Accord F23A1 (4 cyl) IACV - how to remove? - Drive Accord Honda Forums

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Old 03-28-2011, 01:12 PM
gotwheels gotwheels is offline
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Accord F23A1 (4 cyl) IACV - how to remove?

Hi, Would someone help educate me on the proper way to remove the IACV (idle air control valve) on the 1998 Accord 4 cylinder vtec engine (F23A1)?

I see it is attached to the intake plenum (correct?), but in a cramped area at the firewall. Yesterday, I cleaned the throttle body, EGR valve, and EGR Passage into the intake plenum (& put in new gaskets). I could not fully remove the intake plenum because of a coolant line coming into the IACV (?) from the rear mid-under side. I was concerned that if I got it removed, that I would not have the room to manipulate and reconnect the line.

I got everything buttoned back up and now have a wandering idle - did I get trash into the IACV during the cleaning or is it failed? The idle is a little over 1,000 and the surging goes from ~1,250 to 1,750 rpm.

I now need to get to the IACV and need your help on how to access and remove it (I guess the trick of how to disconnect/reconnect of the coolant line so I can remove the plenum and then access the IACV if that is the method).

Also, I noticed today while running an erand that my temperature gauge is running at about halfway vs the normal ~ 1/3. I did not bleed the coolant after reassembly of the throttle body - any idea how all of this is related?

I would like to re-tackle the task tomorrow, so any feedback and assistance is appreciated.

Thanks, JIm

(all of the search information of the ERG system and codes [P0401,P1491, P0420] and the input of "fredsvt" has been helpful and appreciated!)
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:23 AM
tcblu tcblu is offline
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if your running hotter now you might have have lost some coolant fluid and now have air bubbles in the cooling system which can cause idle probs.
I would check this 1st and bleed the cooling system.
Air in the system plays havoc with the ECM, since it affects the readings coming from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.

you put in new gaskets,
double check to see if they are tight and not loosing vacuum?
if you took the intake loose and didn't put a new gasket in you may have a leak there.
vaccum leaks affect the idle.
also, certain carb cleaners wil screw up some sensors
make sure you used one that didn't.

the things above can cause idle probs
but your idle surge is exactly what mine did, and rpms went from
1200ish-1700ish just like yours.
i replaced the IACV, it was bad on my 98 accord V6.
but i had to bleed the cooling system to make sure because i was low on fluid.
all I did was replace the starter and add a qt of water to the cooling system and the IACV was out when i started it back up, just like that

anyways...
to remove the IACV on a 4cyl, the haynes manual says:
1-disconnect the electrical connector and hoses from the IAC
2-remove the 2 mounting screws and remove the IACV from the mainfold.
3-installation is the reverse **be sure to use a new O-ring**

hopefully someone more knowledgable will post....
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:52 AM
sodaks2k sodaks2k is offline
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here you go Jim
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...highlight=iacv

How did the EGR cleaning go?
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Old 03-31-2011, 12:36 PM
gotwheels gotwheels is offline
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IACV and EGR System Maintenance

sodaks2k, Thanks for a great thread and IACV reference. tcblu, I appreciate your information!

My issue was a vacuum leak! I was able to diagnose using the propane technique (with care, actually a pretty safe technique using care and caution). I did go back through the Throttle Body and Intake Plenum to assure everything was good. Fastener torques for the TB & IT Plenum are 16 ft. lb.

My access issue with the IACV was that for whatever reason (and this was what initially made my access to the Intake Plenum constrained), the driver's side coolant line on the IAVC was very short with no excess play making access for disconnect very difficult when combined with it not being in a sight line. Also, the OEM clamps on the two coolant lines had two ears interlocked, so this added another removal challenge in such a tight space.

All is good now, the IACV was fine, the idle function works properly, and the clean EGR system returns a little of the "spunk"!

These two threads were extremely helpful to anyone performing these tasks: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=31865 and http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=20714

Thanks to all and to this site for the assistance and education. Next tasks on the horizon are a valve adjustment and a timing belt/water pump service.

Regards to all!
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:20 PM
sodaks2k sodaks2k is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotwheels View Post
Next tasks on the horizon are a valve adjustment and a timing belt/water pump service.
Do you need a link for DIY valve adjustment?
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Old 04-03-2011, 08:14 AM
tcblu tcblu is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotwheels View Post
My issue was a vacuum leak! I was able to diagnose using the propane technique (with care, actually a pretty safe technique using care and caution).

My access issue with the IACV was that for whatever reason (and this was what initially made my access to the Intake Plenum constrained), the driver's side coolant line on the IAVC was very short with no excess play making access for disconnect very difficult when combined with it not being in a sight line. Also, the OEM clamps on the two coolant lines had two ears interlocked, so this added another removal challenge in such a tight space.
good to hear it was something minor GW, and not the $100+ aicv
I'm curious, where was your vac leak at?



Ive been convinced for years if the engineers had to actually work on what they designed life would be A LOT easier for all of us that have to work under the hood
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:05 PM
gotwheels gotwheels is offline
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tcblu, vacuum leak was a bad piece of tubing - once located, an easy fix.

sodaks2k, Thanks - I am interested in the DIY valve adjustment thread. Does anyone use any of the more specialty type tools such as the tappet adjuster wrench/screwdriver combination and the offset feeler gauges with holder?

Also, is there a thread that outlines any other non-standard PMs (with oil/filter type changes a regular standard type PM) such as the TB cleaning, ERG system maintenance, valve adjustment, etc.?

Thanks to all, Jim
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:36 PM
sodaks2k sodaks2k is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotwheels View Post
sodaks2k, Thanks - I am interested in the DIY valve adjustment thread. Does anyone use any of the more specialty type tools such as the tappet adjuster wrench/screwdriver
In the past I have only used the "regular" tools required to perform a valve adjustment.

Pm sent.
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Old 04-14-2011, 06:10 AM
blue_cheese blue_cheese is offline
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Hah!

I just had the same issue, after cleaning the IACV and the throttlebody I had the wondering idle. It was an air leak in the throttlebody gasket. The original gasket was so tightly mashed in that it was very difficult to clean out 100% from around the bolt areas. What I thought was insignificant resedue ended up compromising the seal of the new gasket and the idle was messed up (as well as the drive, felt like the throttle was always slightly open). Car even started throwing a CEL code, and jerking when driving at ~1.5K RPM.

Disassembling everything and completely cleaning (including lightly sanding) the contact surface on both the throttlebody and intake manifold, and replacing the replacement gasket solved the problem.

By the way, I found that getting to the IACV is a lot easier with the throttle body out. This way you can disconnect the coolant hoses much easier since the short one is the one connecting the throttlebody to the IACV, and you gain quite a bit of working room to fit a wrench with a 10mm socket necessary to remove the 2 bolts on the IACV.

Live and learn I guess, I was pretty amazed how such a minor thing ($4 gasket) could have such an animated effect on the drive. If i didn't know any better that the problem must have been in the area i was working on, I would think that there was some severe issue with the car and it's time for the scrapyard.
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:14 AM
qwerty66 qwerty66 is offline
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Smile p0505 code

hi my name is jason and i have a 1998 honda accord lx i recently got a p0505 iac code. my car is idling funny and acts like it wants to cut off what does this mean?
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