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1998 EX Keyless Entry Controller

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keyless
36K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  prf28 
#1 ·
I've had problems with my keyless entry system in an 98 EX for the last few years. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It mainly has problems when it's cold outside. I'd like to replace the receiver in the car, but can't find a part number to order. Does anyone have the PN for the receiver? Barring that, can I use the LX Keyless upgrade kit receiver?

Thanks,
Michael
 
#2 ·
This is probably redundant, but have you replaced the battery in the transmitter unit? Also, have you tried cleaining the contacts in the transmitter, its amazing what can get under that button. Might be worth taking a look before you drop $$$$ on a new kit...
 
#3 ·
The LX reciever will not work.

Take the remote apart, replace the batt, clean everything up (not with water!), and put it back together. See what happens...
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys,

I've already cleaned and replaced the battery. I always get a red LED light indication when I press a button on the remote. I had this problem again recently and based on comments from another forum, when the door lock didn't work, I remotely opened the trunk and then I unlocked the doors and it actually worked....very strange. I decided to start throwing money at the problem and ordered and installed the passenger side multiplex control unit. I had to re-program the unit for both of my key FOBs, but so far it has not malfunctioned .....but I'll have to give it some time.

--
Michael
 
#5 ·
This is exactly how mine has been. I'll have stretches where it works first try then bad spells where it takes a half dozen pushes give or take to get the doors unlocked. But the trunk trick always makes the doors work first try afterward. Do you know if your car was in an accident?

I heard that if power is ever lost in the FOB, it takes 6 attempts for the system to synch itself. Did it matter which key fob you used? I only have 1 so it's hard to tell if there is a short in mine.
 
#6 ·
DonutLimo,

I've replaced the passenger side multiplex controller and so far so good. It was usually worse when the weather is colder, so this winter should be a good test.

The car has never been in an accident and both Key FOB's had the same problem.

--
Michael
98 Honda Accord EX 4cylinder VTEC
 
#8 ·
No Luck

Well, I've now replaced all three multiplex computers and the problem still persists. :thumbsdow:dunno::thumbsdow


I replaced the right kick-panel one first, then the left kick-panel one. The last one was in the driver side door that includes all the windows switches. So far, I've found that when it doesn't work, I can unlock the trunk with the remote, and then the doors will unlock. VERY VERY STRANGE. It's got to be a sensor in the the door.

--
Michael
 
#9 ·
So far, I've found that when it doesn't work, I can unlock the trunk with the remote, and then the doors will unlock. VERY VERY STRANGE. It's got to be a sensor in the the door.
That blows. I can even push the trunk button less than the 1.1 seconds or whatever *NOT enough to get the trunk to release* but have it somehow make the doors unlock the next try. You did say that both remotes you have act the same?
 
#11 ·
Your call but if the actuator on that side were intermittent the lights should flash and the passenger side would work after the second click right?

If you stand next to the car and slowly push the unlock 6 times does it work? If it does, there could be a short in your transmitters.

Tonight i'll get out my manual and see if there are any other suspicious components worth looking at. In the meantime I'm going to take apart my transmitter. Last time I soldered a crack in the battery clip to board and it worked great for like a month. It was probably a coincidence but worth another try.
 
#12 ·
I thought I had posted this bit of info, but looking back I see I didn't...

A few weeks back, I had a weird problem that hasn't appeared before. I went out in the morning to crank the car, the doors wouldn't unlock with the transmitter, so I unlocked the door with the key...soon after the EX security alarm went off and I couldn't get it stopped. Cranking the car didn't help , I had to get back out of the car, and lock the doors with the key to silence the alarm. Wow is that horn loud.

So, what in the door senses when the key is turned to disable the built-in alarm? May be a big clue as to what is going on. If that sensor is bad......

I do appreciate all the help.

--
Michael
 
#13 ·
I have the same problem like you have right now. I bought the car 3 years ago and the problem still there. I can not lock the car or unlock the with the remote. I can power lock to lock the passenger side but not the driver side. If I manually lock the driver side first, I can use the remote to lock the passenger side. Recently, the immobilizer system can not detect my keys. I think the problem is Anti-security system that cause the immobilizer system not to detect my keys. If you can solve the problem, please let me know so I can fix my car.
 
#15 ·
Wow, there's a lot more to this multiplex than I thought. It actually has a CPU, it communicates digitally to save bundles of wire, controls all kinds of things from the oil pressure indicator to beeps and chimes, goes to sleep and wakes up, and has diagnostic functions. There's at least 20 pages worth and I need to read more before suggesting anything.

Couple thoguhts: Either door being unlocked with the key will disarm the security system according to the manual. Like you said, it didn't work that way and I'm pretty sure i have tried the passenger side and set the alarm off too. From what I understand the only way to shut off the alarm in this case is to use the remote. However, the 'panic' feature is supposed to be cancelled with either the remote or the key in ignintion switched to position (II). So there is a difference between panic function and the alarm system. Also, panic runs for 30sec and alarm runs for 2mins before self cancelling. Another thing that came to mind is the wake up and sleep function- Ever noticed that you can operate things normally for a short while once you get it to respond? After 10 seconds of inactivity the system goes back to low power. I think the trunk operates a little differently than the rest of the system and maybe that is what helps to bring everything else back to life.

Anyway this calls for more reading and I'll be out of town this weekend so maybe next week I'll have time to try some of the troubleshooting procedures in the manual.
 
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