failed emissions test, no cel, report included

[buffstylez]

Hi guys, been driving the accord for a few months now without any issues but it was time for the e-test. It failed unfortunately. This for a 2003 accord 2.4
Took care of recent cels by replacing the o2 sensors. Had to get a used oem secondary sensor as the new replacement was not CA compatible!?!

Anyways the numbers from the test are as follows:
ASM2525 test
HC ppm limit 66 reading 169 fail
co% limit .37 reading .49 fail
NO ppm limit 505 reading 1994!! fail

curb idle test
HC ppm limit 150 reading 244 fail
co% limit .70 reading .38 pass
NO ppm n/a

So no cel lights, the o2 sensors have been taken care of, the spark plugs are new. I havent added any additives just took the car to get the test after the secondary o2 was replaced. The car running on regular gas.
Whats with the high NO ppm reading? Am i looking at a new cat?
Would appreciate your suggestions.

[Joeggernaut]

I am not entirely sure what those numbers mean but from past experiences when you reset/clear a cel code whether you addressed the problem or not you have to run the car enough for the code to cycle through the system say 60 miles or so. Most inspection shops will tell you this and have this policy. This is to prevent people from clearing codes right before inspection to pass.

[DreaminAccord]

^ x2 - it is called a "Drive cycle". You can look up specific cars to see exactly what needs done. For instance, I remember when my Audi kept throwing a code for the Torque Converter and right before inspection I did exactly what the drive cycle needed, it passed through each of the phases in about 15 minutes and I passed PA inspection/emissions (one of the toughest state inspections to pass). It can consist of things such as idle for 5 minutes from an absolute cold start, 0-50mph & stay at 50mph for at least 4 miles x2, braking/decel from 40mph to a stop (once or twice I can't remember), etc. It allows your ECU to verify that each function is working properly. If the code is going to come back, most likely it will occur during the drive cycle.

OP, if you have an OBD II scanner, after hooking it up, see if any of the 7-8 phases are still blinking. If they are, the car has not completed that phase of the drive cycle yet. Good luck & keep us posted!

[buffstylez]

Hey, thanks for the feedback. I have the scanner and I didnt clear the codes using it. I just unplugged the battery for a bit.
Anyways I will update if any codes show after driving around for a bit.

[DreaminAccord]

OP, Here is some good information. The OP was driving a 2002 but for your '03 it should be exactly the same: Honda Drive Cycle

P.S. I just checked the owner's manual - it is listed in there under the Emissions section. G'luck!

[2006accord4]

Amazon

Amazon

Maybe get one of these USB OBD2 things and connect it to a laptop. It might help to see if anything is not running correctly.

[TonyWare]

Looking at the numbers, it looks like your engine is a bit dirty. It needs a good de-carbonizing.

1. Run a spray carbon cleaner through the throttle body,
2. change the oil,
3. with a nearly empty gas tank add a bottle of fuel cleaner,
4. fill it up with at least 91 octane,
5. go for a long 2 hour drive,
6. decelerate in neutral so that you won't get more carb deposits,
7. go re-do the test with a fully warmed up engine.

[Keystone]

It might not be a bad idea to take a look at your air filter.

[drozzin]

Interestingly enough in our state (CT) emission test is not performed other then reading OBD info from the car.
Here it's look like the car went to the actual smog test thru the tailpipe probe.

[buffstylez]

Hey all and thanks for your feedback. Well after driving around to go through the differe t drive cycles, the cel came on. Checked the code and I became another victim of the p0420 code.first time getting this code so now it's back to the drawing board. After some reading I guess the first focus would be looking at the EGR?
I really hope this won't lead to a new cat.

[TonyWare]

It may be a bit of work but if you can unbolt the rear cylinder bank O2 sensor (on top of the rear cat) and throw a flash light in there to see if there is any distortion on the "honey bee comb" surface of the cat inside.

The proper procedure to determine if indeed the cat has collapsed is to reset the engine light, then decelerate for a couple of drive cycles (preferably from highway speeds at an off ramp) and then, on a new drive cycle, drive on a highway at a constant speed of 60 or so for a few minutes. That will trigger the right conditions for the non-continuous emissions test to start and if the ECU sees abnormal O2 readings it will set the codes. If not, then it may be a number of other things. But based on my experience with these engines when the P0420 shows up, it is the cat that has gone to the dogs

Hope that helps.

[Joeggernaut]

^x2. Could be a cat, vacuum leak, or exhaust leak. If you have a tiny crack in the manifold it could cause a vacuum leak and throw off the egr/cat. Could be a number of things. Easy way to check for vacuum leak if you dont have the right tools is to use some seafoam as it makes a cloud of smoke and will leak through any cracks or vacuum leaks.

[2006accord4]

Just make sure you don't kill yourself while under the car inhaling all those fumes =)

[buffstylez]

So i reset the engine light and got a chance to do a few drive cycles to throw off the cat code. It did come back. Guess my cat is bad.
So now the problem is that this vehicle is a ulev vehicle, that supposedly needs a California emissions standard cat. Obviously the price of these are almost double than the regular.
Do i really need one like this to get the CEL off and pass emissions?

[buffstylez]

I found a good deal for a direct fit OBD II heavy duty catalytic converter, it is emission pass guarantee and engine light off guarantee but not the California standard. Would something like this work in my case? Appreciate all your help.