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#1
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How to: Permanently 'on' console 12V socket.
Why: Because I'd like my Nexus 7 to be able to stay running 24/7 in the car without running out of batteries over the weekend when it isn't driven. Same with my dash cam Motorola Droid that never leaves the car.
Difficulty: About 5 minutes looking at the service manual schematic, 5 minutes with a multimeter, 5 minutes with a paper clip + buttoning back up. No tools required except a good grip. Dangers: Could run battery down...doubt it's an issue with charging a 4200 mAh battery or powering a few LED's. I've left my laser jammer control box running for 3 days (it has a few LED's) and the car started right up. I did the measurement for fun: tablet + Droid (both charging on 2.1 A charger) + radar detector use 850 mA. The tiny 51R battery in the LX has a rating of 51 Ah, assuming you need 1/2 of the battery to start, you have 30 hours of run time before you need to start the car or unplug stuff. Keep in mind that 850 mA is peak usage, since the devices will be charged at some point and then draw much less power. Future Idea: Might put a switch on it so I can turn the socket on/off. We'll see if I have any "close calls" with the car not wanting to start. ------------------ Step 1: Pop off the under-steering wheel trim. Basically start at the bottom left corner, pull until the clips pop off. Then pop the left side, then pop the right side. You'll think you're about to break something with how hard you're pulling, but don't worry. Step 2: You're looking at the under dash fuse/relay box. Find the relay top middle labeled OMRON. It's black. (See pics). I suggest using some mechanic's gloves with coated fingers to get enough grip to pull it out. It's in quite stiff. I like how the power carrying prongs are copper. Step 3: There's "neater/more professional" ways of doing this, but find a way to jumper the 2 right prongs together. The left prong is the HOT side connected to 12V (it is fused already). A paper clip seems to work well and have good tension to not fall out. Step 4: Put the trim back on and find someplace safe to store the relay. -------------------------- (Lord the S3 has a sweet camera...the last image you can see no keys in the ignition and there's a green LED from my radar detector's control box) ![]() ![]() ![]() free picture hosting
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2012 Accord LX AT Sdn Taffeta White - "The Sleeper Speeder" - Stock Appearance - DYNO RESULTS && 127 MPH TOP SPEED RUN ---- Takeda SRI Ported Intake Runner RV6 PCD Underdrive Pulley Set Weapon-r i-Throttle ---- UR Full Chassis Kit + 22mm Sway Bar (7 pieces) Akebono Performance Pads Group 24F (V6) Battery Upgrade ---- RX65 Radar Detector || Blinder HP-905 Laser Jammer || Nexus 7 tablet + Scantool MX|| Dash Cam || License Plate Flipper || LED Brake Lights || Weathertech mats ---- |
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#2
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Isn't the relay you removed important?
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2008 Honda Accord LX-P Sedan Tafeta White
Squirrels ...............nature's speed bump |
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#3
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Sweet! Thanks for the info, I've always wanted the 12V socket to be on without the car being on.
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#4
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Seems like there should be a more elegant way than a paperclip. That really can't be a good to have just hanging out there with voltage going through it.
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2011 Accord EX-L (A5, Polished Metal Metallic) - Daily Driver 2001 Mustang GT (A4, Mineral Grey, factory Bullitt wheels, Flowmasters, CAI) - Weekend Cruiser |
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#5
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According to the serivce manual, that relay is only for the center console 12v socket. The relay coil is (obviously) connected to the ignition ACC switch (so when the key is turned to ACC the relay coil connects to 12V and closes the contacts). The relay contacts are only connected to that 12V socket....nothing else. The fact there's a 15A fuse before the relay would indicate this as well (15*12V = 180W which is a reasonable fuse for that socket). I also searched the entire service manual for what that relay is called (front console socket relay something or other), just to make sure Honda wasn't only showing part of the circuit and it really is used somewhere else, and only matches were for the 12v socket.
I could use some 20 awg wire (solid?) and strip a small piece that wouldn't stick out at all. But when I was "testing" with the paper clip I was like "seems pretty solid". You're correct that in general it's not good to have voltage hanging out like that, but if it shorts to anything the fuse will pop, and everything under there is insulated anyways.
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2012 Accord LX AT Sdn Taffeta White - "The Sleeper Speeder" - Stock Appearance - DYNO RESULTS && 127 MPH TOP SPEED RUN ---- Takeda SRI Ported Intake Runner RV6 PCD Underdrive Pulley Set Weapon-r i-Throttle ---- UR Full Chassis Kit + 22mm Sway Bar (7 pieces) Akebono Performance Pads Group 24F (V6) Battery Upgrade ---- RX65 Radar Detector || Blinder HP-905 Laser Jammer || Nexus 7 tablet + Scantool MX|| Dash Cam || License Plate Flipper || LED Brake Lights || Weathertech mats ---- |
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#6
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wow this is awesome, i really wanted a way to do this lol thanks so much
anybody else try this out? Ya i wanna try doing it without exposing the paperclip...what about covering it up with black tape or just getting something from the store like a open circuit fuse |
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#7
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and this should be either stickied or put in the DIY thanks man!
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#8
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Good to know,just get two spade spade terminals and crimp a #16 wire so you don't fry the relay socket due to a lose contact if you ever plug a large load into the accessory socket.The socket has to have a tight connection and thats why the relay is so hard to remove.You have a 10a draw possible there
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#9
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So this has made all the sockets in your car always on?
Edit: Nevermind, just read the part where you said it's only for the center console.
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2003 LX Sedan, i4 + Automatic. 150K and counting. |
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#10
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awesome tut
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#11
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What's with the swamp monster glove?
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#12
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Quote:
Ansell Hyflex 11-801....foam nitrile dipped glove. I always wear gloves whenever I'm doing anything on my car or anything involving a pocket knife/box cutter. Gives a lot more grip, provides some cushioning, and protects my hand from scrapes and cuts. And it lets me touch hot stuff without immediately getting burned.
__________________
2012 Accord LX AT Sdn Taffeta White - "The Sleeper Speeder" - Stock Appearance - DYNO RESULTS && 127 MPH TOP SPEED RUN ---- Takeda SRI Ported Intake Runner RV6 PCD Underdrive Pulley Set Weapon-r i-Throttle ---- UR Full Chassis Kit + 22mm Sway Bar (7 pieces) Akebono Performance Pads Group 24F (V6) Battery Upgrade ---- RX65 Radar Detector || Blinder HP-905 Laser Jammer || Nexus 7 tablet + Scantool MX|| Dash Cam || License Plate Flipper || LED Brake Lights || Weathertech mats ---- |
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#13
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Was near a Home Depot so I went ahead and bought some "male disconnects" which basically look like:
![]() My HD didn't sell the ones that didn't have plastic around them, so I'll have to separate the metal from the plastic with 2 pliers and some muscle. Then I'll solder some 22 awg solid wire in (I prefer solder over crimp and sometimes do both for "must work" connections). I'll post pics of my success/failure. Note: At this point this is crossing from "do it yourself in 5 minutes with household materials" to "you'll need tools".
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2012 Accord LX AT Sdn Taffeta White - "The Sleeper Speeder" - Stock Appearance - DYNO RESULTS && 127 MPH TOP SPEED RUN ---- Takeda SRI Ported Intake Runner RV6 PCD Underdrive Pulley Set Weapon-r i-Throttle ---- UR Full Chassis Kit + 22mm Sway Bar (7 pieces) Akebono Performance Pads Group 24F (V6) Battery Upgrade ---- RX65 Radar Detector || Blinder HP-905 Laser Jammer || Nexus 7 tablet + Scantool MX|| Dash Cam || License Plate Flipper || LED Brake Lights || Weathertech mats ---- |
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#14
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Ok job done and looks much more professional than a paperclip (I'm an electrical engineer so I kinda have to set a good example
). I used 22 awg wire...which is more than sufficient to handle 15A of current (past that the fuse will pop) (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/America...AWG_wire_sizes).![]() ![]() ![]() images
__________________
2012 Accord LX AT Sdn Taffeta White - "The Sleeper Speeder" - Stock Appearance - DYNO RESULTS && 127 MPH TOP SPEED RUN ---- Takeda SRI Ported Intake Runner RV6 PCD Underdrive Pulley Set Weapon-r i-Throttle ---- UR Full Chassis Kit + 22mm Sway Bar (7 pieces) Akebono Performance Pads Group 24F (V6) Battery Upgrade ---- RX65 Radar Detector || Blinder HP-905 Laser Jammer || Nexus 7 tablet + Scantool MX|| Dash Cam || License Plate Flipper || LED Brake Lights || Weathertech mats ---- |
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