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  #1  
Old 05-13-2006, 11:12 AM
RDD RDD is offline
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upgrade wheels first or shocks/springs first?

I'm considering lowering my sedan a little bit but am also considering new wheels (either 17's or 18's). Not sure if I can do both of these at the same time so I was wondering if doing one before the other is recommended. Also, is an alignment necessary after going up wheel sizes? I've heard a new alignment is necessary after getting a car lowered.
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Old 05-13-2006, 06:26 PM
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I think you should do it at the same time and then get an alignment. It would take a lot of guess work out of the whole equation. As far as I know, you don't NEED to get one after new wheels, but a lot of places recommend it after new tires because that's the only time the general public would bother to do it.
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:08 AM
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I reccommend getting new shocks/springs before getting new tires even if you can get both at the same time. You can try out the new suspension and see if you can take the extra shock of the thinner/ stiffer sidewalls of a lower profile tire before you make your final decision.

Like Ben said, You need an alignment after the suspension mod because it changes the toe in and camber (the wheels will point and tilt towards the center of the car). You don't need to get an alignment after you change the wheels since they don't change the suspension geometry.
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:23 AM
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i prefer to increase grip over increasing center of gravity and anti roll features.

i therefore recommend plus sizing the width of your tires.

i.e 215 to 235.

once youve increased grip go ahead and then do suspension. that way you arent limited by the tires anymore.
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:49 PM
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Do wheels first. It would look funny if you lowered your car on stock wheels and tires
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Old 05-15-2006, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CometVR4
Do wheels first. It would look funny if you lowered your car on stock wheels and tires
What do you think would look more ridiculous? A lowered car on stock rims or a car with 17"/18" wheels and a SUV suspension? I'd rather have the stockers.

IMO, if I'm on a budget, I'd rather do the suspension first since you get a bigger impact on handling than stickier tires. You'll also get a quicker engine response and less nose dive during braking. You can lower the car and run the stock tires until you save up enough money for the plus sized wheel/ tires. Whereas if you did the wheel/tire upgrade first, you'll probably need new tires by the time you save up enough for the suspension.
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Old 05-15-2006, 02:20 PM
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yeah, i think the lowered on stock look is perfectly fine, whereas rims + stock suspension looks really bad.
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Old 05-15-2006, 04:26 PM
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Well, everyone's got an opinion - so listen to mine

I went wheels/tires after installing the TL rear sway (17mm) and V6 6SPD tower brace up front. The sway/tower brace made a big difference, but the stock rubber sucked big time. Now with 17's and better sneakers it all came together. I'll lower it sooner or later...car's only 6 months old and I'm not sure I'm ready to mess around with the warranty for the sake of (largely) cosmetics. Sure, the handling will kick up another notch, but right now she really sticks to the road nicely.

If you lower, it involves coilovers or springs/shocks. Neither is cheap (don't cheap out on these parts - not worth it). The setup I want will drain my retirement fund to the tune of 7 or 8 Franklins plus allignment. Then I get to void my warranty for anything suspension and possibly drive train related. Hense my hesitation....
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Old 05-19-2006, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windchimp
Well, everyone's got an opinion - so listen to mine

I went wheels/tires after installing the TL rear sway (17mm) and V6 6SPD tower brace up front. The sway/tower brace made a big difference, but the stock rubber sucked big time. Now with 17's and better sneakers it all came together. I'll lower it sooner or later...car's only 6 months old and I'm not sure I'm ready to mess around with the warranty for the sake of (largely) cosmetics. Sure, the handling will kick up another notch, but right now she really sticks to the road nicely.

If you lower, it involves coilovers or springs/shocks. Neither is cheap (don't cheap out on these parts - not worth it). The setup I want will drain my retirement fund to the tune of 7 or 8 Franklins plus allignment. Then I get to void my warranty for anything suspension and possibly drive train related. Hense my hesitation....
Ditto this for me except for the strut tower brace.

I definitely need a drop to do my 18" Volk GTU's some justice, but I feel the same as you do....
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Old 05-24-2006, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OwAce
i prefer to increase grip over increasing center of gravity and anti roll features.

i therefore recommend plus sizing the width of your tires.

i.e 215 to 235.

once youve increased grip go ahead and then do suspension. that way you arent limited by the tires anymore.
silly Oface, you are just saying that because you can't be dropped in the city


Quote:
Originally Posted by CometVR4
Do wheels first. It would look funny if you lowered your car on stock wheels and tires
nah, stock wheels, slamed with powerslots behind them look sexy
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Old 05-24-2006, 10:22 AM
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Conundrum Conundrum is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CometVR4
Do wheels first. It would look funny if you lowered your car on stock wheels and tires
I've got my stock rims and tires with the HFP sports suspenion package and it looks fine to me (better than at the stock ride height). My car came with 17s, so maybe the 2005 sedan was different (I can't remember but I think it may have only had 16s on it).
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