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Old 10-18-2011, 11:08 PM
FlashPoint FlashPoint is offline
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1996 Honda Accord Will Not Start - Seriously

The car stopped running while exiting the freeway and will not start again. The headlights are bright when on/starter makes noise/fuel pump charges/spark plugs arc. There was oil on the top side of the spark plugs so I replaced the valve gasket.

Things I have tried:
Jumper cables
New Dist/Rotor
New Spark Plugs
New Cables
New Valve Gasket

I feel suction when removing the air intake from the intake manifold and trying to start it. I tried to shoot some b-12 in the manifold to lead me to a bad fuel pump or filter but it still will not start ...wondering if that b-12 trick works with FI.

I have heard that it could be a PGM F1 relay that controls the fuel injection and pump and is notorious for going out. I hope someone is able to help. Thanks
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:29 AM
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SatinSilver SatinSilver is offline
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SERIOUSLY? No friggin way. Anywoo take to a good repair shop since you did all the basic things. I'm guessing battery that's deader than a doornail. Plop a new one in there. Or take it out and have it tested for free at autozone or advance auto.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:47 AM
accordh22a accordh22a is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SatinSilver View Post
SERIOUSLY? No friggin way. Anywoo take to a good repair shop since you did all the basic things. I'm guessing battery that's deader than a doornail. Plop a new one in there. Or take it out and have it tested for free at autozone or advance auto.
You're an idiot. It's not going to be the battery because the car is turning over. Your sarcastic "seriously? no friggin way." comment pissed me off. Also he has not done all of the basic things.

Check fuse's first then....

Check to make sure there is fuel getting to the injectors. If you have spark and the car is turning over then you are probably not getting fuel. turn your key to the ACC if you hear the pump you are good there, Next make sure there is fuel pressure at the fuel rail. There is a small but on the top of the fuel line where it connects to the fuel rail. Loosen that screw. If you hear a suction or see fuel then you are getting fuel to the rail. That would then lead to check power to the injectors. If you are getting power to the injectors then you might have bad injectors.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by accordh22a View Post
You're an idiot. It's not going to be the battery because the car is turning over. Your sarcastic "seriously? no friggin way." comment pissed me off. Also he has not done all of the basic things.
I was responding to the thread title numbnut! DUH!
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:57 PM
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SatinSilver - No offense but I can rebuild the motor if necessary (no repair shop required). Why would it be the battery? Nevermind, just do everyone a favor and don't comment on this post anymore. I am really not trying to be mean and thank you for trying to help, but it doesn't make any sense.

accordh22a - I took the valve cover back off again to inspect the timing belt and valve movement. The timing belt looks fine and the valves seem to move correctly.

I thought spraying b-12 into the intake manifold would rule out fuel? The manifold runners are kind of long and maybe it's not working like it should. I will test the fuel rail tomorrow. I will also check continuity to the injectors.

Other things:
I need to borrow a compression gauge. BUT! the exhaust has back pressure when trying to crank. Something I did not expect was when pulling the valve to intake vacuum line (which I believe is to pull a vacuum on the valve cover) there was positive pressure quite a bit with the throttle shut.... .

-Thanks again
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:55 AM
accordh22a accordh22a is offline
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the b12 alone may not be enough to start the car. from what I have seen there has been at least some fuel entering the combustion chamber.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:57 PM
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1. It's not the fuel pump. Removed banjo and I get flow during acc ignition. The flow is steady but not spraying. I get flow aft of the regulator rather quickly however. Not sure how long it takes to pressurize. I am ruling out injectors unless there is a fuse or relay for all of them.


2. I ran across this video
, if the link does not show search 96 Honda accord 4cyl won't start on the popular video site these days. This honda sounds the same. Which ****s if the valves are truly fuc .. well you know the rest of that. What is weird is that the timing belt did not pop or snap. It is still on the car with all teeth and rotates when trying to crank the motor. So my question would be what caused the timing to fail in the first place? Tensioner? I guess I need to pull of the upper and lower cover and take a peak behind the oz curtain.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:31 AM
accordh22a accordh22a is offline
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Timing belts can skip a few teeth from time to time. I dont see that happening unless you were hammering on the car. Check the timing belt tensioner and check your timing marks at TDC.
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:27 PM
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I am not sure of the driving habbits.. not my car. I took the top timing belt cover off and was able to feel tension on both sides of the cam gear. It did feel less tense on the rear side that doesn't have the tensioner. I don't have the tools to get the crank shaft pulley off to check the tic marks and make sure the timing is good. I did replace the main relay to see if it made and diffence and it led to new symptoms.

Wanted symptoms - the fuel injectors are firing off. One thing to learn from this thread is that the main relay controls the fuel pump and the fuel injection and one can go out while the other one may work!

Unwanted symptoms - I am now getting a fuel mist blowback all the way through the intake to were it starts near the radiator. The only thing that I think could make this happen is the timing. I hope there is not a bent valve (I don't hear any tapping). I believe the timing slipped when the main relay went out. Loss of fuel jolted the belt maybe ... I am just glad it didn't run lean and blow up. The only thing left to do is get more tools to get a better look at timing.
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