8th Gen Accord Morimoto H1 Projector retrofit - Tips, Tricks and Advices

[DrivenDreams]

*** WARNING, DO AT YOUR OWN RISK ***
I will not be held responsible for any damages you incur to you car, and your hands (yes, your hands will get abused)

If you want to retrofit, go ahead. You won't regret it
If you are scared, I dare you < jk, don't take it seriously

I retrofitted my headlights yesterday, with Morimoto Mini H1 Bi-Xenon kit from TheRetrofitSource And I'm loving it, it's nothing like Halogen. There's so much more light, and amazing colorful cut-off thanks to the projectors. It took me a single night of prep and half a day to do everything. I didn't have HID, so it took more time to figure out where to mount the relay and ballasts.

I wanted to do a DIY, but then I got lazy, so no DIY. I'm just gonna share some info from what I learned. However, you want step-by-step instruction, here is a link from 8th Gen Civic DIY. It's basically same thing.
Preparation

1 Projectors - You gotta unscrew the lens holder (black) from reflector housing (shinny). Then clean inside the reflector and the back of the lens (projectors arrive with some dust and small particles inside ) using dry cloth. I suggest wearing gloves when handling the projectors, you don't want to leave fingerprints. Then mod the shield, I used a can of Diet Coke. Here are some tips from TRS on that topic.

I'm just using the projector for low beam, so I warped the solenoid wires around the solenoid.


2 Shround - From what the TRS guys told me. Some shrouds use clips to hold on and some, fortunately for me, use screws (screws came with shroud) , and others, you do need to glue.
Painting - you don't need high temp paint.


Depending on what shrouds you get, you might have a ring of light leak from the outer side of the lens. The fix is in this link, page 2.

3 Removing the Bumper - I suggest using WD-40. Spray it on the plugs, and it will be easier to removed and install back. Here are few links on how to remove bumper for Sedan:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ol2OF9qRM0
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/at...2&d=1202242017
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=22469

4 Removing Headlights - It's easy once you remove the bumper. 3 bolts, slide it out a little bit so you could disconnect the light wires behind the housing, then you gotta wiggle the headlights to remove it.

5 Taking Headlights Apart This is the hardest part of all - I prefer using a heat gun, it gives you heat where you need it and more control. Adjust to 500F. Heat the corner by the parking light first, use a flat head screw driver to separate the front lens from the housing, then move outward. This way it won't leave tool marks on the housing, except for the part by the parking light. In the beginning the sealant is gonna be very sticky, but as it cools down it won't be as sticky. Wear gloves



Now you have to remove the halogen light shield. The screw is below the bulb holder.


6 Installing Projector - The projector comes with two rubber washers, but you gotta use the small one. I used the big one at first but after screwing the locking ring on, it came in the way of the HID bulb holder, so I had to switch.

[DrivenDreams]

BAD NEWS - It turns out you have to cut 2 bumps that raises from the stock bulb holder to fit the HID holder. The cut doesn't effect the rest of the stock headlights if you ever wanted to go back to stock.


7 Resealing Headlight - I recommend getting a ribbon sealer from autozone for $8, it provides added seal against leak. You gotta stretch it thinner, anywhere between 1/8 -1/4 in. diameter, then slowly applied it into the groove. You also need clamps, I got six and it was enough. I worked in sections, I heated the part by turn signal and worked my way back to parking lights. Get Dust spray and spray it inside of the headlight.


Now mount the HID holder, and dust spray a few times into the HID bulb opening, to get all of the dust particles of the lens.


8 Install the headlights back into the car.

[DrivenDreams]

9 Alignment - The night before my install, I went to the car, turned on the headlights. Using electrical tape, I taped it where the beam was. I was't gonna gonna move or drive the car so it made sense. Use the same technique on a wall or garage door.


Projector alignment - When you screw the projector into the stock housing, align the left corner of the projector upper screw to the right side of the little bump in the upper stock light holder. I did this and my cut-off is perfectly horizontal.


In order to adjust the beam, you gotta get a very long Philips screw driver or do what I did. I put 2 screw drivers into one.

You gotta be Creative to Create a Creation

From what I experienced, Left and Right headlight alignment is gonna be different. On the Passenger side, I had turn the screw driver 11 rounds clockwise but only 4 on Driver side. Now my passenger side high beam is higher than driver side Remember to write it down.


After you're done with everything, feel your heart race the first few seconds you turn your headlights on, and then sudden joy. Go take it for a test drive.

Here are some test with different HID ballasts and HID bulbs
HID Bulb Test
HID Bulb Test Brightness

Please, if you retrofitted your headlights, share your knowledge.

[chuangandrew]

lol, told you that you have trim it.... looks good btw, how long did it take you?

i still think you should've black out some of the stuff in the there, but to each his own....

****s that you're not utilizing the bi-xenon function for the projector... dunno if you have a chance to drive at night yet, but the projector hi-beams are so worth your while....

just tap your solenoid wires and you'll be good to go!

[DrivenDreams]

Originally Posted by chuangandrew

lol, told you that you have trim it.... looks good btw, how long did it take you?

i still think you should've black out some of the stuff in the there, but to each his own....

****s that you're not utilizing the bi-xenon function for the projector... dunno if you have a chance to drive at night yet, but the projector hi-beams are so worth your while....

just tap your solenoid wires and you'll be good to go!

It took me 8 hours, not counting the preparation. I had to start from scratch, mounting ballast and relay. It was my first time. My original plan was to blacked it out, and paint the shroud red, but I realized every body have theirs blacked out. I might tint the side. It does upset me that I can't use high beam but I had to finish before my parents come home, that's why. My parents would freak out if they saw the car in that state.
I did have a chance to drive at night, I loved it. But since we had 2 snow storms this week, everything was coverd in snow and the road were wet. I'm looking forward to driving on interstate tomorrow

[chuangandrew]

lol, props for finishing b4 getting into trouble lol... i actually havn't seen many sedans with the black out housing, but if you like it, then it's fine.

just a word of caution, if you sealed your headlights in warm air, it may condense in the cold air. One way to prevent this was to really blow dry the crap out of the headlights before sealing (removing water).

as long as you can still access your solenoid wires, it should be fairly easy to tap it to the DRLs. literally takes 5-10 min if you know how to solder....

[DrivenDreams]

I sealed my headlights using heat gun inside a 67 F room, and I left it there to cool down. Is been 1 day outside cold weather, I drove around a bit today. Everything seems fine.

[hale88]

what is the different between Mini (D2S) and the H1? beside the bulbs sizes. Is the Mini still easy to install as the H1?

[rfs830]

Thanks for the info. This will help me out alot.

hale88 - D2S is a different connection then the H1.

[inspire08]

Props for great work and write up. The morimoto H1 projector doesnt look proportion with the headlights, big gap around it. You should try the doggie bowl shroud to fill in that massive gap on the headlights, its just me.

Somethings like this>>>>>link http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=28691 Fongaroos and Andrew's headlights

[Aramas]

Looks nice. I agree with andrew, there's not that many blacked out sedan retros. A lot like keeping the chrome for an OEM look.

Another difference between the MH1 and MD2S is their output. Supposedly the MH1's output is better than the MD2S at the moment, even with the revised models. If you use the MD2S, it'll make it easier if you switch retros down the road to better projectors since most OEM projectors take D2S bulbs.

[DrivenDreams]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.
I didn't have enough time to black it out, I had to get it done fast. I might do it after the warranty expires. I actually like the gap, it makes the whole thing look like an eye lol

I was on interstate today, and I noticed that the right side is high or something, it's parallel to the road, but the left was normal. I'm sure that I'm not blinding people on the left side, however whenever the car bounce, the right side would light up all the cars.

Are OEM HID aimed lower than OEM Halogen? or they are the same, 4 inches lower over 25 feet.

[Aramas]

Could've sworn OEM was 2 inches lower than the headlight's height/aiming dot at 25 feet. I know people pretty much aim retros the same and it works out.

Here's a picture of what a cutoff should look like:


Note the overlapping of the two projectors at the steps:


Ideally you want it like that.

Note: Pictures show a S2000 retro with clear lens on a 2008 Altima.

[DrivenDreams]

Yeah, my cut-off overlap like that. I think it's 4 inches lower over 25 feet, correct me if I'm wrong.

But I am not sure if it should be lower or not. After school I'll go behind Walmart and see if my right side are aimed down or not.

[krazyfiend]

very nice post/guide...very useful for when I need to remove my bumper, open up my headlights and install Lance's clear/smoked parking lens options...

thanks!