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Old 11-16-2009, 10:05 AM
Mercury33 Mercury33 is offline
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2000 V6 info/issues

New here and great forum!

So much good info here and I wish I would have found this a long time ago.

Thought I'd share just a little info on my 2000 accord.

Currently at approx. 90,000 and my transmission is still working very well.
I swaped out the Z1 in it with Amsoil ATF at 30,000 and been doing a 3.5 quart change with Amsoil ATF yearly since. I see Fred does not like Amsoil ATF and he may very well be correct. I'd have put Redline in it if I'd seen this forum first. At any rate so far so good with the Amsoil ATF. If and when it fails I'll post it.

I just had to have my Steering Rack replaced at a cost of almost 1400 dollars. It started leaking fluid like crazy. Pouring out. No one has ever touched this car except for me and I have always used Honda power steering fluid so it's not a result of the wrong fluid being used. I'm pretty pissed off about it as in my opinion this is a part that should never go bad. I've had american cars over 300,000 that never had a bad steering rack.

I also had one rear hub went bad at 56,000. When I took the rotor & hub off the roller bearings all fell out and the race was all chewed up. My opinion this is another part that should never go bad. Much less at 50K

My Alternator went bad at 63K. Should have last at least 100K

Just had my timing belt service which set me back almost 900 bucks. (dealer price)

So I donno.......... I've liked the car and still do. Just hoping nothing else goes wrong for a while as I can't afford it.

Oh I put Amsoil ATF in my wifes CRV too as soon as we got it new. So far so good. I'll probably be using Redline D4 from now on though as I trust Fred's opinion after reading here.

Thanks for this great forum with such a wealth of information, Mark
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:50 PM
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The rack is an oddball failure. I think I've changed 1 in any model Accord and seen 1 leak in over 20 years.

The alternator is a known issue, if the battery ever has any issue, such as not wanting to take a full charge, it stresses the crummy Delphi diodes, and usually one blows and the lights come on and the alternator whines loudly while getting really hot. Usually they make it to 130k. If it were a Denso, usually they can make it the life of the car.

The rear wheel bearings, all it takes is one good pothole and they start moaning. Nothing unusual for any modern car. You should see the failure rate of GM fwd and 4wd truck front hub bearing units. They can cost up to $500 each.

What did the dealer do for $900? I hope that also included at least plugs/wires (yours has them?) Just a belt, pump and drive belts at that price is VERY steep.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:01 AM
Mercury33 Mercury33 is offline
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Thanks Fred,

Ok so it looks like I've had pretty good luck all except for the steering rack going out on me. Car is 10 years old now so I guess I cannot complain to much.

Checking my receipt now. Steering rack cost me $1352

Timing was a little less than I thought: 799.99 $(800)
timing belt
water pump
oil seal
another oil seal
coolant
P.S Belt
Comp. Belt

I noticed the coolant they used is still the bright green stuff not the newer blue stuff I've read about here.

And yeah when my alternator went out on me it started sounding kind of like an airplane under the hood speeding up an slowing down with engine speed. I changed that and rear hubs myself as a pretty easy job.

I changed my own plugs this summer with some NKG Iridium. Car seems to like them as it's running well. The old ones I could feel were missing while idleing at stop lights. It's not doing that anymore with the new ones. I didn't see any spark plug wires to change. Just wires into a harness. I hope we don't have to change those because that looks like an ugly job?

Well again thanks Fred and everyone for the great forum. Nice to find a place to come when we have issues with our Accord!

Mark
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredsvt View Post
The rack is an oddball failure. I think I've changed 1 in any model Accord and seen 1 leak in over 20 years.

The alternator is a known issue, if the battery ever has any issue, such as not wanting to take a full charge, it stresses the crummy Delphi diodes, and usually one blows and the lights come on and the alternator whines loudly while getting really hot. Usually they make it to 130k. If it were a Denso, usually they can make it the life of the car.

The rear wheel bearings, all it takes is one good pothole and they start moaning. Nothing unusual for any modern car. You should see the failure rate of GM fwd and 4wd truck front hub bearing units. They can cost up to $500 each.
FredSVT:

As usual, YOU are preaching the "Gospel Truth."

I am quite happy to hear that Honda rack failures are the exception, NOT the rule!

(BTW, my Gen Three's original rack lasted until July 2006...some 20 (twenty) years. I replaced it with a Genuine Honda "reman," at a cost of ~$340.00. )

HMC should be ASHAMED for installing a Delphi alternator on a Gen Six (or any other) car. Once I saw it, the very day I bought my '02, knowing about the cheap-a$$, crummy Diode bridge they routinely use, is WHY I stopped by AutoZone, on my way back home, to get the BIGGEST, most POWERFUL battery they sell. (Namely, a Group 24, DuraLast Gold, with 750 CCA and eight-year warranty.) My point, and as you say, if you have a weak/substandard battery in a Gen Six car, you're just begging for alternator failure.

(This is WHY I earlier asked you about my doing a conversion to a Denso unit. )

The REAR wheel bearings on my trusty '86 are (surprisingly?) ORIGINAL. But I won't be shocked if ANY of my '02's wheel bearings died tomorrow, despite the smooth roadways I routinely enjoy. Why, you may ask? Because I see my dealer replacing a TON of Odyssey and (later) Accord wheel bearings, regardless of mileage and/or age.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:52 AM
Mercury33 Mercury33 is offline
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Antifreeze - Looked at it in the sunlight today and it is in fact a little bluish/green. It's the new stuff.

Also changed out my power steering fluid today (honda fluid) (3 times/partial change) After spending an arm & leg for a new Rack I wanted to be SURE my fluid was ok.

Old stuff was a little brownish but not to bad. I figure they had to change some of it with the Rack so I changed some more of it. Should be good to go.
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:20 PM
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So they didn't flush the old fluid out when they replaced the rack??? Should have, IMO...
I also had to replace the right rear (passengers side) bearing. I already flushed the PSF by using a hand pump and sucking the old fluid out, and replacing the PSF many times (mine was contaminated with ATF, I think. I plan to do this again probably every 100K.
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Honda Accord, 2001, 2.3L (L4), F23A4, 4D EX - My main carů
Ford Taurus, 1992, 3.8L V6, - Trany prob's
Toyota 4x4 Extra Cab Truck, 2.4L SR5, 22RTE (Turbo) 1987, I still have.
Honda Accord, 1984, 1800cc? L4,
Plymouth Arrow, 1978?, 1800cc?, L4 (POS)
Chevy, Monza, 1976, 350cu, V8, My funnest car, think muscle car, poorly made...
Olds Starfire? 1975, 231cu odd fire, V6,
My first car, 1965 Chevy Impala 283cu V8, (I got during the mid 1980)
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:26 PM
Mercury33 Mercury33 is offline
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So they didn't flush the old fluid out when they replaced the rack??? Should have, IMO...
I also had to replace the right rear (passengers side) bearing. I already flushed the PSF by using a hand pump and sucking the old fluid out, and replacing the PSF many times (mine was contaminated with ATF, I think. I plan to do this again probably every 100K.
No they didn't flush squat, power steering fluid or antifreeze. Figured out that's why my antifreeze still looks greenish because they left all the old antifreeze in there that didn't drain out when they did my timing belt service. Then just toped it back off with the blue stuff.

I figured to go to the dealer to receive better service but now I don't think so. I think they leave crap so you'll have to come back again later for more repairs. I donno......

But noticed that the Power Steering Fluid on my CRV is awful brown and cloudy now compared to my Accord's new fluid. I'm going to go get some more and change it out too. Cheap and easy to do so better safe than sorry. Don't want another rack failure.....
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Old 11-18-2009, 03:25 PM
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The funny or sad thing is, I have never changed PS fluid in any Honda I've owned or serviced at work.

The '98 here has 240k on it, and it's all original. I've seen cars with over 300k with original PS fluid and have rarely if ever had to add fluid to them.
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Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock
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Old 11-18-2009, 03:32 PM
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Bruce Hawkins Bruce Hawkins is offline
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I did it on my 87 Toy truck at about 300K, when I replace the pressure house...
My Accord's PSF is starting to look a little dirty. I done 75K sense the last change, using Honda PSF...
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Honda Accord, 2001, 2.3L (L4), F23A4, 4D EX - My main carů
Ford Taurus, 1992, 3.8L V6, - Trany prob's
Toyota 4x4 Extra Cab Truck, 2.4L SR5, 22RTE (Turbo) 1987, I still have.
Honda Accord, 1984, 1800cc? L4,
Plymouth Arrow, 1978?, 1800cc?, L4 (POS)
Chevy, Monza, 1976, 350cu, V8, My funnest car, think muscle car, poorly made...
Olds Starfire? 1975, 231cu odd fire, V6,
My first car, 1965 Chevy Impala 283cu V8, (I got during the mid 1980)
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:22 AM
Mercury33 Mercury33 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredsvt View Post
The funny or sad thing is, I have never changed PS fluid in any Honda I've owned or serviced at work.

The '98 here has 240k on it, and it's all original. I've seen cars with over 300k with original PS fluid and have rarely if ever had to add fluid to them.
Fred, Yesterday I compared the power steering fluid in my wifes' CRV side by side with the fresh power steering fluid now in my Accord. Huge difference. The CRV's fluid is very brown and very cloudly compared to the Accord's off/clear color fluid.

Yeah perhaps it doesn't matter but after spending so much on the rack I figure it can't hurt........ But me either I've never changed power steering fluid in any of my cars in the past either. 1st time.

Mark
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Old 02-13-2010, 06:50 AM
SATXAccord SATXAccord is offline
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Fred or anyone -

Can you describe the symptoms of wheel bearing failure on front? Rear? My 2000 V6 has not had replacements in 148K. Now I'm concerned about having to put $$$ aside for that repair.
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Old 02-13-2010, 07:00 AM
sodaks2k sodaks2k is offline
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Fred or anyone -

Can you describe the symptoms of wheel bearing failure on front? Rear? My 2000 V6 has not had replacements in 148K. Now I'm concerned about having to put $$$ aside for that repair.
They usually make a "whirring/warbling" type noise. Raise the rear and spin the wheel(s). If they still make the noise, then it's more than likely the bearing.

Parts prices here.
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Old 02-13-2010, 10:14 AM
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When wheel bearings start to go bad/fail, you will usually know it...IMMEDIATELY. NOT to be confused with bad CV joints, you'll likely hear a whining and/or roaring noise. Give it the old "Figure 8" steering test, in a big parking lot, with the windows down. And as FredSVT says, put the car up in the air (on a rack), then slowly spin each wheel, listening carefully for any unusual sounds.
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Old 02-13-2010, 10:34 AM
sodaks2k sodaks2k is offline
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And as FredSVT says, put the car up in the air (on a rack), then slowly spin each wheel, listening carefully for any unusual sounds.
Uh, who said that?...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaks2k View Post
They usually make a "whirring/warbling" type noise. Raise the rear and spin the wheel(s). If they still make the noise, then it's more than likely the bearing.
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Old 02-13-2010, 02:09 PM
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Uh, who said that?...
FredSVT, Ol' Warden, and YOU said it.
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