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post #1 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Acura BBK conversion questions

Hi All,

Been reading around on the forum and I don't specifically see a how-to listed with detailed parts list. I'm at 148,000 miles and getting close to needing front brake pad replacements...oh and the brakes on this car are pure garbage. I'm on my 4th set of brake rotors and prior to knowing about this option, thought I'd be replacing rotors every 30-40,000 miles for the rest of the life of this car. Maybe the Acura brakes are what I need. I live in a very mountainous area, so the brakes get a pretty routine workout and the stock brakes are NOT up to the task. They get too hot too fast and can't shed the heat like they need to. Soooo....parts list:

1) adapter here: https://fatfourcustoms.com/shop/brak...er-bracket-v1/

2) 2005+ Acura RL front calipers

3) 350Z front brake rotors

4) centering ring due to 350Z rotor larger hub size

5) caliper rebuild kit for Acura calipers

And that's it?

Will the existing brake line and banjo bolt work on the Acura calipers?

And why would the Acura TL brake rotor not work? Why is the 350Z rotor necessary? I get that it's 12.6", but also see mention that around 1mm at outside of brake pad won't contact the rotor. Is there a way to fix this?

Thanks!


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post #2 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 10:55 AM
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Have a closer look at several threads concerning this mod. OEM brake lines and banjo bolts will work, but you may want to use new ones - at least new copper washers are the must. The parts you've mentioned are all you need - this is what I used:

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post #3 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RobRac View Post
Have a closer look at several threads concerning this mod. OEM brake lines and banjo bolts will work, but you may want to use new ones - at least new copper washers are the must. The parts you've mentioned are all you need - this is what I used:
Many thanks! The search feature on the forum returns so many threads that are totally N/A, I got tired of syntaxing it to death to get the same threads over and over.

As far as rebuilding the calipers - new piston seals, etc., can the pistons be removed and the caliper serviced without separating the two halves?

Just ordered the FFC bracket from heeltoeauto.com - so I guess I'm doing this. Trying to get my ducks in a row beforehand.

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post #4 of 11 Old 04-08-2019, 05:47 AM
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You'd better use Google to search Driveaccord .

This should help you:
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-08-2019, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RobRac View Post
You'd better use Google to search Driveaccord .

This should help you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tOKFWYqxII
Thanks again! Looks straight forward enough.

And yeah - Dr. Google has been my friend the past few days. That and YouTube University.

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post #6 of 11 Old 04-08-2019, 07:14 PM
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-09-2019, 06:54 AM
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Wow. That conversion looks so easy. Total cost seems to be like close to $7-800? What are you guys paying for the front calipers?
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-09-2019, 07:32 AM
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Stock brakes are nothing special, but not total garbage. (Perhaps the sedan has smaller brakes than the coupe, not sure). No matte what size the rotors are or how many pistons in the caliper, if the brakes are not bedded correctly, they will not perform to their full potential.

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post #9 of 11 Old 04-10-2019, 07:23 AM
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My understanding from researching this before is that the master cylinder is not really capable of pushing those calipers to their potential. Is this not the case?

Also, wouldn't only doing the front really mess with the brake bias and possibly be inferior to the stock setup?

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post #10 of 11 Old 04-10-2019, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emeron View Post
Stock brakes are nothing special, but not total garbage. (Perhaps the sedan has smaller brakes than the coupe, not sure). No matte what size the rotors are or how many pistons in the caliper, if the brakes are not bedded correctly, they will not perform to their full potential.
Any brake pad/rotor combination in good condition capable of engaging the anti-lock braking system is pretty much working to their full potential. Bedding brake pads? Billions of drivers over the past century have never done that and have never had problems with their brakes not working to their "full potential".
You want to "bed" the brakes on your brand new car? Go right ahead, you take a risk of significantly reducing the life of the brakes. Yea, I'm not going to be out there slamming on my brakes repeatedly on my brand new car, ain't gonna happen.

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post #11 of 11 Old Today, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Any brake pad/rotor combination in good condition capable of engaging the anti-lock braking system is pretty much working to their full potential. Bedding brake pads? Billions of drivers over the past century have never done that and have never had problems with their brakes not working to their "full potential".
You want to "bed" the brakes on your brand new car? Go right ahead, you take a risk of significantly reducing the life of the brakes. Yea, I'm not going to be out there slamming on my brakes repeatedly on my brand new car, ain't gonna happen.
I am a little curious about the proportioning. Somehow I think that EBD will even things out.

My problem is not with a panic stop. Yes the ABS will engage, so yes, I have no concern that the braking system is at full potential...for a panic stop IF the brakes aren't hot. The problem is that I live in a mountainous area. Going across Dante mountain for appointments (Google Maps the drive Abingdon, VA to Clintwood, VA), like I frequently get here lately is turning into a VERY unpleasant ordeal in the Accord. These puny, junky brakes can't tolerate the heat, even with gearing down into 4th and sometimes 3rd gear (speed limit is 55mph). Half way down the mountain, I start getting a lot of vibration and then the entire car is consumed by a loud roar coming from the front brakes. It's absolutely obnoxious and ridiculous. i just want larger brakes that are capable of dealing with the heat.

When I drive my 99 BMW 528i Wagon, I never even need to downshift the transmission to use engine braking and the brakes have no problem dealing with the heat. And that car is 20 years old and weights a bit more than the Accord.

Oh - i'm also on my 3rd set of (again warping) rotors on the front.

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