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Old 04-09-2010, 10:05 PM
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Transmission filter replacement?

When should the transmission filter be changed an how? I guess it's located inside the transmission, right? I'm just curious because I will be changing my transmission fluid shortly as my mileage is almost 120K miles on my '05 accord v6.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:55 PM
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When: 90K miles ago

How: http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/AutoFilterPage.html
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Old 04-10-2010, 01:35 AM
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Honda says it is a lifetime filter.

Like alot of things Honda says that is full of &^$

I would have changed it at 60k since it is such a small filter.

Because of the tranny issues many have changed it earlier.

I am using Magnefine and would highly recommend it.

Search, there are step by step instructions on this forum installing magnefine.

I would also use Redline D4.

The filter is outside the transmission but kind of hard to get to.

Go to a Honda parts site and look for the filter and you can see the diagram.

Honda says only Z1. Honda says lifetime filter. Honda says no blowing v6 auto trannies before 120k miles too.
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Old 04-10-2010, 04:32 PM
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The Magnefine thing is for the I4 and not the V6. The V6 has a filter that's a little tougher to get to.

The link that namegoeshere provides is excellent. I also find this post from 2007 to be helpful:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=13804


I have a 2004 V6 at 99K miles, and my transmission has been shifting harder for at least the last 9K miles so I did the (first) ATF and filter swap this morning. After three drain/refills, it was better. After four drain/refills and the filter change, it's beautifully smooth again.

I tried buying my parts (see the right-hand side of namegoeshere's link) from a couple of local dealerships, but they wanted something like $66 for them (not including the fluids!). I ordered my parts online from hondapartsnow.com because they're actually local to me, and the parts showed up quickly. Even though they charged $11 for shipping, my total price was still half of what the dealerships wanted.

I went with the Redline D4 ATF and got 12 quarts shipped to me for $110 (look for a reseller on Amazon). This is cheaper than what my local dealers want for for Honda Z1 ATF.

I did four drains and flush and drove a few miles in between. On the last drain and flush, I installed the new filter. Cracking open the ATF housing requires removing the air cleaner box. I also took out the battery and tray, but I'm not sure you need to do that.

People talk about the 3rd bolt on the ATF filter housing, the one on the bottom being difficult to access. I found that removing the other two bolts and the banjo bolt gives you more room. After that, it was just a matter of working at it 1/6 a turn at a time with a spanner until it came out.

You're going to need a 17mm spanner to get that banjo bolt out. I also used 17mm, 10mm and 8mm sockets, socket extensions and a 10mm spanner for that pesky third bolt. The drain plug needs a 3/8-inch socket to remove it. I used my torque wrench because it's got a long handle. A lot of people complain about how tight that drain plug is; it was no problem for me with an 18-inch long wrench.

The "2 Banjo fitting compression washers" referred to on namegoeshere's link are simply the 12mm crush washers that you use for the oil drain plug. My 2004 EXL V6 (that I bought new) had only one crush washer on it, but the blown up picture from Honda shows 2 crush washers. I reassembled it according to the picture because I have plenty of those 12mm crush washers around.

Good luck!
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Old 04-10-2010, 04:33 PM
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You can run a Magnefine on a 4cyl or a V6, but the OP has a 4 cylinder
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Old 04-10-2010, 04:37 PM
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Also, I used the ATF refill hole and didn't go through the dipstick. I had to take out a couple of bolts to get the fuse box out of the way a little and then I was able to get a 17mm socket on that thing and also use a funnel during the refill.

If you want to replace the crush washer on the refill hole, the part number is 90441-PK4-000 24mm washer, sealing
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Old 04-10-2010, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenjiBoy650 View Post
You can run a Magnefine on a 4cyl or a V6, but the OP has a 4 cylinder
I haven't found any info about the Magnefine on a V6... maybe so.

Also, don't the last two characters on the OP's posting say "v6"??
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Old 04-10-2010, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumpletzer View Post
I haven't found any info about the Magnefine on a V6... maybe so.

Also, don't the last two characters on the OP's posting say "v6"??
His post says V6, but his avatar is a picture of an I4. I'm guessing the V6 in the post is correct, but who knows.
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Old 04-10-2010, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumpletzer View Post
Also, don't the last two characters on the OP's posting say "v6"??
His avatar says 4 cylinder, and I tend to trust pictures over what people say Seen too many people think their car is something else when the pictures clearly show its not...so who knows.
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Old 04-11-2010, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumpletzer View Post
I haven't found any info about the Magnefine on a V6... maybe so.
I’m running a Magnefine filter on my V6. The conversion is really simple and can be done a few ways. As I run an external transmission cooler, I ordered another rear Banjo pipe fitting from Honda (very low cost).

This new short fitting replaces the long output fitting running from the filter housing to the rear of the transmission. You simply leave the old filter out of the housing and attach the new short banjo fitting to the filter housing end cap so that it faces forward towards the front of the vehicle. The Magnefine filter is placed in an easy to access position in the output line that now runs to the “new” transmission cooler. The output of the “new cooler” runs to the Banjo fitting at the back of the transmission.

Temps over 115deg and 13 hour drives – To anyone who thinks you don’t need a cooler, good for you, don’t think it helps in these conditions; good for you again, now go tell it to someone else and don’t waste space here preaching to me.
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:05 PM
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I'm confused.... Is this only applicable for the V6 engines? I would like to do the same procedure to my 4 cylinder mule.
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:24 PM
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Does anyone know where the AT fluid filter is on a '04 four cylinder?
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r_mojo1 View Post
Does anyone know where the AT fluid filter is on a '04 four cylinder?
I believe it is bolted to the top of the transmission, torwards the rear, near the fluid return fitting.
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:38 PM
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This is a fun thread to read for the I4 ATF filter:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=14699

It gives you an idea of what you're looking for, and it talks about aftermarket filters. I looked at the drawings, and it looks like the I4 filter should be right there on the top (driver's side). If the stuff inside an I4 is set up like a V6, then it would be under the fuse box.
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Old 04-22-2010, 03:24 PM
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Trans cooler hose routing

MikeCz,

Thanks for posting this info on your cooler setup – using an extra rear banjo fitting is a great idea.

I would like some details on hose routing please. I think that the new banjo fitting facing frontwards lines up perfectly with the trans mount – do you go over or under this? Is your battery in the stock location and do you have the stock air box setup? Any difficulty with hose routing under the air box or under the battery? Also, between the battery and the radiator is an air duct – did you have trouble getting past this? Lastly, have you disconnected the heater?

I think your RHD setup is the same as my LHD

Thanks
andrew
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