honda accord, 16" wheels vs 18" wheels

[RyanAccord]

I have been researching the pros and cons for switching from 16" vs 18" wheels. I would like to know what your opinions are on the PROS and CONS of going bigger in wheels size.

This is a Tire Size Comparison Chart comparing the wheels/tires I am considering upgrading to:



Thanks

[namegoeshere]

Is there a question?

[RyanAccord]

Originally Posted by namegoeshere

Is there a question?

Updated OP.

but basically want to know 2 things:
1. Pros / Cons of going bigger wheel?
2. Which size tire for 18" wheel? (width, height, etc)

[Drew03Accord]

Originally Posted by RyanAccord

I have been researching the pros and cons for switching from 16" vs 18" wheels. I would like to know what your opinions are on the PROS and CONS of going bigger in wheels size.

This is a Tire Size Comparison Chart comparing the wheels/tires I am considering upgrading to:



Thanks

Here... I speak from experience.

PROS:

• Car will look MUCH better (or worse depending on your taste in wheels)
• Increase in handling and traction due to wider tire patch and unidirectional tire tread (somewhat mitigated by extra weight)
• Slight increase in car value (or decrease depending on taste)

CONS:

• EXPENSIVE!!! Tires and wheels MUCH more expensive in 18" (mostly Z rated tires selection in this size)
• Decreased gas mileage (increase in unsprung weight and rotational mass)
• High possibility of ending up with bent wheels (you lose steel wheel strength vs weaker alloys on low profile wheels)
• Very few bi-directional tires available in 18" (limited rotating)
• Tires wear faster due to being uni-directional (no cross rotating)
• Harsher ride and heavier feel to car
• Throws off speedometer (diameter dependent)
• False reading on Odometer (diameter dependent)
• Sharp increase in road noise (can't stress this enough)
• Tires may rub, necessitating lower profile or fender rolling
• Aftermarket wheels harder to balance properly
• Attracts thieves
• May attract cops (depending on taste)

[namegoeshere]

Originally Posted by RyanAccord

1. Pros / Cons of going bigger wheel?

That all depends on the wheel, its width, and offset.

Based on my observations, the majority of people who move up to larger wheels do so mainly for looks. They don't put too much thought into the weight of the wheel or its width or offset.

If the 18" wheel you're considering is heavier than your stock wheel, it can/will reduce your MPG. How much? Depends on several things.

If the 18" wheel you're considering has a very low offset (Hella flush ), you'll change the scrub radius. The lower the offset, the more positive the scrub radius can be/will be, which means a possible increase in torque steer.

A very low offset wheel can put more stress and wear on bearings and other components.

If the wheel is light/lighter than stock, not much of a noticeable difference with MPG.

If the wheel is wider, you may notice an improvement in stability, traction, etc. (Depends on tire too).

Originally Posted by RyanAccord

2. Which size tire for 18" wheel? (width, height, etc)

Depends on width of wheel.

245 tire would ideally be for a 9" wide wheel, but would also work on 8.5" or 9.5". If stretched, would also work on 10" or 10.5"

[namegoeshere]

Originally Posted by Drew03Accord

CONS:

• Decreased gas mileage (increase in unsprung weight and rotational mass)

Depends on weight and width of wheel... but generally true for most people.

Originally Posted by Drew03Accord

CONS:

• High possibility of ending up with bent wheels (steel wheel strength vs weaker alloys on low profile wheels)

Forged wheels. Problem solved.

Originally Posted by Drew03Accord

CONS:

• Tires wear faster due to being uni-directional (no cross rotating)
• Aftermarket wheels harder to balance properly

I have never noticed this.

A solution to cross rotating uni-directional tires would be to unmount tire, flip it, and remount.

Originally Posted by Drew03Accord

CONS:

• Tires may rub, necessitating lower profile or fender rolling

Only if you're trying to be Hella flush

[Drew03Accord]

Okay....

Depends on weight and width of wheel... but generally true for most people.

So you agree? Not just the wheel, tires are heavier too.


Forged wheels. Problem solved.

You say that so matter-of-factly. You're right, if money is no object. They are roughly 3x as expensive as cast. I have a bent to hell set of forged 18" sitting in my garage right now.


I never noticed this.

A solution to cross rotating uni-directional tires would be to unmount tire, flip it, and remount.

You're not aware that limited rotation wears out tires faster? Yeah, you can pay for remounting each time but it's cheaper just to not do that and buy new tires when they wear out faster. That's unless you happen to have mounting and balancing machines in your garage.



Only if you're trying to be Hella flush

Or traveling with a full load.

[mobiless2]

What will the width of wheel be? Are you lowered or planning to lower?

MPG will decrease slightly. Traction will increase. Noise will depend on tires, i'm running Hankook Ventus V12 Evo and don't find excessive noise compared to original size.

[Wazari]

All of the above posts have merit. MPG difference is probably negligible. Forged wheels doesn't mean stronger. Forged wheels are usually much thinner for weight savings and are expensive. Forged wheels are not out there to be bent resistent but to meet TUV, JWL, etc standards in a lighter, thinner rim than a cast wheel meeting those standards. If anything, cast wheels are more bend resistant than a forge wheel but more prone to cracking under stress and abuse. I have bent many a forged rims and most of the time they were able to be repaired. You really can't repair a cast wheel. I did work for a wheel distributor in my past life.

Also 18' tires are becoming more common place so costs have come down and choices have increased. There are now 18" tires with 500 to 700 wear ratings so wear should not be an issue. You can also buy 245-40 x 18 tires for less than $100 each.

You will trade off comfort for handling. Make sure fitment is not an issue..

[Aviography]

When moving to larger wheels for looks, chances are the overall diameter of the tires are increased too, which (generally) means a loss of performance since you are unfavorably changing the gear ratio, this is why Auto-X racers would actually change to a smaller diameter wheel/tire combination to gain better acceleration.

Now if you go from a heavy OEM steel rim and basic all-season tires to a larger but much lighter forged magnisium alloy rim and sticky high performance tires, then you may actually gain accleration performance from the reduced rotational inertia which the engine will have easier time to overcome, and better traction during launch rather than hopelessy spinning the tires.

As you can see there are a number of variables and conditions when you are attempting to justify the pros and cons between larger or smaller diameter wheels/tires combination.

[RyanAccord]

Thanks a lot for all the posts on this thread guys. THis is EXACTLY what i was looking for. ... I wanted some real everyday practical oppinions. .. Ofcourse there's the looks factor.

now, i don't have any plans to lower, so the "hella flush" (though i find the phrase insanely funny) isn't my goal. I'm older now, been there done that. now i want stock, but like a little customization. i want the ability to go back to stock easily.

interestingly , befor i posted this thread; everything i read was going to 18's is going to have far more cons than pros. worse MPG, heavier, rougher ride, etc...


now, part of the equation that i am concerned about is: the wheels i have on are actually pilot wheels. (didn't realize when i bought it, but know now). i worry that these 16s are heavier than stock EX wheels. so i was thinking some lighter 18 wheels with a as meaty tire as can fit would be about the same weight or lighter.


but the more i research , the more i think i should just focus on some good tires, and not be concerned with changing the look of the wheels. ... if i really want to change the look (temporarily) i could do some plasti dip with white or black or gun metal colors.


thanks again for the info so far. i really appreciate it!

[namegoeshere]

Originally Posted by Drew03Accord

So you agree? Not just the wheel, tires are heavier too.

Yes, I'm saying I agree.

Originally Posted by Drew03Accord

You say that so matter-of-factly. You're right, if money is no object. They are roughly 3x as expensive as cast. I have a bent to hell set of forged 18" sitting in my garage right now.

I know that no wheel is indestructible, including forged wheels. I was just suggesting forged wheels as an option to your "steel wheel strength vs weaker alloys" statement.

Originally Posted by Drew03Accord

You're not aware that limited rotation wears out tires faster?

I did not say I wasn't aware of this. I said I have never noticed (i.e. experienced) this in the almost 20 years of driving and only rotating tires front to back. But YMMV however.

I'm not arguing with you. I'm just sharing what my experience has been just like you are sharing yours.

[Dan]

Ryan, this article answers all your questions

http://www.caranddriver.com/features...d-tires-tested

[BLCKFLSH]

To me, form follows function. In other words, I'm not going to go with a bigger wheel, just because it might look a little better. There are too many cons with larger wheels. As long as I'm not sporting hubcaps, the wheels only need to look decent. The stock wheels look plenty good enough.
Do I think some other wheels would look better? Sure, you bet. I like the ones in the picture below. That's just not a good enough reason, IMO, to spend the money, when it will do nothing to improve how the car drives/rides.

[accordex-lv6]

Originally Posted by Drew03Accord

Here... I speak from experience.

PROS:

• Car will look MUCH better (or worse depending on your taste in wheels)
• Increase in handling and traction due to wider tire patch and unidirectional tire tread (somewhat mitigated by extra weight)
• Slight increase in car value (or decrease depending on taste)

CONS:

• EXPENSIVE!!! Tires and wheels MUCH more expensive in 18" (mostly Z rated tires selection in this size)
• Decreased gas mileage (increase in unsprung weight and rotational mass)
• High possibility of ending up with bent wheels (you lose steel wheel strength vs weaker alloys on low profile wheels)
• Very few bi-directional tires available in 18" (limited rotating)
• Tires wear faster due to being uni-directional (no cross rotating)
• Harsher ride and heavier feel to car
• Throws off speedometer (diameter dependent)
• False reading on Odometer (diameter dependent)
• Sharp increase in road noise (can't stress this enough)
• Tires may rub, necessitating lower profile or fender rolling
• Aftermarket wheels harder to balance properly
• Attracts thieves
• May attract cops (depending on taste)

"EXPENSIVE!!! Tires and wheels MUCH more expensive in 18" (mostly Z rated tires selection in this size)"
This is true! I Agree 100%

"Decreased gas mileage (increase in unsprung weight and rotational mass"
I disagree as it depends on the wheel of choice, I have 19" Acura RDX wheels and they have not changed my MPG at all. I have taken a major road trip and averaged 29-31MPG and my city driving MPG seems to have gone UP

"High possibility of ending up with bent wheels (you lose steel wheel strength vs weaker alloys on low profile wheels"
As the other dude said - "Forged problem solved"

"Tires wear faster due to being uni-directional (no cross rotating)"
Disagree - my tires are 40K tires and have almost 30K on them now and look just as they did brand new (which reminds me, time to rotate, but yes front to back not criss-cross)

"Harsher ride and heavier feel to car"
235/35/19 - Is my tire size and I must say there is no real change in ride quality and seems to be even more smooth (maybe I had really crappy tires before)

"Throws off speedometer (diameter dependent)"
Not true, I drive through River Oaks on my way to work and there is a sign that the speed limit is 35 and there is a speed detector on the sign that will flash when you are 1mph or more above that posted speed limit, and it is always spot on with my speedometer.

"False reading on Odometer (diameter dependent)"
Can't really say here, but if it is reducing my mileage GREAT! For two main reasons, they car will appear to have less miles than it actually does, and that would mean I'm getting 40MPG hwy depending on the fluctuation. I clock my mileage according to fill up to fill up. City MPG always brings me to 375 miles/tank and I always am barely able to squeeze in 14 gal. so from 14 gal to 14 gal thats 26mpg City!

"Sharp increase in road noise (can't stress this enough)"
Again, not true, this is dependent on tire brand and style, tread pattern, and tire function. I have an all season high performance Z rated tire that actually decreased my road noise significantly from my 205/50/17's that I had on as stock.

"Aftermarket wheels harder to balance properly"
This is 10000000% true, I NEVER recommend buying aftermarket wheels they are not made to spec for YOUR car, they are made to spec for universal use.