My stereo upgrade project (9th gen sedan)

[BiminiRoad]

I bought my '13 Accord sport a week ago today (still on my first tank of gas). I waited over a month to get the vehicle I wanted (MSM color w/ 6MT tranny). In that time, I began amassing the gear I would need for my sonic enjoyment. Music is really an important factor in vehicles I own, even at my age.

I have upgraded factory stereos several times before, so I had a good idea of what I wanted to accomplish and where I was going to draw the line. To be sure, there is a lot of inspiration to be found in these and other forums (@keep_hope_alive you are my hero).

I know I'm going to make mistakes along the way, but I'm going to take my time and try not to botch this by rushing it. My goal is this: to create a good sounding front stage and solid bass while keeping the integration of the audio system in the vehicle. This means that I'll be keeping the factory head unit. I'll also be keeping the factory speaker location for the mids in the front doors, but will be replacing the garnish piece of the doors by the A-pillars with the ones from the EX for the tweeters. I do plan to disable the ANC module during this install.

The Front Speakers
I had intended to use Image Dynamics CTX65CS 6.5 components up front, but they wouldn't fit so I sent them back. They wouldn't clear the window, even with a 3/4" spacer (picked up off Ebay). Another spacer would have been necessary but then I would have had to modify the door panel so that it would seat. The vendor I used, WoofersEtc.com recommended a comparable replacement that I will hopefully install next weekend: the CDT Audio CL 61A-25PRO. This will include dynamatting the front doors.

The Sub
I am using an Image Dynamics IDQ10V3.D2 10" DVC speaker (2 ohm voice coils wired in series for a 4 ohm load) from WoofersEtc in a sealed box with .75 cu ft of volume. I used a prefab box from parts-express.com (Goldwood TR10S) with some wood added to reduce the air volume from .85 to .75 cu ft. If I don't like the box I'll replace it later, but I like the flexibility to move it.

The Amp
I chose the Rockford Fosgate Punch P400.4 from SonicElectronix. I will run this in mixed mode, which should provide decent power to the fronts and sub: 72W X 2 @ 4 ohms & 242W X 1 @ 4 ohms, respectively (according to the amp's "birth certificate"). I also picked up an Audio Control LC2i line converter from Crutchfield to take the speaker-level signal to a line-level signal and preserve bass. Lastly, I picked up a Scoche 4 ga. amp installation kit off Amazon and 80 amp fuse.

The Plan
My plan is to run wires this weekend and install the amp and possibly the sub. I'll run the power wires on the driver side and the signal wires on the passenger side. I will be running power through the firewall to reach the battery. I also plan to run a remote wire for the amp despite the LC2i's built in (GTO) trigger feature. Next weekend, I hope to install the dynamat and front speakers. This could easily take longer, but that's okay.

[BiminiRoad]

I am planning to mount the amp and LOC to a piece of plywood under the deck. Power wire running shouldn't be a problem, until the firewall.

Driver's side trunk:


Driver's side rear door sill:


Driver's side front door sill: (note - remove the trim around the lock cylinder to reveal a retaining screw)


I spent some time studying the firewall and existing openings. Not a lot of space to work and if I use the grommet that came with the amp installation kit, I would need to drill a 3/4" hole.

[fizmixa]

subscribed. interested to see how this turns out for you. thanks for taking pics along the way.

[BiminiRoad]

Using the forum search function, I found this post: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...light=firewall by dhpark88. I'm going to give that a go.

[MGP999]

Might as well install the dynamat on the rear deck since you have it exposed. I am not sure if the Sport comes with a rear deck brake light but if so you will need to secure it to keep it from rattling due to the sub.

[on2]

Originally Posted by MGP999

Might as well install the dynamat on the rear deck since you have it exposed. I am not sure if the Sport comes with a rear deck brake light but if so you will need to secure it to keep it from rattling due to the sub.

I concur. The rear deck even with the ridges still rattles.

Originally Posted by BiminiRoad

The Front Speakers
I had intended to use Image Dynamics CTX65CS 6.5 components up front, but they wouldn't fit so I sent them back. They wouldn't clear the window, even with a 3/4" spacer (picked up off Ebay). Another spacer would have been necessary but then I would have had to modify the door panel so that it would seat. The vendor I used, WoofersEtc.com recommended a comparable replacement that I will hopefully install next weekend: the CDT Audio CL 61A-25PRO. This will include dynamatting the front doors.

Do you have the depth of the front door speakers that didn't fit and the ones that did fit for reference purposes?

[mrmondaynight]

Not the route i would've gone, but you picked out decent stuff.

[BiminiRoad]

@mpg99 & on2: I'll consider doing the extra dynamat while I'm at it.

I ended up getting the power wire through to the engine compartment, but I took off the LF wheel and partially the fender lining to get it done.

Access point from the engine bay:


From the fender:


Another shot with the wire in the engine bay:


I have the power wire and turn-on wires run to the trunk. Still need to connect the turn-on lead to the fuse box.

[BiminiRoad]

I attached the amp ground wire to the chassis in the trunk. For the turn-on wire, I ended up splicing it to the 12V power port in the console below the center pocket. I was thinking about getting a fuse tap but when I stopped by a local installer to get one, they didn't carry them because they usually tap into a switched 12V accessory such as the power port.

I also disconnected the ANC module while I was in the console. I had to remove it to disconnect it, then I reinstalled the unplugged module. I wrapped up today by reinstalling trim pieces, including the door sills and making sure everything was back in working order.

Tomorrow I'd like to get the amp mounting done. I also plan to tap into the rear speakers to get the signal to my LC2i. I want to then test the sub+amp+loc setup. If I have time, my get-ahead task is to run speaker wire near the doors.

ANC module:

[BiminiRoad]

Originally Posted by on2

Do you have the depth of the front door speakers that didn't fit and the ones that did fit for reference purposes?

2.75" top mount depth on those Image Dynamics CTX-6.5CS that I sent back.

[BiminiRoad]

Today I cut down a piece of 1/2" plywood to 12" x 18" and covered it with some left over grey headliner fabric. I also cut and bent 1" wide mounting straps from scrap sheet steel. Next I will dynamat the deck and install the amp rack. With the rack installed, the amp will be inverted and its connections will be facing the front of the vehicle.

[BiminiRoad]

I have the amp and sub installed now.

I did the 9V battery test on the rear speakers to determine polarity when supplying the signal to the LC2i. On the right speaker, blue is positive; on the left speaker, yellow is positive.

I'll play around with settings on the LC2i and amp during the week. I actually disconnected the remote on from the amp and have the LC2i remote out going to the amp turn-on. This seems to work well, as sometimes the radio plays when the key is not in accessory mode.

Here is a shot of the speaker connectors I made to tap into the rear speaker. I had to file down the sides of the spade connectors to fit into the factory plug:

View from the cabin:


View from the rear:


View showing the LR speaker and dynamatted deck:


View with everything buttoned up (front speaker wire is temporarily wedged above the amp rack):

[mrmondaynight]

Rear speakers trapping bass inside the trunk.

[BiminiRoad]

Mr Monday, I'll try to remove the rear speakers if it isn't too much of a PITA to see how that improves things. I'm going to get the front speakers replaced before I make a judgement though. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Tedmond]

nice build and equipment. From experience the IDMAX sounds very tight and accurate in a sealed box. But to get the full potential of that woofer, i would suggest you build a custom enclosure and port it through the arm rest.

this would prevent trunk rattles, not to mention the bass would be reflecting off the front window bringing the sound stage forward.