with oil or anything contaminating the plug that goes down to that sensor.

Without the code, I can't tell you which sensor to check.

If it was one in the distributor, you can't replace any of them, you have to replace the entire distributor body.
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Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:14 PM
roadhog02 roadhog02 is offline
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Thank you for the information. I'll cean it up because it is coated in oil and dirt and see what happens. This would be un unlikely fix for me though, I don't have that kind of luck!
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:14 PM
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Carefully check the wires for soft spots and any places the insulation may have been damaged by the oil. If there's oil IN the connector for the sensor (outside the timing cover) clean it really well, there can be issues from that.

There should be a foil type metal shield around the wires, if it contacts any copper in the wires, the sensor will be dead for all intents and purposes.
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Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock
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