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Old 08-06-2010, 06:52 AM
slidingdelta slidingdelta is offline
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Getting out rotor screws

Later this afternoon I'm hopefully going to change the rotors and pads on the front wheels of my father's Accord. But in searching around I've seen that there are two rotor retaining screws that can be difficult to get out. Instead of buying an impact driver I'm hoping I can drill them out as suggested before on here. I've never actually done this and could really use some tips. So you use a drill bit about the same size as the screw shank and drill through the middle untill the head falls off, then grip the portion of the thread that is sticking out? Does this sound right, or what would happen if the head brakes off evenly with the rotor surface and there is nothing to grip on? Lastly, it should be ok not to replace these screws to avoid this problem in the future, right?

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Old 08-06-2010, 06:58 AM
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Someone will tell you otherwise, but you do not need these screws when reinstalling brake rotor.

And yes a drill bit that is slightly larger in diameter than the screw thread will do the trick, you will drill out the head only as the drill will contact the chamfered hole in the old rotor, remove the rotor, and grab the remaining thread with a Vise-Grip to back it out.
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:14 AM
slidingdelta slidingdelta is offline
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So once the heads are off the screw, the rotor will just slide right off? At first I was thinking the screw threads would still hold the rotor on even if the screw head is off...

Thanks again!
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:21 AM
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Yes, the hole in the rotor is straight through with no threads, the thread is in the hub behind the rotor, you'll be fine.
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Clutch slave cylinder restrictor valve delete.

Acura TL 5-spoke rims 245/45-17 Bridgestone Pole Position RE970
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:33 AM
slidingdelta slidingdelta is offline
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Ah, that should make it easier!

As an unrelated question...Before I buy the parts, for those that have used ceramic brake pads have you notice any change in wear rate of the rotors? Either faster or slower? Searching on google is yielding mixed answers on this. I can't order online, since I need them today, so I will have to rely on local stores. I'm hoping they could help keep down the brake dust which gets frustrating to clean off the plastic hub caps. But if the rotors wear faster I wonder if it's worth the hassle...
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:38 AM
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I am using Wagner ceramic pads, no observable increase in rotor wear and significant dust reduction, and they stop very well.
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Clutch slave cylinder restrictor valve delete.

Acura TL 5-spoke rims 245/45-17 Bridgestone Pole Position RE970
Honda steel rims 225/55-16 Michelin Alpin PA2


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Old 08-06-2010, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviography View Post
I am using Wagner ceramic pads, no observable increase in rotor wear and significant dust reduction, and they stop very well.
Ditto this!
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Old 08-06-2010, 08:13 AM
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I installed Brembo Pro-ACT ceramic pads summer last year. I have not notice significant rotor wear, brakes really well, a lot less brake dust.
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:13 AM
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I just replaced the rotors and pads on my sedan using Raybestos Adv Technology rotors and regular Duralast ceramic pads. This was a huge improvement to the stock rotors and pads that were trying to vibrate my wheels off on every stop. Braking is smooth and even, but they have not been on long enough to determine brake life.

During the replacement, I had no issue with the first three rotors and the last screw on the last rotor decided to completely strip. Since the screw head was completely stripped, I was forced to drill it out. I used a drill bit that was the same size as the screw body with a decent powered drill and it took about 30 secs to get the screw out. Since I used a bit that was the same size, I could tell when I was to the old rotor because the screw head began to rotate with the drill bit.

As for if you need the screws for normal operation, I would say they are nice for reassembly. If you have no screws, the rotor will not sit flat on the hub while you are trying to insert the brake pads. One screw will hold it on just fine for you. I reinstalled all of the screws on the first three rotors and one on the last and all have performed pefectly. I would recommend that you not crank them down very hard to help you on the next swap.

I hope that helps since this is my first post. (I will add pictures of my own car when I can)
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:21 AM
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WhiteFire07,

Welcome to DA.

What would also help is to put some anti-seize compound on the threads of these bugger screws, it will help to stop them from seizing in there, but doesn't guarantee as I've had screws seize even when I did put the compound on them before.
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Clutch slave cylinder restrictor valve delete.

Acura TL 5-spoke rims 245/45-17 Bridgestone Pole Position RE970
Honda steel rims 225/55-16 Michelin Alpin PA2


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Old 08-06-2010, 03:12 PM
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good luck! I just did this job 2 weeks ago, brakes all around. All of the screws came out with a regular screwdriver (i am lucky i know) this was at 81K on the clock. I took them out and did NOT put them back in. I used centric premium rotors and hawk pads in the front and duralast pads in the rear.
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:43 PM
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sounds like more work to me. An impact driver for like $25
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:54 PM
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have not had to mess with them yet. On my 07 Accord have 111,000 on it with OEM front pads still on and replaced the rear at around 100,00. Got the new front pads ready to go......
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Old 08-06-2010, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rszappa1 View Post
have not had to mess with them yet. On my 07 Accord have 111,000 on it with OEM front pads still on and replaced the rear at around 100,00. Got the new front pads ready to go......
That, HAS to be a record!
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Acura TL 5-spoke rims 245/45-17 Bridgestone Pole Position RE970
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Old 08-06-2010, 05:57 PM
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and they acually still have some meat on them....no noise at all...
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